M&M

Good morning yes thank you for the info, the car is not going into 1st or reverse at idle. Understanding the non-synch first and reverse, the car sat for a very long time and was thinking the surface of the clutch to possibly been glazed or rust. Just in the beginning stages of getting into it was curious if the wizard might have something to do with it. Thank you we will dig in to c what we come up with. Thanks MM

Familiar with the wizard sorry

Hello I was wondering if anyone was famished with the wizard control vacuum setup. I am missing hardware on the column but the rest looks to be hooked up to tranny. My issue is grinding in 1st and reverse and was wondering if there was a way to disconnect the wizard from tranny. Not sure if the vacuum might have something to do with it. No problem in 2&3 gears. Thanks M&M

So no takers I take it He had a Franklin he toured all over the country did tours I am assuming something happened to the frame of his car and he used the frame from this back in the day to keep his car going. Maybe Make an offer it can go to a good home and live on to help another Franklin see another day.

Hello I have a lady in Visalia California that has a 1927 Franklin in pieces no frame that needs to move it along out of an estate. She is asking 2000 for all if any interested I can pass your information along to her. Thank you for looking. M&M

Hello I have a lady in Visalia California that has a 1927 Franklin in pieces no frame that needs to move it along out of an estate. She is asking 2000 for all if any interested I can pass your information along to her. Thank you for looking. M&M

Hello everyone I have a gentleman who has an inventory of thousands of Hoosick Engineering Co caps, rotors and condensers from 20's to the 60's all makes from the original factory in Hoosick Falls NY, who’s looking to liquidate the entire inventory. If anyone is interested contact Matt at grnmtbyz@hotmail.com leave name and number. Here are just a few pics there are literally thousands. Thanks Matt

Robert Thank you for the post I have gotten her to fire and she is running, I followed manual to a tee and was just having someone else give me a little advise as to meshing valves and flywheel on the udc 1-8 mark on flywheel. I had moved the distributor and found my marks so I think I am all good, thank you for your time. Matt

Hello question if you take out distributor assembly along with gear and engine is complete not rebuild. And you forget at what cylinder you were on when you removed. Does that make a difference when putting back in? If so wondering how it works to set up valve timing. Thank you Matt ps I have attempted to set ignition and I got nothing just puffs of black smoke no consistency

Hello Dave if you get a chance Id like to bend your ear can I email you? mine is grnmtbyz@hotmail.com Thanks Matt

Hello Dave Thank you very much, I really appreciate it. I will be going over it again and again to make sure I have it correct. I will keep you posted. Thank you again Matt

Hello All I have a question in regards to engine timing and want to make sure I am not steering myself in the wrong direction. Now last year I had the engine running and was having trouble putting the car in first and second gear and was attempting to tune down the carburetor and adjust the timing. Now the car has not started since 1980 and I cleaned the carb and put new gaskets and needle valve in, took the water pump apart and cleaned, took of the fuel pump cleaned and put back. The car was in pretty good shape, just parked. So as I began to go thru the process of trying to get the timing down by going thru the blue manual specifications and adjustments for 1932 and followed the timing of the vehicle by watching no 3 exhaust fifth valve from front at top dead as exhaust is just about to open and timing to adv 10deg on the flywheel positioning rotor to number 1. Now this is where I am thinking I screwed things up! I in my ADHD hast was actually once I timed the first time was trying to time of the fourth valve instead of the 5th. I did not realize what I was doing and thought the rotor had moved and moved it back by undoing the advance screw picking up the the distributor and moving to position, this was last winter. I could not get the car to turn over and at that time winter was setting in and decided to continue in spring. Spring is here and went out to see what I had done wrong, now I have redone the timing to the fifth valve and moved the distributor back to original and am going to attempt to start soon. Now my questions are once I have in the position and no 1 is about to fire will the valves for no. 1 will both be in the up position? Also the points should they be opening or closed or just about to open? Other question is since moving the distributor a couple of times will that affect anything I should be concerned about with the distributor gear. Any comments will be most appreciated, I am not a mechanic and have never claimed to be and am willing to learn as much as I can from those born with the gift. I love antique cars and love driving them now I am attempting to understand what really makes them tick as much as possible. Just wanted to throw that out there and if anyone wants to make a video that would be even more helpful. I am going to go thru the book again and make sure I am in the right area. Thank you again look forward to the comments. Thank you Matthew Maya

Hello All I have a question in regards to engine timing and want to make sure I am not steering myself in the wrong direction. Now last year I had the engine running and was having trouble putting the car in first and second gear and was attempting to tune down the carburetor and adjust the timing. Now the car has not started since 1980 and I cleaned the carb and put new gaskets and needle valve in, took the water pump apart and cleaned, took of the fuel pump cleaned and put back. The car was in pretty good shape, just parked. So as I began to go thru the process of trying to get the timing down by going thru the blue manual specifications and adjustments for 1932 and followed the timing of the vehicle by watching no 3 exhaust fifth valve from front at top dead as exhaust is just about to open and timing to adv 10deg on the flywheel positioning rotor to number 1. Now this is where I am thinking I screwed things up! I in my ADHD hast was actually once I timed the first time was trying to time of the fourth valve instead of the 5th. I did not realize what I was doing and thought the rotor had moved and moved it back by undoing the advance screw picking up the the distributor and moving to position, this was last winter. I could not get the car to turn over and at that time winter was setting in and decided to continue in spring. Spring is here and went out to see what I had done wrong, now I have redone the timing to the fifth valve and moved the distributor back to original and am going to attempt to start soon. Now my questions are once I have in the position and no 1 is about to fire will the valves for no. 1 will both be in the up position? Also the points should they be opening or closed or just about to open? Other question is since moving the distributor a couple of times will that affect anything I should be concerned about with the distributor gear. Any comments will be most appreciated, I am not a mechanic and have never claimed to be and am willing to learn as much as I can from those born with the gift. I love antique cars and love driving them now I am attempting to understand what really makes them tick as much as possible. Just wanted to throw that out there and if anyone wants to make a video that would be even more helpful. I am going to go thru the book again and make sure I am in the right area. Thank you again look forward to the comments. Thank you Matthew Maya

Thank you for the post it looks as though a Napa 1006 canister filter will fit gonna give it a try. thanks matt

Hello any recommendations on oil filter canisters for 96s country club coupe? I took a chance and picked one up at Napa to small. Wondering if anyone’s got a filter number? thanks Matt

Hello all Well I got lucky the tank was in pretty good shape and the baking soda and white vinegar flush took a lot of the crap out, flushed out several times reintroduced gas she is holding. Left the dent but did paint black I’ll put in this weekend on to the next. Thank you for all the ideas I will have more questions I’m sure. Thanks Matt

Thanks Ed, I will take every option into consideration, I like the idea of removing the bottom and redoing. I have a neighbor who welds and works on a lot of farm equipment fabrication, I am going to bring it down to him and see what he might do. As everyone has seen the posting of the heat riser you will get a sense of what the car is, and how far it would take with both time and especially money to fully restore. I am but a small town middle of the road auto collector, I feel I've been lucky to find some of the vehicles I have and to be able to drive. I will be keeping it pretty much the way it is and make sure it is sound to drive as that is the intention. I like the idea of removing the bottom and putting new pan, as no one will be judging this vehicle with out a tetanus shot. That said I will not rat rod it or anything like that it will just be what it is in a state of found preserved. Thanks Matthew Maya

Hey thanks for the input I found a Re-new dealer about two hours from my house and will be calling for estimate. Thank you for the input I do appreciate it. Thanks Matthew Maya

Hello all well I have decided to tackle the gas tank and looks like it's been a while since any care as there is obvious sludge and build up in the tank, I also noticed underneath it was hit at some point and appears a little soft in one area not to mention that it is pretty rusty. I am going to drop and inspect! if it is not worth the effort is there anyone out there with either a used or knows were to purchase a brand knew replacement tank? I plan on driving the car as much as possible and am leaning toward new tank. 20 bucks for Muriatic Acid or 300 for new tank? Just curious if anyone knows of any out there, I heard I can use one off a series 80 as well 22 gallon. let me know if anyone has any leads or thoughts. Thank you for listening Matthew Maya 96S

Steve, Sure I am willing to be put on the list. Matthew Maya Home 802-457-2931 Cell 802-356-7925 and email grnmtbyz@hotmail.com Thanks

Very Nice Cars you two have their. I hope that some day it will get there, but for the mean time I think I am going to drive and do slight mods to interior and other areas. Nothing to shake up anyone I am a firm believer in keeping a car true to its heritage, unfortunately when I bought the car I was not given to much information or pics of the car. So I am kind of figuring out what next and how to go about colors and the what not, been kind of given a blank canvas. I might keep the way it is as to were people can see the raw bones of the car it is kind of interesting we shall see. Good luck with yours thanks for the comments and I will be looking for parts if anyone knows whos got the stash. Thanks Matt

Nice car mine is 2772689 haven’t got the engine number off hand. Is that original colors because on an old registration it says color was green. Wondering if I could get pics of the interior. Thanks for the pics Matt

Yes I am looking to mainly drive the car for a few years and see where it goes from there. I will leave as you see the engine and drive train are in pretty good condition. Had it running driving last year have cleaned all parts rebuilt those needed and putting back together. Not looking to disturb to much. I always wanted a 30’s Coupe and I’m pretty happy it’s a big car. thanks for looking I am looking for another rim if you might know anyone and any parts supply know. I also have a 1916 Hudson Touring Sedan center door pretty much all original. I like to find preserve and drive. thanks again Matt

So she’s a work in progress but does run just cleaning up and put back together c what happens. Thanks for looking Matt

Here’s some pics when I found it near bath Maine enjoy I’ll try posting more. It is a 96S matt