bubba

I feel like I was just sent up to my room without my supper. I am not showing the car for a prize. I wanted to drive it and after the failure the last time it's been sitting in the garage for a few years. I would not do anything to the car that couldn't be reversed back to stock. I do not tailgate but when you live in the NYC area where there is either a red light or a stop sign on every block you do get to stop a lot. If you believe that GM knew what they were doing all the time then I would only go for a cruise in Fantasyland. I personally bought my father a 1990 Buick Regal that we ordered new with all options including the new anti lock brake system that was very expensive. From day one the car never felt like it was stopping. Took it back to the dealer and they could NEVER fix it. Buick told us that this was normal for that brake system. My 1925 buick stopped quicker. After nine years he was not well enough to have the strength in his leg to stop it. The car was back on warranty several times. Buick finally told us that they could fix it for $2,200. We didn't jump at the chance, instead my father , who had only bought GM since 1958, went with me to Toyota and bought a new 1999 Avalon which my mom still drives with out a problem. Oh, one more thing. The 58 that he bought new was a Pontiac and he told me that it was the biggest piece of crap he ever bought. He traded it in on a 1961 Olds after the Pontiac would just decide to stop on its' own, engine off. First car I drove was my dad's new 1968 Electra with 4 wheel drums and it stopped fine even after I later put new shoes on it. Go figure!

Thanks to all that have responded so far.. I can answer some of the questions but will have to ask my mechanic about the rest. It pulls when cold and gets a little better warm. The drums were cut just enough to take the film that was on them off. This made a difference until the next time then it was back to abnormal. The drums were swapped on the front and it still pulled to the right. all new hoses. It looks like the car is not getting on the road again this year as the winter is fast approaching. I was always an "all original" guy with my cars and would never consider changing something that wasn't factory. BUT it's not fun to feel the pedal go down to the floor when you're driving. This is my second old car with hydraulic brakes. First was 1941 Olds which was not power of course and gave me no problem with the brakes. The clutch pedal went to the floor once while I was on the highway! All my other cars have had mechanical brakes and I like them much better. I'll get back to this when I have answers. Thanks again to all.

Let me start out that I have tried many things already. New front shoes, cut the drum just a tad, new hoses,,,the car makes a right turn when you stop. Has new ball joints. Last time I drove it the brakes totally failed. Lucky I was at a red light. This is not a comfortable feeling by any means. This was a few years ago. Master was rebuilt before that happened so put new dual master in. I would like to convert the front to disc without having to drill holes. Does anybody know of a conversion kit that does this for 1958 Century? Thanks in advance. Al

I checked my 1924 and 1925 parts books and it shows different part numbers. I checked my 1933 Master parts book and it shows the 24 and 25 master 6 with the same part number and the casting number 155438 while the one for sale has 165438. That looks like a 1924 6 cyl so I would say it's the same.

If you read my post again notice that I said "retrofit". This was to make the cars already out there available to vets. It was tough to get any new car after the war. That's a 1942 Olds Greg just posted.

I used to have a 1941 Oldsmobile. Olds had the hydromatic as well as Cadillac. There was a service manual put out by GM to order parts to retrofit cars for the vets who had lost limbs in the war. This included hand controls. It appears that this car was either ordered with this or dealer installed for use with a left leg.

Looks to be a Model 25-24 Standard roadster. It's been repainted at one point. Can't see the interior. Without a rumble seat I would say the price is high. Thanks for posting it.

Have a set of 4 that were on a 1968 Electra parts car. No center caps. SOLD

Have for sale the following for a 1968 Electra, NOS Rocker moldings (need little buffing)- $100 pair, Three hub caps- $50 for all, need cleaning, Rebuilt Holley carb 7259 AA $150, AM FM radio model 34B FM4 $50, NOS door skin for right door convertible or coupe $100, original black convertible top boot $100, original spare tire cover $50. ALL SOLD

I spoke to him last week. The car was sold and he couldn't get it out of the Bugle in time. I'm sure he's getting tired of his phone ringing. It was advertised on the net . It's almost impossible to get a good buy on a car today unless the car is overpriced at the start. The last car I bought at a nice opening price was only due to the owner not having a computer.

It was sold weeks ago. That was a very good buy if nothing was very wrong with it.

Hate to say it but it's not worth much at all. It needs everything. Somebody who is restoring one might want it or a rodder. A self restorer maybe. Mine was complete and all original and I paid two grand a while ago.

the only two door sedan made that year is a 29-20 on the 116" wheelbase. The car might be worth 11 grand redone so the asking price is steep to say the least. I had one. They painted it the wrong color. Maybe to make a taxi? It came in either green or blue with black fenders.

Maybe he's overtired? ( Sorry , i couldn't help myself ) Tires as stated earlier were very expensive back when these cars were new. I was after a late teens Packard that was sold to the second owner in 1919 and he couldn't afford to put new tires on it so he just put it in the barn. The now used car cost less then the tires. I PM'd the starter of this thread and he blocked me. I had a 32-90 that did this usually if I hit a hard bump. Thought this might have been my car. I found out on the net that he has a model 91. I believe it was due to the wire wheels not being in "tune" from the car sitting. The more I drove it the better it got. When I first bought the car I took it up to 65 mph on the highway. If it did it then I wouldn't be here today. Ah, to be young and naive (stupid) again!

Is it a two door sedan or a coupe?

IT's what's left of a 1927 Model 51 Brougham, a nice looker that used to be on my liked to have list. I had the 1924 version that looked a lot like this but was a fully complete car when I got it. You know you're in trouble when the car falls apart on the flatbed on the way home.

1925 Buick 45

It's a 1925 Buick. Probably a model 45 with a 6cylinder, 120" wheelbase , cost $1,395 new, weighed 3465 lbs, Buick made 5,203 of them. 701 for export. Early in the year they were all black. Mid year they were blue body with black fenders.

If you have an in line fuel filter between the carb and vacuum tank, take it out.

Kevin,,,, the 25-45 came with a sun visor from the factory and it's metal. Here are some pics of what it looks like

I was eight years old and we lived a half hour away from the fair. I'm a lot older now and still live a half hour away. BillP , the bowling ball thing that you see is the top of the "unisphere" which is also still there even though the "Bug" in "Men in Black" crashed into it. The building is blocking the bottom part. Here is the picture view around 12 minutes in. The brontosaurus is blocking the unisphere though. Lots of nice new cars to keep with the topic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZTdkl_jrCw

I vote for the Sinclair exhibit at the 1964 World's Fair in NY. Oh, and I am not a fan of "Classic Car dealers either. This was my hobby and I hate how big a business it has become. Just my opinion.

Your vacuum tank is not shutting off when it's full and gas is being sucked into the intake manifold. The symptom is exactly what you see. The car is running rich. Take off the vacuum line with the tank full and plug it on the manifold side. The car should run fine for a few minutes until the vac tank empties or you can reattach the line and suck more in. The float in your vacuum tank might be bad. Should not have gas in it. I had this problem on mine and seems like it's part of the initiation. Don't give up. You're almost there. I never had the problem again after I fixed it right. I had a 27 model 29 that I sold to my neighbor. It had this problem and I knew what it was right away. Fixed it and it was fine. He was afraid to drive this old car very far from home. These cars used to go across the country in much worse conditions. They are made to be maintained and repaired as needed. Owners manuals included the procedures and tool kits were supplied. You'll know your car very well soon enough. This is part of the experience. Now I feel like putting on my raccoon coat and going for a Sunday drive.

This is a 1931 Buick Model 57 five passenger sedan The first year for the straight 8 engine which is proudly hailed on the sidemount cover. I bet most of my fellow Buick collectors would drool over those covers if they still existed. The Grandmother looks just like my grandmother with the same hat, coat and foxes. When I was a little kid she still wore them and I was fascinated by them. Only wild animals I saw were in cartoons. She stored them away in a closet and after she passed my mother was quick to get rid of them. My grandparents never drove a car. Lived in NYC their whole life. Shouldn't be hard to find one of these. There are other bigger sedans for that year. The 67 looks the same. Great picture , thanks

Pete, Here are the originals. The glove box door looks like a different shade in one picture but it's not as you can see in the other picture of both. The wood trim on top of the dash doesn't look correct either. He might want to check that out too.