56Roadmaster

This was some of my piont which missed the mark a few months ago when I talked about do gooders, If a guy saves the car(s) and only has a little money at a time to put into it why shouldn't he be able to keep it in his yard even if it isn't so pretty at first.and We still say want to interst the younger crowd so if they can afford a cheap initial start isn't it better than desruction? not all have garages, They might learn something too. So what do you do battle the neighbors or send it down the road to destruction?

Thanks for the info, still wondering what was horsepower with that stuff average. I have a grudge with a childhood friend who has a Ply. Duster with a stout 340. Always bragging this and that since we were kids I 'm pretty good with engines and when I finish this 56 It sure would be fun to shut down that loud mouth...imagine his surprise getting beat by a big old lumbering Roadmaster ha!

Hi Doc,<BR> Have done alot of this wood work on things from 1930's Senior Packards and Chrysler Imperials to plymouths to 1929 Larrabee truck. <BR> The main thing to remember is your memory is not good. Make drawings carefully as well as measurements. With today's digital hype taking pictures is easy too.<BR> DON'T I repeat DON'T throw out any piece of wood no matter how bad it looks because careful examination of that part will reveal saw cut edges and where mortises may have been.<BR> Use a good wood glue such as Elmers carpenter glue. Ash is the wood of choice because it generally resists warping and twisting. It should be dried at least 6 months from time of felling.<BR> If you have nails holding your skins on a neat tool can be made by grinding a slot in a flat blade screw driver and use it to get between the metal and wood to loosen nail.<BR> Use cobblers nails which have serated shaft and don't work out over the years as the wood 'breaths'<BR> It's not really hard just paitient work and remember these joints were not those of a Hitchcock furniture. They were functional and turned out by the hundreds. <BR> Hope that helps feel free to e-mail.

Hi Will,<BR> you are on the right track here is some additional thoughts.<BR> replace or over haul the wheel cylinders and master cylinder.<BR> inspect brake linings for cracking evidence of oil/brake fluid contamination.I have had old lining break on me and it causes severe swerving on braking.<BR> Update the fuel pump diaphram with new material for today's fuel most guys offer services around $65.<BR> A good tune up wires too.<BR> A good tranny service/adjust if you have dyna-flow if manual consider checking clutch and throw out bearing.<BR> Thoroughly check the wiring especially headlight switch. No execuses when things short out if you don't. If the wiring insulation cracks easy REPLACE it.<BR> Belts hoses and heater core<BR>Check vacuum lines to wiper and check wiper motor stiff grease will get you in rainstorm.<BR> Springs are ok unless you have huge pits like bigger than 1/8"<BR> Have a helper rock steering wheel while you look for play in linkage if under 100K and well grease all its life they should be ok. It doesn't hurt to check the steering box mounts at the frame for cracks.<BR> Clean thoroughly and regrease the front wheel bearings and replace the grease seals<BR> You may be surprised at how many parts are still available at NAPA if you have a guy who knows how to use books.<BR> Pheww long winded.........hope that helps

Hey fellas,<BR> I have recently aquired a complete 56 Buick parts book. In between group 9 and 10 I found a section called "Buick High Power Equipment" they list a package which has different cam appears to be a solid lifter type, 10:1 pistons and exhaust heat block off.<BR> piston# 1392626, cam# 1172772, lifter# 1171075, pushrod# 1171076, rocker assy's# 1171078 and 1171079 or the cam kit minus pistons #1392654<BR> Wonder if anyone has this stuff or has ever seen it and what the horsepower was with this stuff (stock 4bbl 322 was 255HP).

You have half the battle done by what appears to be warm indoor working conditions. You are also gaining such valuable metal working skills and you will know more than the average bear about cars in general. This really what REAL RESTORATION is about keep going looks like you are off to good start!

Hi,<BR> For starters the voltage regulator is inside the alternator and thus each time you replace it you also change the alternator. You should check the battery voltage when car is running with a volt meter 13.5-14.5 volts is normal. This is a quick check to see if the charging system is ok. Next with the car off and all lights of including underhood work light pull a battery terminal off and connect a test lamp between cable and battery if the light comes on (even very dim) you have a short or accessory that is not shutting down.you can one at a time pull fuses to see what circuit it is on(light out). It also could be a short in one the wires going to the starter often due to oil dripping on them from valve covers. Also check for wires lying on exhaust manifolds which may be shorting due to burning. One more thing if you get your alternators from those cheap parts stores they are often just cleaned up old units which may or may not have been tested, I know because I have run a couple junkyards and used to sell cores to the remanufacturers so it is possible to get 3 junks in a row. Now you know why they are such a good deal! Electrical faults are not always easy but you should go about it systematically.

Hi, I agree<BR> Rings in your low cylinder, as to backyard rebuild, with the price of parts today (speaking from experienece) you are better off doing a complete correct rebuild. Buick parts are more expensive than the SB Chevy. If you are planning to keep the car a while the 1800-2500 you spend is worth it. <BR> think about this you will probably spend up 800 for a junker and unless you can drive it first you are asking for trouble, If you do back yard rebuild you will spend 600-1200 and if the crank is not round and the bores tapered and out of round you are wasting you money because in 10000 miles you'll be back to where you started. and you could replace the car but then you've got to register, inspect and other problems and a decent driver is going to cost.<BR> Finally if you do it right and keep up regular maintenance you will be spending less on the car per year to keep the engine going not mention you could feel confident in taking that out of state trip or the occasional stop light race.<BR> so save your money PAY STRICT ATTENTION to the ENGINE TOLERANCES and do it right once. <BR> PS check out your machinist get references ask guys who have 30K plus miles on engines do them, pick carefully. <BR> My take.

Hi Bill, again<BR> I called these guys, CARS INC, New Jersey, they were very helpful and pleasant to deal with. I would definetly recommend them. Scott

Hi Bill,<BR> Thank you DUDE!!!! you have no idea how long I have been hunting for a source for 56 Kelsey-Hayes P/Brakes overhaul kit. and their prices are decent This is really really COOOOOOL!!!!!!!<BR> Plus they have those elusive master parts books...Wow!!!!!!!!!!! EVERY ONE SHOULD CHECK THIS OUT and you can print an instant catalog WOW!!

Hi,<BR> Assumming that this fixed the problem,it wouldn't hurt to run some gas dryer of your favorite brand for a couple of tanks, Also it wouldn't hurt to put a little of same into carb through bowl vents.

Not too bad:<BR> You will find taking of the tranny dust cover helpful. Also your starter may have a support brace on it tucked behind it which takes a little paitience, to get around manifold. Also note how your wires go on the soleniod,nuts are 11/32 (small ones). You might have to take them off first as there is not always enough slack in wire harness to drop starter first. You may find it helpful to take off wheel on that side and gain some access through wheel well. If you find it necessary to take off exhaust warm bolts are less likely to snap.

Other pump 6857 international 4cyl. 152 cubic inch, 1960-69.

Hi your# AC 153-7338 crosses to KEM part #530 which is for '41-'51 Series 60-70-90 Buick.

Hi Pontiac numbers on pass side cylinder bank in front just below head near water pump. find date code on head under rocker assumin head is original all GM use letter for month ie a=Jan, b=Feb etc,then numbers day of month,finally last digit of year. so A119 would be Jan 11th 1979, be careful this could also mean 1969 or 1959 though doubtful you have '59. then look in you favorite Chilton or Motors manual they have codes. In gen Pont codes Y- auto, W-standard X-either gen high po.

why don't you pick up something 81-87 rear wheel drive, like the Regal, with a small v-8 and O/D or with the 3.8v-6 these are tried and proven cars, and parts still readily availible, in good tune you can get 22-23 mpg or better. They are relatively low maintenance cars, and they are Easy to work on plus the parts interchange easily with older/other GM rwds....thats my take!

hi, get a hold of the 56 Buick service manual it explains this proceedure, If you want I can E-mail the proceedure its a little lengthy.

hello, have done alot of painting used both types, turbine air is nice saves alot of material but... does not produce as fine atomization of paint and so i notice not as fine a finish,especially with metallics, although good for priming saves material. Aslo turbine requires a little slower pace.

Hi here is some additional checks, is your exhaust mainfold heat stove valve opening, if its not you are putting excessive heat into the intake which may cause percolation,(hot flooding)Is the gap on your pionts absolutely in spec? Is the timing in spec,Since you checked compression that 38# cylinder could have a bad valve or seat (if intake) you could have trouble. Is the start switch adjusted correctly? Check your Buick shop manual for adjustment,if you don't have one E-mail me and I'll foreward the proceedure but tell me if you have Carter or Stromberg. hope this helps.

Hi, no you probably will not gain much at all you need to look at the cam spec and see where the torque band is greatest then go about matching every thing else. Plus the dynaflow has a variable pitch torque converter which is designed to give even acceleration without wheel spin, you may want to consider going to a LOWER torque range cam because you are not able to turn the engine RPM enough to make the one you have effective. Scott

Hi Phil, I have an 83 Regal that I put a '69 430 and 425 tranny from a Riv into. I put all the emission stuff on. You have some work cut out but you are ahead of the game. 1) the carb, and other computer devices off the olds engine will go on to and run the 455 correctly the carb is basically bolt on though you might want to change to an electric choke. 2) the later 455 is about 8:1 compression and has EGR already so your NOX emission will stay in spec, (when you go above 9.5:1 the combustion temps go up and NOX goes way up). You may have clearance your heater A/C box to clear the pass side valve cover. Also if mid sump oil pan must change to rear, I also recommed finding a 64-67 A-body trans X-member to allow for dual exhaust and you'll need to clearance the right side of frame, you may be able to bolt in motor mounts but probably will need to fabricate some. In the long run you'll have some fun with the low end torque, but you will suffer in fuel. I have done a couple neat (no hacker) installations it is alot of work. If you'd like some details E-mail me _scott.

Hi looking for 2dr hard top doors for 56 Roadmaster and floor pans send list of 56 parts E-mail wilebill@att.net

hi, look around at some same size Olds and Pontiacs they'll fit and one of them may have had posi units, and talk to you favorite older junkyard guy chances are he will be able to tell you what else fits or see a Hollander Interchange book.

hi, better check carefully I'm nearly 100% positive your heads have valve guides cast in to them which means you can do two things get a set of valves with oversize stems and have the guides reamed to accept the new valves (this is the easier route) or you can try to find after market guides and have the heads machined to accept them then they are pressed in. your machinist may have done this(reaming),but you may have a hard time finding aftermarket guides vs. valves with oversize stems. I recently redid my 430 and most parts were all still available at NAPA.(If you get a jobber who is willing to look through books vs. his computer) Also try some of the suppliers in Buick section of Hemmings. One more note a compentant machine shop should be able to fit the valves for you and get guides if they are available and this is a job better to pay them to do.

Hi, Century fits second in line up it is designated 60 series,the Special was lowest and is 40 series it was the only one available with standard all other series had dynaflow. above century is Super 50 series and top of line was Roadmaster 70 series. all models had 322 V-8,Century had following models: 63 4dr sedan,66C 2dr convertible, 66R 2dr Riviera, 69 4dr estate wagon.Century and super have wider chrome on the taillights as viewed fom side they have 122" wheelbase, and are 205.1" over all at bumpers they sit a little lower at 60.5" and are narrower at 76" Windshield trim is less pronounced than Roadmaster which shares its with Cadillac. You can find the data plate under the hood on the passenger side of top of cowl, gives year model etc, This info comes from 1956 factory shop manual good luck with your search!