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stude8

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About stude8

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  • Birthday 10/22/1937

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  1. Studebaker usually stamped the fender part number in the metal flange where the running board mounted at the trailing edge. It was 1/2 or 3/4 inch? high characters, try scrubbing the fender with a wire brush on the top rear edge of the flange and maybe all or part of the part number is visible yet to identify it.
  2. I looked thru my files and found the receipt for the green engine paint, supplier was Chuck@StudebakerParts.com 2410 W. Freeway Lane, Phoenix, AZ 85021, 602-995-5311 Stude8
  3. The correct engine color for 1929-31 Studebaker 8 cyl engines is Olive Green (color of spilled oil!) attached is a photo of a restored 1930 FE engine correctly painted. I bought a can 10 years ago from a Studebaker parts vendor ?? the label reads Studebaker Green Engine Paint, manufactured by Decatrend, Industry, CA 91746 Stude8
  4. John Thank you for the pages from your ignition manual. The diagram for the 1929-30 STudebaker distributor is correct, I printed it out and put it in my service files for reference. I did once own a 1930 President Victoria but sold it 10 years ago in a weak moment. I have since acquired a 1928 Studebaker Commander Big Six Victoria to play around with. It has a less complicated ignition system. John Shanahan (stude8)
  5. I found the data page I have from info in a 1934 Motor's Handbook about the 1929-30 Studebaker President 8 dual coil ignition system and just noticed the illustration is incorrect because they show a 12 cylinder cap in the drawing. Probably the art dept got confused by the 10 posts on the distributor cap (8 cyl's and 2 spark coil's). It does illustrate how the two coils are triggered by the two sets of points. Stude8
  6. The dual coil 1928-30 Studebaker President 8 system used a dual ended rotor that fired four cylinders with one coil and the other four with the second coil. The plug wires were arranged so one rotor tip commutated from one coil then alternated to the opposite rotor tip that commutated from the second coil. As it rotated each coil had its own set of points synchronized with the rotor that had two seperate commutator brushes in the cap [1 in center post and the other that commutated a brass ring molded into the cap]. Attached are several photos of the parts that comprised the delco 668A or C ve
  7. Just for the conversation here is a photo of a 1930 President FH model with the dual coil ignition system. Stude8
  8. Just in case it helps anyone here are several pages from an older Antique Studebaker Review club publication on how to disassemble and repair the steering column center lever action system on 1929-30 Studebakers. Stude8
  9. I have to agree with the previous post that Acetylene torch heat application on these frozen bolts is imperative to get them loosened. The heat (dull red!) causes the expansion of the threads that fractures the rust and corrosion bonds. Another step is to sudden chill the bolt after heating like with a CO2 fire extinguisher or a cold water soaked rag to give it a shrink event after the heat expansion. Those bolts after all these years of exhaust heating and cooling are annealed and softened less than original hardness factor and prone to twisting off under the torque stress being applied. Stu
  10. Since you are getting through all the bad exhaust hardware defects better be sure to buy some stainless steel replacement bolts and nuts so you don't have the same problems again in the future. Stude8
  11. The best way to free up the tie rod end is to hold a large metal hammer against one side of the holder part and then strike it with a ball peen hammer on the side 180 degrees opposite, the trick here is to momentarily deform the tapered body that clinches the tapered tie rod end with the hammmer strike and the tie rod will fall out of the holder part. Works every time for me. Stude8
  12. I just browsed over this new thread about redoing your Avanti, it brought back a lot of memories of restoring the few I owned years ago. I'll attach a few images of cleaning up metal under body parts like the "Hog Troughs". This was not difficult once the body is off the frame. I don't know if your plans have that extreme a job in mind but the photos might help planning your job. *It only takes removing 16 or 18 3/8" bolts and four strong guys to lift it off. This is 63RQ1325 where it sat in my driveway for a summer while the chassis was being redone. Up on 4 used "Grease Drums" I got from gas
  13. This subject about Carter BB-1 carb came up in a previous forum post in 2009, see the post at this link http://forums.aaca.org/f120/carter-bb-1-carb-tech-question-271518.html Stude8
  14. Rick I went thru my files and found the location where I found the Carter BB-1 updraft literature in, it is at the following link. Carter BB (updraft) Carburetor - The Old Car Manual Project Unfortunately although the photographic service data is all present there, I can't find an exploded view image of the parts assembly like there was for the BB down draft version? That is the best I can do right now. Stude8
  15. Rick, I never looked close at that diagram I posted, it is a down draft for sure, I just checked my service lit files and can't find any of the Carter material? I may have copied it off internet at some time in past? I'll have to go through my 5 drawer file cabinet and see if the Carter stuff was misplaced in another file. I'll get back later with hopefully the right image. Stude8
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