Grimy

I've driven 1928 and 1931 Lincolns, although not recently. The 1928 did indeed drive like a truck perhaps because it had truck tires at the time. The 1931 was a delightful driving experience.

You're right--that's a wrong year emblem which I think is 1928-only.

Hope you can get it! While you have the front of the engine opened up for the water pump work, be sure to replace the pressed-silk-and-resin camshaft gear with an aluminum one (you'll have to have it made) because it's at the far end of its life irrespective of mileage. There may be still available a similar but fully restored (1923?) Paige Big Six sedan or limo in OH that seems to be from an estate. Was first mentioned here years ago at $135K (probably resto costs) but was last seen without the "1" --meaning $35k. If I were 10 years younger, I'd be tempted.

See my comments on the recent previous "not mine" thread on this car. Some bad news with engine photos: * Water pump shaft apparently has NOT been cut/modified. That is a 30" long shaft captive in the water pump. The shaft includes a spiral gear in the crankcase just ahead of the water pump which drives the distributor and the external oil pump. To remove the water pump for service, one must remove hood, headlights and bar, radiator and shell, fan pulley, timing cover, one timing gear driving that shaft (no chain), distributor, oil pump, and generator. Only then can one remove the pump and long shaft by moving toward the firewall. Ask me how I know! There's only about 1.5" clearance to access front packing. The Best Practice is to make a new shaft for water pump, cut down the old one with integral gear, and make a connection (I used recess in cut-down original shaft + tapered pin). * Rust stains from not only the two welsh plugs but also the head gaskets. * Carburetor is wrong for judging but arguably better than OEM Rayfield.

And of course, my favorite, cheap calf-high nylon stockings as coolant filters--install the closed toe through the upper neck of the radiator into the top tank, wrap the open end around the upper neck, held in place by the upper radiator hose.

Animal feeding syringes in various sizes from the pet store work well to fill shocks, steering boxes, and other small voids. Those with curved tips are especially useful for filling shocks.

Over the years previous owners have seen the zerk (or Alemite) fitting on the steering box have "assumed" (we all know what that means) that chassis grease was the proper lubricant--and it ISN'T! In fact, a lever-operated grease gun will usually blow the seals (just felt, in most cases). 600W is the correct lube. These cars were equipped with one-hand, pistol-grip dispensers (Pierce called them "compressor, grease" at a time when "grease" meant 600W, sometimes called "liquid grease") operated by pushing against an internal spring in the dispenser to deliver a small dollop (vs a large dollop 🙂) of 600W. That was how chassis fittings were lubricated as well. On such cars, I use a lever-operated grease gun and chassis grease on chassis fittings and 600W (or Penrite 1200 for leakers) in the steering box. Your owners manual may tell you 200 or 400 miles between "greasing" chassis fittings *using that factory-supplied dollop-dispensing tool*, but I find that a proper interval is 1,000 miles when a lever-operated grease gun dispensing chassis grease is used. I've replaced steering box fittings with plugs on my steering boxes for usage other than being judged.

With blackwalls.... 🙂

Full chrome on the Marmons' wheels seems to be the opposite of the chaste, less-is-more philosophy of the overall design. Chrome spokes, yes.

@leomara, thanks for this. I've found in one Pierce application that Gates dropped two belts completely and added one halfway between the two lengths. You might try a search for the old Gates number 614 and see if there's a NOS one on feebay. Tell me if you want the old number for the Imp 80 and I'll look it up in my paper copy.

I just looked those two 1928 vehicles up on the 2003 Gates catalog below. The 72 takes current number TR24403 and the Imp 80 TR24414. I couldn't find the bookmark I thought I set when I downloaded (someone a few weeks ago very kindly provided the URL) but you might search for Gates Vintage Car & Light Truck Belts & Hose Applications, includes 1989 and older applications Weatherly Index 400 Catalog No. 431-2050 August 2003 Edition Supersedes 31-2050 (1995) My old standby is the 1995 edition with the old 3-digit numbers which were converted to "TR" (truck & bus) about 2003. I have a paper copy in the shop I can check. *Good* parts houses have always been able to use the 3-number to convert to the TR. Hope this helps--let us know.

That's one possibility. On my 1939 Cadillac 75 which I owned for 42 years, the serial number was stamped into the top of the left frame rail (no photo available). To be able to see it, I had to remove the hood side panels (for you, only if your car is a Series 50--the more modern Series 52 had a different hood) and look down into the center of the hood opening. I used a wire brush to remove paint to make the number visible.

Since I had my 1946 MoToR Manual out anyway for a LaSalle question, I see that the 1938 Imperial Eight, C19, 128" wb, had a displacement of 298.6 cid, b&s 3.25 x 4.5, 110 bhp, but the 1938 New York Special Eight, C19* (asterisk not explained), also on 128" wb, had a displacement of 323.5 cid, b&s 3.25 x 4.875 for 130 bhp. The Custom Imperial Eight C20 on the 144" wb also used the 323.5 cid engine. 1938 seems to be the last usage of the 298.6 cid Eight.

According to my 1946 MoToR repair manual, for 1940 LaSalle "on crankcase behind left cylinder block and on left frame side bar opposite steering gear." That same book gives a *serial* (chassis) and engine (they are the same) number range *for Series 50* 2320001 to 2330082, and *Series 52* 4320001 to 4333751. 409176271 does not appear in Cad-LaS listings from 1935 through 1946, all of which have seven digits, whereas your number has nine digits. Could your number be a casting number?

Huh? What are you referring to, please?

@Karla welch I'm a life-long Californian except for military service and I have some cars with YOM plates, some that have plates in the yellow-on-black series continually assigned to that older-than-1963 car since 1963, and some on which I run Horseless Carriage (pre-1923 plus V-16s) and Historic Vehicle plates (>25 yrs old not used as daily transportation). Please understand the following: * if you run both "black plates" originally assigned to THAT car, you will have no restrictions on usage (see below) and will pay standard fees each year. The ad valorem part of your annual fees is based on the value declared at time of transfer--if you've already transferred, DMV may have assigned a book value since the car was a gift and have charged you use tax in lieu of sales tax (same % for both) because the donor was not a designated family member. In hindsight, for registering a gift car I think it's better to say you *paid* $300 or some other number to avoid book value. * If you buy other black plates and register them as YOM, you will need to pay full ad valorem each year PLUS a 'special plates' $10 fee plus an additional initiation fee of $35 or so. Imagine my surprise when my 1918 Pierce with "really valuable" YOM plates renewal registration came up at $949 (because it was expensive to buy). So I jumped for HC plates with a flat $2/year ad valorem, and display one of the 1918 plates on the front (technically illegal) and the other underneath the HC plate on the rear. There was no sticker for 1963 only because "63" was embossed in the tab area. * If you opt for Historic Vehicle (HV) plates, there's a (approx) $35 initial fee but you will have a flat $2 ad valorem in perpetuity. You will have to sign a DMV form saying you will use this vehicle **ONLY** for tours, club activities, and parades of public interest--eliminating Sunday drives, runs to Home Depot or the parts store, whatever--but that's NOT what the operative Section 5004 of the California Vehicle Code says: [I'm adding bold + underscore to highlight important words in Section 5004] Section 5004 Vehicles of Historic Value Vehicles of Historic Value 5004. (a) Notwithstanding any other provision of this code, any owner of a vehicle described in paragraph (1), (2), or (3) which is operated or moved over the highway primarily for the purpose of historical exhibition or other similar purpose shall, upon application in the manner and at the time prescribed by the department, be issued special identification plates for the vehicle: (1) A motor vehicle with an engine of 16 or more cylinders manufactured prior to 1965. (2) A motor vehicle manufactured in the year 1922 or prior thereto. (3) A vehicle which was manufactured after 1922, is at least 25 years old, and is of historic interest. (b) The special identification plates assigned to motor vehicles with an engine of 16 or more cylinders manufactured prior to 1965 and to any motor vehicle manufactured in the year 1922 and prior thereto shall run in a separate numerical series, commencing with "Horseless Carriage No. 1". The special identification plates assigned to vehicles specified in paragraph (3) of subdivision (a) shall run in a separate numerical series, commencing with "Historical Vehicle No. 1". Each series of plates shall have different and distinguishing colors. (c) A fee of twenty-five dollars ($25) shall be charged for the initial issuance of the special identification plates. Such plates shall be permanent and shall not be required to be replaced. If such special identification plates become damaged or unserviceable in any manner, replacement for the plates may be obtained from the department upon proper application and upon payment of such fee as is provided for in Section 9265. (d) All funds received by the department in payment for such identification plates or the replacement thereof shall be deposited in the California Environmental License Plate Fund. (e) These vehicles shall not be exempt from the equipment provisions of Sections 26709, 27150, and 27600. (f) As used in this section, a vehicle is of historic interest if it is collected, restored, maintained, and operated by a collector or hobbyist principally for purposes of exhibition and historic vehicle club activities. Amended Ch. 918, Stats. 1984. Effective January 1, 1985. Note the word "principally" is used, not "exclusively" as would seem to be indicated by the language of the DMV form. To me, 51% is "principally." But on such cars, I go to the DMV's own website and download and print (latter so the current date shows on the printed page) Section 5004 in its entirety and keep that page clipped to my registration document. I've never been challenged on that. I would hope that I would be able to talk a police officer out of issuing a questionable ticket, and I doubt that Sec 5004 is in the abridged CVC that motorcycle officers carry. If you have antique auto insurance, one requirement of which is that the car is not a Daily Driver (DD), that's further evidence on your behalf. My recommendation for you on what you've told us *IF* you'll use it as a DD: Run regular modern issue plates and find a single 1963 black plate to put on the front for special occasions only. If it's not a DD, put HV plates on it and a 1963 front plate but carry the other HV plate with you.

Thanks, John. My acquisition days are over 🙂 or I could be tempted. The photos show California architecture, so I question whether the vehicle is actually in Chicago. If the car is in Northern California, I could probably be persuaded to go look at it for expenses. I'm suspicious that there are no underhood photos. The other major failing of these cars is the fiber cam gear ("pressed silk and resin" per the literature) which has to be replicated in aluminum as mine has been. The four gears are direct mesh--no chain. What sometimes happens is that new owners try to start a long dormant engine suffering from stuck water pump or valves, thereby stripping the original cam gear (not me, mine had an aluminum gear when I acquired it 23 years ago).

Got signs?

Moreover, there are *many* 6V cars using *positive* ground, my Pierces among them--and Fords, MoPaRs, and pre-1946 Cads. I strongly prefer that we speak of 'ground side' vs 'hot side' so I don't have to go through the text and correct for my cars--except my Jeepster is indeed 6V negative ground.

Consider checking the integrity of any flex line between the hard fuel line and the pump. These deteriorate from the inside out, and can pull in outside air (interrupting fuel flow) without leaking fuel out where it can be seen.

Thank you @Bloo. Doesn't seem right for my intended purpose.

Don't pack up, @dodge28!! No worries! I was looking for something to add to 600W to slow down inevitable leaks from old seals that I'm getting too old to replace! 🙂

Thanks @dodge28 I'd be interested in that for rubber lube purposes.

Please define "poly grease."

Uh yeah, isn't the door open while you're connecting the battery on that VW? Pull the bulb in the dome light.