Matt Harwood

Sold, thank you!

That's not an original car, and without knowing who customized the body, it's going to be hard to put a value on it. $5000 seems like an awful lot for a modified body shell with nothing else, and seeing as it is a custom, EVERYTHING will have to be made from scratch. Then you'll have to find running gear to put under it, and, well, this is going to be a very expensive project with a final value that will be a fraction of the restoration cost. If you truly love how it looks and see the potential, then go for it. But it will be a financial loser unless it's a custom by a noted and well-known coachbuilder (say, Darrin or even George Barris). If it's merely someone's home-grown idea of what a Zephyr roadster should look like, you'll be upside-down on it before you pay to ship it home. Is $5000 too much? Yes, especially if there's no history or evidence that it's a noteworthy car. Should you rescue it? Probably not, unless there's history or evidence that it's a noteworthy car. I honestly don't see any upside to this unless you love the look, and even so, there are probably complete cars out there that could be modified to look similar to this for not a lot more money. What are your plans for it should you take it home?

I don't think anyone was giving you a snotty attitude, we were offering fixes to a problem in a way that's consistent with the club's core philosophy on originality. You're the one getting defensive because we didn't tell you what you wanted to hear. Nobody is angry about what you did to your car, but the bottom line is that you pieced something together and are trying to make it run on three different voltages, only one of which is what the car was designed to run on, added a hodge-podge of flathead parts from various different years, plus some kind of aftermarket ignition which seems to be the whole reason you started getting creative with the electrical system in the first place. And you're still trying to make it work with a 6 volt alternator charging an 8 volt battery just so you can have 7 volts to drive the ignition system, never mind the 12 volt starter that has a battery that doesn't even charge itself as you drive, possibly leaving you stranded. Can you blame us for saying WTF, dude? I think the only point anyone here was trying to make is that these cars ran properly on 6 volts when they were new, and there are still thousands of such cars doing so today. Nobody here cares if you installed multiple carburetors or a big cam or any other hop-up parts on your car, and they have nothing to do with the electrical system anyway. Your electrical upgrades are not necessary to make the car run properly, even with the modifications you've described, unless you've got some modern accessories such as a big stereo, A/C, or power equipment. Instead, what you have is a recipe for headaches, and you've got a big one with your hard starting issue. I think even the guys over at the HAMB are going to ask what the heck you're trying to do, and will most likely say convert the whole thing to 12 volts and be done with it, which is pretty much what we're saying--pick a voltage, convert the whole car to that system, and your problems should be solved. We don't care if it's 6 volts, 8 volts, or 12 volts, just that mixing and matching doesn't work, as you've discovered. And since you're the guy who put it together and it's not built to either factory or generally accepted specifications, it's very, very hard for us to diagnose a problem remotely over the internet. On the other hand, every single one of us will guarantee that if you put the electrical system back to stock specifications, the car WILL start and run properly, which is what we've all told you in one way or another. How can you argue with that? Figuring this out is not something we can do easily, since there's not much stock electrical system left in the car. It's like me asking, "Hey, I have this 1936 Finster Fireburner that was the only one ever built, can anyone tell me how to install the front fenders? I cut them apart and welded them into a shape I like better and now they don't fit." Or you can go to the HAMB and tell them what stuck-up snobs those AACA guys are, but I have a hunch they'll be a lot less polite to your situation than we've been. They usually don't tiptoe around the obvious like we do...

Looks like everyone's out enjoying their cars, but this thread shouldn't die. Last weekend we took the '29 Cadillac on a weekend tour about 60 miles west of Cleveland and it performed flawlessly all weekend. While touring, I noticed that my oil pressure was a little low. At idle, it was the 8 PSI that the manual says it should be, but underway, it was a little over 20 PSI, which is about 10 PSI lower than it was last year. Not concerned, but odd. If you'll recall from a few pages back in this thread, I installed a new spin-on oil filter in a canister and ran all-new hard lines. Part of that upgrade involved new fittings, and I upgraded to 5/16" hard lines as well, figuring more flow would be better. Turns out that I removed all the restriction and as the system pumps to the point of lowest resistance, in doing so I killed oil pressure. So I took one of the fittings off and replaced it with one that I salvaged from the old setup, and noted that it has a MUCH smaller orifice. Reinstalled it and voila! 30 PSI hot oil pressure, as expected. I love it when it's easy, don't you? Here are some photos of me, Riley the Red, and Cody at home before setting off and at the Sawmill Creek Resort last weekend before embarking on the tour Saturday morning. Get out and drive! PS: I should also note that the Eastwood high-temp satin black paint on the manifolds is holding up quite well. It has turned flat black, so it's not even semi-glossy like in the earlier photos, but it sure looks better than rust. For $15 and an hour of my time, I sure can't complain about the results. They've been heat cycled enough that I'm confident it won't burn off now.

+1 for what Bob said. Why do you have two circuits running? How does the 12 volt battery stay charged? I'm willing to bet your problem is either in the solenoid or the alternator, and honestly, that sounds like a needlessly complex system for such a simple car. An 8-volt battery is a band-aid fix for things like bad grounds and undersized battery cables, and these cars don't need 12-volt starting systems to be reliable. The guys who say you need to do it are flat-out wrong. My '29 Cadillac starts as quickly as my fuel injected modern car with an original 6V system, and every 6V car we have in our inventory fires and runs as it should. The ones that give us headaches and have equipment that doesn't work and cobby wiring are all converted to 12V and it absolutely kills value and sometimes even reliability. With the wiring you have cobbled together, finding your problem will be a challenge. If you're not ready to step up to a new wiring harness, at least get rid of the 12-volt system for starting, ditch the solenoid that isolates it, and try starting/running the car on the 8-volt setup alone. I bet doing that will solve your problem, but I will still encourage you to go back to 6-volts. Your light bulbs, starter, and other electrical systems will thank you. Trust the factory engineers--they were smart guys. Put it the way it was supposed to be, use an Optima battery and extra large cables, and I bet your problems vanish. Good luck!

Thanks to some feedback from Super Dave, it appears that this is a Super Six with Commodore trim and interior upgrades, and the engine is a 308 cubic inch unit, not a base 262. Apologies for the confusion.

Definitely a Roadmaster--look at the length of the hood, front fenders, and five vents in the side trim below the hood. Skirts are easily removed and a lot of folks ditched them so they tend not to be reliable indicators of the series. There are other issues with the car (no dual carbs, for a big one), but that's an awful lot of car for not a lot of money. If I had the money, I'd put it in my garage today!

This 1949 Hudson Super Six just showed up a few days ago and I've spent some time getting to know it. It's not perfect, but it's a nice driver-quality car that runs very well. From what I can tell, only about 1870 of these were built, and those I've seen at auction are selling for shockingly big money. And when was the last time you saw one at a show? Although the photos make it look otherwise, it is definitely bright fire-engine red, and while the paint was done some years ago, it still looks decent. There are a few signs that the car has been driven, but after a careful examination, I can find no significant body damage, rust, or questionable repairs anywhere. Most of the chrome has been refinished and the stainless was probably polished when the paint was done, so it all has a uniform look to it, with nothing too new or too aged to stand out. Experts will note that this car carries all the deluxe Commodore trim, but its serial number reveals it to be a Super Six, combining the best of both. The red leather interior has some original and some new items. The seats have obviously been reupholstered in red leather, but it sure looks like the door panels and rear side panels in the back seat are original and in good condition. The driver's door panel needs some TLC, but could easily be put right (we may even do this ourselves). Carpets are also more recent, and I have to believe that the wooden dash face is not original. The car has been converted (why do they always do this?!?) to 12V, so while the speedo works, the other gauges sadly do not, although the generator idiot light appears to be hooked up properly. And for this same reason, the clock and radio do not work, but the top has a fresh 12V pump that works. The top itself is tan vinyl that's in good shape, with a clear rear window, and it goes up and down with a little manual assistance (that's a BIG top--this sucker's as big as the '48 Buick Roadmaster we have sitting next to it). Mechanically, the engine is a later 308 cubic inch inline-six with Twin-H Power and an automatic transmission. It has been reasonably well detailed and runs superbly. Note the long-tube header and dual exhaust, which gives it a snarky engine note, and relative to just about anything else of the era, it's awfully fast. It fires quickly, the transmission shifts as it should (I believe it's a GM Hydramatic), and the brakes are firm. A good car that needs just a little detailing to be great. Asking $44,900, and we're always open to offers. Thanks!

You mean like this? That's exactly what the '49 Riviera/Coupe DeVille/Holiday were. Some of the best-looking closed cars ever, in my opinion!

Agreed, this car makes me weak in the knees. Very rare to find a big, 7-passenger sedan so perfectly proportioned and sleek-looking. Kudos to the Buick designers, this one is a home-run! The new owner will get a great Full Classic that can run with the Packards and Cadillacs for a fraction of the price. Nice!

I think merely painting the fenders and splash aprons black would add value without costing a fortune. The body colors wouldn't be correct, but at least with black fenders it would look more authentic. And I agree on the skirts. Removing them will help entice the traditional A buyer. If I were listing this car, I'd probably just forget they exist and not even mention it. They don't add value in any way. I understand folks wanting to do cars "their way" but it totally destroys resale value when it comes time to sell. Authentic colors cost the same, find one you like and use it to guarantee maximum return when you sell. Go off the menu and, well, expect to take a BIG hit unless you can find someone with the EXACT SAME taste as you who is also willing to overlook non-authentic features.

There are several companies that will fabricate a custom sheetmetal oil pan for you. Give them the dimensions you need and tell them what engine it's going on, maybe send them the one off the car, and they'll make it to clear any crossmember or steering rack you've got. I don't know about costs, but in terms of solving the problem correctly, this is a lot better than hammering some stock oil pan to fit. They aren't that expensive in the grand scheme of things, and it's one of those situations where it's finished and you never have to worry about it again. They'll even make it with an extra deep sump, baffles, or any other kind of oil pickup you need. Just a quick Google search turned up: ZZ Custom Fabrication Oil Pans Charlies Oil Pans High Performance Motorsports Racing Pans Moroso : Article : AboutOilPans.html Hope this helps!

Doh! You're exactly right, I don't know why I put 1950. Maybe I was thinking of the '50 Plymouth coupe we just listed. The car is definitely a '49. Sorry about the confusion. Thanks!

More photos showing off the amazing interior.

This 1966 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham is the first of several low-mileage, well-preserved '60s and '70s luxury cars that we've recently discovered. Showing just 34,910 original miles, and loaded with just about every option you could get in 1966, it's remarkably clean and a shoo-in for HPOF competition. This is one seriously LOOOONNNNGG car. I almost couldn't fit it in frame while shooting its profile, yet the proportions are excellent. I'm partial to the 1966 Cadillacs, with my father having a '66 DeVille convertible when I was a kid. This Fleetwood is completely rust-free and shows zero evidence of any accidents, although it's possible (not certain) that the passenger front fender has been repainted once in the very distant past. Maybe. Chrome is outstanding, including the "pontoon" front bumpers which always tended to accumulate debris and rust from the inside. All the stainless is equally nice, and there's no pitting or cloudiness to any of the trim. All the FLEETWOOD badges, the Tiffany-style script logos, and the Cadillac crests are exceptional, although one of the fender-mounted FLEETWOODs is missing its 'D'. The black vinyl top is also beautifully preserved, showing no wrinkles or popped seams, and no rust underneath. But the interior is where this car really sparkles. In short, it's immaculate, with only some light soiling on the carpets keeping it from showroom condition. The door panels are gorgeous, the seats are that funky '60s fabric that is so kitchy that it's cool again, and the back seat is simply massive--just look at the size of the rear doors! The photos make the seats look a little discolored, but that's because the material is kind of shiny, like a sharkskin suit, so it's hard to photograph properly. No worries, it is almost perfect in person. And as I said, it's loaded with options including climate control, cruise control, tilt/telescope wheel, Twilight Sentinel, auto-dimming headlights, an AM/FM stereo radio, and interval wipers. There's also a rear defroster and speakers. Back seat passengers are treated to limousine-like accommodations, with footrests and fold-up tray tables with their own vanity lights. The trunk is still lined with the original felt, and it carries what I believe to be the original spare tire. The engine bay is a bit grungy, but will surely clean up. We've given it a light detailing and have recently serviced the 429 cubic inch V8, so it runs superbly. With 340 horsepower, it moves the big sedan effortlessly with a muscular burble from the tailpipe. The heavy-duty TH400 3-speed automatic clicks through the gears as it should, and the brakes are reassuringly firm. There's absolutely no rust on the undercarriage or floors, and the tires appear to be in quite good condition, although I think I'd replace them if I were going to drive the car--I have no idea how old they are. This is a very impressive survivor that will stun the crowds with its opulence and wonderful detailing, and if you're a fan of "Mad Men" this is the perfect car for you. Start collecting some preservation awards for only $15,900, and this is the first of many such cars we'll be offering in the near future (E-mail me if you're interested in a list of cars that are coming up). Thanks!

It's official, I need a flathead Ford in my life. Every time one of these awesome Fords shows up, I get all giddy and can't wait to slide behind the wheel and take it for a ride, and this lovely 1941 convertible coupe is no exception. The owner built it for his daughter, who intended to run the Great Race with it. That explains the floor-shift 1939-vintage transmission, which is apparently more durable. Every detail was attended to and everything works. This is a VERY nice car. Ford had a bunch of blue/gray colors in '41, and my best guess is that this is Sheffield Gray. But whatever it's called, it was probably applied 5-8 years ago and still looks great. It's not two-stage urethane, so the shine looks right to my eye, and the color is subtle and sophisticated, particularly when combined with the red leather interior and black top. There's no rust, no damage, and few signs of road use. The chrome is all excellent, with almost all of it restored to show standards, and those pieces that were not restored appear to be excellent originals. The red leather interior is as comfortable as it looks, and with fresh springs and padding in the seats, the driving position is ideal. As I said, the column shifter was removed and a standard 1939 transmission was installed for durability reasons, but the original transmission, clutch, linkage, and shift lever are included with the car. All the gauges were rebuilt and are fully functional, the woodgraining on the dash and doors is gorgeous, and all the plastic components are in first-class condition. And as I said, everything works, including the radio, wipers, foglights, and power top. The top itself is black canvas that is showing a little age-related stretching, but nothing major, and it includes a matching boot. I believe the engine is the original 100-horsepower 221 cubic inch flathead, although there's really no way to be certain. In 1941, Ford changed the ignition system four times, the location of the fan and generator twice, and numerous other things along the way, so it's hard to say that anything is non-stock on these cars. There are cast iron log-style manifolds, a single exhaust that sounds great, and durability upgrades like braided stainless brake lines and a freshly rebuilt steering box. It runs on the original fuel pump, the original generator makes electricity, and it idled throughout the photo shoot without going above 160 degrees, so there's no "Flathead Fever." This is a very well-sorted car that was built to hit the road reliably. With the 1940s still commanding a big price premium, the '41 is arguably a superior car for half the price. This one includes all the spare parts, and is 100% ready to tour this summer. $44,900 and we're always open to reasonable offers. Thanks!

Leroy is a 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe convertible coupe. How do I know his name is Leroy? Well, someone wrote it on the glovebox lid, and that's what everyone around here is calling him. And in all truth, Leroy is an awfully nice little Plymouth. With a good quality frame-on restoration of a solid car, it looks fantastic, and I'm definitely a fan of how these sweet little Mopars drive. Finished in traditional Plymouth Cream, the bodywork is very good and the paint has just the right amount of shine to look authentic. All the chrome and stainless has been re-plated or polished, and all the lenses look new. Accessories like fog lamps, a back-up light, and a grille guard dress him up a bit. The interior is a lovely two-tone burgundy and tan vinyl that does an awfully good impersonation of leather. The stitching and materials aren't 100% authentic, but they do look period correct and the workmanship really is beautifully done. Things like the radio and heater are fully functional, although the clock is not. It appears that the gauges are original, not restored, but they all work as they should. The power top works well, although the canvas is a little baggy, and there's a matching padded boot that fits quite nicely. The engine has been rebuilt and was probably fully detailed when the restoration was done, but now shows some driving miles. However, Leroy starts quickly, idles nicely, and moves down the road easily, especially with a factory overdrive transmission from a later model Plymouth. The 6-volt electrical system remains, including the original generator, and the brakes are good. Four new Coker wide whitewall radials have been recently fitted, so Leroy is an awesome driver. As I've said before, these are some of the best-driving cars of the period, and Leroy is handsome and ready to go today. Everyone loves Leroy, and there were always three or four people standing around him whenever I turned my back. Find another convertible this pretty, this well restored, and this much fun to drive for just $36,900.

Have you tried Doug Seybold (although I bet you already have)? If anyone has them, he will. 440-835-1193.

1984 BMW 325i curb weight: 2359 pounds 2012 BMW 328i curb weight: 3406 pounds I'm constantly appalled by how new cars get longer, wider, and heavier with each successive generation. Why? Less mass = more performance and better economy. I wonder if BMW just said, "OK, this is as big as the 3-Series is going to get," and just built every car after that one the same size. Would people complain or stop buying BMWs? As Steve says, his 1984 BMW was a nice car that worked well in a reasonably-sized package. Why is the newest one more than 1000 pounds heavier and 15 inches longer?!? We haven't gotten THAT much fatter, have we?

Also, remember the beer at 8:00.

If it's rusty, it's not stainless steel. Stainless truly does not rust, although it does get cloudy. Real stainless trim can be buffed to a chrome-like shine, but if the part is rusty, I'm betting it's stamped steel that actually was chromed originally. Try a light duty magnet on it--stainless is non-ferrous, so a magnet won't stick. I'm guessing that your choice here is chrome plating, polishing won't get rid of the pitting, and the rust will come back without the protection of plating. Hope this helps.

New cars are bigger and full of electronics, safety gear, and features. I'll bet the Toyota Corolla and diesel Rabbit others mention above didn't have power windows, A/C, navigation, remote keyless entry, or any of that stuff we take for granted today. They probably didn't even have power steering. They definitely didn't have airbags and ABS and all the other parts associated with such systems (remember, wire is fairly heavy). So yes, older economy cars were probably better at pulling down good fuel mileage, and everyone shakes their heads at how we can't seem to even match what some cars were doing in the '80s. Well, I'm guessing that not many new car buyers want extreme gas mileage as much as they want A/C, a relatively quiet ride, a decent stereo, a decent amount of passenger space, and safety features to protect their precious snowflakes. Both of those cars you guys mention were notably smaller than just about anything available today, too. In this forum, of all places, where people constantly rail about how modern cars are "tiny plastic pieces of crap" the Corolla and Rabbit were about 15-20% smaller than a modern Civic or Corolla, and about ten times crappier in every measurable way except fuel economy. The uber-mileage cars in Japan and Europe are positively TINY. How many of you, used to your full-sized American sedans with their effortless horsepower, are going to pile the family into, say, a car the size of a Honda Fit with 45 horsepower and head out for a cross-country trip without A/C? And the Fit isn't even close to being the smallest car on the market over there. Let's see, no options, no horsepower, no sound deadening materials, and really, really small... Anyone still wondering why we can't "easily" get 40 MPG out of an economy car with today's technology? Makes the hybrids look pretty good, eh?

SOLD, thank you! Perhaps you guys will correct me, but according to the paperwork, this massive Ford was purchased new by the Damariscotta, Maine fire department as a bare chassis in April of 1950, and therefore I'm assuming it's a 1950 model. The fire department added a fire truck body and used it for several decades, racking up a miniscule 5000 or so miles. About ten years ago, it was purchased and restored with a wooden stake bed, and returned to its original Meadow Green color. The original flathead V8 was left untouched, and runs like new today with just 5671 original miles. Trucks like this don't usually get a lot of love, but someone went the extra mile inside, where there's a set of beautifully rebuilt gauges, a tan leatherette bench seat, and surprisingly nice headliner pieces. It's got a standard 3-speed manual with a 2-speed axle behind it, and can cruise at about 45 MPH without really working too hard. There's also a fully functional heater, and a nicely restored gas tank located behind the seat. The only thing this truck needs is some attention to the wood bed. It isn't deteriorated, since it has always been stored indoors, but it could use a fresh coat of varnish, preferably something more durable than whatever they used during the restoration, which doesn't seem to be adhering very well anymore. It would be an easy winter project that would pay big dividends, but even as-is, it looks pretty good (the camera seems to make it look worse than it is in person). The truck comes with restoration photos and original documentation, and if you want to engender some serious truck envy at the local Home Depot, this is your ride. A heck of a lot of restored steel for only $12,900, and we'll happily discuss any reasonable offer. Thanks!

This is a great entry-level hobby car that can be driven and enjoyed as-is, with all the big work already done. Given a frame-on restoration about 10 years ago, it's a rust-free example of a fairly unusual car that drives well and looks great. The paint is Kitchener Green, the car's original color, and it has been neatly replicated in single-stage paint, so it has a lovely soft gloss that looks right. Much of the chrome has been re-plated, including the bumpers, but other items like the hood ornament and door handles remain good originals with only light pitting. All the stainless trim is there, and aside from a few minor wrinkles in one of the rear quarter spears, it's remarkably good. A new interior went in at the same time, and it's a fairly faithful facsimile of the original, using gray striped Bedford cord and vinyl to create a bright, airy passenger compartment. The door panels and carpets were new as well, and I'm guessing the headliner was done at the same time, although there's one finger-sized hole near the passenger door. The woodgrained dash and gauges are original and showing their age, although all but the temperature gauge are functional, and I suspect the mileage shown (70,231) is authentic. The trunk has a matching mat, but no rust-through, even in the spare tire well. A very solid little car. The engine is the original 217 cubic inch inline-six, and I don't think it has ever been out of the car or rebuilt. It runs well, starting easily with just a little choke from the manual choke conversion on the carb. It's definitely a little crusty, but it runs smoothly and pulls the lightweight coupe around quite nicely out on the open road. The transmission shifts easily, and the brakes are good. Four whitewall tires are showing their age, but look great on the car (although there are more than a few, myself included, who would throw a set of blackwalls on and call it done). A very nice little car that's an ideal starter collectable. I don't think I've ever seen another one, and the basics are excellent. Asking $12,900, and we're always open to reasonable offers. Thanks!

How about a neat 1950 Plymouth Deluxe 2-door fastback? I haven't seen one of these before, and it has a very cool look. I also have a new-found appreciation for how these cars drive and handle--they're excellent, with plenty of power and good road manners, and you can't beat the reliability and parts availability. This one had a modest frame-on restoration about 10 years ago in the original Kitchener Green, which still looks great. Chrome is very good, with some items being re-plated and others like the door handles and hood ornament are slightly pitted originals. All the stainless is very good. There's also a recent gray bedford cord interior that looks correct and shows very little wear. Dash is original, and the gauges all work except the temperature gauge. Runs and drives quite well, although I don't think the mechanicals have ever been apart, so it's a little grungy under the hood. Zero rust, even in the spare tire well, which is always where it starts. A neat, unusual, inexpensive starter hobby car. We're asking $12,900, but we're always open to reasonable offers.