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There is a NOS Stromberg UU2 on ebay. Item #180082860098

John, I am embarrassed to say that none of the electrical stuff is working right now. I am still trying to figure out the wiring but have been side tracked lately because of doing a ring and valve job on my Stutz. I will try to make some time in the next couple of days to remove the bulb from one of the headlights and see if I can read anything on the bulb itself. I will also take a photo of the bulb and socket and post it here. I have no idea where to get replacement bulbs but maybe someone reading the thread will know. Steve

John, According to the Milburn owners manual, The head and inside lights are 40 volt 15 watt G-10 Mazda bulbs. The tail light is 40 volt 4 candle power Carbon bulbs. All bulbs on the Milburn have the "Ediswan" base. The Rauch & Lang may be similar. I hope this helps. Steve

Rusty, Thank you for the lead. I have sent them an email and we will see what they have to say. Although I started this by quoting the Stutz Handbook, I am not asking just about Stutz. I have no problem finding and using the correct oil for it. I am looking for a consistent (and correct) conversion method that works for all Saybolt numbers. Does such an algorithm exist? Steve

The owners manual for the 1926 Stutz calls for the following engine oil: Viscosity at 100 F warm weather 515 Saybolt cold weather 375 Saybolt Viscosity at 212 F warm weather 63 Saybolt cold weather 57 Saybolt I tried using conversion charts to figure the SAE oil weight but some tables are in SSU and some are in SSF thus requiring a multi-step conversion. Exactly what weight oils do these refer to? I know many of you want to be helpful, but please, no guesses. I am looking for a consistent (and correct) conversion method that works for all Saybolt numbers. Thanks for any help you can provide. Steve

The correct 1926/1927 Series AA wheel insert is the same as the one on the bumper (see photo). I don't know if 1928 is the same or not but doubt that it is the same. Steve

Ed, Lots of Stutz people look at this forum. Why don't you post information about the car and the price right here on the forum. It's free and maybe you will find a buyer here. Steve

Not to burst any balloons, but there were people writing viruses in the early 70's. They just weren't as easy to spread as they are now with the Internet.

I still need a Sangamo charge meter for my 1921 Milburn, which is pictured earlier in this thread, and a locking on/off switch. I have attached a picture here of the switch. Thanks. Steve

I doubt that there is any real (as opposed to one of the made-up ones that are out there) Bearcat in any condition that could had for anywhere near as little as $175,000. But that's just my opinion, I could be wrong. Steve

John, Thank you for the suggestions. I know that my Milburn is either a 1920 or 1921 depending on whether you use the Milburn registry list (1921) or Galen Handy's list (1920) based on the serial numbers. I'm just trying to figure out which one is correct so I don't perpetuate the incorrect information provided by a long deceased previous owner. Steve

In the Antique Electric Vehicles Newsletter (#19 - September 2006), Galen Handy has provided a very interesting and very plausible explanation of the Milburn serial numbers. My only question about the list are the years that are assigned to the various vehicles. Are the years based on any particular documentation? I ask only because there is quite a divergence from the years shown in the Milburn registry and I am trying to figure out what year my Milburn was built. It was sold to me as a 1915 model, but based on serial numbers and features, it is obviously a later model. Thank you. Steve Pugh

Does anyone know who owns the restored Helms Bakery Truck that was at the Hershey Show this year and how I can get in touch with him? Thanks. Steve

Lisa, The gear shift nob that you describe is not original. The marble ones can be bought on ebay almost any time. The correct original gear shift nob is a black plastic-like nob. I have attached a picture so you can see what an original nob looks like. It's not a great photo, so if you need a better one I will try to get it for you over the weekend. Where are you located? Do you have photos of you car? I hope this helps. Steve

Dale Anderson advised me that it was scrapped many years ago. Thank you for your help. Steve

Does anyone know what became of the 1915 Kissel that Anita King drove cross country in 1915? Thank you.

I've had good experiences with Passport several times and also with Thomas Sunday who has a web site at http://www.sundayautotransport.com/ Good Luck Steve

John, I am only familiar with serial numbers on AA's and BB's. I don't know what the PS and PC that you refer to are for. If you will be at Hershey next week, there will be lots of knowledgable people at the Stutz dinner on Thursday and the Stutz Club meeting on Friday. You will get a lot of valuable information from being a member of the Stutz Club, if you aren't already a member. Steve

John, CY03Y represents Stutz serial number 40030. CY01N is not an authentic Stutz FEDCO number because "N" is not part of the code. Steve

John, On my Milburn they run at 42 volts. There are two sets of batteries wired in series to 42 volts, one in the front and one in the back. The voltages of the two sets are combined by the controller with or without a resistor, either in series or in parallel to achieve the multiple forward speeds. The lights run off of one of the sets of batteries. This is how it was explained to me as I can't read a wiring diagram. I will try to find more information and a source and post it if successful. Steve

Thank you for the heads up on this. What condition was the other one you mentioned? Steve

1902 Columbia Electric Victoria MK XXXI with HAYBRID option sent to me by Galen Handy.

Post or email some photos showing the the mascot. Be sure to include shots of the back showing the neck and the bottom. Steve

Randy, After a little research, I found that the Albert Anderson Manufacturing Company still exists. They are now Anderson Power Products in Sterling Massachusetts. I sent them some emails and found that while they don't make the same kind of Type N connector as we need for our cars, they do make a Type N connector for modern electric cars. I know that you were going to make your own if you couldn't find one. The specs say it is a two pole connector just as the original was. Maybe the internals are the same so that you can use them instead of having to make the entire thing from scratch(?). Steve

Randy, Is this like the female plug on your Chicago Electric? Steve