ol' yeller
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Posts posted by ol' yeller
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That's pretty close to my experience although us guys with 90's have to hand calculate as we have no MPG readout. I get 18-20 on most days being short trips around town. I have seen 30 several times when we go to the Buick Show in Portland.
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I have always been interested in cars and how they worked. As a young man in the 7th grade I wrote a descriptive essay about the joy of making/fixing something with your hands. I thought I nailed the assignment but I got a C+. My teacher felt I should aim higher. As I grew my passion grew too. At 15 I was repairing my brother's '58 TR3 on an almost weekly basis. I got lots of encouragement from my next door neighbor who also happened to be my girlfriend's Dad. He helped me when I blew the engine in my '65 Skylark convertible. He also told me how to find and fix the damage when I wrecked the front end. My Dad was a Lawyer and while he enjoyed the fruits of my labors with his cars he didn't encourage me much to develop my talents. When I would work on his car he generally would come out at some point and begin questioning me like a known perjurer about what I was doing. I think he just liked to argue.
Family concerns, wife, kids, etc. took over and while I always did my own work and I rebuilt several cars and trucks into running reliable vehicles, I never had the opportunity to restore a car which I always desired to do.
When I hit my 40's I finally had enough money and tools to attempt a restoration. I found a rusty '64 Skylark convertible that needed everything. I managed a frame off restoration of the engine, drivetrain, suspension, and chassis. The bodywork wasn't panning out the way I had hoped so once the body was back on the frame, all the sheet metal repaired, I sold it as a rolling project for a lot less than I had into it. I don't know what ever happened to that car. It wound up in Yakima, WA.
Fast forward 10 years and I began again, this time with a '65 Skylark 2 door hardtop. I was determined to complete this project. I was finally at that point in my life where I had the time, the money and the place to do it properly. The car was OK to begin with but I did an every nut and bolt restoration that took me 6 months. My painter allowed me to reassemble the car at his shop if I helped him around his shop. I learned a great deal from him. The first year I had Ol' Yeller, I took it to a local Buick car show and won Most Ambitious Project. The next year when I came back to the same show it won Best in Class and Most Improved. After I finished the Skylark I did a frame off restoration of a '69 Riviera also at his shop. I transformed an ugly $300 green car into a stunning midnight blue with a white interior. It took 2 parts cars and a huge amount of money as no one made any aftermarket parts for this car back then. I laughingly refer to this car as the most expensive $300 Riviera in the world. I have since helped a buddy and replaced a frame on a '65 Skylark 4 door project of mine that he now owns. I also restored a '71 Beetle for my daughter and '71 Karmann Ghia for me.
My point is that you have to love doing your own work and a good set of tools is a great investment. The rest comes from learning from your mistakes and diagnosing things properly. When I was young I had to learn to repair my cars because I couldn't afford to take them to a mechanic. Need a head gasket? Go look it up in the Chilton's and get busy is how I learned. Now I am in my 60's and I still do a lot of my own work but now it is because I don't trust others to do the work correctly.
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That might be hard to come by. You might want to look for an FM converter that bolts on under the dash which is period correct, (Not 400 point judged correct) as they are still pretty easy to find at swap meets, fairly reasonable and doesn't hack up the dash like an aftermarket radio might.
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Really any small FWD car on a good dolly makes a good TOAD. Just remember you can't back up more than a foot or two.
OTOH an electric jack ($100) makes short work of dropping a trailer.
Backing shouldn't be an issue where we usually camp. Electric motors on the stabilizers will run another $400 and I still would have to struggle with the heavy sway bars and hitch. Having an onboard genny also allows for stopping in places without hook-ups, push a button and instant electricity. My Class C also eliminates the requirement of having a larger tow vehicle and all that entails (maintenance, insurance, storage, etc.). Using my Reatta as a toad keeps my inventory at 3 vehicles.
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I hear ya Padgett. Our 2 previous RVs were trailers that I pulled with my '99 F250. It was great to have a vehicle after camp was set up and I loved my old pick-up. Serious health issues led me to sell the truck and trailer 4 years ago, but the wanderlust of camping was never lost. Fortunately I have recovered enough to once again enjoy the great outdoors but I had to compromise on my method. The RV is much easier to set-up at camp and easier to drive, even with a toad. I'm just grateful that I can still get out and see what this great country has to offer. Thanks to all who responded. I figured someone here would be able to answer my question.
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My RV has a rear view camera that can be set to stay on continuously. I am looking at a dolly available locally new that has surge brakes and stowable ramps. It also has a pivoting deck. If it weighs in at less than 1500 pounds (I think it is well under 500#) the combined weight of both should be well below the RV's capabilities. My last worry now is for my beloved convertible to suffer the slings and arrows from the indignity of being towed behind the RV. I have read elsewhere that being up on a dolly is better for the toad than 4 down as the dirt and stuff gets flung at the undercarriage rather than at the shiney stuff. Our trips tend to be under 150 miles each way and having a way to do sightseeing or just get to the store would be great.
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I've been considering this for awhile. First thought was to buy a 4 down towable car to pull behind our RV. After discovering the costs for the new car, the tow bar, the frame attachments, and a braking system I think a tow dolly would be a lot less. The Reatta is a heavy car but within the limits of my E450 RV. Putting the front drive wheels on the dolly should work. I was just wondering if the long overhang in front of the front wheels could be an issue, especially when turning. It seems some have towed on a dolly successfully. I may rent one to try it out before buying one. I think putting it up on a dolly would also cut down on rock damage.
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The heading says it all. I am considering towing my '90 Convertible behind my RV. I wonder if the long front overhang of the Reatta causes problems on a tow dolly.
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oops! My bad
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I think DANIEL as well as couple of others have made a conversion to a manual 5 speed. I would love to have a 5 speed manual in my convertible if I could make it look like it was originally made that way.
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Thanks Dave. I'll check it out.
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I personally like and prefer the whole taillight but everyone is entitled to their opinion and how they express it in their own car. It reminds me of my 1st car, a 1965 Skylark convertible. I am considering doing the sequential turn signal mod if it is still available and not too expensive.
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OK, sorry I took so long but today was a busy day. I have attached 3 photos all taken from the rear of the car with the 5th bow folded up and locked against the 4th bow. The top is up. The stretchy band that is sewn to the rear package cover on one end is attached to the 5th Bow with a screw (Phillips?) that can't be seen nor can I get a picture for that reason. If you feel with your finger about where the picture shows it attached you should either feel a screw or a screw hole. The velcro part attaches along the 5th bow all along the length of the rearmost part of the top. If this isn't clear, let me know and maybe I can explain it better.
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I'll try to take some pictures of how mine is attached later today and post here.
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And hard to find!
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Find someone, or a machine shop that has access to a metal lathe. Have the larger (but available) hub cut down to the smaller size. I have had this done at least 3 times and it looks like it was meant to be with a sport wheel. It shouldn't cost very much either.
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Front or rear Kingsley? DANIEL here did arrange to have some rears made of polyurethane or silicone a while back. I don't know if he has any left. You might try to send him a PM.
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Thanks Kerry. I've read those both. On the second link, where it says, "Stop". I did. Too much work for this old guy with half a heart and a frozen shoulder.
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David and I were typing at the same time. I forgot about the Orifice Tube. Good catch.
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Ideally one should also change the O-rings to the green ones that are compatible with R134A at all the connections. It is also a good idea to replace the drier which after 25+ years of drying the desiccant is pretty well worn out. The system requires a complete evacuation and then the recharge with compatible oil.
Depending upon the miles and the state of components, It might be a good time to replace the compressor as well as the condensor in front of the radiator. It depends upon how many times this person wants to do the job and how much money they want to spend.
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I know 89s are different but did it set a code? On my 90, when those warning lights come on,it also sets a code that tells you where to look.,i.e. where the code was set from.
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I have felt the same way too, George. There are times that I just want sell the Reatta and eliminate the worry about windshields, parts availability, and ABS systems and just drive a newer, faster, safer, reliable car. Then the sun comes out and the top goes down and I can't ever imagine living without my fun little roadster. I'd also miss those interactions with others who ask "Who made that?" or just getting a thumbs up at a stoplight. I came very close to selling a while back but came to my senses before any money traded hands. I can't imagine not having a Reatta in the garage.
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After my car won a Gold award at the Portland National, I felt it had reached the pinnacle of appreciation from my Reatta brothers. After that I decided to make it a car that I would enjoy, built to my tastes, and yet do nothing to keep it from being returned to its originality in the future if desired. I have mostly achieved this. First I added the Riviera wood styled dash and console which I think looks richer than the original. Second was the radio replacement as repairing the original equipment was too expensive and the results were not as good as replacement. The only irreversible change was some trimming of the plastic support behind the radio so the deeper aftermarket head unit would fit. This modification cannot be seen without tearing the dash apart and effects the dash support in no way structurally. I am keeping all removed components and they will be passed on to any future owner who may wish to return the car to an original state.
As for the wheels, it is a matter of personal taste. My stock wheels are beginning to show signs of their age with some minor peeling and some scrapes and gouges from careless parking and the wrong wheel weights being used by previous owners. They are also 15" which in my opinion look small on this car. My thoughts are that the brushed finish of the original wheels should have been chrome as the car could use a little more bling. I never liked the stock wheels and to spend money refurbishing them just doesn't feel right when the money could be put towards replacement with something I like better. I replaced the wheels on my previous 2 Reattas and thought their looks were improved immensely. On my first burgundy Reatta coupe, I bought some chrome wheels (15") from Les Schwab a tire dealer here in the Northwest. They looked great to me when I first got them but they became dated looking quickly. On my second maui blue sunroof coupe, I put on chrome 16" wheels from a '98 Buick Regal GS and to this day I think they are the best looking wheels for this car. The center caps even have the Buick tri-shield which is completely missing from the Reatta. If I can find a nice set in a wrecking yard for not a lot of money or at a swap meet I may pick them up. The only downside is that it will also require a tire change and my current tires have a lot of tread left so this mod will have to come later. I will keep the original wheels with the car as well if John wants to buy the car after I am done with it. He will probably have a long wait. LOL
I am lucky that the paint and body on my car are beautiful. The leather interior is also in amazing shape. While I think it would have been a better car with a Series II supercharged V6, I am happy enough with what I have. My car does have just over 100K miles but everything is working the way it should. So barring some catastrophe like a an ABS or transmission failure, hopefully I will get many more miles out of her so why not make her something that puts a smile on my old face?
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I debated doing that too Padgett, but determined that the antenna plug adapter would hit the screw mount of the plastic dash support structure and be in the way with my deck. Putting the slot on the bottom allowed me to trim the plastic dash support without destroying the mount for it.
I looked at several decks and decided this one was the best for the money despite the blue color illumination. As claimed earlier, I am by no means an audiophile but I love the way this unit sounds. It is light years better than the stock radio and the new speakers. The separation is like you are sitting in a concert hall. At a high volume, you can feel the base from both the rear speakers and the lower door speakers. I left the tweeters connected in the doors for both speakers and it does deliver a much crisper sound than it did with the old stuff. I imagine it will lose some of the cachet when the top is down but it will still be much better than it was.
The next project after my wallet recovers is to replace the ugly Reatta wheels with something more suitable to my tastes.
Best Reatta year for purchase?
in Buick Reatta
Posted · Edited by ol' yeller (see edit history)
Lots of answers already written here on the forum. It is hard to say because it depends upon what you are looking for. If you want a convertible, you are looking at 90 and 91 only and very few 91's. If you like the touch screen you are looking at 88 and 89 only. If you don't want the Teves ABS system, you are looking at 91 only. If you want a driver's side airbag you are back at 90 and 91. There were very few sunroof coupes made in 88. There isn't really a best year for Reattas as all years had their pluses and detractions. Things to consider when buying are generally condition related. If the AC "Needs a recharge" figure on spending just over a grand to convert to R134a along with a compressor drier, orifice tube and likely a condensor. Struts will run you a grand as well as the mounts and the struts generally have to be replaced at this point in time. ABS issues are expensive and parts are hard to find so I'd walk from a car with ABS problems. Windshields are also somewhat scarce and you can spend up to $2K on one when you find it. If you live in the rust belt or are considering a car from there, check the cradle bushings as they deteriorate and are hard to find as are front brake ABS leads.
On the plus side, the 3800 is pretty much bulletproof. The transmissions hold up well for 150K miles or so. The leather interiors also hold up well, all except the steering wheels. You will own a car that attracts comments and stares as few are aware that Buick actually made a hand built 2 seat sports car.
Collectibility is easy. You want a Select 60 convertible with very low miles, or a Polo Green '91 convertible
. Actually the '91's are probably the most collectible given their low production numbers and the fact that they were the end of the line. Chances of snagging one for a low price are not good as I think their appreciation/value is at a peak right now. I have seen a few '88 coupes get better money if they have all the options as well as suede bolsters and low mileage. That said, the only thing a Reatta will do for your eventual retirement fund is to insure that you will have to gain an appreciation for beans and franks. They are NOT a reliable investment now or probably well into the future. 1990 is the year when most Reatta's were produced so they are probably at the bottom of the future collectible chain.
I had another thought. Go to the sub forum Reatta For Sale and click on the heading, Selling Your Reatta. That list of things we expect to see here when someone is selling their Reatta will also give you a great idea of what to look for when buying one as well.