Rick Marsh

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Everything posted by Rick Marsh

  1. Good morning, I would like to thank all who replied and offered assistance. I now have a 1931 Chrysler CM6 that has been returned to the correct updraft configuration. It has never run better. I look forward to driving it on the Glidden Tour later this month. Thanks again
  2. Time for an update. I just got off the phone with a guy who says the Carter BB-1 will not fit. He stated the Chrysler CM6 came with a Stromberg updraft carb. So, does anyone have one of these puppies?
  3. I'm trying to get my 1931 Chrysler CM6 back to the original setup. It should be a carter BB-1 updraft. Who has one that they would like to part with? Thanks
  4. I guess I'll look for a Carter BB-1 and get back to you Thanks, Rick Marsh
  5. The intake and exhaust ports appear to be the same as in the photograph offered by Keiser31. I agree that my 1031 Chrysler CM6 should look like the image you shared of the engine compartment. That is the original setup with an updraft carb. I no longer have that. My car was converted by a previous owner to a downdraft carb setup. I assume the 1931 Dodge setup you have requires an updraft carb. Do you have the carb that goes with the Dodge intake and exhaust? Do you also have the air cleaner? Thanks, Rick Marsh
  6. I have a broken beyond repair exhaust manifold on my 1931 Chrysler CM6. A previous owner "upgraded" with PN 603033 which is either an early 1930s Chrysler or DeSoto. I'm in need of a PN 603033 replacement or an intake / exhaust pair that fits the stud pattern. It is two parallel rows of mounting studs with 23 1/4" from front to rear stud. Thanks in advance for any help. Rick Marsh
  7. OK, I'm back and the tour in Wilmington was a great outing. I went back out to the garage and the Chrysler decided to not start. After much aggravation there was some trash in the fuel line. Now that it starts and runs, I drained the oil and put in 4 1/2 quarts of 10W30. It runs about 60 Lbs when cold. I have not gotten it up to temperature yet and will do that in the next day or two. The attached images are of the oil pressure valve. I'll want to see what my pressure is at normal engine temp before I pull any wire and start turning things.
  8. Ok, I'm back in town and you all have given me much to think about. One other observation I failed to share is that the engine starts right up when cold and the oil pressure reads high, often 60 Lbs. It slowly degrades as the engine warms up getting down to the 5 Lbs range and doesn't noticeably change when warm. I think I should do the following in this order. 1. Take a closer look at the oil pressure adjustment on the side of the block. One source tells me they are dependent on which of three available springs are installed. The other source suggests that it can be adjusted by turning (clockwise for more and counterclockwise for less) 2. If that doesn't work, then I should move on to dropping the pan and looking to a possible oil pump rebuild. I could also at that time drop a cap to see if I have inserts or babbits. 3. If I still have an oil pressure issue, I guess the bearings are next. I'll precede all of this by draining and filling with a multiweight detergent oil and post any observed changes. I'll probably use Pennzoil 10W30. I'll be heading to Wilmington for the SE Divisional Tour this afternoon so it will be next Friday when I get back to the Chrysler. My thanks to all of you for the feedback to date.
  9. Thanks for the .002" clearance statement. Know I know what the clearance should be. It still leaves the question of inserts or babbits. I'll answer the other comments with a little history. When I bought the car, it ran and was in need of some TLC. Oil pressure was about 35 to 40 LBs. I went through the brakes and the cooling system first. I then focused on the engine and the oil was very black. Rather than just changing it, I dropped the pan, cleaned it out and replaced the old pan gasket. I also pulled the pressure valve out of the side, inspected it for debris buildup of which there was none and put it back in the side of the crankcase. I did not change the oil filter because there is not one on the engine. (I anticipate putting on an oil filter from a 1950 Chrysler at a later date). I filled the crankcase with straight 30 weight heavy duty detergent oil and started it back up. I've had this oil pressure problem ever since. Obviously, cleaning things up uncovered something and it could well be the bearings or, perhaps, something simpler.
  10. Gentlemen, Thanks for getting back to me. I'm running straight 30 weight HD oil. I have previously dropped the pan, cleaned out what was less than 1/2 cup of junk in the bottom of the pan and replaced the pan gasket. I pulled the adjuster out of the side of the block at that time, it looked clean and I put it back in. I've had this oil pressure issue since. I'll start knocking on doors as to who can do a babbit job for me.
  11. I've got a 1931 Chrysler CM6 sedan that runs well with good compression. It starts the morning at 40 Lbs or better of oil pressure and deteriorates as engine temp comes up. After a few miles, I'm down to 5 lbs on the gauge. 1. I swapped the gauge and confirmed the pressure drop. 2. I'm told the pressure is adjustable. The owners manual says the adjustment is via a spring change. 3. Two "experts" have told me I need to drop the pan and change out the crankshaft bearings. I have no maintenance manual ( only a detailed owners manual) and feel some questions need answering before I dive in. This is the first year for this engine design. Did Chrysler use inserts this far back? Are the bearing clearances .001, .002 or what? What are the torque specs for the bolts in the bearing caps? Thanks in advance, Rick Marsh
  12. I looked all over to find replacement axle seals. Most sources are unable to look up a replacement based on OD and axle dia. Then I found Darryl Zimmerman at EX Bearing in Litiz, Pa. It took him a whole ten minutes or maybe less to find the necessary seals. My 1931 Chrysler is back on the road. Darryl can be reached at 717-568-8800. or bearings@ptd.net
  13. Thank you very much for the response. I have a slide hammer and am going after an adapter for the proper hook to do the pull. The two part numbers I referenced were from my parts book and I am going by the description with no supporting pictures. I am assuming that the felt is pn 43053 and the retainer 43004 would be the round metal receiver. I'll do the pull this weekend and then start chasing down a replacement seal. Thanks again, Rick Marsh
  14. I have a 1931 Chrysler CM6 that has developed a leak in the right rear. It appears to be a worn axle seal. Other vehicles I've owned had an axle seal that was either a rubber core or leather. My parts book tells me this is a two part assembly consisting of a felt seal about 1/2" thick Pn 43053 and a oil seal retainer Pn 43004. Has anyone else been down this road? I would like to pull the old part out but, obviously, I do not wish to damage the retainer. The axle also has two bearing, back to back with races. The race with the outer bearing comes out with the axle. The inner race is still firmly inside the axle housing. I am assuming someone has been down this road before. What did you learn? Thanks, Rick Marsh
  15. Hello Mr. Gray, I am involved in a 1934 CV restoration and would be more than happy to talk with you about anything you may feel is available. I looked you up in the Airflow Club registry. I'll call you later today. Have a good day, Eric Marsh North Carolina
  16. Good evening Dennis Jones, We do a display at each of our AACA National Meets. People are most familiar with the restored vehicles in class judging. Each is supposed to represent how a vehicle left the dealer with factory authorized accessories. Back in 1988 we expanded to include vehicles with original features. This is our rolling library and is the Historic Preservation of Original Features class (HPOF). Vehicles are only original once so this is something special. Around 2000 we expanded to include those vehicles that are 25 years and older that are driven vehicles. This Driver Participation Class (DPC) is quite popular because for a smaller investment, you can enjoy an antique vehicle. The vehicle can have some deviations from original but is still expected to reflect the era. A modern radio would be acceptable but mag wheels would not be acceptable for example. I'm fortunate enough to have a vehicle for each class and enjoy them for what they represent. My DPC vehicle is also a daily driver. Why drive a new car when you can drive an antique.? Rick Marsh
  17. OK boys and girls, I displayed a car and helped judge this last weekend at the AACA National Meet in Auburn. This left me time to get around and see nearly all of the vehicles on the field including 15 vehicles from the Classic Car Club as this was a joint meet. Lots of good looking vehicles and lots of proud owners whether they were chasing a trophy or not. I spoke to nearly every owner in classes 27K,L,&M because these are the classes that cover 1973 to 1978 vehicles which may have come with Alpha series radials. This effort placed two more names on the registry of AACA owners who would like these tires to see a production date. I've now been to the Forum, Speedster, the Rummage Box and the Buick Club. I'll continue to talk with each owner at each National Meet that I attend. What I don't quite have the answer to is the following. The owners of the 1920s cars, some years ago and without the internet were able to band together and get their tires into production. The sports car guys got together and got their radials into production. Within the last two years, the Corvette guys got together and got the GR70-15 in production by working with Kelsey Tire. So why is it that the 1973 to 1978 production AACA car owners cannot move from "I" can't to "We" can't ? I spent a whole career fixing problems. The six years we are talking about is only 5% of the years displayed at each meet. I'm committed to fixing this supply issue. I'd appreciate some help in spreading the word.
  18. Hello Mr. Sweet, There is not a short answer but, I will attempt to keep it short. If the exact tire you seek is not currently in production, I suggest you seek a period correct tire that is being produced. Example: a 1978 Lincoln with an LR78R-15 is not in production. Lucas is advertizing a 235/ 75R-15 white wall tire. So this would be very close to the same size and it is the same type. There was an article about this in the Antique Automobile Magazine last year, I believe the May issue, that gives you more detail on this subject. Thnaks, Rick Marsh
  19. Hello Mr. Sweet, We put an article in the Antique Automobile magazine in May of 2016 which addressed this very issue. In the case of vehicles from the 70s, radials were being produced in parallel to alpha radials. A conversion chart will identify which of the parallel (period correct) tires are applicable. Example a LR78/15 versus a 235R75/15.
  20. Wow! Where do I start. Reread the initial start of this thread and the contact for building this registry is Me. Send your location information, type of vehicle and desired tire size and I'll add you to the registry. If you want to contact the DOT, the contact is ....????? In the meantime, have you considered displaying your AMC in the DPC.? That is where I display my 1964 Barracuda. OBTW, the correct conversion for DR78/14s is 185/75R14s not the P-metrics which came later.
  21. Good afternoon, I started this thread back on March 06 in order to gather information into a registry of vehicle owners from the mid 70s who wish to restore their vehicles to the original state including the tires. In the past, owner of vehicles from the 20s did this on their own. In the past, the owners of sports cars collected the information and that statement of demand translated into several suppliers stepping up to the need. rons49, I am trying to work this issue by building an owners list as you will find if you reread the original post of 06 March 2017. If, however, you wish to complain about AACA using this thread, I am not a good audience. Rick Marsh
  22. Good morning bdilljr, I would look for better detailed information than the service manual before purchasing tires. A copy of the owner's manual or a copy of the sales literature will more clearly identify what was the standard and what options were available as to tires for your Dodge. Eric Marsh
  23. Good morning Mr. Farrell, I applaud you on the efforts on the Mercury. Some cars are much more difficult to do than others. I'm restoring a 1934 Airflow and a Packard or a Buick would have probably been easier. Yes, I would like to build a registry of AACA owner vehicles needing Alpha radial tires. I also recognize that this is a small number of owners and all the more reason why a grouping will offer advantages. I also caution looking at AACA only through the lenses of the judged vehicles. This is an expensive side of the hobby and many young people have other financial priorities. I was one of those when in my 30s and 40s the college tuition bill took priority over the Pontiac I owned. I find many young AACA members embrace the DPC and HPOF side and I see young families coupling their family vacation with an AACA National Tour.
  24. Hello Jim Jones, The P-Metric was not a replacement for the alpha radial. We as a nation started down the road in the late seventies to convert to the metric system. We were already making numeric identity radials (first introduced in 1945). The folks in Akron were not convinced that we should make the change so they created parallel production and called them P-Metric. The EuroMetric radial and the P-Metric are nearly dimensionally the same. P-Metrics initially were the new tire so that is where the new formulations were tried out. The alpha series radials were dropped because it was too much variation within the inventory thereby driving up cost. P-Metrics were introduced in 1979 and have run in parallel with Eurometric radials ever since. Some manufacturers even have both on their newest offerings as model dependent. As to the deduction, we only have one rule on the judging field and that is the vehicle should look the way it did when it left the dealer with factory authorized accessories. If you hear an owner complaining about a large deduction, it most often is because they are more focused on the trophy than on the authenticity of the restoration. I’m trying to collect enough data in a owner registry so that we can get they alpha radials back into manufacture. That is the primary reason for this subject thread. If you want to help, I would appreciate it. I can always use all the help I can get. If you are looking for a sounding board for complaints, I am not a candidate. I personally know plenty of young people who have come into this hobby. They are attracted to AACA because of our openness, our depth of knowledge, our love of the hobby and our commitment to the history (authenticity) of vehicles that came from factories. Many of them have no use for class judging because of the time and expense. You will find many of them in DPC, HPOF and on the tours. See you down the road, Eric Marsh