ol' yeller

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Everything posted by ol' yeller

  1. Mailed mine today. Hopefully it gets there in time.
  2. My other obsession (besides Grandkids) is camping in our RV. I have a 2008 Winnie Aspect 26A Class C. We have been RVing for the last 13 years with a couple year hiatus when my heart attacked me and sidelined me for awhile. Now that I am feeling better and have reached a truce with my heart, we have started using our RV more and more. My next purchase will probably be something I can tow 4 down behind the RV. It will also have to be different and have a following on the interwebz like the Reattas. I haven't decided what that will be but in the running now are Ranger 4X4s or maybe a Beetle convertible. I am proud to be part of this group. I have paid for my admittance 3 times which shows that maybe I'm not as bright as I thought I was, LOL. I'll troll through here from time to time. My car isn't going anywhere for at least the next few weeks so maybe something else will break and I'll have to ask you guys about it. NO, NO, NO, don't say that or even think it.
  3. That's what I thought Padgett. My friend just doesn't have a FSM and therefore doesn't feel comfortable using the self diagnostics. He is the person who bought my convertible and with it comes a FSM and a friend (me) who knows how to check for both current and history codes. I will show him how to use the self diagnostics and he will see how helpful it is. I was just like him on my Maui Blue coupe a few years ago and then you guys helped me understand the diagnostics and how to read what it was telling me. It makes repairs easier, but not easy. It made me realize how special these cars were as they were made before computers became integrated in a vehicle's operation.
  4. It is with mixed emotion that I report to you, my Reatta brothers, that I sold my '90 Roadster today. I am pleased that I sold it to a friend in the BCA local chapter that also happens to be my Hagerty agent. I know he will give the car great care and keep it from the evil clutches of the wrecking yards. I have learned a lot over the years from you folks and I also tried to give back as much as I could. I still love hearing you talk about reprogramming the ECMs or other systems that control our Reattas and how you do that. It is like listening to 2 French girls conversing. I have no idea what they are saying but I could sit and listen all day. This Reatta was my third one but I enjoyed it more than the other 2 combined. I think it will probably be my last one. My buddy has some business to attend to but he will be completing the deal in a few weeks hopefully. I'll still hang around and contribute if I can but I wanted say "Thank You" to all the great folks here. Your mission is noble and you have great fun accomplishing it. Please keep the fire burning. Greg
  5. I have a buddy with a 1990 Reatta. He has an intermittent CEL. He said he took it to a trusted shop and they couldn't find a code. After questioning he said that they plugged a scanner into the ADL port and didn't see any codes. Is it possible that the scanner couldn't read the code? I know that the OBD1 is pretty primitive compared to what today's mechanics are used to. I explained to him how to use the self diagnostics but he just seemed leery of doing it even after I reassured him he couldn't screw it up. He says the car runs fine. I told him to try and replace the O2 sensor and see if it goes away which he seemed to be willing to do. It probably needs replacement anyways and they aren't going to break the bank.
  6. Padgett, I spent a couple hours at 2 different FLAPS going through books of vacuum connections and came up dry. I don't think you can get them new anymore anywhere. Fortunately they are still plentiful in the wrecking yards. I just drilled mine out and superglued in a straight vacuum line connector as a temporary fix while I waited for Jim Finn to send a couple of them to me.
  7. Here is the Reatta form: Year: 1990 Convertible Mileage:107,000 Considered Correct? Yes Location: Redmond, WA, east of Seattle VIN: 1G4EC33COLB906416 Title: Clear Any Accident History? None Asking Price: $7,000 Willing to take trade No Exterior Color: White Interior Color: Garnet, Maroon Paint Original? Yes Paint Condition? Excellent Belt & Bumper Molding Color: Black Body Dents: None Body Rust: None Windshield Chipped or Cracked? No Vent Glass Intact? Yes Rubber surround molding for windshield condition? Excellent Out Side Mirrors Intact? Yes Headlight Motors Function Correctly? Yes, mechanisms were rebuilt with Kingsley parts Tail Light Lens: Pretty clear, some minute cracks, it polished up nicely Convertible Top Material: Vinyl Convertible Top Color? White Convertible Top Condition? Very Good Please describe any flaws or problems with the convertible top. It has one small crack about 1/16” long where installer didn’t pad correctly. It is taped and padded on the inside, does not leak and hasn’t grown in length. It is barely noticeable. The top is 3 years old. Interior Original? Yes 16 Way Seats? No Seat Condition? Very good to excellent. No cracks, rips, tears or color wear Drivers interior door panel condition? Very good to excellent. No cracks, rips, tears or color wear. There is some minor alligatoring on the pad Passengers interior door panel condition? Same minus the alligatoring Center console top armrest condition? Excellent Door weather stripping condition? Very good Headliner Condition? Excellent Carpet Condition? Very good, minor fading, Hey it’s a convertible! Original Floor Mats: Yes, plus a set of driver mats Floor Mat Condition: Very good Condition of Steering Wheel Leather: Excellent for a Reatta. There is some wear of the color but no rips cuts or tears Functional Keyless Entry? Yes Both Remotes? Yes, I also bought 2 remotes from Ronnie, one I programmed so as to not kill the originals with daily use. Problems with Electronic Dash items? None, everything functions perfectly Power Windows Work Correctly? Yes, the tracks and slides were just lubed a few months ago Power Seats Work Correctly? Yes Power Door Locks Work Correctly? Yes Power Antenna Work Correctly? Yes Original Sound System? No, but original is included in sale. If desired, I’ll put it back in. Factory CD Player? (90-91 only) Yes but not working Sound System Fully Functional? Yes, see next question Aftermarket Sound System Equipment? Yes If Y describe: Alpine AM/FM/single CD player with Bluetooth and USB port, rear speakers were replaced with Kickers, fronts (door) were replaced with Apline 2 way speakers. Stereo upgrade was completed a few months ago. Total cost for the equipment was just under $500. It sounds awesome, even with the top down. A/C Functional? Yes, but If N describe problem: It occasionally will turn on a service AC light. Trouble code points to a low pressure switch which I have replaced to no avail. The system works great even when the light comes on. I haven’t been inclined to chase this further because it works and I seldom use the AC in a convertible. Has the A/C been converted from R12 to R134A? Yes, 2 years ago. Compressor, condenser, drier, orifice tube and all O-rings changed to R134A compatible. Does the suspension require any attention? No, new Monroe struts and mounts all around in the last 2 years Tire Brand: See below Remaining Tread: 75% Are All Tires Matched? No, Toyo Eclipse in front, Federal Formozas in the rear. Same size all around. Factory Wheels? Yes Factory Wheel Center Caps Condition: Mostly excellent to very good. No dents, just a couple have some minor peeling of the clearcoat Any Brake Components Replaced? Yes If Y describe the part(s) replaced and when? New rotors and pads in front last year, Rears still had great pad left Last Time Brake System Was Flushed? 2 years ago, about 6,000 miles Original Engine? Yes Original Engine Rebuilt? No Does Engine require attention? Yes, Minor issue, see next question If Y what needs to be done. The oil pressure sensor needs to be replaced. One is included in the sale. I can change it for you if you want prior to sale. It is just one of those things I never got around to. When was last tune up? 3,000 miles ago. Replaced plugs (with AC Delco), wires, ICM and coils (Motorola), O2 sensor Does the engine, cooling system, power steering, or brake system leak any fluids? Not a drop. How often do you change the oil? Every 3-5K miles Original Transmission? Yes Original Transmission Rebuilt? No Does Transmission require attention? No When was last Transmission Service? Last year I replaced the pan gasket due to a leak. At that time I had system drained, flushed and refilled along with a new AC Delco filter. It shifts like new. Any Transmission Leaks? None Have CV joints been replaced? No I have most if not all receipts for this vehicle's service history since new including the purchase papers from the original owner. Does the car have the owners manual portfolio? Yes For 90/91 Reattas only, does the owners manual portfolio contain: Craftsmen?s Log Yes Tire gauge Yes Flashlight Yes Buick Road Atlas Yes The Owner’s Portfolio was put on a shelf and never opened by original owner. It is very complete and rare to find. In General, What items need attention? Nothing My Reatta Drives: Like a magnificent stallion at the head of the herd I am the second owner of this Reatta. I have owned this Reatta for 3 Years and 7Months. Contact me via PM here or email me at 4drs4ever@gmail.com My Reatta has a special story that probably doesn’t add to the value but should be shared. This is a true 2 owner car. The original owner was a wealthy car collector well known here in the Pacific Northwest. He bought the car as a nice day driver for his wife. She loved the car. It was always stored inside a garage and it shows. When they bought the car new it did have some mileage on it as it was originally donated by Buick to be a pace car for the Great American Race in 1990. The dealership gave the purchaser the decals that were used in the race all rolled up in a tube which they passed on to me. I had one of the decals mounted on a sign to display with the car at car shows. The other is still in the tube. The original owner is well known for not selling any cars he collected and I was fortunate to pry this one from his grasp. If you are interested I would be happy to share that that story with you. This car has spent its entire life, garaged in the Pacific Northwest. There is absolutely no rust anywhere. The cradle bushings and ABS leads are in great shape as the car was seldom driven in winter conditions. This car was my 3rd Reatta and the best one so far. When the BCA held their National in 2014 in Portland Oregon, I entered my car in the 400 point judging. She scored 387 points out of 400 bringing home a Gold Award her first time out. I have since changed the dash panel and console to a wood grained one from a Riviera as I like that look better. I have kept the originals and they will go with the sale if desired. I can also reinstall them if the buyer desires it. I attempted to sell my car a year ago but found that I couldn’t go through with the sale. We had agreed upon price but no money had changed hands. Things have changed and I am very ready to part with the car now. There are cheaper convertible Reattas out there and there are much more expensive ones out there as well. This car is a well sorted car, one you could just use to cruise as is with no issues. The cheaper ones seldom have had the maintenance done that these cars require when they approach the 100K miles mark as this one has had. The more expensive ones typically are low mileage garage queens. I am asking $7,000 which is a fair price for this caliber of a Reatta. I will assist in loading the car onto the carrier of your choice at your expense but if you have time, I highly recommend driving it to its new home.
  8. I have a ton more pictures and they can be provided upon request. I just didn't want to clutter things up here too much.
  9. Bill, the reason this is happening is most likely because you are missing the insulating plate that goes between the carb and manifold.
  10. You're welcome Deano. It is actually held in the middle of downtown Puyallup where the old Cornforth Campbell dealership was originally. It is held in conjunction with Meeker Days so there is plenty to do for the whole family as well. The show usually has anywhere from 100 up to 175 Buicks of all years. It will be on June 18th. If you are interested, our local chapter is a very fun group. They try to arrange at least one Buick driving event per month. No pressure, I just thought I'd mention it. If you come to the show, ask for me at the booth and say hello, or I'll probably be hanging out next to my white '90 roadster. Greg
  11. Welcome to the forum! I too live in the Great Northwet, a few miles from you in Redmond. I'd be happy to share whatever knowledge I have gained about these great cars if you wish. PM me for my contact info. The local Buick Club of America chapter holds its annual All Buick car show in Puyallup in late June. It is a good opportunity to meet up with other Buick and Reatta owners and compare notes. You car doesn't have to be a show car to attend. I have brought some pretty rattty cars in the past and still had a great time. To attend and even show your car, you don't have to be a member and if you don't want to have your car peer judged you can enter it as Display Only. If you are interested, I can send you more information. I had my injectors cleaned at the Federal Way DR Injector store on a previous Reatta. I was amazed at the improved performance too. I was also surprised at how easy it was. I pulled the injectors and dropped them off. A day or so later and they were as good as new. Ronnie's site is a great resource. I visit there daily. Greg
  12. Mine goes to 12:00. When it goes to one bar above 12:00 the second fan comes on and lowers it to 12:00 or 1 bar under. I recently did replace my radiator, hoses and thermostat because of it getting too warm. The original owner never changed the coolant and when I purchased my car the coolant was rusty. I had to replace a couple of soft plugs when I first got the car. I have drained and flushed my system several times since then.
  13. First thing I did Dave, when they arrived was to put them in my car in place of the originals and test them. The only one I didn't test was the AC/Heater controls because I just didn't want to bother pulling the dash apart. You bring up a good point and it was probably ringing in my ears when I did the tests as I'm sure I heard it somewhere before. Of course the ABS system would be too much work to test but there enough components in the score to make it worthwhile for the money just to have on hand. I did notice the picture of the car it was pulled from had some damage on the front so it could be something has failed. I figured for $90 it was worth the gamble.
  14. Thanks guys! I will be careful. I couldn't believe that it had such a low Buy it Now. Now with my Hydac Accumulator and if this is in good working condition, I will have no fear of future braking issues. Now if can only score some nice spare ABS leads cheap... Ebay has been good to me lately. I bought a spare ECM for $10, a spare ABS control module for $10, a spare heater/ac switch panel for $10, a PATS training VHS and book for GM techs for $15, and now the ABS pump assembly for $90. All this and I didn't even get my hands dirty at the local Pick and Pull.
  15. I just found and won a complete ABS system (stuff mounted on firewall) for a 90 Reatta on Ebay for only $90. At that price I just couldn't pass it up. Mine is still working with no issues but I have a question. How do I best store this for future use? It will be kept in my non heated but dry and somewhat warm garage. I'd like it not to deteriorate as it sits waiting for me to use it. Any advice would be welcome.
  16. Interesting car. It has the '88 glovebox but a '90 dash/CD player. The lighter is evidently aftermarket. Eliminating the CHMSL makes little sense to me. They also eliminated the airbag steering wheel along with the sunburst medallion on the hood. This was either a pinstripe delete car or more likely a repaint. The mods make it interesting but IMHO it devalues the car.
  17. My top had been down since the 1st of April but yesterday the weather looked a lot more like April in the Great Pacific Northwet.
  18. I took my 90 convertible on a 200 mile trip with our local chapter of the BCA for the Spring "Mystery Tour". The only downside was the weather didn't accommodate top down driving.
  19. The missing buttons can be purchased from Legendary Interiors.
  20. Other thoughts. It could be the phonetic coating on the cam timing gear broke up and fell off making timing impossible. This is a common issue with original 300s. New timing sets won't have this coating. To check, rotate crankshaft and see how much slop there is before the rotor moves. A long shot is the ignition wire where it connects on the engine side of the firewall at the rear of the fusebox. If memory serves it is either a red or orange wire that has a small screw holding the connection together. If dirty or loose it could cause stalling or no start conditions.
  21. I had another thought. A weak point on these engines is the timing gear set if still original. The cam gear originally was coated ( for noise) with a phonetic (plastic) coating. Over the years the coating breaks up and falls off making timing impossible. Replacement timing sets don't have the coating so a one time replacement is all that is needed. To check this see how much slop there is when rotating the crank before the rotor moves. Another long shot is the ignition lead. It is a connection atop the engine side of the fuse box where the engine wiring harness plugs in. If memory serves, it is either a red wire or orange wire. There is a small screw holding the connection together. If loose or dirty it could cause intermittent stalling issues but you wouldn't have any spark if it isn't connecting.
  22. If your spark is weak then you have an electric problem. Either the coil is weak, the points are grounded or not gapped correctly or the condenser is bad. I read where you replaced the coil and condenser. It could also be bad plug wires, too much resistance. I'd check all the wires running both to and from the coil and distributor for continuity as well as resistance. Also make sure you have a good ground from the engine block to the firewall as this is often missing, The fact that it did run is good. You have gas to the plugs and either starting fluid or gas down the carb doesn't produce fire is why I am leaning towards spark problems, not gas or air. To eliminate the possibility of bad gas, you could run a hose from the pump to gallon can of fresh gas and see if it fires then but I think you have spark issues. As an educational aside, what you have is the Buick 300 V8. The decal on the air cleaner is actually the torque rating of the engine, not the engine size. In 1965 Buick made 2 versions of the 300 V8, the 310 version which has the 2 barrel carb or the 355 version which had a carter 4 barrel and higher compression pistons. Later in '65 they added the GS which brought the 401 Nailhead to the party and Buick also offered a V6 in the A Body in 1965.
  23. Yes it would make the car a lot more fun. In 1965 (and '66) when Buick dropped the big block engine into the A Body, they also upgraded the chassis to a boxed frame. It is the same frame they put under the convertible A Body. I do know of some folks who have done this swap without the frame change but It handles much better with a frame swap. Buick also added heavier duty springs and a beefier rear end with oversize rear bearings. Motor mounts may be a fabricating issue. I had a 430 in a 1969 Riviera (much heavier car) and it was a torque monster engine. It did a great job and while some have reported oiling issues with the 430, I had the problem addressed when I had the engine rebuilt. The 430 was the replacement for the nailhead 401 and the stepping stone to the 455. The 455 is better motor all around (my opinion) but the 430 did fine by me. I guess you and I are the only ones who threw a rod through the block on the 300 as these engines are virtually impossible to destroy. I did mine in my '65 convertible back in the 1960's when replacements were easier to come by. I had a 300 V8 4 barrel in my '65 Skylark coupe and with a nice exhaust system and a 355 gearing in the rear end, it was a cruiser with plenty of grunt. I think you would be happier and life would be easier if you could locate one of those engines and spend your money on a rear end gear change. These engines are still around and not as expensive as big blocks either to buy or to rebuild. The engine in my coupe had 140,000 miles on the lower end and was still running great when I sold it a few years ago.