john walker's workshop
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Posts posted by john walker's workshop
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We do have Seattle Brake and Clutch here.
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I'm familiar with worn clutches. No slip, no sign of oil around the disc. engine mounts are good. There's a quarter elliptic leaf spring under the trans, over to the frame to keep the engine from torquing sideways. Maybe that needs to be snugged up. Engagement point is adjustable of course. So what years/models/brands have the same clutch assembly and do the 6 and 8s use the same assembly, and where to get it for the best price and quality?
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I have a serious shudder taking off in first gear, so I assume the clutch needs to be replaced and the flywheel machined. Does anyone know the diameter of this clutch and what year range it fits? There are a couple sets on ebay with a 9.25" diameter. Is a 6cyl. different than an 8cyl? Thanks, John Walker seattle, 206 789 6800 jwworkshop ataoldotcom
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The foam seal appears to have a rounded profile, a D shaped cross-section.
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I don't see the sponge rubber listed at Steele, do you?
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I have the split windshields out and apart for rechroming, and need to source new rubber. Around the frames and on the body in front of the dash panel, that the frames close onto. Steele or Metro moulded? Was the quality decent? The frame rubber comes by the foot and needs to be joined at the bottom of each frame with a superglued miter. Should I do that on the inside bottom corner or the outside bottom, or both? I'm thinking both. Thanks, John Walker
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NC industries had excellent repops of the bumper bolt bases and covers, so I'm good there.
Still need a pair of uncracked chrome headlight rims/doors, or undented complete headlights.
Windshield frames w/good chrome. (NC can make them in a pinch).
Rebuilt water pump.
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Someone must have something. How about a good lead?
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FOR SALE: Lots of stainless, chromed steel and pot metal pieces from a '54 hemi wagon. Just trim pieces inside and out, no car body, no running gear or bumpers. Tailgate hinges, sliders, window crank, inside rear stainless strips, pot metal rear fender spears, 235HP tags, etc. John, Seattle, Wa, 206 789 6800 jwworkshopataoldottcomm
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Anyone have any leads?
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Any leads are appreciated!
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Looking for two rear bumper bracket covers that the big attaching bolts go through, like in the picture. Front and rear are the same.
Ignition switch/armored cable/coil assembly with a key
Opening, split windshield frames with good/decent chrome
Flex beam headlight retaining rings with no cracks, or nice complete headlights
Rebuilt water pump.
Thanks, John Walker
206 789 6800
jwworkshopataoldotcom
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I welded the holes and redrilled. The new Bernbaum master cylinder I ordered has a very small reservoir section, so I had Hagen's sleeve the original one. Easier to bleed without constantly adding fluid every 4 pumps.
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Well, I dug around in the garage and found a 2bbl carter carb from a '48 buick super 248ci. I made an adapter and it runs great. Automatic choke, so no more choke and throttle cables needed.
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Anyone have one or more good ones?I can polish them, just no dents to speak of. Thanks, John Walker 206 789 6800 jwworkshop ataoldottcommm
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Thanks for the rundown on carbs. State of the art in '33, but still pretty crude. I'll look at the '37 2bbl. I could make an adapter rather than swap manifolds.
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The original stromberg carb is pretty crude. I would like to use a better carb. What else fits, or can be made to fit? Also, who rebuilds water pumps so there's no packing, just bearings and seals? Or is there a kit like that? Thanks, John Walker 206 789 6800. jwworkshop at aoldottcom
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Bernbaum's says they never saw a front cylinder with this bolt spacing. Who else might have new wheel cylinders? The pictures show the clean, new Bernbaum cylinder in the backing plate , compared to the original and bolt spacing measurements from both. Any leads appreciated. It's possible I can just move the bolt holes in the backing plate and use the new ones, but I'd rather not.
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As noted, I don't have a key to do it the normal way.
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No key for my '33 Chrysler. The ignition is "protected" by a metal flex tube. I need to get the tumblers or the whole ignition switch out to cut a key. Got 5 blanks of the zig-zag key to play with. Any ideas on how to get it out? Is the door key the same as the ignition? Anyone out there with '33 Chrysler knowledge? Thanks, John Walker Seattle, Wa, 206 789 6800 jwworkshop ataoldotcom
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Key is lost. Anyone have a key/switch/protective cable assembly? And how can I get the old one out of the dash with no key? I got some raw bent style keys off ebay, but they supposedly can't be machined in the normal key cutter. Any tips?
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Who can I get the 6 bolt flange rear axle seals from? Bernbaum didn't have them. There are also a few other pieces in the seal area like a felt ring, a stepped metal spacer and a plastic, stepped spacer. Who has a good source for '33 parts in general? Any leads appreciated. Thanks, John Walker, seattle, wa, 206 789 6800 Jwworkshop@aol.com
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Both chrome headlight rings have cracks, so need two. Tanks.inc has a gas tank that's pretty close, probably won't find a good original, but still interested.
1933 chrysler royal 8 rear axle seals needed.
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Found them on ebay.