Matt Harwood

It's not unusual for old trucks to have extremely low mileage, since they weren't used for interstate travel, however, I strongly doubt that 627 is the truck's actual mileage figure. I tell most folks I work with to assume that odometers are incorrect and as several others have pointed out, it's really not relevant after all these years. Anything could happen--disconnected, speedometer broken, speedometer head unit from another truck, etc. There's just no way to know for sure. What you should do is simply get it running and have fun and don't worry about it! That's the whole point of the hobby. Enjoy!

I think you should expect every one of the cars on your list to be a #4 and in need of significant work. None of those sounds like a good idea for a first-timer. Keep saving and buy a complete, running, driving, usable car in good condition and fix up the little stuff along the way. Bringing a basket case back to life will break you if it's your first time out, regardless of your skill level. There are plenty of decent cars out there for under $10,000 that you could get in and enjoy and fix it up a little at a time. But starting with a $2500 restoration project will ultimately cost you A LOT more than $10,000 and you'll waste years NOT having fun in an old car. Spend more and buy a good car to start with. That's RULE #1 of old car buying. For example, I can put you into any of these cars for under $10,000 and they're ready to enjoy:

That's a really good point. I still have a hard time getting my 1993 Ford Mustang 5.0 insured for any kind of reasonable price. None of the collector car insurance companies will touch it and State Farm, which insures my other cars, wants roughly triple the cost of insuring my 2010 Cadillac CTS station wagon. Did I mention that I'm a 44 year old adult with a family, a house, and no tickets in at least a decade?

I can't imagine better advice than this has ever been given.

Our dealership works through Woodside Credit and we've had more than a few customers have good experiences with them. The rates are variable depending on your credit, the kind of car, and how much money you're putting down, and typically they'll want 20% from you to make a deal. Once or twice I've used them to floorplan a car (ssshh, don't tell!) and found them easy to work with. However, it's important to note that once your deal with them is done, they will very likely sell your loan to another bank. They are marketing, not a bank, so most of their loans are sold. This is why the rates are not quite as competitive as with dealerships that get factory finance rates and why they need so much money up front. I believe JJBest is the same way. As far as I can tell, the front offices of all the old car finance companies are pretty small, so you should be able to get a contact person there you can always reach with questions. During the purchase, they'll undoubtedly send an inspector to look at the car, and it'll be embarrassing how little that inspector knows about old cars, but just roll with it and let them do their job. They're just making sure that you're not taking out a loan on a pristine 1967 Plymouth GTX that's actually collateralized using a junkyard leftover. Call them and compare rates and find out what their down-payment requirements are. Beyond that, I think they're pretty much identical in terms of service and future payments (which will go to a different bank anyway). Hope this helps.

I, too, am a fan of the oddballs and you can get a lot more car for your money looking at a Buick or an Oldsmobile than with a Chevy. A Mercury Cougar is a lot cheaper than a Mustang for basically the same car (a little bigger, but no need to split hairs). If you like the looks of a Chevelle, look for a Buick Skylark or an Olds Cutlass--same car, less money, will still handle a big block with no problems. Look for cars built from, say 1972 to 1974, since they largely look the same as their earlier siblings but don't carry nearly the same values. Chevys are ubiquitous at shows and in the parts stores, but any GM car of the period will have good parts availability. And it's worth noting that the Buick GS Stage 1 with a 455 inch big block was the king of torque production with 510 lb-ft. Mustangs are really nice, as I've just discovered, because just about everything you could need or want is reproduced and a phone call away, and it's all ridiculously cheap. If it's your first project, that's worth considering. They all have their virtues, they all have their vices, but if you're building it for yourself, throw away the rule book and just have fun. Forget about "getting your money out of it" and use the experience as a journey. PS: When I was building Corvettes with a major tuner, our motto was always "I can get my small block car around the track faster than your big block car." Don't sell the small blocks short just because you're in love with big cubic inches. You won't use 80% of the horsepower of any engine you have during normal driving anyway, and as Rusty points out, the big block requires a bigger budget in almost every aspect of the build. You should also bear in mind that a Honda minivan today is faster than all but the gnarliest of the big block muscle cars, so a big block--unless it's way beyond stock--isn't going to terrify you the way you'd think.

You're welcome, George--I spotted that and knew my friend would want and need it for his CGV restoration. Here's a photo of one of the pistons from the car for which it was purchased. Yowza! The engine size is just over 12 liters!

I've learned that most buyers don't have much vision. It's not their fault, but it's hard for them to see past what's right in front of them. Even if the bones are good, it's always the insignificant stuff that folks get hung up on. How many shiny cars with fresh paint sell for crazy money at auction but have dangerous mechanicals? I, on the other hand, find it very reassuring to see on your car that the front suspension is full of shiny restored components and that the engine bay looks great. Just get in and drive! You'll find a new home for it. Someone will fall in love. That's a lot of top-down fun for the price of a used Hyundai.

A client and friend of mine is 94 years old and has owned some of the finest cars in the world, including what was widely regarded as the world's greatest collection of pre-war European Classics. It included everything from a Bugatti Type 57 to a Mercedes 540K to a BMW 328. He's also owned American Classics from Packard 12s to a Chrysler Imperial dual-cowl phaeton to one of the handful of Packard Darrin convertible sedans. He's been on the dias at Pebble Beach and has driven every noteworthy road in the world. He sold most of his cars a few years ago and now dabbles in inexpensive cars that he buys on eBay and just plays in his garage. On my last visit, I asked him if he could have just one old car, having driven and owned pretty much everything, what would it be? He thought for a moment, then said, "Well, that 1932 Alfa-Romeo roadster I had was pretty good. Light, fast, easy to drive, and pretty to look at..." Then he paused and thought some more and added, "But you know, those post-war Plymouths are awfully good!" No, he was not joking and I take his opinion very seriously. He currently owns about 10 1941-1949 Plymouths of various shapes and sizes, we've sold another 4 or 5 for him, and I'll agree with him completely. These little Plymouths are wonderful cars to drive. Don't judge them by their spec sheets, go drive one and you'll see that the just work better than a comparable Ford or Chevy in just about every way.

A client was having exactly the same problem on his Continental Mark II, and you can imagine how expensive those hubcaps are. At a national meet, one of the judges told him to jack up the car enough to take the weight off each wheel as he's installing the hub cap. Apparently the weight of the car was distorting the wheels enough that it couldn't get a good grip on the rim. He did this, jacking up each corner in turn, installing the hubcap, and then putting the car back on the ground. To date, he has not lost another hubcap, and this was more than 5 years ago. It sounds crazy and I was disinclined to believe that the weight of the car could distort the wheel, especially sitting on an inflated tire, but this anecdotal evidence suggests that maybe there's something to it. Perhaps worth a try?

Once you've got it drained, it's pretty easy to remove the whole tank and take it to a radiator shop to have it boiled out. It may be full of crud (we just pulled the tank on a 34,000-mile original '65 Fleetwood, so I'd say it's likely), but that's really the only way to be sure it's clean. Otherwise you'll be chasing clogged fuel lines for a long time. You're more than halfway there; pull the tank and get it cleaned and/or replace it.

*SOLD* For affordable entry-level Full Classics, it's hard to beat vintage limousines, and there's probably no more sheetmetal for your dollar than this 1947 Cadillac Series 75 7-passenger sedan. It's massive, no doubt about that, and thanks to spending the past two-and-a-half decades in the service of a funeral home (with a matching restored hearse sibling!), it's in very good condition. I suspect a cosmetic restoration was probably done in the mid-80s, but the owner believes mileage of about 40,000 is authentic (the odometer stopped working about five years ago, although the speedo is functional). The paint and much of the chrome have been refinished and it looks quite good, with massive doors that fit well and a hood is just a bit taller than other passenger cars to keep things in proportion. There are, of course, a few signs of use and a tiny bit of orange peel in the shiny black paint, but it's hard to make a grander entrance than in 18 feet of vintage Cadillac limousine. It was frequently rented to other funeral homes around the Cleveland area, as apparently vintage car funerals were quite popular--who knew? It was retired about three years ago and the owner has decided to let it go simply because it's not getting as much exercise as he thinks it should. Sadly, the fender skirts were removed many years ago and are lost to the sands of time, but I've seen two sets on eBay in the last six months, so I suspect they will not be impossible to replace. The interior was also nicely refinished in tan fabric that uses original-style stitching and patterns for a period-perfect look. There's minimal wear to the seating surfaces and the carpets remain in very good shape. That's real wood trim in the rear compartment and around the doors, and it's amazingly well preserved, although I think if it were mine, I'd get the linseed oil out and buff up a bit of a soft gloss on it. There are jump seats behind the driver's bench and the woodgrained dash was restored quite recently and looks great. I have to believe that the steering wheel was re-cast at some point because it's just too nice, but the gauges are original and in good shape, save for the temperature gauge which is not functioning and has been supplemented by a modern gauge under the dash. As usual, the clock and radio do not work, but everything else is ready to enjoy, including the power windows which were just serviced by Hydro-E-Lectric at great expense (new pump and all new cylinders in the doors). Cadillac's 346 cubic inch flathead V8 was the only choice in '47 and with proper gearing the stately old sedan moves rather well. It's not fast by any means, but it has an inevitable feeling on the road, a feeling of power that is akin to a steamship and once it's up to speed, it cruises easily at 60 MPH without complaints and in almost eerie silence. The engine bay is pretty original and the owner does not believe the engine has ever been opened up, but he has maintained it properly over the years he's owned it--obviously reliability was paramount for its duties in funeral processions. It starts and runs very well with maybe a tiny exhaust leak on the manifolds that disappears once it warms up. A recent tune-up puts it in excellent driving condition and it was fitted with a brand new battery moments before I arrived to see it last week. It stayed cool idling for the photo shoot and the Hydra-Matic automatic shifts like it should and doesn't appear to be a major leaker (they all seep a little bit). I believe it has 3.77 gears out back, so it doesn't strain itself on the highway and it has been fitted with recent Diamondback Classic wide whitewall radials that ride and handle superbly. This is a lot of car for the money and if you have a family, it's an awesome way to tour in first class. It's also quite reasonably priced for what was the second-most-expensive Cadillac in 1947. We're asking $32,900 and we're always open to reasonable offers. Thanks for looking!

*SOLD* For affordable entry-level Full Classics, it's hard to beat vintage limousines, and there's probably no more sheetmetal for your dollar than this 1947 Cadillac Series 75 7-passenger sedan. It's massive, no doubt about that, and thanks to spending the past two-and-a-half decades in the service of a funeral home (with a matching restored hearse sibling!), it's in very good condition. I suspect a cosmetic restoration was probably done in the mid-80s, but the owner believes mileage of about 40,000 is authentic (the odometer stopped working about five years ago, although the speedo is functional). The paint and much of the chrome have been refinished and it looks quite good, with massive doors that fit well and a hood is just a bit taller than other passenger cars to keep things in proportion. There are, of course, a few signs of use and a tiny bit of orange peel in the shiny black paint, but it's hard to make a grander entrance than in 18 feet of vintage Cadillac limousine. It was frequently rented to other funeral homes around the Cleveland area, as apparently vintage car funerals were quite popular--who knew? It was retired about three years ago and the owner has decided to let it go simply because it's not getting as much exercise as he thinks it should. Sadly, the fender skirts were removed many years ago and are lost to the sands of time, but I've seen two sets on eBay in the last six months, so I suspect they will not be impossible to replace. The interior was also nicely refinished in tan fabric that uses original-style stitching and patterns for a period-perfect look. There's minimal wear to the seating surfaces and the carpets remain in very good shape. That's real wood trim in the rear compartment and around the doors, and it's amazingly well preserved, although I think if it were mine, I'd get the linseed oil out and buff up a bit of a soft gloss on it. There are jump seats behind the driver's bench and the woodgrained dash was restored quite recently and looks great. I have to believe that the steering wheel was re-cast at some point because it's just too nice, but the gauges are original and in good shape, save for the temperature gauge which is not functioning and has been supplemented by a modern gauge under the dash. As usual, the clock and radio do not work, but everything else is ready to enjoy, including the power windows which were just serviced by Hydro-E-Lectric at great expense (new pump and all new cylinders in the doors). Cadillac's 346 cubic inch flathead V8 was the only choice in '47 and with proper gearing the stately old sedan moves rather well. It's not fast by any means, but it has an inevitable feeling on the road, a feeling of power that is akin to a steamship and once it's up to speed, it cruises easily at 60 MPH without complaints and in almost eerie silence. The engine bay is pretty original and the owner does not believe the engine has ever been opened up, but he has maintained it properly over the years he's owned it--obviously reliability was paramount for its duties in funeral processions. It starts and runs very well with maybe a tiny exhaust leak on the manifolds that disappears once it warms up. A recent tune-up puts it in excellent driving condition and it was fitted with a brand new battery moments before I arrived to see it last week. It stayed cool idling for the photo shoot and the Hydra-Matic automatic shifts like it should and doesn't appear to be a major leaker (they all seep a little bit). I believe it has 3.77 gears out back, so it doesn't strain itself on the highway and it has been fitted with recent Diamondback Classic wide whitewall radials that ride and handle superbly. This is a lot of car for the money and if you have a family, it's an awesome way to tour in first class. It's also quite reasonably priced for what was the second-most-expensive Cadillac in 1947. We're asking $32,900 and we're always open to reasonable offers. Thanks for looking!

*SOLD* For affordable entry-level Full Classics, it's hard to beat vintage limousines, and there's probably no more sheetmetal for your dollar than this 1947 Cadillac Series 75 7-passenger sedan. It's massive, no doubt about that, and thanks to spending the past two-and-a-half decades in the service of a funeral home (with a matching restored hearse sibling!), it's in very good condition. I suspect a cosmetic restoration was probably done in the mid-80s, but the owner believes mileage of about 40,000 is authentic (the odometer stopped working about five years ago, although the speedo is functional). The paint and much of the chrome have been refinished and it looks quite good, with massive doors that fit well and a hood is just a bit taller than other passenger cars to keep things in proportion. There are, of course, a few signs of use and a tiny bit of orange peel in the shiny black paint, but it's hard to make a grander entrance than in 18 feet of vintage Cadillac limousine. It was frequently rented to other funeral homes around the Cleveland area, as apparently vintage car funerals were quite popular--who knew? It was retired about three years ago and the owner has decided to let it go simply because it's not getting as much exercise as he thinks it should. Sadly, the fender skirts were removed many years ago and are lost to the sands of time, but I've seen two sets on eBay in the last six months, so I suspect they will not be impossible to replace. The interior was also nicely refinished in tan fabric that uses original-style stitching and patterns for a period-perfect look. There's minimal wear to the seating surfaces and the carpets remain in very good shape. That's real wood trim in the rear compartment and around the doors, and it's amazingly well preserved, although I think if it were mine, I'd get the linseed oil out and buff up a bit of a soft gloss on it. There are jump seats behind the driver's bench and the woodgrained dash was restored quite recently and looks great. I have to believe that the steering wheel was re-cast at some point because it's just too nice, but the gauges are original and in good shape, save for the temperature gauge which is not functioning and has been supplemented by a modern gauge under the dash. As usual, the clock and radio do not work, but everything else is ready to enjoy, including the power windows which were just serviced by Hydro-E-Lectric at great expense (new pump and all new cylinders in the doors). Cadillac's 346 cubic inch flathead V8 was the only choice in '47 and with proper gearing the stately old sedan moves rather well. It's not fast by any means, but it has an inevitable feeling on the road, a feeling of power that is akin to a steamship and once it's up to speed, it cruises easily at 60 MPH without complaints and in almost eerie silence. The engine bay is pretty original and the owner does not believe the engine has ever been opened up, but he has maintained it properly over the years he's owned it--obviously reliability was paramount for its duties in funeral processions. It starts and runs very well with maybe a tiny exhaust leak on the manifolds that disappears once it warms up. A recent tune-up puts it in excellent driving condition and it was fitted with a brand new battery moments before I arrived to see it last week. It stayed cool idling for the photo shoot and the Hydra-Matic automatic shifts like it should and doesn't appear to be a major leaker (they all seep a little bit). I believe it has 3.77 gears out back, so it doesn't strain itself on the highway and it has been fitted with recent Diamondback Classic wide whitewall radials that ride and handle superbly. This is a lot of car for the money and if you have a family, it's an awesome way to tour in first class. It's also quite reasonably priced for what was the second-most-expensive Cadillac in 1947. We're asking $32,900 and we're always open to reasonable offers. Thanks for looking!

♪ "You picked a fine time to leave me, loose wheel..." ♪

Save yourself the headaches and stick with 6 volts unless you're planning a massive stereo or other electrical system power hogs. Everyone thinks the conversion to 12 volts will solve all their problems, but in reality it's just a Band-Aid approach that creates a bunch of new issues, including lights that don't work, gauges that don't work, clocks that burn themselves up, and all kinds of starting and driveability gremlins that are impossible to trace. Your transmission will undoubtedly need a different solenoid for 12 volts and those may not even be available. In addition, when the time comes to sell your car, it'll be worth less than it would be with 6 volts because the buyer is going to have to figure out what you did to make it run on 12 volts and standard off-the-shelf parts will no longer work, so everything will be custom. 6 volt electrical systems worked when they were new, they'll work today. The issues come when folks neglect the cars over the course of decades and then blame the 6-volt system for the problems, when simply making sure everything is within spec will solve most issues that people think they need 12 volts to cure. Do yourself and the car a favor, make sure the original 6-volt system is in top condition and you'll find that it works just fine. If it's hard to start (which is usually why folks want to switch to 12 volts), I bet you have a bunch of bad grounds, undersized battery cables, a tired starter, and/or an undersized battery. Get everything into shape and it'll start and run just fine. My 1929 Cadillac starts as quickly as my fuel injected modern car, and it's still 6 volts. A 12-volt conversion, unless you're building a rod or adding electrical accessories, is a much bigger headache than fixing what's already there and will preserve the value of the car in the future and make it easier to service. Just a thought. Good luck!

*SOLD* Well, it seems I've become Power Wagon Central, and this is perhaps the second-nicest one we've ever had (with #1 being that blue one we sold in 3 days for full asking price last month). It's not 100% correct, but the restoration has less than 200 miles on it and the quality is excellent. I guarantee that if you like the color (or are, say, a Kawasaki enthusiast) then this truck is a slam-dunk. Very nice bodywork with doors and hood that close without a wrestling match and a brand new bed, including fresh oak floor. The paint is vivid, no doubt about that, but it's not as minty as it looks in photos--it's definitely high-impact green. The bodywork underneath is quite good and it doesn't look like this truck was patched together from scraps. It was a fire truck for many years, so you know it had an easy life punctuated by moments of flat-out work, which explains both the good condition of the body and fenders as well as the need for a replacement bed. Most of the marker bulbs are LEDs, turn signals were added, and the giant PTO winch on the front is fully functional, just in case you want to pull a house off its foundation or something. The gray and green bench seat upholstery is obviously not correct, but I kind of like it. A plain black or gray seat cover would be easy and cheap to make if you're not into it, but the padding is new so it's comfortable no matter what. The gauges are a combination of an original speedometer with aftermarket secondary dials, including an hour meter that shows just under 20 hours of test-and-tune time since it was completed. The Power Wagon's unusual driving position is actually fairly easy to get used to (the accelerator is up on top of the transmission tunnel) but it's definitely a man's truck, with all the controls needing a bit of muscle to operate. It has 12-volt electrics and no major modifications, but it would be easy to add a radio if you'd like. The engine is the same 230 cubic inch inline-six that powered a myriad of other Chrysler products, although the Power Wagon mills were built on their own assembly line and have heavy-duty internals. This one is fully rebuilt and runs superbly, idling smoothly enough to make you forget it's a heavy-duty truck engine. There's good torque and while it's not totally detailed for show, it's quite clean and everything is new or rebuilt, from the alternator to the tailpipe. There's a .060 overbore on the cylinders (the block is meaty enough for a .125 overbore!) and with the tall gearing, it's pretty eager to run. It'll idle in low at barely a walking pace and will cruise at about 45 MPH comfortably. Of course, if you really want to go someplace remote, nothing this side of a Sherpa will get you there better than a Power Wagon. New brakes, rebuilt transfer case and axles, and fresh tires mean it's ready to go. We're asking $44,900 and we're always open to reasonable offers. Thanks for looking!

*SOLD* Well, it seems I've become Power Wagon Central, and this is perhaps the second-nicest one we've ever had (with #1 being that blue one we sold in 3 days for full asking price last month). It's not 100% correct, but the restoration has less than 200 miles on it and the quality is excellent. I guarantee that if you like the color (or are, say, a Kawasaki enthusiast) then this truck is a slam-dunk. Very nice bodywork with doors and hood that close without a wrestling match and a brand new bed, including fresh oak floor. The paint is vivid, no doubt about that, but it's not as minty as it looks in photos--it's definitely high-impact green. The bodywork underneath is quite good and it doesn't look like this truck was patched together from scraps. It was a fire truck for many years, so you know it had an easy life punctuated by moments of flat-out work, which explains both the good condition of the body and fenders as well as the need for a replacement bed. Most of the marker bulbs are LEDs, turn signals were added, and the giant PTO winch on the front is fully functional, just in case you want to pull a house off its foundation or something. The gray and green bench seat upholstery is obviously not correct, but I kind of like it. A plain black or gray seat cover would be easy and cheap to make if you're not into it, but the padding is new so it's comfortable no matter what. The gauges are a combination of an original speedometer with aftermarket secondary dials, including an hour meter that shows just under 20 hours of test-and-tune time since it was completed. The Power Wagon's unusual driving position is actually fairly easy to get used to (the accelerator is up on top of the transmission tunnel) but it's definitely a man's truck, with all the controls needing a bit of muscle to operate. It has 12-volt electrics and no major modifications, but it would be easy to add a radio if you'd like. The engine is the same 230 cubic inch inline-six that powered a myriad of other Chrysler products, although the Power Wagon mills were built on their own assembly line and have heavy-duty internals. This one is fully rebuilt and runs superbly, idling smoothly enough to make you forget it's a heavy-duty truck engine. There's good torque and while it's not totally detailed for show, it's quite clean and everything is new or rebuilt, from the alternator to the tailpipe. There's a .060 overbore on the cylinders (the block is meaty enough for a .125 overbore!) and with the tall gearing, it's pretty eager to run. It'll idle in low at barely a walking pace and will cruise at about 45 MPH comfortably. Of course, if you really want to go someplace remote, nothing this side of a Sherpa will get you there better than a Power Wagon. New brakes, rebuilt transfer case and axles, and fresh tires mean it's ready to go. We're asking $44,900 and we're always open to reasonable offers. Thanks for looking!

What kind of coupe? Engine? More details will help with a diagnosis. My first guess would be a faulty oxygen sensor.

*SOLD* Many of you already suspect how much I love this 1941 Cadillac Series 61 sedanette--a cousin to my 1941 Buick Century sedanette and if this car had floated past my radar when I was looking at Buicks, it would have been very hard to resist. It comes to us from Colorado where a wonderful lady finished her father's favorite car after his passing. He owned it for many years, restoring bits of it as time and money allowed, but it never needed or received a full-frame off restoration. In the past 3-4 years, it has been comprehensively freshened, including lots of new chrome, fresh paint in the original Valcour Maroon color, a rebuilt engine, transmission, and rear end, plus brakes and new tires. It is not perfect, but a lot has been invested and the major stuff is extremely good. As with many things, the devil remains in the details. The Valcour Maroon paint looks incredible on the fastback shape and the finish is two-stage urethane, so it shines up beautifully. Thanks to a comprehensive cut and buff, it has a high-grade shine and really looks good even up close. There are a few bumps and bruises that inevitably happen over time, but this car really shows well. Panel alignment is one area that could use some attention, particularly the hood, which needs a little finessing to fit properly, but that's fairly common to these Cadillacs and could be remedied by someone with more patience than money. Experts will also note that the splash panel is missing between the body and rear bumper, but they're easy to find and I might even have a spare somewhere. Much of the chrome has been refinished, including the bumpers, taillight housings, fender spears, and trunk hardware, and I have to believe that the hood vents and grille have been refinished as well, although perhaps in the more distant past than the rest. The stainless trim around the windows has been recently buffed and looks great, including the unique Cadillac 3-piece rear window trim. It is fitted with reproduction fiberglass fender skirts which have an OK fit and really transform the car's look, so much so that I think I've decided my Century needs skirts as well. The fastback shape was just made for them. The medallions are also brand new. The interior is a bit of a conundrum. It was professionally reupholstered in the late 1990s and uses what looks like period-correct materials. The seats are a handsome woven material backed by light brown wool broadcloth. But somehow over the years it has faded and I can't explain why or how. The fading is extremely uniform with no signs that it was, say, parked next to a window, because there are no shadow marks anywhere inside. Peel back the seat cushions to reveal unexposed material, however, and you can see that the color has definitely changed. We are looking into perhaps re-dying it to make it look correct, but even as-is, you can see that the workmanship is really nice it's just a different color than it used to be. You’ll also note the window garnish moldings and dashboard were beautifully restored and look spectacular, all the gauges were rebuilt, and the steering wheel was re-cast. As is typical, the radio and clock do not work, but the lights and turn signals are good to go. The trunk is also nicely finished with tan carpets that aren’t totally correct but are in excellent shape and expensively tailored. The 346 cubic inch flathead V8 was rebuilt about 1000 miles ago and runs superbly. It starts without any fussing and an electric fuel pump was added to help prime it after sitting for a while (I’ve never needed to use it). You will note that the automatic choke is disconnected, and again, it’s probably not necessary because the sucker starts instantly and idles quite well without it. Olive green paint on the block works with the black exhaust manifolds to offer a reasonably correct look, and the water pump and generator have been rebuilt. The 3-speed manual transmission shifts easily without any clashing and there’s just a bit of clutch chatter on take-off that might go away with some use. Braking is confident and the suspension rides like the proverbial Cadillac, and the sucker’s surprisingly fast around town. It cruises at 65 MPH without strain and never even gets close to overheating or vapor lock. The underside is tidy but not detailed, and even with a layer of undercoating you can see that there has never been any major surgery on the floors. New BFGoodrich wide whites look awesome and give it a correct look. As you can tell, I like this car an awful lot, and if I didn’t already have a large-size 1941 GM fastback in the garage, I’d have a hard time not owning this one. It’s not perfect, but the major stuff is excellent and a dedicated hobbyist could have a few projects to tinker with on the weekends and have a flat-out awesome car to enjoy on tour. We’re asking a very reasonable $34,900, which is a fraction of the restoration costs invested in just the past 4 years (receipts are included). Do a little research and you'll find that cars like this in top condition sell for anywhere from $50,000 to $80,000 making this an excellent opportunity to own one of the very best designs of the 1940s.

And without skirts. You decide if you like them or not.

More photos.

More photos just because the sucker's gorgeous.

*SOLD* Many of you already suspect how much I love this 1941 Cadillac Series 61 sedanette--a cousin to my 1941 Buick Century sedanette and if this car had floated past my radar when I was looking at Buicks, it would have been very hard to resist. It comes to us from Colorado where a wonderful lady finished her father's favorite car after his passing. He owned it for many years, restoring bits of it as time and money allowed, but it never needed or received a full-frame off restoration. In the past 3-4 years, it has been comprehensively freshened, including lots of new chrome, fresh paint in the original Valcour Maroon color, a rebuilt engine, transmission, and rear end, plus brakes and new tires. It is not perfect, but a lot has been invested and the major stuff is extremely good. As with many things, the devil remains in the details. The Valcour Maroon paint looks incredible on the fastback shape and the finish is two-stage urethane, so it shines up beautifully. Thanks to a comprehensive cut and buff, it has a high-grade shine and really looks good even up close. There are a few bumps and bruises that inevitably happen over time, but this car really shows well. Panel alignment is one area that could use some attention, particularly the hood, which needs a little finessing to fit properly, but that's fairly common to these Cadillacs and could be remedied by someone with more patience than money. Experts will also note that the splash panel is missing between the body and rear bumper, but they're easy to find and I might even have a spare somewhere. Much of the chrome has been refinished, including the bumpers, taillight housings, fender spears, and trunk hardware, and I have to believe that the hood vents and grille have been refinished as well, although perhaps in the more distant past than the rest. The stainless trim around the windows has been recently buffed and looks great, including the unique Cadillac 3-piece rear window trim. It is fitted with reproduction fiberglass fender skirts which have an OK fit and really transform the car's look, so much so that I think I've decided my Century needs skirts as well. The fastback shape was just made for them. The medallions are also brand new. The interior is a bit of a conundrum. It was professionally reupholstered in the late 1990s and uses what looks like period-correct materials. The seats are a handsome woven material backed by light brown wool broadcloth. But somehow over the years it has faded and I can't explain why or how. The fading is extremely uniform with no signs that it was, say, parked next to a window, because there are no shadow marks anywhere inside. Peel back the seat cushions to reveal unexposed material, however, and you can see that the color has definitely changed. We are looking into perhaps re-dying it to make it look correct, but even as-is, you can see that the workmanship is really nice it's just a different color than it used to be. You’ll also note the window garnish moldings and dashboard were beautifully restored and look spectacular, all the gauges were rebuilt, and the steering wheel was re-cast. As is typical, the radio and clock do not work, but the lights and turn signals are good to go. The trunk is also nicely finished with tan carpets that aren’t totally correct but are in excellent shape and expensively tailored. The 346 cubic inch flathead V8 was rebuilt about 1000 miles ago and runs superbly. It starts without any fussing and an electric fuel pump was added to help prime it after sitting for a while (I’ve never needed to use it). You will note that the automatic choke is disconnected, and again, it’s probably not necessary because the sucker starts instantly and idles quite well without it. Olive green paint on the block works with the black exhaust manifolds to offer a reasonably correct look, and the water pump and generator have been rebuilt. The 3-speed manual transmission shifts easily without any clashing and there’s just a bit of clutch chatter on take-off that might go away with some use. Braking is confident and the suspension rides like the proverbial Cadillac, and the sucker’s surprisingly fast around town. It cruises at 65 MPH without strain and never even gets close to overheating or vapor lock. The underside is tidy but not detailed, and even with a layer of undercoating you can see that there has never been any major surgery on the floors. New BFGoodrich wide whites look awesome and give it a correct look. As you can tell, I like this car an awful lot, and if I didn’t already have a large-size 1941 GM fastback in the garage, I’d have a hard time not owning this one. It’s not perfect, but the major stuff is excellent and a dedicated hobbyist could have a few projects to tinker with on the weekends and have a flat-out awesome car to enjoy on tour. We’re asking a very reasonable $34,900, which is a fraction of the restoration costs invested in just the past 4 years (receipts are included). Do a little research and you'll find that cars like this in top condition sell for anywhere from $50,000 to $80,000 making this an excellent opportunity to own one of the very best designs of the 1940s.

Welcome to my nightmare. Titles and bogus VINs are the bane of my existence. I spend at least an hour a day and as much as 20% of all my time chasing title issues and it is never easy, consistent, or even logical. I lose sleep over it, my hair turns gray, and I'm pretty sure that when I finally snap, I'm not going to the post office for a shooting spree, I'm going to the DMV. Every time I walk into the DMV office, even if it's something I've done a dozen times in the past, I know that whomever I deal with on that day will have some new procedural wrinkle to throw at me. (Note to fellow collectors: please, for the love of Pete, title your old cars in your own name--don't leave it in the 1962 owner's name like the past three owners did, because he and all his ancestors are dead. This makes your car virtually impossible to sell, and no, I don't care if you don't like to pay taxes--form a Montana LLC and title your cars there.) Anyway, I have dealt with this specific issue on a Model A and will be dealing with it again in a short time. Just today I was at the inspection station with a 1966 Lincoln Continental to have a bogus VIN corrected. My experience? Every state is different. In New York, you can simply fill out a form and provide a rubbing of the new and old VINs and some photos, and they'll change it on the official paperwork. Easy! In Ohio, I was just informed today that a Model A with an engine swap that is titled by engine number is impossible to change unless I want to have a "Home Built" title and a 2014 VIN and model year assigned to the car. Yep, that's right, I'm the very first guy in Ohio history to ever own a Model A that needs a replacement engine block. Wow! (NOTE: sarcasm). On this Lincoln, when I told them what the issue was and where to find the correct VIN, they assured me they didn't need any help and knew where all the "secret" VINs were on the car, and they didn't want to tell me because, you know, they're secret. An hour later, they came out to ask me where, exactly, the VIN was on the car. Derp. My advice is to call several different DMV offices and ask several different official people what to do. When two or three give you the same answer, then that's your most likely course of action. Ask that person for their name and make a point to go see that person, even if you have to drive two hours to get there. Remember, to get a job at the DMV, I believe you have to fail an IQ test, have the attitude of a swarm of hornets, and the same amount of sympathy as a tornado, so just bear in mind that it's always easier for them to just tell you, "Tough luck," than to actually help you solve a problem. It's almost smoke break time anyway. They don't care, they don't have to, they're the government. So ask multiple people and see what happens. You will probably have to talk to 15 different people to get the same answer twice, but keep trying. Failing that, there are also title services you can use that can generate a new title out of nothingness, and they're legal. Some states reject titles created this way, but you won't know until you spend $1000 and get the paperwork done. That's a last resort, and it works about 70% of the time. I would recommend against trying to change numbers on the car to match the title, which is technically fraud and ends up with the government impounding your car and fining you or throwing you in jail. Don't do that. However, you should also bear in mind that the inspectors at the DMV stations are not experts on any old cars of any kind (they're not experts on anything except being unpleasant jerks), so who is to say whether an old-looking stamped metal tag affixed to the frame or firewall isn't authentic... No, I don't have a bad attitude. Not at all. Nope.