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For all the time that I have known you you have always been so thought full. Leave it to you Jim to be there always. For all your help and your caring, to you, my friend, God bless and merry Christmas

Have missed you all. Jim, Merry Christmas. You are special. The wealth of information here is priceless. To all of you, even though it seems that I come only when there is a problem, I hope your holidays are blessed and safe. Now... I need to know the specs on the wheels that will fit a 90. Bolt spacing and such. I hate to take the OEM wheels off but at 125.00 to refinish.... a nice set of five spoke chrome wheel would really look nice. Make it look like a 91. But that is not all... I need to know procidure to replace the window regulators. I know it is tight but if they don't go up and down what good are they? Please, side comments like pulling the door panel and replace does me no good. If you have done it and can walk me through it to make it as painless as possible for that I would owe you my life.... Part numbers on the regulators and motors would be a real plus. I have a 98 Riv where the regulator assimblie was just replaced. The motor, if you look at it long enougth, almost looks the same. Any thoughts? No matter what the responce.... Merry Christmas and be safe out there. God bless us, everyone..........

Just bought a part off of Ebay. The seller stated that it was the license plate lights. It looks to me to be the back up lights. Can anyone tell me what it is? GM part # 16507251-1 Thanks in advance

Clean out the air flow cencor. Use brake clean

there is a cencor that sits right next to the fan motor. You can ID it by the two screws that hold it in place, or is it three, no matter. When you pull it you can look into the heater core. What happens on these old r12 systems is that the deal that confert the fluid to gas will begin to leak. The oil will leak out and coat your heater core. Using a can of brake clean, spray the heater core down and with a shop vac with a hose attached suck up as much of the trash that you have cleaned off. After you reinstall the censor you will smell the smell of brake clean but it will go away very quickly. You will, however notice a much imporoved air flow throw your vents. Info given is just related to you from me from passed experince. When in doubt always check with a pro.

Yeah, I can see your point. Old car, no time to work on it. Bought it thinking she was pretty cool. And didn't she run like the wind? Old cars, and those with them darn EMCs'. Hard to work on even if the parts are still avalible. Now correct me if I am worng, that year had the Teves ABS system on them too. You have got to be a little unnerved about all the horror based around them. What do you want for those vent windows? Wheels, if not all chewed up, and center caps? Front plate holder? Head light motors, if new?

Right you are. It wasn't that the vacum line had gotten disconnected it was that it was worn through. And to think I thought to look but did not see. Problem solved. However I did get some part numbers for those of you that care to jot them down. 1. Upper Acuator = 1996712 = $23.55 (GM numbers) 2. Lower Acuator = 1996710 = $23.55 3. Programer = 88960916 = $466.00 All parts still avalible from GM For all that helped, thanks again.

Let it be known to all men that the statement that I made about the missing pages of the manual that can be download was wrong. The complete 90 Reatta manaul can be downloaded off the site that padgett posted if you are so enclined. You will need to download the converter program which is a demo. You have 30 days to use it before you have to decide if you want to buy it. There are a wrath of monster PDF files that are opened separately so make sure that you have a fresh printer cartridge availible and a boat load of paper. Thanks again Padgett for link. I am now off to run codes and perpare to have some major back pain. If you don't here from me in the next few days it will be because I will be in traction.

Wally, thanks for bringing that little tibit of info to my attention. I will be laying on my back here in a few moments and the more I know the better the trouble shooting will go. I did print out the manual pages that were avialible, and of course, the access to the diagnositics through the ECC were not part of them. Looking at the 91 Olds manual, all looks to be the same. But of course that pertains to the parts that will be needed to replaced. As for the actuators, they too seem to be the same and their positions under the dash. One has to hope that these are still carried by the dealer and are in plentiful supply. If I am wrong in any of my assumptions, part numbers will be submited here for the record upon completion.

Padgett, out standing advice on the Reatta on-line manual. It is big but definitely worth the trip to Kinko's to use their ethernet connection to download. Thanks

Wally nice to know that you are still around. The headlight motors are working great. If I read your post right you have opted not to pull the dash pn the second one and just let it blow as it will. As for the first one the replacment of the actuator did the trick. I have but one problem. The only manual I have that might even come close is for a 91 Toro. I have been looking through it and it seems that many procedures are the same if not very close. Being that you know where that actuator is, where might I find that beast? I got Pagetts post and the link to the manual and will be heading to Kinkos to down load it in the morning. But if it is behind the glove box that would be a blessing indeed. As for laying on my back on the drivers side and reaching up... that will be something that will have to be subed out. Heck, it takes everything that I have to even get into the car. Tried that on when I was getting error message in the dash and was told to reach up and reseat the connector . It didn't take long to figure out the equation of "my body mass + small cockpit = do not enter" Whatever the outcome, it was nice for you to take the time to post. "Thanks"

Now isn't that a kick in the butt. One day it's working great, the next you're tearing out the dash. Would love to know how to find this "On Line" manual that was spoken about. I beleive that I will try something different this time around. instead of going to the worst possible case senero I will start with the simpler one. Jim you said that by looking up under the dash you saw the linkage. Now just where under the dash would one be looking? The glove box doesn't seem to pose much of a problem so I beleive that I will start there in the morning. As for right now, as I look off into the distints, the fire works are just beginning. For today I am calling it quites. But once again..... that online manual, it sure would be nice to know where to find that. You offer on parts needed has been noted. And while we are on the subject of part, I do need a sunvisor L/S in saddle. The part that is needed is the clip that monts on the inside. Dealer said that, in their day, they were sold as one unit. It is on a 90 Convertable, just in case the visors were different for the coup. Again, thanks to all. Wish me luck. Its my wife's car. And even though it still blows cold, it doesn't blow cold in the right places. That is bad!! It is good to be conversing again with the "brain trust" of the Reatta world.

Thank you Padgett. I have been away for quite sometime. Have forgotten to state year. It is a 90. As for the "On-line" service manual, which I don't remember being avalable the last time that I had a problem, where might I find that? And of course any part numbers that might need to be replaced would be very helpful. I likewise forgot to inform the viewing folks that this problem just started. As most things, one day it's working fine, the next, or as in the case, the next hour, it failed. I am correct in the fact that the systems default is to the defroster and the lower vents, am I not? Thanks for info.

Air flow defaults to defrost and to heat vents with a/c on. Cold air from both. No manual. Have looked for the obvious, ie: unpluged vac hose under the hood and found non. Have done a search pertaining to "Diverter" and "air flow". Found one that might be a good one where venting doors located behind the glove box could be a problem area. If there is a better one or if someone is going or has gone through this please advice

crank sensor?