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Posts posted by stude8

  1. lI need a windshield regulator handle for my 1929 Commander. Or perhaps a complete broken one that I can get recast in bronze.

    Also need is correct windshield wiper arms and blades, and one windshield wiper motor.

    regards Dave

    email at dpkroegs@aol.com

    Dave, contact Bob Kapteyn at Joliet Studebaker Parts in Joliet,

    IL 815-722-7262 he reproduces or has sources for many prewar Studebaker parts.

    John Shanahan

  2. I need to replace these cables for my cowl lights. Does anyone know a source for these?


    Get a catalog from Restoration Supply Company in Escondido, CA 92025 (800-306-7008) their page 7 illustrates dozens of flexible conduit conductors and connectors for prewar auto accessories, the catalog is a must have item for old cars restoration. Stude8

  3. Is this a car you own? One thing (besides the downdraft set up) that has me confused is the instruments. I was pretty sure that all of the 1929-30 Presidents (FE & FH) came standard with a clock. This car does not have one? Also why don't you check the engine number. It is stamped into the block on the left front corner (horizontal surface). If it is a '29 President it would have FE prefix. Also check the small tag on the engine side of the firewall.

    The engine appears to have a single spark coil distributor unlike the Presidents of 1929-30 that used dual coil ignition with 10 post caps. The engine model and serial numbers stamped on the top of the cylinder block at the left front end would clear up what engine it is for sure. Stude8

  4. Roger

    I have a 1928 Studebaker Commander model GB Victoria that is probably very close to the same dimensions of your EP Coupe. My rear bumpers measure 66 inches from left to right sides and the rear fenders extend outward about 1" further than the bumper ends on each side. RTQ has a very large collection of Studebaker literature that he has acquired over the years so he can look up details of most any Studebaker question anyone can pose. He lives in Northern Illinois area south west of the Chicago area. I live about 350 miles south of Chicago but did live near Richard about 8 years ago and can confirm him as one of the most knowledgable Studebaker data sources. I attached a photo of my 1928 Commander below.

    John Shanahan (Stude8)post-31139-143142609838_thumb.jpg

  5. Older post, but lets see... I have the three horn bugle-chime. My motor works, but no sound from trumpets besides a scraping/grinding type of sound. I've tried turning the adjustment knobs in and out to no avail. Any advice?

    I replaced the horn diaphragms in my Sparton some 20 years ago, previous owners had warped them by over tightening or other mishandling and once warped they no longer oscillated correct. You need Phosphor Bronze flat stock .005 thickness to make them from, it can be cut with scissors to size. I got the metal from a supplier in Morton Grove, Illinois called Guardian Metal Sales, 6116 Oakton St, Morton Grove, IL 60053. Don't know if they still operate? The bronze diaphragm has to be aligned so that when fully threaded onto the horn that it rests against the round brass tube connected to the horn resonator. Kind of like a pipe organ reed horn. It may take a few adjustment trials to get it aligned where the diaphragm speaks (brass tube has fine threads and a lock nut to adjust it) at the desired tone and volume. Good luck. Stude8

  6. Okay, After a good soak with PB Blaster and a turn with the impact I FINALLY got the nut off. Now, the problem is this. I constructed what I thought was a pretty good puller for the job out of some angle iron and threaded rods. Despite hours of trying I cannot get the steering wheel to separate from the shaft. Very frustrating. I am cranking on it enough that it further cracked some of the Bakelite but still no luck. I mean the steering wheel will not budge. I am very hesitant to use any head as I am sure that will really mess up the wheel hub. Thoughts?

    I'll attach some pages of an article from the ASC newsletter a few years ago about pulling Studebaker steering wheel levers, it might help.

    John Shanahan





  7. I know this is a long shot but I didn't figure it would hurt to ask. I have lurked here for years and read lots of threads, but don't contribute because I do not have a classic car and probably never will, but I love them just the same. I am working on a project and I would really like to have an accurate drawing of a Mercer Raceabout in front, rear, side and top views, and engine drawings that could be scaled. I had a drawing of the engine in an old Automobile Quarterly, but I lost it somehow. If anyone has some drawings they could scan and post, I would appreciate it.

    I have a number of Mercer race about scans of a 1959 magazine article about the teen's Mercer models, they are too large files to post on this web page but post your email address and I can send them direct to it. Stude8 ** I managed to add the Mercer images in another post on this forum after this one, unfortunately the article was about "L Head" models not earlier T Heads.. See post #3. Stude8


    I can certainly do that.........if I can figure out the technical part. Some errands today, doctor tomorrow. Maybe by the weekend. Looks like this only one inch wider than dodge wheel. Safety ring on outside

    I'll attach a photo of a 1929 Studebaker President roadster with 19" rims for comparison, I believe the bolt pattern is 5-1/2" diam 5 bolts.



  9. I have a 19" Budd wire wheel that I bought to fit my DB Victory 6 . It is the correct diameter but much (inch) wider than my Dodge wheels. Could it be for a Studebaker? Value?

    Condition average. Would like to keep safety ring, but might be flexible. Can get out of storage and text / email pictures if interested.

    Have inside spaces at Charlotte in April and could deliver...............

    Tom Dugger


    How about posting a photo, number of bolt holes and mtg circle diameter in inches. Also the hub cap mtg details, thread on or snap in??


  10. Thanks for the info, Gary. Right now, I'm using mine as a paperweight. Would be willing to trade it for a non-dented decent hubcap for my '35 Dictator. I've got one or two with non-factory creases.



    Can you enter a photo with dimensions of the 1935 cap you are seeking? I can check my spares for a possible match to trade for the wood wheel cap you have.


  11. Rex, Thanks , Milt

    The rotor with notch drive is Delco-Remy #825438 and fits Delco distributor #668A (1928 Studebaker President 8)

    The rotor with "D" shape drive is Delco-Remy #37598 and fts Delco distributor #668C (1929-31 Studebaker President 8 & some Pierce 8 cyl models)

    Both use brush Delco-Remy #35607 and spring Delco-Remy #35617.


  12. Marv

    Look close at these fenders you are selling.

    There are part numbers stamped on them and will confirm which cars they fit.

    Look art the ends and you will find 3/8 -1/2" stamped numbers.

    There were so many changes on these.

    Robert Kapteyn

    While checking a NOS Studebaker fender I have I found it DOES NOT HAVE ITS PART NUMBER STAMPED ON IT? It does have description and part number silkscreened in white paint on the underside (150826 Studebaker 1928 right rear). I wire brushed the mtg flange area to bare metal and there is no stamped number like others I have seen?



  13. can any one tell me how to wire the dome light on my 1931 commander model 70 it has a switch on the right door post for the back seat but all the wires have been removed. I could use a complete schematic Thanks R L

    To R L Elder; This forum does not allow pasting Excel files in a message, email me direct at studeracer_37@yahoo.com and I can reply with an Excel file of 1931 vehicle wiring that indicates all wires by size, type, color, start and destination points and function.


  14. There is a steel core bush that runs thru the rubber parts that is not shown, what I am trying to ascertain is where on the bolt goes the 3 washers. 2 of the washers have the centre hole diameter that permits it only to go on the bolt not where the steel core bush fits but what goes where.

    The washer with the large diameter hole either fits above or below the cross member, but I am not sure which ?

    The Studebaker 1929-40 eight cyl parts catalog page 8 Group A-7 shows the following rear engine mount part numbers for 3C model:

    Qty Pt # Descr

    2 195801 Cushion Upper steel & rubber

    2 180437 Cushion Lower rubber

    2 189241 Washer upper 17/32"

    2 41X357 Washer lower 17/32"

    2 189251 Bolt, 1/2-20 x 6 1/4"

    2 23X5 Castle nut 1/2-20

    2 41X357 Washer plain 33/64"

    2 6x15 Cotter pin 3/32 x 1"


  15. I don't find the number 466487 listed in any Studebaker chassis or body part catalogs from 1953 thru 1965 ?? I suspect since the bag is marked "Accessories" it was not a production part and therefore not listed in parts catalogs for production vehicles. It does look like a possible Packard part that would not be in Studebaker parts books. Stude8

  16. I am looking for the "T" shaped exterior deck lid locking handle or just the lock cylinder for one if you have such a part for a 1928 Studebaker Victoria. The lock does not have to have a key, it can be made to order once removed from the handle. Attached are two photos, the first is of the "T" shaped handle disassembled and the second shows three lock cylinders, the two upper ones are the type that came out of 1928 deck handles and are retained by a small round dowel pin in the groove at left end, the bottom one is from a later 1929 two part lock cylinder that is retained differently with a spring loaded expansion clip that engages an undercut groove in the handle bore.




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