ol' yeller

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Everything posted by ol' yeller

  1. I remember seeing this car on Ebay a few years ago. If my memory is correct (it often isn't) I seem to remember the owner was asking around $35K for it. Other than that, I got nothing.
  2. Here is a 1990 rebuilt titled, rusty, clearcoat peeling, over 100K miles, worn door paneled, coupe that could be yours for only $4,700! NOT MINE nor would it ever be. Or you could get this one from the same folks, only a couple years older with a few more miles but with a clear title for only about a grand more. Please disregard the huge dent in the nose.
  3. Damn, I hate it when I rely on my aged memory and it lets me down. Kevin is right, they are 4X10. I am by no means an audiophile but I really do like how my new stereo and speakers turned out. Also I would take an educated guess that the speaker wires traveled up one of the wiring channels under one of the seats. That would put them closest to the console where they come out at the radio.
  4. Make that, "We're more or less, all in the same Buick here".
  5. Software upgrade to stymie The North Korean Hackers how have been bombarding this site the last week or so. They also changed the URL
  6. No need to give up on a vert. They are out there and available for well under Select 60 prices. You should be able to pick up a nice vert, well maintained for between $5-$7K. Your original question was about collectibility. This thread has given you a good dose of reality when it comes to these cars that we love. They are great cars but don't expect to quietly discover an appreciating asset that everyone overlooked. This is actually true of many collectible cars. Every one I have owned I paid a low amount for purchase, spent more than I should have fixing it up, and sold it for a loss, sometimes for a significant loss. But, when you factor in the fun of resurrecting a piece of automotive history, gaining the appreciation of like minded folks for your skills, and sheer joy in driving a classic car, it is all worth it in the end.
  7. Sure looks like a convertible to me
  8. Also as a point of clarification, what I installed were Kicker 4X12 replacement speakers, not an Amp like what Dave is talking about.
  9. HERE is the link to where the wire colors are posted. It is another discussion on this forum from a few years ago.
  10. I was the editor for our Chapter's monthly newsletter. I agree that everyone likes to see their car, their name, in something published. When I held that position I instituted a feature called "Car of The Month". I came out to the owner's garage and photographed their car and interviewed them about their ownership for the article. In the beginning I had to feature my own cars for a couple of months running before everyone got on board. As our membership was around 60 or so and many had multiple cars, I was able to run the feature the whole time I was editor. It was also a great way to greet new members and to make them feel welcome and included. That was back when the internet was in its infancy. Probably only half of our members had computers let alone access to the internet. Nowadays, I'd bet that most, if not all, do have Internet. For me, I don't have too much interest in the article because I have already read it here. Others may have differing opinions.
  11. HERE is a link to the speakers at Ronnie's Reatta Store which is where I ordered the speakers through Amazon. I went with 2 way Alpine speakers to replace the ones in the door rather than the Infinity ones on Ronnie's website. I figured they would be better suited to my Alpine unit and I wasn't disappointed. My door speakers were falling apart while the rears were in pretty good shape, or so I thought. I was blown away at how much nicer everything sounded with the new setup. I was going to add an amp but now I see no need for it. I am babysitting my grandson today but if I get time later today, I'll dig out the wiring diagrams and let you know the color codes for the wires.
  12. I bought Kickers on Amazon for the rear speakers. They sound amazing. I also bought the foam buckets they sit in. As they are 4x12 they aren't the best type for sound. They did just bolt right in and weren't too expensive. My wiring wasn't hacked up at all and I went with a Metra adapter to keep it from becoming hacked. I also replaced the radio with an Alpine unit. The new radio and the adapter both came with wiring diagrams and colors.
  13. Sorry, it was a joke. Rumors of Polo Green '91 convertibles have fueled debate here for years. If you ever do find one you could be the one to end the debate and it would be a very rare Reatta indeed.
  14. Lots of answers already written here on the forum. It is hard to say because it depends upon what you are looking for. If you want a convertible, you are looking at 90 and 91 only and very few 91's. If you like the touch screen you are looking at 88 and 89 only. If you don't want the Teves ABS system, you are looking at 91 only. If you want a driver's side airbag you are back at 90 and 91. There were very few sunroof coupes made in 88. There isn't really a best year for Reattas as all years had their pluses and detractions. Things to consider when buying are generally condition related. If the AC "Needs a recharge" figure on spending just over a grand to convert to R134a along with a compressor drier, orifice tube and likely a condensor. Struts will run you a grand as well as the mounts and the struts generally have to be replaced at this point in time. ABS issues are expensive and parts are hard to find so I'd walk from a car with ABS problems. Windshields are also somewhat scarce and you can spend up to $2K on one when you find it. If you live in the rust belt or are considering a car from there, check the cradle bushings as they deteriorate and are hard to find as are front brake ABS leads. On the plus side, the 3800 is pretty much bulletproof. The transmissions hold up well for 150K miles or so. The leather interiors also hold up well, all except the steering wheels. You will own a car that attracts comments and stares as few are aware that Buick actually made a hand built 2 seat sports car. Collectibility is easy. You want a Select 60 convertible with very low miles, or a Polo Green '91 convertible . Actually the '91's are probably the most collectible given their low production numbers and the fact that they were the end of the line. Chances of snagging one for a low price are not good as I think their appreciation/value is at a peak right now. I have seen a few '88 coupes get better money if they have all the options as well as suede bolsters and low mileage. That said, the only thing a Reatta will do for your eventual retirement fund is to insure that you will have to gain an appreciation for beans and franks. They are NOT a reliable investment now or probably well into the future. 1990 is the year when most Reatta's were produced so they are probably at the bottom of the future collectible chain. I had another thought. Go to the sub forum Reatta For Sale and click on the heading, Selling Your Reatta. That list of things we expect to see here when someone is selling their Reatta will also give you a great idea of what to look for when buying one as well.
  15. That's pretty close to my experience although us guys with 90's have to hand calculate as we have no MPG readout. I get 18-20 on most days being short trips around town. I have seen 30 several times when we go to the Buick Show in Portland.
  16. I have always been interested in cars and how they worked. As a young man in the 7th grade I wrote a descriptive essay about the joy of making/fixing something with your hands. I thought I nailed the assignment but I got a C+. My teacher felt I should aim higher. As I grew my passion grew too. At 15 I was repairing my brother's '58 TR3 on an almost weekly basis. I got lots of encouragement from my next door neighbor who also happened to be my girlfriend's Dad. He helped me when I blew the engine in my '65 Skylark convertible. He also told me how to find and fix the damage when I wrecked the front end. My Dad was a Lawyer and while he enjoyed the fruits of my labors with his cars he didn't encourage me much to develop my talents. When I would work on his car he generally would come out at some point and begin questioning me like a known perjurer about what I was doing. I think he just liked to argue. Family concerns, wife, kids, etc. took over and while I always did my own work and I rebuilt several cars and trucks into running reliable vehicles, I never had the opportunity to restore a car which I always desired to do. When I hit my 40's I finally had enough money and tools to attempt a restoration. I found a rusty '64 Skylark convertible that needed everything. I managed a frame off restoration of the engine, drivetrain, suspension, and chassis. The bodywork wasn't panning out the way I had hoped so once the body was back on the frame, all the sheet metal repaired, I sold it as a rolling project for a lot less than I had into it. I don't know what ever happened to that car. It wound up in Yakima, WA. Fast forward 10 years and I began again, this time with a '65 Skylark 2 door hardtop. I was determined to complete this project. I was finally at that point in my life where I had the time, the money and the place to do it properly. The car was OK to begin with but I did an every nut and bolt restoration that took me 6 months. My painter allowed me to reassemble the car at his shop if I helped him around his shop. I learned a great deal from him. The first year I had Ol' Yeller, I took it to a local Buick car show and won Most Ambitious Project. The next year when I came back to the same show it won Best in Class and Most Improved. After I finished the Skylark I did a frame off restoration of a '69 Riviera also at his shop. I transformed an ugly $300 green car into a stunning midnight blue with a white interior. It took 2 parts cars and a huge amount of money as no one made any aftermarket parts for this car back then. I laughingly refer to this car as the most expensive $300 Riviera in the world. I have since helped a buddy and replaced a frame on a '65 Skylark 4 door project of mine that he now owns. I also restored a '71 Beetle for my daughter and '71 Karmann Ghia for me. My point is that you have to love doing your own work and a good set of tools is a great investment. The rest comes from learning from your mistakes and diagnosing things properly. When I was young I had to learn to repair my cars because I couldn't afford to take them to a mechanic. Need a head gasket? Go look it up in the Chilton's and get busy is how I learned. Now I am in my 60's and I still do a lot of my own work but now it is because I don't trust others to do the work correctly.
  17. That might be hard to come by. You might want to look for an FM converter that bolts on under the dash which is period correct, (Not 400 point judged correct) as they are still pretty easy to find at swap meets, fairly reasonable and doesn't hack up the dash like an aftermarket radio might.
  18. Backing shouldn't be an issue where we usually camp. Electric motors on the stabilizers will run another $400 and I still would have to struggle with the heavy sway bars and hitch. Having an onboard genny also allows for stopping in places without hook-ups, push a button and instant electricity. My Class C also eliminates the requirement of having a larger tow vehicle and all that entails (maintenance, insurance, storage, etc.). Using my Reatta as a toad keeps my inventory at 3 vehicles.
  19. I hear ya Padgett. Our 2 previous RVs were trailers that I pulled with my '99 F250. It was great to have a vehicle after camp was set up and I loved my old pick-up. Serious health issues led me to sell the truck and trailer 4 years ago, but the wanderlust of camping was never lost. Fortunately I have recovered enough to once again enjoy the great outdoors but I had to compromise on my method. The RV is much easier to set-up at camp and easier to drive, even with a toad. I'm just grateful that I can still get out and see what this great country has to offer. Thanks to all who responded. I figured someone here would be able to answer my question.
  20. My RV has a rear view camera that can be set to stay on continuously. I am looking at a dolly available locally new that has surge brakes and stowable ramps. It also has a pivoting deck. If it weighs in at less than 1500 pounds (I think it is well under 500#) the combined weight of both should be well below the RV's capabilities. My last worry now is for my beloved convertible to suffer the slings and arrows from the indignity of being towed behind the RV. I have read elsewhere that being up on a dolly is better for the toad than 4 down as the dirt and stuff gets flung at the undercarriage rather than at the shiney stuff. Our trips tend to be under 150 miles each way and having a way to do sightseeing or just get to the store would be great.
  21. I've been considering this for awhile. First thought was to buy a 4 down towable car to pull behind our RV. After discovering the costs for the new car, the tow bar, the frame attachments, and a braking system I think a tow dolly would be a lot less. The Reatta is a heavy car but within the limits of my E450 RV. Putting the front drive wheels on the dolly should work. I was just wondering if the long overhang in front of the front wheels could be an issue, especially when turning. It seems some have towed on a dolly successfully. I may rent one to try it out before buying one. I think putting it up on a dolly would also cut down on rock damage.
  22. The heading says it all. I am considering towing my '90 Convertible behind my RV. I wonder if the long front overhang of the Reatta causes problems on a tow dolly.
  23. I think DANIEL as well as couple of others have made a conversion to a manual 5 speed. I would love to have a 5 speed manual in my convertible if I could make it look like it was originally made that way.