ol' yeller

I think he is gone but my offer still stands. I'd love to go look at a 1,000 mile Reatta. I have owned 2 90's and in my last search I do know what to look for when buying one of these. Mine is a Maui Blue '90 sunroof coupe with 146,000 miles on it. It is an excellent car despite the miles it has. If someone is seriously considering either of the cars he is selling I'd be happy to look at them, take pictures and give you my impressions. I seriously don't think the OP is a scammer. I agree that this is a poor forum to buy or sell a Reatta as most of us here already own at least one of these cars. We also know the problems and weak points of these cars and typically won't be fooled by a fast description and no mention of price. There are some still out there who may have more desire than knowledge and will overpay the going market price for the Reatta but typically they aren't found here. We have bought and sold these cars and have been on the receiving end of the reality of where they are in the collector car appreciation curve. I was surprised at the attitude that was displayed at a new poster in our forum. I was gone for several years after I sold my last Reatta as I found the willingness to help and the knowledge level of these complex cars astounding. I am willing to overlook the attitude displayed by the more senior of the respondits here as I have knowledge of their contributions to the appreciation of all things Reattta in the past. I suspect the OP has been lost as he doesn't have the same background as many of us who have been here awhile. My offer to help still stands. Greg

I live near Seattle. If anyone is interested I'd be happy to go look at them and take pictures. I agree with Barney though. If someone wishes to sell here they need fill out the questionaire in the "For Sale" section. People here are pretty savvy about the Reattas and will ask all those questions anyways prior to buying including the "How much?" question.

As most of you here, I love old cars. My addiction of choice are the 60's cars. I am one of the guilty ones who have sacrificed many less desirable cars to rebuild a convertible or 2 door hardtop. In my defense, all of the cars I have cut up and parted out were pretty much gone beyond redemption. If I was the type to fall in love with a Mustang, a Chevelle or a VW Beetle all I'd need was a title as pretty much everything else is available from the aftermarket. Alas my head was turned by Buicks. I some ways I am lucky as many parts for my '65 Skylarks are available in the aftermarket but no where as many if it were a '65 Chevelle. I once restored a '69 Riviera. There was literally nothing available in the aftermarket. I parted out 3 cars to make one as well as depleting my bank account buying up NOS parts at swap meets and eBay. I still refer to that car as the most expensive $300 car I ever owned. I finally had to sell it just to stop the bleeding. It is my understanding that it is now in Qatar where someone with deeper pockets than mine is taking care of it. As for less desirable cars. I am currently "rebuilding" a '65 Skylark 4 door. It is a "take 2 cars to make one", kind of project. I have to keep reminding myself that it is just a 4 door so don't go overboard. Why a 4 door? I have a very nice '65 2 door hardtop. If I want to run to the grocery store on a sunny summer afternoon I have to worry the entire time it is out of sight about if it will still be there when I get out, or, will it have all the parts it had when I parked it. A 4 door gives me the same happy feeling driving it as my hardtop yet I won't feel so bad if something does happen to it. From the driver's seat everything looks the same as in my hardtop. While my 4 door technically is a "frame-off", I currently have less than $2k into it counting what I paid for both cars and the new interior. It still needs a little more body work and a quicky cheap (Maaco?)paint job. I figure about another $2,500 and I'll be done. For a total investment of around $4,500 it will be a nice driver with a little class. I have no illusion however that I will get the money back out of it if I were to sell it. In the meantime I have had the pleasure of doing most of the work myself and something to show for it when it is done. My advice is to consider the lesser 4 door as a project if you can find one with styling you like. Buick made many very attractive 4 door cars over the years. As long as your expectations are set correctly and you don't get crazy throwing money at it, they can be enjoyable projects. Especially considering how few 2 doors and convertibles are left.

The method I use is fast, safe and easy. I mounted a cheap electric fuel pump to a piece of plywood. I attached two wires with alligator clips on one end. I install inlet side of the pump to the metal fuel line via a fuel line hose under the hood before the car's fuel pump. The output of the pump has about 4 feet of fuel line going to the container for the old fuel. Attach the alligator clips to a 12V battery and it will pump out all the old fuel. You know when it is finished as the pump motor will sound different when it is pumping air as opposed to fuel.

38 views and no suggestions? Maybe I'll have to solve this one myself....

Well,general consensus is what I expected. On my last Reatta, I flushed the system when I bought it. I sold it a year later so that was it. On my other new cars & truck I also change it every 2 years. After the New Year, I'll drain and flush my new Reatta. I am amazed how nice this car is and how well it runs and drives given the high mileage. It sat in inside storage for 8 years as when I bought it it still had the 2000 license plates. I hope it lasts a long time but even if it doesn't I don't have a lot into it and then I'll have a new project to play with.

As long as I'm asking questions I have another minor problem with my '90 Coupe. Twice now the driver's side seatbelt will stick in the retractor and I can't pull it out. It never happens in my driveway, always somewhere else where I have to drive home without a seatbelt to fix it. My solution so far has been to disaasemble all the plastic in the rear of the car to get to the retractor and then tap it with a rubber mallet to free up the stop pawl. I suspect that through age, the seatbelt has become stretched and therefore retracts too far into the retractor thus sticking the safety pawl. The car has not been in an accident. What are my repair options? It is a major pain dissassembling all the rear plastic only to have it happen again after it is all put back. Does someone have a source for a new seatbelt? I also cracked the plastic shroud that the seatbelt retracts on. My car is Maui Blue with a blue interior. I suspect I'll have to contact Jim Finn about the plastic piece but what about the seatbelt? Thanks in advance. Greg

I think I already know the answer but I thought I'd better ask than assume. My recently purchased '90 Coupe has 148K on it, the last 2K I put on it since September. During the purchase process I asked the previous owner if he ever changed the brake fluid. He looked at me and asked why would he ever do that? He owned the car since the first owner who sold it to him at around 6K miles. The car passed the brake test with flying colors. My inclination is to get it flushed and changed ASAP but there is a part of me that says "If it ain't broke don't fix it." Given how many miles would it be wise to still change the fluid? He couldn't tell me if at any of his brake jobs they changed the fluid. I doubt they did unless so instructed. What do you think? Thanks. Greg

I have agreed value through Hagerty. It is insured for $7,000. I also have 2 other Buicks insured through them. Hagerty typically doesn't have a limit but they don't like it if the car gets more than 2,500 miles per year. I seem to remember it was around $350 a year. Typically Hagerty requires a $15K agreed value for the newer collectables but they made an exception for mine when my agent made the request. It also carries the usual collector car caveats, you must have a driver car for daily use, no commuting, etc...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Reattatude</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The December Bugle is in the mail and it is crammed with Reatta articles... Good! Though interesting, I was getting tired of the parade 1960 LeSabres, Invictas, etc. </div></div> This is exactly why you need more than one Buick collector car. I have 3 so I can find something of interest in most every Bugle. Tell your significant other. It is a sickness that is easily cured with large amounts of capital.

My Mother who was very religious also had a unique method of auto repair. She had an old Ford wagon that had low oil pressure and would flicker the oil light at idle. She put a prayer card over the light and left it to God to keep an eye on her oil pressure. The car out lasted her. Go figure....

I really appreciate this discussion. The shop didn't even suggest converting to R134A like they had on other cars they have worked on for me. I made the assumption that there was a reason for that. They did vacuum (empty) the system of the 1/2 # of R12 that was left in it. If I am changing out the orifice tube, the compressor, the high side schrader valve, drier, along with the "O" rings, is there anything else that I would have to do to convert to R134A? Does R134A provide sufficient cooling in the Reatta? I've read that it doesn't cool as well as Freon (R12). I think R134A is available in pressurized cans at most auto parts stores. If I could charge the system in my diveway with R134A then driving to the shop without compressor oil becomes a moot point (I still would need to install the correct oil, however). If I need to buy special equipment to charge the system, I wouldn't do enough of it to justify the cost of that equipment. I'm kinda flying by the seat of my pants here and I really do appreciate the education. I only paid $2,700 for the car and I'd hate to pay 1/3 more just for the AC. I'd rather spend the money I could save on a few minor cosmetic things the car needs. I am a big guy and do really enjoy the AC in the summertime.

I am getting ready to undertake my AC repair. A trusted but expensive shop has identified the compressor, the drier, and the orofice tube as all needing replacement. They wanted over $1,000 to do the work and charge the system with R12. They told me if I would buy the parts and install them, they would charge me $200 to recharge the system with R12. I am a fair wrench but a poor diagnostician and a lousy AC tech. In reading up prior to undertaking this I find that there is an oil that needs to be in the compressor. I assume this is in addition to any (if any)lubricating properties of the R12. My question is, will I harm my new compressor if I install it without the oil and then drive it the 8 miles or so to the shop to have it charged? Is it a big deal to install the compressor oil? Where does one get compressor oil? As you can see, I know little to nothing about AC systems. Thanks. I just got my FSM today, I'll be studying up but any other advice would be truly appreciated.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brh</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A lot of parts that look right do not interchange between 64 and 65. The good news is the grill IS interchangeable between the 64 and 65 Skylark. The emblem in the middle of the grill on 64 is a bolt on. Provided your GS emblem is a bolt on you are good to go. Group 1.266 Pt number 9704333. </div></div> They are very different. The grill on the '65 is fairly straight across the bottom as the front bumper rises in the center. It also has a lip that mates to the bumper. The '64 bumper drops in the center and the grill rises on each end to meet the headlight bezel (door). You might be able to bojack one in somehow but it won't look right. I have a decent (not perfect)'65 grille if you are interested. PM me if you are. Greg

I just won on ebay a GM training course book on the Teves brake system. It covers our cars plus the other GM cars that used different configurations of the Teves system through the mid 90's. I got it for the minimum bid of $24.95. It is written in fairly simple english and with the diagrams, it is easy to figure out what they are discussing. I have never seen one of these offered before. I was surprised that it got no other bids besides mine. I watched it go through its first auction with no bids. I convinced the seller to relist it and lo and behold I got it for the starting bid! When I finish reading it I expect I will be a Teves expert and amaze all of you with my technical expertise.....yeah right.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Drake</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If not, use your Reatta service manual. </div></div> Ah, the Reatta Service manual. Great book, tons of information. I bought one on ebay for $90 5 years ago when I bought my first Reatta. Then in a senior moment I forgot I had it and bought a second one for about the same cost. I sold my first Reatta 3 years ago and then after a few years came to the wrong conclusion that I wouldn't ever own another Reatta. I tried selling the manuals on Ebay with a $35 minimun bid - no takers. I tried selling them here for the same $35 - no takers. I wound up giving both of them away to friends in my local BCA chapter who owned Reattas. Now that I find myself in need of another service manual, all the ones I have seen on Ebay are asking over $100 for them. I don't think they are selling for that, but they keep getting relisted for the same amount. I am having a hard time intellectually to be willing to spend that much again. Does anyone here have one they wish to sell for around $50? Is that reasonable? Thanks.

From your lips to God's ears. I hope you are right. I don't think they will become all that valuable, even in 10 years. Rare doesn't mean valuable. Think of the AMC Gremlins or Pacers. Typically, the collector car market doesn't value Buicks as highly as many other makes, with a few exceptions. The cars that typically appreciate to high dollar status were those that were very desirable when new but unaffordable to the masses. The Reatta qualifies on the second count but misses the first. While we know how terrific these cars are and love the styling, the Great Unwashed just doesn't have the same opinion. The only possible exception to this could be the convertible Reatta but even those I don't suspect will ever appreciate to high dollar collector car status. I know that an expensive, hand built, 2 seater, with a ton of luxury touches should remain a desirable car but the Reatta didn't, if ever it was desirable. That said, we should revel in the fact that we, as the select few, understand the desirability of these cars, and we can pick them up for peanuts from the less knowing. I plan to keep my coupe until the wheels fall off and even with 146K on the clock, that doesn't seem like anytime soon.

Got a little more clarification last night. He said that the security light blinks until he starts the car then it goes out, only to come back on when he shuts the engine off. He said the car doesn't have any remotes and he disconnects the battery every night so it won't discharge. I am wondering if I brought one of my Reatta remotes over and reprogrammed it for his car and then tried to turn off the security system, would that work? Or if the system is "alarmed" could I reprogram the remote to work? Thanks, this car was a $1,200 car a couple of years ago and he doesn't want to spend a lot to get this fixed.

This question is for a friend who has an '89 Riviera. I would think the security system would be the same for Reattas. One day he slammed the trunk lid down and the horn alarm began to sound. He inserted the key and turned it and the alarm shut off as it should. He now said the security light on the dash stays on all the time, even with the key off. Any ideas as to what this might be or does he have to suck it up and go to the dealership and pay big bucks for troubleshooting? He would be happy just to disable the system and the light. Thanks.

Mine reads slow too. I just got the car so I can't say if it's normal.

There are 2 answers to your question. If you are considering Classic Car Insurance you want the value of your car to be high but reasonable so the premium isn't too much. Please see the posting in this forum about Classic Car Insurance. Most have what they call "Agreed Value" which means if you and the insurance company agree on the value, that is what they will pay upon a total loss. Be sure to ask about restrictions on use, mileage and storage when you have Classic Car Insurance. It is very different from regular car insurance and varies from one provider to another. Another suggestion would be to have the car appraised by a Certified Auto Appraiser. This could run you a few hundred dollars. As to pricing your car to sell, of course you want to get as much as you can for it, but the objective should be to sell the car. It seems like there are "more than their share" of Reattas in the midwest states, Illinois and Ohio so they are more plentiful which means buyers can be more selective in what they are looking for. This also seems to be the case in Florida, California and Texas but I think the Texas is on the list because Barney Eaton lives there and he just can't pass up a nice Reatta! Anyway, here in Washington they are pretty sparse and when I went looking for my new Reatta I didn't want to spend over $3K for it. I also wanted a 90-91 Maui Blue Coupe with a sunroof and a CD player. I actually found the car right in my same city and only paid $2,700 for it. It is a very nice car in excellent condition but it does have over 146K on the odometer. I was extremely fortunate that it had everything I wanted. I found the NAPA guides and KBB not helpful in computing what the price should be. Owners of Reattas know typically that they are rare, and desirable, expensive when new, and expect to get "Collector Car" prices for them. The general buying public looks at them as interesting, but old used cars. That means it is hard to strike a balance where both parties feel like they got the best possible deal. I looked at a lot of ratty Reattas before I found my gem but I knew what I wanted and stayed true to my desire. The general buying public won't pay a premium to buy the Reatta despite what they sold for new. This may change over the years as there becomes fewer of them but you are selling to a small and select audience. If you want to sell to the general public, the only way to get their attention is with a low price. If you do decide to sell your Reatta, I hope you find a buyer like me.

My insurance guy just got off the phone with Hagerty calling in my new policy. They asked him why we thought the Reatta was worth $15K? He told them that they were the ones setting the minimums. Evidently they do make exceptions and my Reatta is now insured for $8K at a cost of $156 annually which is a much more reasonable assesment of the car's actual value. I asked if I still had the $500 deductable which I assume is yes but he hasn't answered me back yet. Of course all the usual Hagerty requiremants apply, must have a commuter car, car must be garaged, keep the mileage around 2.5K per year, etc. I must say I am very pleased with Hagerty. I was figuring I had to get Liability only from my regular car insurer which was going to cost over $500 annually and provide much less coverage. I now have 3 cars covered by them.

I insured my Reatta through Hagerty for the $15K. It is an agreed value policy and as long as I send in the premium, they agree to cover it. It cost me less than $300 a year. It does carry a $500 deductable. The coverage means that it would be harder to "Total" the car given the "Agreed Value". I have been very pleased with Hagerty coverage over the last 8 years.

I haven't sent mine yet. How much do you want for it?

I sent in my $10 and the application. It's good to be back home! Greg