Bhigdog
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Posts posted by Bhigdog
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7 minutes ago, Elpad said:
Did you made your own pivot shoulder bolts yourself or did you have someone make them? The diagram Willie (Old Tank) provided calls for a 3/8-24 X 1.25 in length if you use the washers and nut but again the broken bolt had the wave washer but there is no lock washer or nut, not even on the other side. Looks like the rear rail inner bracket is threaded and not a smooth hole that accomodates a bolt and nut configuration. I can feel the tip of the threaded bolt on the passenger (unbroken) bolt. Willie said that there could be an early and later version of this configuration. I do not want to remove the good bolt because I don't know if a misalignment of the top could occur. I think I will drill out the broken piece and then go from there. Again thanks for the info and let me know who made these shoulder bolts for you.
Al
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10 hours ago, Smartin said:
McMaster Carr is a good place to look for those fasteners if you want to dig for yourself.
Nope. Pretty much a specialty fastener. Not too hard to dupicate though. What was once made by the hand of man can again be made by the hand of man......bob
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27 minutes ago, BobinVirginia said:
One of the best lathe guy’s I’ve ever met was exactly the same. He’d walk away from his machine with any radio noise. I understand that and respect it completely
One of the worst things is being forced to listen to music you hate. I have a friend, Joe. Outstanding die maker, that got a job in a shop that played an endless loop of show tunes. He finally had to quit. Couldn't get them out of his head. Sometimes when our group is sitting around a camp fire, half in the bag, someone will start belting out Ethyl Mermon doing "There's no business like show business" as a joke at Joe's expense. Just a few bars is all it takes...........Bob
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When i,m working, especially if i,m concentrating on a problem or delicate operation, i like the delicious sound of silence.
When i listen to music i listen without distraction. When i work i work witout distraction.
Trying to do both lessens both.....bob
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Don't have a dog in this fight but personally I'm a lot more inclined to help a person who has already exhausted his options by consulting his shop manual and done as much trouble shooting as he is capable of.............Just sayin...........Bob
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7 hours ago, EmTee said:
I'll throw @Bhigdog under the bus here!
I think he also has a '55 Century soft-top as well, so maybe he can identify the exact bolt that you need. I'll go further and say that he also has the wherewithal to fabricate a replacement if he has the opportunity and time to spend. Maybe you can PM him and at least get the details on what the bolt needs to look like, assuming his car is readily accessible.
Sorry, Bob - feel free to tell me to go and "mind my own business"!
-Tim
I do still have my 66C. My top was totally rusted and falling apart and I made quite a few of the fasteners and bolts. The chromed ones I used stainless steel and polished them. I also had to make the shoulder bolts you broke. Unless you can find the ones that fell off you will also need a wave washer and an internal tooth 3/8 lock washer, available from McMaster. Also a low profile 3/8-24 nut, easy enough to make. Let me know if I can help.............Bob
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1 hour ago, wayne sheldon said:
The shop IS the pot of gold!
(Know what you have.)
BING BING BING.....We have a winner.......bob
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I don't get it. I ran right up behind the shop and looked everywhere. No pot-O-gold. .............Bob
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Chrome rings are very hard and and wear resistant. Cast iron seats far easier, works very well and lasts a long time. An awful lot can be learned by consulting some ring manufacturers web sites....... Just sayin............Bob
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Because you want the rings to wear (seat) to conform to your worn bore...........
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It sounds like you are intending to fix the engine rather than rebuild it to oem specs. Big difference.
If that,s the case follow the shop manual,s directions and clearances which are tilted towards repair to a useable condition. You likely would be advised to have your heads done by an outside engine shop. As for the rest you likely can get away with a cylinder ridge cutting and light scuffing with new non chrome rings. Measure the crank and bearing clearances. If they are in spec and look good visually they likely can be used. Visually check and measure every thing carefully and reuse what is in spec.
What i described has been done many many thousands of times by the corner gas stations of old, often in a couple of days with the engine in the car.
Of course some worked out better than others but a "ring and valve job" got untold cars back on the road and got the old man to work and back......bob
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At least you,re looking down at it rather than looking up....bob
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I nosed around a bit on garage journal but nothing yet......bob
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It works but someone,s been mucking about inside. Wire nuts and electrical tape, that sort of thing......bob
2 minutes ago, Bloo said:I used to have some 1940s Allen test gear and regret selling it. They were an outfit who made generator test sets, scopes, distributor machines, etc., a competitor to Sun. In the 90s their equipment was still pretty common.
My 1942 speed way, built by the franklin transformer co, was also built in minneapolis. I found a set of 21 franklin factory photos the local historical society has of chargers being bulit. Kind of neat. I wonder if any of the women workers shown actually worked on mine.
As far as allen goes i haven,t found anything yet.....bob
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Just picked up this Allen T240W battery charger. I haven't been able to find anything at all about it, or for the Allen Electric Co other than they were in Minneapolis. I'm guessing the charger is from the 1960's.
Any kind of paper work would be appreciated. A schematic, I'm thinking is too much to hope for............Bob
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Meadowbrook was a way first class operation. Great competitor's luncheon, afterglow party and a beautiful venue. St.John's was still good but was noticeably a notch down scale............. And now down town Detroit.......................Bob
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So we're still flogging the Keller dead horse are we?
Since I've recently been quoted I'll go ahead and give the poor thing a couple of more lashes.
From what I read the Keller never made it into actual production and the few "produced" were mostly assembled from off the shelf or cannibalized parts. In other words.........not even a production car.
So while I can respect someone's desire from a sentimental view point it's hard to see the car as having any kind of significance other than as a very minor foot note to automobile history.
This emperor has no clothes............Bob
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Maybe 20 years ago Milwaukee power tools were excellent. Not so sure anymore. I recently bought 5 almost new looking Milwaukee sawzalls that were Lowe's non working returns, $50 for the lot. I had them all working fine in 2 hours time. The brushes have spade connectors and they simply fell off from the vibration. Other than that particular crappy engineering they looked pretty good inside........Bob
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1 hour ago, TAKerry said:
I just hate to wash and wax. As for my body, well thats a whole 'nother story!
I'm with you on the wash and wax. As for my body, at age 84 I fix what I can and to the rest just say "whatever"...............Bob
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16 hours ago, TAKerry said:
Ed, although my car is nice and shiny, and the one I am working on will be nice and shiny I too abhor polishing, waxing and cleaning cars!! In my younger days I would spend more time shining than driving. Now I could care less. I have been to several shows without as much as washing my car first. It was a good thing that the first part of Hershey was a washout, gave me a good excuse to have a dirty car, LOL. I try to get my son to keep them clean. I have a nearing antique harley (24 yrs old) that I call my driver bike. I have been all over parts of the country with it. Runs like a top but is plane ugly by todays standards. It has a carb and a 5 speed, most guys riding a new harley probably dont know this kind of thing exists! I was riding with a couple of people with new, bright and shiny bikes, one of them asked when I was going to wash mine. My answer was the next time I get caught in the rain!
To each his own i guess, but at some point charming patina devolves into neglect, dirt, and grime. Hoping you guys take care of your own body better than you take care of your car's...bob
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10 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
It is probably worth noting that the Packard I posted above with invoices was going to Pebble Beach. The restoration was expressly commissioned with a Pebble BoS in mind. I looked at a few of the details on one of the invoices and it was something like, "wet sand and polish the back of the hood vent doors." So while the numbers are truly astronomical, they are also far beyond what is actually required to be considered a "restoration," even to a relatively high standard. There are plenty of 100-point CCCA Classics running around that would get laughed off the show field at Pebble. It's just not the same world.
So, in other words, pebble beach, is not really a car show but is rather a bank roll and ego show.
I think the award shouldn,t be called the Best of Show but rather Biggest of Show.
Any suggestions for a suitable design for the trophy?....bob
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I did that swap in my 1939 and had the same problem. The problem is the fork itself has the wrong bend for the 235 block. I simply heated the fork shaft to red and put a tighter bend in it. It doesn't take too much additional bend and is a bit of trial and error but it is the fix. I was worried about doing it but it's been over 20 years now with no problems...........Bob
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3 hours ago, ABear said:
For those that don't, can't or are just ignoring seeing the problem..
Unless you are going to put this in a open frame with no body on, you will typically have to change the angle of the engine.. That is what the adjustable spreader is for.
In some cases small angle, in some cases to clear everything in the engine bay a drastic angle of attack will be needed.
So, number one arrow, you drop the rear of the engine.
That leads to the front of engine moving up (number 2 arrow), moving up also means center of gravity has moved towards the rear of the engine (number 7 arrow). This means you now have less weight on the front strap which in turn reduces the friction at the top of the front strap, that leads to number 6 arrow in red circle wanting to slip off the head. Number 5 arrow in red circle is another problem waiting to happen, when more weight shifts to the back strap, the strap will easily slide right off the end of the starter.. I suspect even though rear strap will have more weight and hence a bit more friction, the jolt in strap dropping off the starter lead to rear strap also moving forward (arrow number 3).. If you have a finger, hand arm or any other body part between the engine and engine bay or even the floor, good chance you might not have that body part attached to long..
Paralysis by analysis.
By the time all the hand wringing, harrumphing, and doom saying is said and done the engine will have been safely nestled in it,s motor mounts and the job washed down with a nice cold beer...bob
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I think he also has a '55 Century soft-top as well, so maybe he can identify the exact bolt that you need. I'll go further and say that he also has the wherewithal to fabricate a replacement if he has the opportunity and time to spend. Maybe you can PM him and at least get the details on what the bolt needs to look like, assuming his car is readily accessible.
My new to me 1955 Model 66C
in Me and My Buick
Posted · Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
First. I made them. Second. I can,t say for sure but i beleive the shoulder bolt threads into the rail but the bolt threads are long enough to allow for a low profile nut and lock washer. That would prevent the shoulder bolt from backing out. If you can provide the bolt and broken off piece or a well dimensioned drawing i could make them for you.
the parts book calls for a lock washer and nut. I personaly would be comfortable with no lock nut but using lock tite and monotoring the bolt for backing out over time. .....bob