Bob Stein

The cam and crank sensors are both new, so hopefully they will be OK.

I have most of the parts for the factory external sun visor, but the center support rod assembly that attaches to the cowl at the back of the hood 'V' was bad and came part when I removed the visor painting. That was 12 years ago - can anyone provide photos of the mounting points (side and center) so I can try to duplicate or fabricate the items? Or if yo have the hardware on a parts visor, I would be glad to buy them.

Long-time AACA/TRAACA member Jeff Locke of Chesapeake VA passed away this morning, July 5, 2018, following an extended illness. A familiar face at National Meets and a popular presenter of seminars on classic and antique vehicles at Philadelphia, Jeff had a tremendous knowledge of the automobile hobby. He regularly participated in National Meets both as a judge and showing his own vehicles, ranging from HPOF mopeds to his 1974 Chevrolet Suburban.

A friend with a local shop offered to have his mechanic replace the camshaft and crankshaft sensors in my Reatta to solve an intermittent Engine Electrical Code error (41). When I went to pick it up, it turned out the magnet had fallen out when they pulled the sensor, so now I had a constant Engine Electrical Control error. They had fished out the magnet, but did not have time to pull the front of the engine to install the new magnet. I used the recommended shortcut method this past weekend and it worked great - 20 minutes and I am back to the intermittent code. Frustrating, since I have replaced (in order) the oil sending unit, O2 sensor, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, and the magnet. However, while sitting at a light, I turned on the gauges and saw the oil pressure jump from 42 psi to 67 psi and back at a steady 900 RPM idle. So the new oil pressure sensor must have been defective. I have an AC/Delco unit on the way and am hoping that will finally clear the issue.

Thank you for the well-thought-out and informative reply. A lot of work and forethought went into the email.

I used my Reatta during recent snow as it is my best bad-weather car. However, the driver's side door molding, which had been removed for a repaint, had never been reattached tot he center clips and would wiggle in the center. The bad weather turned out to be too much for the end stud, and one broke off. I was able to save the molding, and reattached this past weekend using 3M molding tape and weather-strip adhesive. First thing was cleaning and compounding the painted surface to remove all debris and loose paint, then a wipedown with brake cleaner for the body and molding attaching surface.. I put the thin molding tape on the top and bottom mounting strips, allowing an extra several inches to hang out past the front, and ran a thick bead of weatherstrip adhesive down the center where it would (hopefully) contact the clip studs on the door. I let the adhesive set up, then trimmed the weatherstrip tape at the front leaving the plastic protective cover as pull-tabs. I positioned the molding and then pulled the top tape protector up to reveal the adhesive, pressing as I went. That secured the molding, and I repeated the procedure for the bottom. It stayed straight and level, and fits completely flush. I may try to hit a local scrap yard for some spare moldings just in case. There is a Reatta close by, though it has been pretty well stripped. Has all the glass, though.

Has anyone tried the new replacement LED headlights for the 6054 bulbs? I expect they would be considerably brighter than our halogen replacements. One of the concerns mentioned is that they are a little deeper than standard 6054 units - that could cause an issue with the headlight mechanisms.

My 1937 Pontiac had a mild heating problem when I bought it back in 2012. It would start to overheat at speeds over 50, but did fine below that. I tried many things over the years, from the obvious radiator check and water pump replacement to more obscure items like replacing the distributor. As time passed, the problem only got worse, and recently it started losing coolant, something it had never done before. After the third water pump and second radiator, I discovered some oily black residue in the thermostat housing just a hundred miles after I had flushed and cleaned the system. I decided the head gasket must be leaking - when I went to pull it, I discovered the head bolts were barely more than finger tight! I had never thought to re-torque the head bolts after I bought the car, which had been used for tours and many long drives by the previous owners. When I pulled the head, I found coolant between the gasket and the block. After having the head resurfaced, I installed a new copper sandwich head gasket and torqued it all down to 70 foot-pounds. A test drive at 55-60 brought the car up to 195 degrees where it stayed, dropping back to 180 after I got off the interstate. No coolant loss, no leaks. The head gasket issue crept up on me with none of the obvious signs - no bubbles in the coolant, no coolant loss until near the end, no external seepage around the head gasket, and a not a drop of water in the oil or vice-versa. This last was likely because of it being a flathead engine with no oil passages in the head. Anyway, the highway speed overheating problem that has plagued the car as long as I owned it appears to be solved!

What would be the correct engine color for a 1937 Pontiac 6? Mine is gray, and I have seen restorations with a gray engine, but the Bill Hirsch site does not show a gray for Pontiacs. They show a green for 1937. Were the 8s green and the 6s gray? Thanks!

I have been looking for the 2017 Hershey Meet Car Show registration information, but even the Hershey Region site has nothing on it besides a small version of the poster. I'd like to get the flyer and form for the car show so I can pass along registration deadlines to my region.

I read books constantly when I was a kid, and books about cars were my favorite. 'The Red Car' by Don Stanford fueled my love of MG TCs, a real one of which is now the pride and joy of an admittedly eclectic collection. One that I remember reading but cannot come up with the title for was about a group of teenagers who take on the restoration of a classic car - I believe it was a Hispano-Suiza touring car. The author went into detail on the style and fittings of the car, and the details of restoring it to include saddle-soaping and re-dying the leather upholstery. I believe there was some sort of rally event as well. Anyone recall the book and the title?

I currently have two RHD cars: A 1949 MG TC (Wildflower) and a 1978 MGB-GT (Rodney). One of the main concerns people seem to have is shifting with the left hand - it really is not a big deal. I got used to it very quickly. I have more trouble with the turn signal lever in the GT, which is on the right. I keep signaling turns by engaging the windshield wipers! However, passing, as mentioned in a previous post, can be harrowing. The right-side position is made worse by the small size of the car. You can't see over the vehicle in front of you unless it is a go-kart! I have learned to wait for a clear approach or just let the guy ahead of me set the pace. I drive both on the Interstate, and get a lot of double-takes and thumbs-up.

Having attended the 2017 Annual Membership Meeting in Philadelphia this past weekend, I want to share an image that I think exemplifies the character of the man we are fortunate enough to have as our 2017 National President. It may not look like much - in fact, it doesn't even look like he is doing anything connected with AACA, discussing a lapful of vintage vinyl records with a young man obviously too young to own an antique car. What makes this image special to me is that is was taken right after the afternoon round table where Tom, along with the entire AACA National Board and staff, endured public insult and condemnation by individuals who later admitted they were ignorant of the facts concerning what they were complaining about. Tom not only responded to uncalled for and inappropriate comments with intelligence and courtesy, he explained a complex situation in a manner that was not offensive, disrespectful, or adversarial to anyone. It was a very stressful and unpleasant way to spend what should have been a time to honor and express much-deserved appreciation to our outgoing and incoming National Presidents and officers. Immediately after this meeting, Tom was approached by a young AACA member who wanted to share his latest interest - vinyl records. Most people would have still been reeling from the turmoil, but Tom not only acknowledged the young man; he sat down and talked to him at length over this new passion. A lot of AACA members talk about inspiring and encouraging future generations - Tom Cox leads by example.

1953 Ford Customline Sedan – $13500 OBO - Fully restored with many upgrades. V-8, A/C, overdrive, beautiful car ready to drive anywhere. Over $23K spent on restoration. 25K miles on rebuilt engine. $13,500 or best offer. Call Dewey Milligan at 757-404-4689 or email dewmaxmilligan@cox.net. Located in Chesapeake, VA. Tidewater Region AACA Many more images available at: http://www.caroholic.com/53_crestliner

1930 Model A Ford Deluxe Sedan – $17500 OBO - Fully restored and upgraded for trouble-free touring. Recent rebuilt touring engine, rebuilt transmission, and rebuilt overdrive unit. Sixty-amp alternator, signal lights, manifold heater, and fog lights. Has comfortable bucket seats installed for touring, but includes stock front seat. Recent, new and correct interior throughout. Sidemount spare, trunk and trunk rack, cowl lights. Over $23K invested plus many hours of personal work. Great car for touring - cruises easily at 60. Smooth, reliable show and go car. Drive anywhere. SOLD 01/15/2017

I just bought as 1958 MGA roadster in April as a project - not quite as much to do as you are facing, but my car sat for 30 years in a barn. I have the engine out and the engine bay stripped and primed. I'm in Norfolk, so maybe we can connect one day and compare notes!

Looking for any information, literature, manuals, etc. for a Bricklin Electric Bicycle Company 'EV Warrior' electric bicycle. These were essentially electric mopeds that could be used as a 6-speed road bike with electric assist or full electric drive. Built from 1993-1998 (approx). Top speed of 20, range up to 20 miles. Please contact Bob Stein email posti@aol.com or 757-588-6200.

Greetings, All! I scanned the 2016 Website registration form and put it in PowerPoint with text blocks. You can click on the text blocks and enter your text, then save the file as a .pdf to send in to National attached to an email. I cannot attach a PowerPoint file to posts, so email me at posti@aol.com and I will send it to you directly. Bob Stein Tidewater Region

A friend of mine has a 1991 Jeep Wagoneer he plans to put in class judging - He has owned the Jeep for 15 years, but is not sure if the hose clamps are original. What type of hose clamps would be correct for AACA class judging on this vehicle? He has researched this to the point of digging up original AMC parts books and other manufacturer's lietrature, but they show no photos of the hose clamps..

Hiya! I also got my letter yesterday. See ya' in Philly!

Nothing yet here either. Hope they let us know soon - need to plan for Philly and make reservations.

​I am unable to access the TRAACA web site again to FTP updates - this appears to be the same issue we ran into in June, and in January before that. I have sent emails and emailed the Help Desk, but they no longer provide weekend or evening support. In case you can't access your site and want to put in a ticket, the address is: HelpDesk@higherinfogroup.com Bob Stein Webmaster TRAACA

If you are suddenly having trouble accessing your web site to update using FileZilla or another FTP program, you may need to get the specific IP address from HIG. Their servers are not accepting the text-based hostname. Contact HIG Help Desk at HelpDesk@higherinfogroup.com For immediate assistance or to reach the Helpdesk directly, call 844-225-5444. Bob Stein Tidewater Region

My issue is not with the attempt to keep cars authentic, but the disparity with which penalties are assigned. I have correct tires on all but one of my antique cars, and it will never see a show field. However, when I see a car with 4 mag wheels win a first junior where a car that was otherwise totally correct but had incorrect tires would possibly not even get a third, I see a big problem. As a judge I always follow the rules set down by AACA, but I think the club Is way off base when it comes to tire deductions. There is no other judging item that is so inflexible.

I just came back from Charlotte, where my team judged a car with aftermarket mag wheels. These obviously incorrect items dramatically changed the appearance of the vehicle, especially with a similar car next to it that had the correct wheels. Yet the total deduction for the mags was 8 points, and both cars got the same award. In a time when you have to read the fine print on the tires (sometimes on the back side only) to tell that a tire is incorrect, why does AACA continue to force owners to spend ridiculous amounts of money on 'correct' tires? Paint can be modern multi-stage clear-coat, upholstery materials only have to match original appearance, numerous modifications can be made for 'safety,' and as already mentioned, the penalties for major items such as wheels are relatively minor. The appearance of a modern number-series radial can be nearly identical to that of a period letter-series radial, with only the embossed letters/numbers being different. Recent advances have even provided radial tires that look exactly like bias-ply tires. So, WHY does AACA put such a disproportionate penalty on tires?