voucher2001

Thank you everyone for your input. I think I will probably take the money....Still no information about the "salvage" value. It looks like I might have an owner's portfolio for sale soon. Watch this space!

I got a call from the "total loss" department yesterday concerning my 1990 Reatta. Bottom line they are willing to pay me a total of $4,550 for the car. This includes a base value of about $4500 + $250 for good condition + $50 for taxes and registration - $250 deductible. I am tempted to take it.....the car doe have a number of niggling problems ( see other post titled "well, it finally happended) When I asked what the salvage value would be because I am allowed to "buy" it back, they said they would get back to me on Friday or Monday. Other than the driver's door....which is a mess and the quarter panel the body is in excellent condition. Should I hold out for more? It seems like a reasonable price. If the salvage value is low enought I could buy it back and try to get the work done with a door from Jim Finn and the get the body work done at my leisure. I know, it sounds like I want to have my cake and eat it too...but why not if it can be done.

Thanks for the quick reply. The adjuster just finished. I'll get a call next week. Interesting comment from her regarding the unavailability of parts. "well, if they can't find the right side molding with the Reatta logo, don't worry, they will be able to replace it with some generic black plastic" !!! I would rather take the money than not have the proper side molding with the Reatta logo on it!! My car is grey also. Unusual color.

Does anyone know the value of a 1990 coupe, excellent condition in Cars of Particular Interest? I am going to have an insurance "field adjustor" appraise my car. Big damage to driver's side and quarter panel but no broken glass in recent accident. I understand that they probably will "total" the car and I want a starting point for the coming negotiations. What factors should I be aware of in my decision to take the money or repair the car?

Through my own driver's error I pulled away from a parking spot and damaged my left side from the driver's door on back. I parked next to a Handicapped Spot and for some reason did not see the large, yellow, concrete pole marking the spot at the end. Since my parking spot allowed me to drive straight out, I did...but when I hung a quick left the pole hit my left side, beginning with the side view mirror and ended at the rear wheel well. I was over before I could stop. Garish yellow paint and much body damage to the door. No broken glass but the window won't go down more than half way and the outside lock is so damaged that the it won't open the door. I can open the door from the inside. Side vent is fine as is the mirror. I contacted my insurance company (State Farm) and reported the incident. I have a $250 deductible but am covered for the repairs. While I am awaiting a call from the claim center a few questions have crossed my mind. The car is a '90, Gray with high mileage (137k). The body, however, is, no was, in excellent condition. I'm the second owner and the car has always been garaged. Mechanically the engine is strong, with rebuilt transmission. There are a few niggling problems....one headlight is balky, the AC is currently out, passenger side window is sloooooowww and the head liner needs total replacement. I know the car is not worth that much..probably 3000k before the accident but that is where I need some advice and guidance. The damage looks to me to be substantial and while I will go the authorized body shop tomorrow to get an estimate, what is the chance that the repairs will be more than the value of the car? If the door were replaced there would still be a large dent to the left of the wheel well. The agent told I could buy back the car if I wanted. Maybe I should wait until the estimate but has anyone been here before. Too late to post pictures tonight if that would help I could do it tomorrow. I am willing to ante up the deductible so that's not the issue. Any thoughts?

I have been a member for about three years but I have never had occasion to use the "search" function. Tried today but I just can't get it to work for me! Is there some trick I am missing. All fields are completed but no luck. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Padgett....looks like the best place to start replacing parts.

Ran the diagnostics...no error codes in the ECM. The TPS reads .48 at idle. Visually and tactily (?) checked coil pack and the spark plug wires. Nothing obviously wrong. It's been two years since their last change and only 8K miles. Really annoying!

What I had originally thought was a transmission problem was checked out and found not to be responsible for my car's odd behavior. Starts fine on first crank. Accelerates under load fine but when crusing in drive or overdrive under no load, the engine seems to be constantly stumbling. Stepping on the gas does not cause a hesitation but give me a strong increase in speed. Could the fuel pump or the fuel filter be the cause or could it be the O2 sensor? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Replaced battery with new one and solved the problem. But can't undestand why it didn't start when jumped? Anyway...works fine now. Thanks for all your comments.

Thanks,I'll try that. Also, would disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery perhaps "reset" everything?

Update....Tried jumping but it did not work. When key is turned in ignition, instrument panel lights up but further turning the key gets nothing. No clicks at all. Anything else for me to try?

How ironic!!I just met my wife who had dropped her Toyota Camry off at the dealer for repair and when I got back into my 1990 Reatta, it would not start. Just clicked and showed gauges. No warning or poor starting before...always on the first crank. The gauges showed no volts and oil pressure pegged out to the right. Can these reading be believed. Battery not corroded and "green" llght is visible (Battery made in 1997)Purchase date unknown. Can the starter be jammed in the flywheel? Does it sound like the battery is dead? Please offer suggestions. Have not tried to jump the car yet. Thanks.

Thanks for your responses!

My daily driver suddenly starting "feeling" strange two weeks ago and then the transmission starting sounding different last week. This week on Monday while driving to work the transmission seemed to "search" between the last gear whether in drive or drive(overdrive). This behavior has continued all week. I am the second owner (two years) and the car had the transmission rebuilt by the first owner four years ago. The fluid looks clean. What can a transmission shop do to adjust the unit to tighten it up or an I looking at a serious problem and costly repair?. Any ideas?

I would like a set of each. Thanks

Grey 90 coupe, Grey interior,Black molding 128,000miles. Still looks like new inside and out!

Thank you all for your input!

On the way to dinner at a restaruant in DC, Vadalia's ( great food!) I pulled up behind what I think was a green Reatta with VA tags but not sure ( it was dark)We both turned in different directions. I have never seen a green one before and I thought it looked great. Does anyone on this board have a digital picture of their green car that they can post? Come on, show your stuff!

The time has come to get my ride up to snuff. I am the second owner of a 1990 coupe which was purchased 2 years ago with 123K and now is a daily driver with 127k miles. I plan on replacing the struts all the way around with alignment but what else would generally be necessary to replair/replace up front? No front end work has ever been done on the car to my knowledge. It really makes a lot of noise over rough roads.( clunks, squeaks and groans) Also, would it make any sense to just replace the front struts, the rear seems to ride tight. Thanks for any input!

When I took my '90 in to check out a coolant and oil leak, I was informed that a freeze plug was leaking and that the oil leaks were coming from the valve cover gaskets (both) and the oil pan gasket. At an independent shop the price quoted with labor was approximately $300 for the oil leaks and $600 for the replacing all the freeze plugs.( I guess once your there you might as well do them all) The method there was to drop the transmission to get the the plugs. I called my local Buick dealer and they quote approxmately $1400 to do both jobs. It was more expensive becasue they recommended pulling the engine and replacing all gaskets on the engine as well as the freeze plugs. As a matter of fact, they also suggested replacing the timing chain( at additional cost) since the engine was out and therefore, relatively easy and less expensive than if the engine were still in the car. Can all the freeze plugs be accessed just by droping the transmission or/and do you think I should have the engine pulled at the dealer and replace all gaskets and the timing chain? The car has 127,000 miles with no obvious symptoms of chain problems. The oil leaks are relativley small amounts and the coolant loss is slow now. Could it worsen or just let go? Suggestions and opinions appreciated!