Grimy

The anti-freeze aspect is unimportant to me in the SF Bay Area, and my experience is that EG anti-freeze foams at speed in unpressurized systems--even those in good condition, so for the past 20 years I've been using distilled or deionized water plus Pencool (formerly Nalcool), a big rig additive with anti-corrosion, anti-cavitation, and water pump lube properties. The company ("Penray") suggests Pencool 2000 for water-only systems, and Pencool 3000 for systems using a partial or full (50%) dose of anti-freeze. I suspect that the additive pack is richer in the 2000 because some additive is already in the anti-freeze. I'm very satisfied with the performance: radiators remain clear after as much as 8-10 years when I change hoses as preventive maintenance. Initial dosage rate is 1 oz per quart of cooling system capacity, with a much, much smaller makeup dose rate. I add about 2-3 oz to a gallon water jug (25-50% less than initial dose) to carry in the cars as top-off. I do carry a couple of gallons of 100% EG in the trailer in case a multi-day tour will involve freezing temps overnight. I can't find it locally, so I buy quantities (the 64-oz jug is the most convenient for me) on Amazon. I'm told that "Fleet-Guard" from Navistar/International dealers is the same thing.

@alsancle I prefer the stocking because it's better at catching fine particles. One of my cars had Iowa lime deposits plus the previous owner had used a lot of soluble oil. Either or both resulted in what I can only describe as *sludge* being captured by the stocking, and it would have easily passed through a Gano--which I used to use.

We definitely want the Evaporust to come up to full engine operating temperature, so--if necessary because of low temps without t'stat--use a piece of cardboard to block off air to part of the radiator. With the inline tstat removed the big chunks will travel better "uphill" to be captured by the stocking in the top tank. Also, the amount of debris in the stocking will let you guess when to remove and flush the stocking again.

I always remove the thermostat AND (this is important) use a stocking filter in the top tank of the radiator to catch all the dislodged junk that would otherwise clog your radiator. If you're not familiar with the stocking filter procedure, use the search function on this site, as it's been discussed many times. You will probably need to drain off a few quarts every couple of hours of runtime, remove the upper hose, remove the stocking and flush out the crud under a faucet, then re-install the stocking and upper hose and drained Evaporust.

Bernie, you've been working too much on modern iron of late. I can't speak for 1940 Buicks, but all Pierces have vented caps--except those with pressurized fuel tanks, of course. I'm always careful to specify large diameter *fuel* hose when hose is needed to connect a filler neck to a tank, TYVM.

Try a Wix #51004 (NAPA Gold #1004), very common for these aftermarket filters, I have a car that uses it. Dimensions per the Wix catalog are H=4.809, OD=3.984, ID=0.765 [edit] You may need to push the lid down against the spring(s) to get the lid bolt started.

OD of *cartridge* tube was given as 3/4 in your first post. Which is it? I'll get back to the book later today.

That's fine if the tank has a top vent. On the cars I described, there's nowhere for the displaced air to go if the nozzle's seal is perfect.

I just retrieved from my shop my ol' faithful 1997 Wix Master Catalog and checked the dimensional listings against what you reported in your initial post. No joy. IF you can use calipers to give more precise numbers, I'll check again. FYI, 4-digit "NAPA Gold" part numbers seem to be the same as Wix numbers, but with the initial Wix digit "5" removed.

I have TWO lid gaskets on mine, one above and one below the flange of the inner tank, but have seen one-gasket tank models as well. Look for seats that have come unstaked on the suction and atmospheric valves, and has been mentioned, that they operate sharply and in sync--one must be closed when the other is open. Clean any whiskery corrosion from those needles and seats. Integrity (cracks or splits) of vacuum supply line and fittings from intake manifold?

Same response!! Please DON'T!!! Not even the plaid shorts you used to wear to PAS banquets, either.....

Oh, Lord NO!

My 1934 and 1936 Pierces have a vent (hose) extending from the upper vertical side of the tank into the filler neck. That is, the tank vents into the filler neck rather than directly into the atmosphere. This is a problem because today's emissions-preventing fuel nozzles create a seal where the nozzle enters the filler neck. Accordingly, when fueling I have to use two fingers on one hand to compress the spring making the seal (to trick it into thinking there is a seal) while the other hand squeezes the nozzle. Even then, I have to fill more slowly than on other cars. If you use emissions-preventing fuel nozzles, ensure there is an air gap between the nozzle and the inside diameter of the filler neck.

Don, I remember not only the Buick "bell," but also the distinctive rattle of worn-out shock links that could be heard a block away 🙂

Shape of radiator shell looks like White, too.

Always do the easiest, least-invasive diagnostics first!

Yes! Where are you? I'm in SF Bay Area. I find on pre-war cars which have spark control, a lot of initial advance results in rough idle, so I'll retard the spark via lever on steering wheel or dash when a smooth idle is desired--and *definitely* for starting. So if you (probably) don't have spark control from driver's seat, you may not be able to get as much initial advance as you think you want. Set for what works best for you and the kind of driving you'll be doing.

I like some extra initial advance, too, but as @Lee H says, it can result in pinging under hill climbing or hard starting. That's *best* done when you can retard the spark for starting or under load from the dash, probably not available on your tug. In my long-ago youth when we used to do "power tuning" by advancing the distributor to max vacuum, after reaching max vac, we'd then retard at least 0.5 inch, usually 1 inch of mercury. So if max vac was 20.0, we'd set distributor to 19.0-19.5 inches then test drive. If pinging or hard starting resulted, we'd back off another half-inch of mercury. Suggest you test drive and see what works best for you.

Next time try "the Loneliest Road" US 50 E-W across Nevada. Once would have been enough, but I've done it twice so far. About seven mountain (small) ranges to cross, with about 30 miles of flat between them. Keeps you awake when towing a trailer 🙂

Absolutely! "Detergent" is a misnomer--"dispersant" is more accurate. These dispersant "HD" oils hold solid contaminants in suspension rather than allowing them to sediment out not only in the oil pan but also in crankshaft oil passages and oil galleries. I will again post photos of "crank turds" being pushed from a friend's Pierce-Arrow crankshaft after decades of non-detergent/non-dispersant oils. How much oil do you think was getting through this mess? Today's HD oils, including multigrades, will not turn loose deposits to clog oil galleries and crankshafts but will prevent further deposits from forming. FWIW, I use Shell Rotella T-4 (dino) SAE 15W-40 in all my collector cars in my signature.

True. But from 1932 forward, they had 342 sq in of swept area, substantially more than a Cad V-16. 1933-35 have the S-W inertial power brakes driven off the rear of the transmission meaning the faster you go, the more assist you have--but backing downhill into a parallel parking slot is terrifying at first. I speculate that the reason the S-W system (supplemental on R-R until the early 1950s) was abandoned is that the pedal did not drop as the linings wore, which can result in an unpleasant surprise; I adjust my 1934's wheel brakes every 3,000 miles. 1936-38 Pierces had vacuum power assist.

Brian, could you please copy and paste for the benefit of those who aren't members of this group and prefer not to join just to see this one topic?

And Pierce-Arrow licensed the Hispano 4-wheel brake technology for its cars, beginning with 1924 models. The problem with front wheel *mechanical* brakes was that of finding the means to allow equalized braking on both inside and outside front wheels during turns, as the outside wheel covered much more ground.

**In California** where you are, ad valorem (value-based tax) is charged on every auto but is limited to $2/year for (1) Historic Vehicle (HV) plates (>25 yrs old, not used as Daily Driver) and (2) Horseless Carriage (HC) plates (pre-1923 year model + 16-cyl autos thru 1963 (?), also not used as DD). Regular registration for cars and trucks (not trailers) + YOM plates pay full ad valorem based on the price you attested to when you transferred the car into your name (see more below). The value on which the ad valorem is based drops by a percentage (2.5%?) every year until it stops at 20 yrs in your name. The latter is unfair IMHO: The 26-yr-old truck I bought new is now ad valorem-taxed at 50% of its new price although by no means is its 2024 value that high, and if you bought a new $100K Mercedes 20 yrs ago you'd be taxed as if it were still worth $50K. In your case, because the VW was not an eligible familial gift, DMV assigned a value based on a value guide (or perhaps their reading of goat entrails), and that value is your "basis" for descending tax over the next 19 years. As to "someone in the group," you may be thinking of my comment early on in which I reported that my 1918 Pierce with YOM plates had a huge annual ad valorem (>$830) because of what I paid for it--after buying it from the previous 29-year owner; accordingly, I opted for HC plates but (unlawfully) display one of the 1918 YOM plates on the front and carry the other HC plate under the seat. Personally (and this will be your own value judgment), assuming this is a hobby car not a DD, I'd go for HV plates with the $2 annual ad valorem in perpetuity. I'd have a repro plate made to match the original and display it on the front. I'd also ask the previous owner to contact me and hand over the original plates when they no longer want them. For the latter, you MUST keep some documentation that the specific numbers were assigned to that car--for example, an old registration or copy of title. Hope this helps, and hope you have a wonderful time with the VW!

In the late 1950s, we would periodically experience gas wars in Oakland, CA. The cheapest I ever paid at Simas Brothers (small local chain) was 15.9 CENTS per gallon, of which 12 cents was tax. Of course, I was was making $1.00/hr at another station. The good ol' days..... 🙂