Joe Quarter

I want to clean up my EGR value as part of a general overhaul. I have looked to see if anyone offers the "inner" gasket (not the valve to manifold gasket but the one that the three valves pass through between the solenoids and the base.) From an old valve I have this looks to be #17085692. Any ideas about (1) finding a source for the part or (2) what sealing compuand I might use if I need to reuse the existing gasket? Thanks Joe Q

Thanks. JQ

I am 5-11 and just fit my '90 coupe with sunroof/16-way seat. It's not an ideal driving position, but it is fine. When I had my seat out to replace the recline motor I did consider modifying the seat rails. I think there is about 1/2 inch to gain at the rear, but it would be a big mod. I did not bother. Joe Q.

Thanks for the tip, but I really want to tinker on this one. I've done a bit more work and it seems all but the '91s (mine's a '90) take a 2-1/4 inch diameter cat. Anyone agree/disagree? Thanks. Joe Q

It seems that my '90 has a blocked catalytic converter. I have done a check on several online parts suppliers but they list different sizes. Anyone have the factory part number? Anyone know the inlet/outlet size if I go the aftermarket route - 2.5-inches seems to be the most often quoted? Any suggestions about upgrades etc that might be worthwhile without spending an arm and a leg? Any installation tips? Thanks Joe Q

I already took the accessory belt off to make sure the noise was not coming from anything there. It was not. Did not have much time this weekend to do much, but one of the sources of noise is the EGR value "waffling". The valve itself is good. I did the EGR checks in the book and I even swapped it for one off by '90 convertible to double check. I am wondering if it is vacuum related or maybe a blocked exhaust (collapsing cat?) causing other things to make noise. One thing I did do was run the car with the EGR blocked off as whatebver it is is causing the EGR value to make the waffling noises I mentioned. The car starts fine, but struggles to make upchanges. Hence my thoughts about vacuum problems, or maybe block exhaust. The book talks about checking the EGR valve tube as well. Could the vacuum modulator be a culprit? Keep the ideas coming, please. Joe Q.

Any ideas to give me background on this transmission problem before I take it into the shop for a full-blown diagnosis would be appreciated. 1990 coupe with 120,000 miles. The transmission recently (past 100 miles) has started wail/roar at higher revs and changes are getting rougher. Here's the situation. When driving and gently accelerating everything is fine up to about 2,500 revs. Above this the transmission starts to wail/roar. If it changes up before it starts to wail/roar fine, otherwise the changes is abrupt and getting worse as I do more miles. My guess is that this is a torque converter problem, maybe something to do with the lock up? Here's why. In both Park and Neutral, when I increase the revs I still get the wailing/roaring above about 2,500 revs. Should add, no error codes whatsoever. Help, advice, guesses welcome. Joe Q

I nee sun visor clips in burgundy for my 1990 Reatta convertible. Can anyone help? Thanks. Joe Q

Thanks for the guidance. I guess I will see what Pep Boys can do on an exchange basis. I will let you know.

A routine check of the brakes on my 1990 coupe revealed a slight weep from the right rear caliper. The manual details how to rebuild the caliper, but it seems a lot more complicated than the last time I did something like this twenty years ago on my 1971 Triumph Spitfire. Does anyone have any experience or advice to offer about this item? Are the calipers offered rebuilt on an exchange basis?

In the stock installation, it is the captive nut that is plastic and the "stop" bolt is steel. The nut sits in a square hole in the top of the frame that surrounds the headlamp. On the headlamp door, you will see an extension that seems to have no purpose. When open, this lines up with the stop that should be in the square hole. My experience is that the plastic captive nut breaks away from the lugs holding it in the hole, leaving the screw and nut rattling around. I would not be surprised if they were missing entirely. You just need to do a little sleuthing, or check out an exploded parts diagram. Good luck.

Add nero-t and rolex_person to the list of eBay shills.

The left front on my 1990 coupe is just starting to show signs of wheel bearing failure (turned 100,000 miles this past weekend). The handbook suggests that the bearings can be replaced, but the procedure seems complicated. Do I understand correcly that a hub assembly unit at about $80 makes the job straight forward? Are any special tools required? Is the part number quoted (7470585) the same for left and right assemblies?

Here is my bit on the Reatta brakes (and maintenance in general).<P>Reattas are complicated and most are over 10 years old by now. My experience (1) is that as cars get older their owners skimp on maintenance, particularly when a car that was expensive new gets to be in the realms of the afordable. Old complicated cars cost a lot to fix and maintain in relation to their worth, but older cars need more maintenance than when new - everything is worn if not worn out.<P>As far as the brake system is concerend, my experience (2) is that regular brake fluid changes does wonders for braking efficiency and long life. With all those anti-lock brake passages, switches, pumps etc, in the Reatta system, internal corrosion resulting from moisture retained in old brake fluid is a promlem waiting to happen. This will not stop electrical problems or that damned accumulator needing to be replaced, but will go a long way to help keeping a safe vehicle on the road.

Thanks for the guidance. I will "run the codes" when I get a momment. I seem to recall that soemone was going to post all the code descriptions. Any idea if this has been done anyone?