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cdoersom

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  1. Here might be a source of supply. Here's the specs on various photocells - it looks like the Silonex NSL-4950 might be the closest fit. Silonex And it looks like Allied Electronics has it in stock for $2.05 each. Allied Electronics Chuck
  2. When I was testing the photocells and trying to find a replacement, I put a rheostat in place of the sensor in the car and then watched the values change on the computer screen using the test on page 8A-88-5 as mentioned previously by Jim. This way you can find out the range that the car is looking for and then find a suitable replacement in an electronics catalog, or at least devise a test for used sensors to see if they are good. Chuck
  3. I haven't had a Reatta in a while, so I can't check the part. I bought a few of the sensors and should have some left, but I can't find them amongst all my junk. Anyway, I bought the parts from All Electronics for about $0.75 each. I think it was part number PRE-23, but can't verify. I looked it up on their web site and they are out of stock. What I do remember is that it's called a Photoconductive Cell and has a high resistance when dark and a low resistance when light. And that's how you test it - cover the sensor and the resistance should be high, shine a bright light on it and the resistance should be low. The catalogue says that the high resistance is about 50K ohms and the low resistance is 100 ohms. If someone could test their sensor and verify this it would help. You might be able to find these from other electronics parts vendors. If I stumble onto my stash of sensors I'll let you know. Chuck
  4. cdoersom

    ANFSCD

    I have a 98 Regal GS, 3800 supercharged. Pin "K" goes to ground. Attached is the pertinent page from the manual. Hope this helps. Chuck
  5. This car has been my daily driver for about 3 years. The positives - It runs good and has never let me down. It has new tires, and the windshield is less than 2 years old (cost $1400 to replace). The negatives - it has 153k miles, the A/C doesn't work, the paint is not the best, and the driver's seat has a few tears. I think the trans was rebuilt before I bought it 3 years ago, but I can not prove this. I have tried to give this car the best care I could. I use synthetic fluids in the engine and trans, change the engine oil and filter every 3-4k miles. The price is $750. If interest you can email me at cdoersom@_removethispart_swbell.net Thanks, Chuck
  6. cdoersom

    MPG

    My '89 gets about 26 MPG, drive the car mostly to work and back which is 30 miles one way about 20% town and about 80% highway. Car has about 152K and has many new parts, but is mostly stock. When I bought it, the tires were not correct size - they had a higher profile and a skinnier tread (I think they were 245/55R15. I recently put 225/60R15's on it and I can feel a real difference in the pull on the power stearing and the mpg seems to be dropping slightly - probably more rubber on the road. Chuck
  7. Thanks, I'll give that a try. Chuck
  8. The A/C in my '89 works ok at startup, blows cold, been converted to R134 over 3 years ago. I can drive it for what seems like any length of time and the A/C will work until I stop. I can stop at a red light, or stop to go in a store, or whatever and when I start going again the compressor won't come on. And it won't come on again until the car's had a chance to cool down. It seems like as long as air is circulating, it works ok, but once the air flow stops so does the A/C. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on how to fix? Thanks, Chuck
  9. Where is the best place to locate the trans. cooler? My first try was to lash it to the power steering cooler support, but then the air conditioning stopped working when I'd stop at a red light on a hot day. I think it made the air conditioning evaporator too hot.
  10. Why limit yourself to the three lights per side that are used stock. Why not have 4 or 5 lights that go in sequence. Just change the single filament bulbs and sockets to doubles and add more timing circuits. I think most of the kits you can buy only have the capacity to flash 3 lights because few cars have more than 3 lights per side.
  11. Padgett, Here's what Epicure is talking about. Apparently one can change the options stored in the BCM so that they agree with what options are really on the car (only necessary with a chip change). There are two numbers involved, each is a "power-of-two"/bitwise byte describing the options. Here's what it says in the book: If vehicle is equipped with: ---------------------------- US Car - Add 128 Export displays (option NM8) - add 32 Reatta Body Style - add 16 Illuminated entry "Not" Present - add 4 Twilight Sentinel - add 2 So for most 89's, it would be US, Reatta Body Style, Twilight sentinel or 128+16+2=146 (I think the auto-dimming dash lights is called the twilight sentinel on the 89) Now armed with this number, go to the BD90 code on the BCM on the touchscreen and compare the number shown with 146. If different, go to BCM override BS06 and enter the 146. For option content #2, the same applies. To get the number you take: If vehicle is equipped with --------------------------- Washer fluid level sensor - add 128 Theft deterrent - add 64 Anti-lock brakes - add 32 Compass - add 16 Tape deck - add 8 Oil level sensor - add 4 So most 89's have all of the above except the compass, so the number would be 128+64+32+8+4=236. Compare this with BCM code BD91 and if different, change at BCM override BS07. My guess is that Epicure came up with the wrong number the first time, and it confused the BCM. So on his second try, he was able to enter a code the the BCM could tolerate. It may still be slightly wrong so I would advise Epicure to check the codes again. Chuck
  12. Turned key, waited about 10 sec. - still stalled after starting.
  13. Flash - My problem is almost exactly the same. It started as only one restart being required, but has grown over a period of 3-4 months to needing 2 or 3 restarts. It only happens after the engine is off for a period of time, like first thing in the morning, or after work.
  14. I have this same problem - replaced all the same items, plus idle air valve, electronic ignition module, fuel filter. Checked resistance of ignition coils - in spec. Did not check fuel pressure, but it stalls even if you let key on for a while before starting. A new prom was mentioned. I called local dealer - they show no upgrade to original prom (ASSU1302). Does anyone know the partnumber of the upgrade prom that has the fix that Padgett mentioned? Or if someone has the binary file of the upgrade, I have a prom burner and could burn my own prom if they would e-mail it to me. Thanks, Chuck
  15. FlyByNight - Yes, item 4 is the part I am looking for. AutoZone has it for $127, but couldn't find at GMPartsDirect. Thanks, Chuck
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