ol' yeller

Great points, everyone. My question doesn't have to do with future value of the car, I am asking what is it worth now? Given that I will probably keep and drive the wheels off it, how much should I pay for it today? I haven't even contacted my friend yet about my interest because I don't want to create false hope for him. I am struggling over the salvage title. I have seen the car at a couple of club events and it looks very nice. My friend bought the car from the person who repaired the damage on speculation. Now he is dealing with a decided lack of interest. I will check out the car completely before making an offer (if I make an offer) but I wanted to get your opinions of what it is worth. I was figuring around $4-5K. Am I too high? I suspect any less and he won't want to sell. If it is a $2,500 car then it is what it is and I would pass on it as I don't want to overpay. If $4-5K buys me a similar mileage Reatta convertible without salavage title, I'd be better off looking for one of those. I love the Maui blue. Thanks.

I have an opportunity to buy a 90 Reatta Convertible from a friend. It has a "salvage" title. According to my friend the damage wasn't structural, only enough cosmetic damage to total the car. It looks very nice and it has around 90K on it. It does have a modified trunk lid from a coupe but unless you know what to look for, it isn't obvious. What should this go for? He is currently asking $8K with no takers. It happens to be my favorite color, Maui Blue with a white top. I just don't want to overpay for something that I may get burnt on when I go to sell it in the future. I owned a '90 coupe before and know what to look for in these Reattas. I want to be fair as he is a good friend but I also don't want to pay top dollar for a car with a damaged title. I am not looking to make a quick buck on a "rare" car. I know how Reattas are percieved in the marketplace. What do you think? Thanks.

Rick, Buick Specialist is no longer. The owner of Buick Specialist sold out to Buick World about 10 years ago. The new owners have essentially closed down the business except for some action on ebay from time to time. There has been much discussion on this website and other forums as to what happened and why but the bottom line is that the business is closed. Much of the inventory that wouldn't sell (over time) was sold for scrap( I weep). The select items that had good value were saved. I have heard that Gib Kranz will be selling these items on the internet but how and when, I don't know. Another one bites the dust.

A little more information would be helpful. Where is the car located? 2 door or 4 door? Engine? Thanks.

I posted this on the V8 Buick Website but I thought I'd get some good relevant input here as well. Ok, I have finally reached the age of the Buick demographic, 54 years old(despite owning Buicks since I was 16). I am at the point in my life like many of my peers when I have a little extra money in the bank and more time on my hands now that the kids are grown and gone. Is it just me or does it seem like our hobby is being taken over by the younger guys who only have the desire to go faster than their car was intended to go? It seems like us older guys (who have a ton of experience by the way) are constantly being discounted as having anything to contribute. Case in point. Today I turned on Spike TV (supposedly TV for men) to watch their Saturday AM Power Block. All the hosts I used to see, have been replaced with fresh WYOTECH graduates who are very talented but I have no desire to watch them program a microchip to make their car go faster sideways. Trucks! was a great program when Stacy David was the host but now all they do is a lift kit on a new 4X4, new tires & wheels, a free flowing exhaust kit and the obligatory chip reprogram. All on a vehicle that was built in the last 5 years. Speed TV is just as bad I used to enjoy Sam Memello and his sidekick on 2 Guys Garage but his sidekick is now anther 20 something. I watched Truck U a couple of times but I was distracted from their program as I found myself actually counting the number of times they used the term "Dude". I stopped when I reached 20 in the half hour program. Speed also runs too many racing programs and PINKS. What happened to American Muscle Car?? What happened to Overhaulin?? Here is my proposed solution. I'd like to see a channel dedicated to Men. Forget Spike, I'm, talking about grown men. I'm sure they could find plenty of sponsors (Flowmax!?!). No Ultimate Fighting, no 20 year old girls showing way too much skin (well maybe I'm flexible on that one) just car programming that we Boomers would enjoy. If you are a non Boomer and still reading this, don't get all bent, you can have all the stuff that is out there now, I just think the industry is missing a big market. What do my fellow Boomers think? What programming would you like to see on the OG (Old Guy) Network? __________________ I am not a mechanic, although I do play one in my garage.

This guy is notorious on ebay. Usually he has listings for high dollar cars like '53-4 skylarks for $9,800 Buy It Now. However you have to contact him off ebay to buy it now as there is no ebay buy it now option. He will direct you to a spoofed site that looks like ebay and it will prompt you to enter your user ID and password. Now he has stolen your ID, your password and your feedbacks. He uses these to list these cars on ebay. The pictures he has stolen from previous auctions. When you email him, he tells you the car is in storage and unavailable for inspection and he is recently just out of the country. He has set up spoofed sites for a shipping company that is complete with misspellings. He spins a tale that he just was relocated out of the country and he and his poor family found the 1948 Roadmaster convertible inaapropriate for use in his new country. What is laughable is when you pull his other auctions, generally you find he has 15-30 high dollar auctions all going at the same time. His ads are generally easy to spot. They are usually at the top of the page and have all the ebay listing options as, after all, he isn't paying for it. He usually has a reason for you to contact him at a free email address - gmail.com or hotmail.com etc. to be preapproved. He generally offers free shipping to anywhere and a money back guarantee. What he is looking for is someone who is gullible and has a touch of greed in their soul to take advantage of this poor unfortunate. It must work as I have been working to erradicate him from ebay for about 2 years now. I report every auction to ebay security as soon as it pops up and most of the time ebay is pretty good at pulling it down. Sometimes, I have to report it a couple of times before it gets removed. If we all do this, hopefully he will leave ebay and go find an easier way to make a buck. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

Without getting into the backbiting, I'd like to state my ebay experience. I have bought 1 car (90 Reatta) and sold 1 car (69 Riviera)and too many parts to mention. I had the Reatta inspected by the local Buick dealer at a cost (mine) of around $150 and received a detailed report. I asked the seller prior to bidding several questions as well as if he would take the car to the dealer, if I was winning bid and, if I found it unacceptable, cancel the sale. Had he not agreed, I wouldn't have bid. The car was not as nice as I expected but certainly worth what I paid for it. I sent him a deposit $500 (that I could afford to lose if things went very bad), flew in, paid the balance, after inspecting the car, and drove it home. On the other hand, I was amazed how many people bid on my Riviera without asking a single question. It sold for over $14,000 and several bidders had bid close to that and never asked a question. The winner did ask several questions and he got a bargain as I had well over $25K into the car and it showed. He mailed a deposit, flew in and drove the car home, happy. My point is this, ebay is what it is, a place to buy and sell. You still have to protect yourself as you would in any venue, as a buyer or a seller. The are bad people out there who want your money or possesions wihout having to work for it. They are on ebay, Craig's List, in your local newspaper wanted ads, in the Auto Trader and at the local used car lot. If you are a trusting soul, ebay (or any of these places) is probably not for you. There are many salt of the earth people on ebay (as well on some used car lots) but you have to make sure you are dealing with one of them. Ebay has provided to me the opportunity to buy impossible to find stuff to help me in my old car hobby. Sometimes I have paid a lot more than I wanted to but at least I have the part. I have taken a chance or two on a new seller if he had something I really needed, but I always asked a lot of questions and for pictures. If I didn't get the right answers, I passed on it. In 5 years of trading on ebay, I have never been stiffed or supremely dissapointed in my purchases.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: John Chapman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We're in violent agreement on this issue.</div></div> I like that! Greg

My concern with the kit, especially a low priced one, is the quality of the parts. When it comes to your brakes, it is not the time to sacrifice safety for a few dollars. When I upgraded my brakes on my '65 Skylark to discs, I went the used route as it was 8 years ago and no one made a kit. While I got the original '72 brake booster, master cylinder, rotors, calipers, spindles, backing plates, and proportioning valve, I only used the proportioning valve, rotors (turned), backing plates, spindles and booster. I bought new OEM or aftermarket calipers, master cylinder, hoses, lines, and, of course, pads. I also rest easy knowing that the parts I installed were engineered for my car, or at least one very similar. Kits may be a good way to go but I'd check out the quality and engineering very carefully before I'd put them on my car.

OK, how about $100 plus shipping? If no takers, I guess I'll just stick them back in storage.

New in box. Pistons and pins only, no connecting rods. 060 Zollner. These are for the high compression 300 V8 which has a 355 sticker on the air cleaner. I decided to rebuild using low compression pistons. I bought on ebay for $125. I'm willing to pass along my good fortune, $125 plus shipping. Questions?? Interesting trades for '65 Skylark parts considered.

You can buy a very inexpensive vacuum pump at most any parts house. They come with a reservoir and piping. Make sure the master cylinder is full, attach to the closest wheel cylinder and draw fluid until no bubbles appear, keeping a close eye on the master so you don't drain it. Then go on to the next wheel. I had to discover something else as my wife has informed me she will no longer help me bleed the brakes.

I didn't mean to hijack this thread into a discussion about my former employer. I was just pointing out that when discussing a topic, posters should keep the discussion civil. There was no need to inject the negative stereotypical reference to make the point. Just as political or other invectives should not be used unless you don't care if you offend someone. That said and getting back on topic, I have had nothing but positive dealings with CARS over the years. My good car buddy has had a bad experience with them. I will order from them when I have to and if I can get it somewhere else, I'll probably do that. That is how the American free enterprise system works.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Matt Harwood</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Their customer service techniques may have been learned from Ma Bell before the phone monopoly was broken up ("We're the phone company--<span style="font-style: italic">we don't have to care!</span> ), </div></div> Matt, I am a proud retired phone company guy and I don't appreciate anyone mailigning the company I used to work for nor the fellow employees with whom I worked shoulder to shoulder providing outstanding customer service over my 28 years of service. For many years I had to forgo my Thankgiving day feast to climb poles in the rain just so you could call your Grandma. Be careful when you gore somebody's Ox. You never know who you might offend!

Read the replies to post about 5-6 below this one titled,"Which Edelbrock Carb? for 401." Edelbrocks are probably good on some GM car but not Buicks. They prefer OEM.

My experience with Edelbrock carbs isn't good. My experience is with a '65 Skylark 300 and a '69 Riviera. The linkage has to be cobbled together and both had to have work done to get them to run smoothly. The floats sometimes stick as well when shipped. I have found Daytona Auto Parts in Datona FL to do an excellent job of rebuilding my carbs to like new specs. They run right out of the box and look terrific. They completely rebuild the carb including new shaft bushings if required. They are on the web but I don't have their website address handy. I'm sure a quick Google search would locate their web address. They aren't cheap (neither is the Edelbrock) and turn-around time can be long in show season but they deliver what they say when they say they will. I have recommended them to several Buick buddies and they all were very pleased with them. I think this would make you happier in the long run. I'm sure Edelbrock carbs are fine for some cars (Chevy's ?) but Buicks need OEM. JMHO

I am currently trying to make 2 damaged '65 Skylark 4 doors into 1 good one. Don't question why, I'm just crazy that way. While this will not be a Barrett Jackson show car, it will be a nice daily driver. I have a couple of choices for propulsion and I thought I'd ask a few questions here to help me make my mind up what to do. I have both a good 300 with the 2 barrel Rochester 2GC carb (Wildcat 310) and the high compression 300 with a Carter AFB 4 barrel carb (Wildcat 355). While Buicks are not know for fuel economy, I want to set this one up to be as economical as possible. I have the high compression with 4 barrel in my '65 2 door and am very familiar with premium fuel and the pinging that comes when you get on it due to today's poor quality fuel. I am thinking of putting the 4 barrel AFB on the 2 barrel engine. With the lower compression, it should run on regular. Given the smaller primaries on the AFB vs the Rochester 2GC, if I stay out of the secondaries, I should get slightly better mileage. Of course all this is theory. I would like to hear from someone who has done this swap and what real world experience is. I'd also like to know if the lower compression engine is overcarbed with the AFB and did you change jet sizes and to what. Thanks. Greg

Sorry Lew, Your only choice is to find good used ones or make your own if you have the ability. Parts vendors don't love these old Buicks as much as we do. Greg

I think most any good parts house can set you up or even a hardware store as it is just a plumbing fitting made in brass.

Frank, Maybe I should have caveated my advice. It has been about 7 years since I have done one of these. When I saw your post with no responses, I thought I should tell you my experiences but they are from memory (of someone over 50!) I will be doing at least 2 more in the next couple of weeks as I just bought a '65 Skylark 4 door project to be used as a driver. It has an original 4 bbl motor but I have 2 good used 2 bbl motors and given the price of premium fuel nowadays, I think the conversion would be good in a driver. If I want to go fast, I do have a HP 4 bbl in my '65 2 door Hdtp. Of course I'll keep the original motor in case I decide in the future to change it back. Good luck on your project. Greg

I can't recommend a specific kit. The parts you are looking for are available at any auto parts house that knows how to look up 1965 buicks (that actually eliminates most of them). The original timing set came with a phoenelic coating on the cam gear to keep down the noise of the gears and chain. This poor design only lasts about 120,000 miles or 40 years whichever comes first. If yours is original, you will have to fish the pieces of the coating out of your oil sump. I doubt you can even buy replacement sets with the phoenelic coating anymore. It's as good of a reason as any to drop the oil pan, clean out the sump, clean the pick-up tube screen and install a new oil pan gasket. The oil pump rebuild kits are all pretty much the same too. Check the plate on which the gears ride. If yours is worn, replacement plates are available. It fits between the gears and the old cover and comes with longer screws to hold it all together. In the chassis manual there is a good description on how to check gear clearances of the pump. Unfortunately if the gears have worn into the timing cover case, the only solution is replacement of the timing chain cover. They are moderately difficult to find and fairly expensive. If previous owners were good about oil changes and the engine doesn't have a ton of miles, you're probably OK. As long as you are taking this all apart, now is a great time to install a new water pump too. I would stay away from rebuilt water pumps, especially considering the minor cost savings. Greg

Later model 14" Buick Rally wheels will work. Also if you are on the west coast, Les Schawb Tire Company sells new wheels for a very reasonable cost. Just make sure you get the 14" wheels for a '72 Skylark. I'm sure other tire stores carry or have access to wheels that will work. If you only change the fronts to clear the calipers, be sure your spare tire/wheel will be of the larger 14" size too. Greg

I tried posting this question over at the V8 Buick website but only got lookers. A friend of mine has found a compound to fill the cracks that every '65 Skylark steering wheel develops over the years. It fills very well, dries very hard, and sands to a smooth surface. Only time will tell if the repair will hold up to use and heat/cold over time. As this one is going in my restored '65 it won't see the extremes that the original one did. Anyway, with the cracks repaired we are now looking for a good way to paint the wheel so that it will hold up to use and look like the original finish. WE ARE NOT PAINTERS, obviously. We tried several different rattle cans but the finish was unsatisfactory. Does anyone know what to use and how to apply it? If we can get satisfactory results we both would like to reinstall the original wheels and sell our very nice 'comfort grip" wheels to the later model guys for a fortune. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Greg

Update, I guess I only have one book in slightly damaged condition. I must have sold the other and forgot. I hate getting old but I maintain that it is immensly better to be over the hill than under it! Any ideas on what it's worth? Thanks. Greg

Any interest? These are the books that the Buick Dealership had in the rack on the desk to look up part numbers and the illustrations that show various assemblies. Both books are in very good condition, one cover has some minor water damage but the contents are great. The other is in very good condition. I am asking for $50 each, the better condition one going to the first purchaser with the money. Please let me know if I am out of line on my price. I paid considerably more for these on Ebay with competitive bidding so I don't think I am too far out of line. If they don't sell here, I am putting them up on ebay. Thought I'd give you folks first shot. email me @ gmpowersfam@comcast.net if interested. Pics provided upon request. Greg