Jump to content

Seldenguy

Members
  • Posts

    718
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Seldenguy

  1. Not for sale but FREE! All issues for the years 1950 up to the early 80's, a couple of hundred total. Would like to see them go a minimum of one year at a time. Send me a PM and agree to pay the postage or pick them up local. Thanks for your interest, Bob
  2. Greg, My '36 Roadmaster 80C needed this replaced when I restored it. I found the "wood board" to be available as an insulating board used in construction and having a black film on one side. Being several years ago, this may not be available today. I cut it to size flat and then soaked it in a bathtub of water for a couple of days. I was fortunate to have an extra firewall so I clamped and bolted it on that to form the contour and let it dry for a couple of weeks. Cutting the jute and panel board was a snap. A local upholstery shop made the edge welting and sewed it on to the panelboard , I painted it to the original color and was also able to reuse the special headed bolts and nuts. It was an AACA repeat Grand National and passed all the interior judges scrutiny, I guess. --Bob--
  3. Bud, be sure of the overall length. The Roadmaster splash /stone guard is longer than the Special/Century model, and are very difficult to obtain. I had to get two Specials and cut them and make a splice by welding the two pieces together for my 80C. Best of luck in your search. Bob
  4. Several years ago I completely re-wooded a Cord L-29 convertible from the white oak sills to the convertible top header. I remember the golf door hinges as being almost exactly like your application. I also was quite impressed with the action they portrayed. While trying to decide whether to rebuild them or replace them I found they were readily available. The ones I looked at were described as being a " SOSS " hinge and still are used in the construction of high end furniture. My choice was to restore as original. This info probably won't help you as F&J has just volunteered to solve your dilemma. I wish you well in the preservation of your original hinges. -Bob-
  5. Tom, there was a 1911 Cameron in a collection in south central New York state, I have reason to believe it is still there. Steve Bono did the restoration for the owner. If you need any further info please PM me. Bob Mahoney
  6. Matt, I have a black hard rubber(?) knob that is new old stock. Most impressive is the sterling silver monogrammed insert in the center. The knob is about 2-1/4 inches, the insert is about 1-1/2" in diameter. PM if interested. Bob
  7. Yes it is Marty, Howard has been a Hudson man going back several years. I was pleased to know he would become the caretaker of another fine auto after knowing him for thirty-plus years. Delivery costs were cheap as he only lives 40 miles away, he could have driven it that far easily. --Bob
  8. Marty, my reply to the gas pedal was in reference to my '14 654 Hudson which was a bear for me to drive. I might also add people were generally a little smaller around the waist back in the teens then I am now--Bob
  9. I owned an early car equipped with a center accelerator and to me was a PITA. I had to hold my foot at a 45 degree angle in order to be "partially" comfortable. My plan to correct it was to install a rod with a pad on it to push the gas pedal down. With the rod installed above the steering column and a new rubber foot and heel pad at the right of the brake pedal. We would then be back to the normal right foot to brake pattern and easily accessible from the new location. I fabricated the device but a fellow collector liked the car better than I did before it was installed. There was no doubt in my mind that it would have functioned properly. -- Bob
  10. I had a standard bore engine in one of my cars that was "owner reported, low miles". That one needed an overbore of .040 thousands to get the cylinders centered back over the crankshaft. Any time you can upgrade for only the cost of reaming the valve guides instead of turning the stems to fit old guides I most definitely would ream. But, I have done things irrational before without thinking it out. Good luck on your decision. --Bob--
  11. The OP goes by '13CADDY. Sorry, I guessed he was speaking of that car. My apology for assuming this instead of assuming wires. --Bob
  12. The OP goes by '13CADDY. Sorry, I guessed he was speaking of that car. My apology for assuming this instead of assuming wires. --Bob
  13. With good ears you can hear an early cars wooden wheels 'clicking' when they start to get loose or dried out. When in that condition and it's a driver car it is best to have them redone for you and your passengers safety. --Bob
  14. Having many issues(cracks,pitting, material missing) with these problematic pieces on my '36 80-C. I spent many hours talking to platers,shipping expenses,driving many miles so they could look at them, then being told to get new ones? I finally copied them in sheet metal, making an exact copy minus the plating thickness to be applied. When done they fit the hinge base and worked as or better than the GM originals. A lot of work but did anyone who has personally restored a car ever say, "Boy, that was easy"? Issues can be resolved. --Bob
  15. The Warren Detroit was a pretty successful automobile in the early days of motoring. And they to used a two main bearing crankshaft. And others did also, research will show why it was phased out of use. I suspect vibration would be a prominent issue. --Bob
  16. Hitch, also scroll down further in this forum for the Hupmobile site. There are some very knowledgeable Hupp people that will assist you on the cam and gear problem you have.--Bob
  17. If I was interested in any car, bus or truck and I had a phone number to call, BINGO. I would call and have all the info necessary to form a decision. Its really that simple. - Bob
  18. SOMOFLANGE. I would suggest to you that if you plan on keeping the 80C buy a shop manual for 1936. Most all the info you will need will be in it. Did you look in the tool box,(under the front seat cushion) for the tools? The tools are all available at local flea markets, including the distinctive jack. The vertical bar in the rear window is correct for a 1936 & 1937 Roadmaster. Lowering the top is quite simple, owning mine many years the top was down a lot. Unhook the front bow above the windshield making sure it is free, then unsnap the top from the frame rails, get into the back seat , unbutton the rear curtain and clear the top well . Standing on the back floor, behind the front seat, pick up the top and start folding the irons while moving it to the top well. Then go to the rear of the car and pull the excess canvas back to prevent chafing, refold neatly and place on the stacked irons, add the boot. Reverse to put it up. I always kept a spare tire in the trunk(not original to a sidemounted car) the side mounts are quite difficult to uncover and remove along side of the road, however I never used the trunk spare. Just lucky I guess. I sold extra wheels just for this purpose. Good luck on your purchase and use of a great Buick automobile. Bob
  19. -Many years ago my brother-in-law was a subscriber to Hemmings and his mag was always later than anyone else in the area. Seems like the RFD carrier was a latent old car guy. He often spoke of old car issues in the coffee shop which he could have only gotten from Hemmings. It was an accepted fact (read cheap) that he would not spend the money for any thing extra in his life style! Bob
  20. I am pretty sure they came from the factory with a set of wiring instructions and a distinctive dash mounted switch. The original switch is next to impossible to locate or see, much less to purchase. The original wiring instructions are most likely available to see in many of the auto museums libraries.
  21. Rod, I am going to my storage building today. I don't recall the type or how many I have but you are welcome to them. Please send me your mailing address so I can get them on the way. Thank you. Bob
  22. Rod, send me an email as to the tiers heights you need and how many of each . I have a few and would send them to you rather then to the land fill. Bob
  23. I have frequently told friends whom have complained about the costs of parts for their restoration projects, the basics are "you have to pay more than $20 for a front fender for your $100,000 '57 chevy in today's economy". Bob
  24. Layden, I can't help you with an online version. However the AACA did have a magazine article titled "Magneto and its history". Probably around 1950 ? Also, the HCCA published an extensive article specific to the early Bosch magneto several years ago, that is very interesting. But again I don't know if it is online, I would think an email to them could help you find it. Good luck on your research. Bob
  25. Dave, I think as well as the coupe they were standard on the '11 touring car according to the factory specifications.I also recall that they were an accessory for all 20's body styles? I have seen a couple of the touring cars other than mine and both of them were equipped with the Hupp shocks. --Bob--
×
×
  • Create New...