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Posts posted by stude8

  1. More photos of steering column cluster restoration in a 1928 Studebaker Commander. Note the steering column assy must be detached from instrument panel to be lowered enough to remove and insert the cluster shaft assy tubes that extend out through the steering gear box in engine compartment.

    The common problem is all the 80 year old Zinc diecast parts are crumbling from age self destruction. All the brass and bronze replacement parts are reproduction castings. I don't know if any one reproduces Pierce parts like these.

    Stude8<!-- google_ad_section_end -->










  2. The Erskine cars are pretty rare as well as their literature. I have what I believe is a 1931 brochure that I scanned and attach to this response. Unfortunately the tail light is only illustrated on the full side view of the entire car so it is not very helpful. I think the tail light is similar to other period Studebakers except the upper "Stop light" lens has the word Erskine molded in the red glass, a tough item to locate at this age.

    I also attached 3 photos of 1930 Studebakers, the two Victorias are President 8 cyl models and the other view is a 1930 Commander 8 model. The Presidents have the large Red "Stop" glass lens on top and the bullet shaped round Red "Tail Light" lens at bottom. The Commander has different shaped lower "Tail Light" lens. These images should give you the style tail lights used on Studebaker products at that time. All of these tail lights have a downward facing clear lens that sheds light on the cars license plate.




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    Just a suggestion to check the mounting flange of your UU2 for a model number like FE or 80-90 (1931) etc. The UU2 came in several venturi sizes for other Studebaker models and non-Studebaker version for cars like Franklin and Hupmobile. If your carb on the 1930 FE was substituted with one from a smaller displacement engine like Commander that was 250 CID it would run lean on the big 337 CID President. I attached pages of UU2 service data for reference.






  4. Is there not a clamp at the steering box end. Normally these are attached to a tube which goes all the way down the column with a clamp at the bottom. the button will come out along with the stator tube

    The Bifda description is correct, here are a few photos of how the center tube assy is removed. If it is a closed body model you may have to remove the steering column clamp under dash board and lower column as in photo to get adequate ceiling clearance to pull the tube and horn button assy all the way out. Once out the bakelite cap ring is disasssembled by removing the 3 screws from the bottom. This car is a 1928 Commander GB Big Six Victoria, too low a roof to pull the steering tubes without dropping the column between the front seats.




  5. What Dictator27 explains is just what I thought from your photos, I don't have an Erskine shop manual that would show how to access those bushings but getting into the timing chain case is what it is going to take. Possibly being all related to the accessory drive shaft it might just require pulling the timing chain and removing the accessory driven shaft and gear, then pressing out the worn bushing and getting it reproduced or reamed and sleeved to the correct diameter again.


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    When I removed the vibration damper assy from the crankshaft on my 1928 Studebaker Commander GB Big Six engine to service the water pump I found there was an "Oil Slinger" ring part #24508 on the crank shaft behind the cover plate and it was made from Zinc die cast metal which at this age was very deteriorated and crumbling from age.

    I removed it and dimensioned it to make a detail drawing for a local machinist to reproduce it in brass metal for durablility. The location of it is critical because if it falls apart the metal fragments would fall into the timing gear cavity and get into the engine oil. The attached photos show the ring made of brass (Inner and Outer side) then installed on the crank shaft and last after the cover plate is reinstalled over it.

    I don't know if your Erskine uses the same or similar "Oil Slinger" to throw the timing case oil rearward from the crank shaft passage to the outside and vibration damper assy but you might want to examine the crank shaft passage for what ever seal is used on it.





  7. post-31139-14313919295_thumb.jpg

    The correct engine color for 1929-31 Studebaker 8 cyl engines is Olive Green (color of spilled oil!) attached is a photo of a restored 1930 FE engine correctly painted.

    I bought a can 10 years ago from a Studebaker parts vendor ?? the label reads Studebaker Green Engine Paint, manufactured by Decatrend, Industry, CA 91746


  8. Chris Economaki a journalist regarded as the authoritative voice in motor sports for decades died Friday Sep 28th, he was 91.

    National Speed Sport News where Economaki worked as an editor for more than 60 years, announced his death Friday. It did not release a cause of death. Economaki was known as the "Dean of American Motorsports Journalism," and worked in TV for more than 40 years with stints at ABC, CBS and ESPN. He was part of ABC's first telecast from Daytona International Speedway in 1961. His love of motorsports blossomed as a child and he sold copies of National Speed Sport News as a teenager.

    We video taped Chris in 1998 speaking with Duke Nalon and Emil Andres at the Harry A. Miller Meet in Milwaukee, WI as they discussed great times in Indianapolis racing years past. Another end of an era.


  9. It is certain your original oil pump body is cracked and losing pressure as a result, attached is the article from Antique Studebaker Review first published in 1985 and rerun in the latest issue. You will have to locate a replacement pump body preferrably made from brass or aluminum to replace the defective one. Years ago Lionel Stone reproduced them in brass but they are no longer available to my knowledge, a local machine shop should be able to reproduce one from the dimensions of

    the one in your engine. Good luck, Stude8



  10. My 1928 Commander uses Champion W-18 (7/8" threads) and I find them listed on E-Bay and Amazon both right now. What type are in your 1924 now? Here is a web site to check for spark plug interchange data Alternative spark plugs for CHAMP W18.

    With Labor Day weekend there should be an auto related flea market open near where ever you are located and you could browse the local vendors for old stock items.


  11. Without taking another guys word for it about whether a block can be bored to a larger diameter piston size I would be more accurate in measuring cylinder wall thickness, casting patterns can shift in pouring a block and actual wall thickness can vary one block to the next.

    A friend of mine is building a Studebaker V8 engine for a Bonneville Salt flat race car and it is being over size bored to the limit. To ensure it can take the over bore we borrowed an ultra sonic electronic wall thickness measuring device and measured all 8 cylinders at 45 degree intervals on the diameter and 1" depths from top to bottom of each cylinder bore. All the data was input to a computer program that drew illustrations of each level top to bottom and recorded each measurement point on a graff. The block passed the test with flying colors, it can be bored to the required diameter in all cylinders.

    This is how the pro's plan an engine enlargement with out gambling if it is possible to do without sleeving the cylinders.


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