hilgretasmom1

I am not new to the hobby but new to Hudson. I am authenticating a 1940 Hudson Business Coupe that I have interest in purchasing. The body number is 4059378. The engine number is 165610. Is it possible in the Hudson world to know if the car was born with this engine? Or can one only know that it falls within the range of engine numbers for that model and year? Either way can someone help me with this?

I am looking for a 1936 Chrysler Salesman's Book which contains the 8 cylinder cars. You may respond privately to nmbecker@comcast.net

There is a new listing on Ebay for a 1951 Kaiser Dealer Banner. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1951-Kaiser-Dealer-Banner/254618910052

Do you have any of the brake adjustment tools left? If so, how do I obtain one?

Body-off concours restoration. Mackinaw gray with red/white leather interior and black Haartz top. Rebuilt engine with correct aluminum round cornered head. 3 speed manual with overdrive. Power brakes, steering, top and antenna. Everything works but the clock. AACA Senior and National Award Winner (2017). Multiple Concours awards. $69,995. 904 635 3548

I believe the Airflow Club sells these seals.

I am looking for item # 6 on the image below from the Mopar parts book.

I am looking for the pattern that would have come with the installation instructions for this heater that shows the proper placement for the holes that need to be drilled through the firewall for the three mounting studs and the two water pipes. The Model 37 heater is one of several models available for a '42 Chrysler. The part number for this heater was 951337.

C49r, My hood and springs are installed. I need to get the springs off. Thank you.

How do you remove the hood springs on a '42 Chrysler Royal Business Coupe? They are under much tension whether the hood is up or down. It appears they need to be unhooked from the bottom while underneath the car but are way too strong to grab with a normal tool to unhook. Thanks in advance.

I am looking for the manufacturer (part number) of the correct color red for the engine block and head. Hirsch does not make this color.Thanks in advance.

Thank you jpage

Did 1940 Dodge passenger cars come in metallic colors? I have found a Ditzler paint chart for 1940 Dodge colors but none of the colors are noted as "poly" which was a typical indication for metallic in the era. I am specifically trying to determine if a dark green with a very fine metallic was used.

The lens pictured is the right hand lens. The word "right" is cast into the lens but is hard to see with the garnish molding in place. There are allegedly prismatic differences left for right but I will rarely, if ever, drive the car at night. I have found an NOS pair of lenses for.....................................$2500!

The lens is for a 1934 Chrysler CY Airflow. The CY was produced in Canada and was actually A Desoto with Chrysler trim. Only 444 were produced. The headlight lens has an indentation running from top to bottom to accommodate a garnish molding. None of the headlight lens dealers have a lens for this car. Short of stumbling across this rare item, having one made using the one example I have as a mold may be the only option. I apologize that the image is upside down.

I have a headlight lens that needs a mate. Does anyone know of someone who can cast one out of glass using mine as a mold?

Was blue windshield washer fluid available in the 50's? If not, what is the correct color, or one that will not get a point deduction, for a 50's car?

Thank you very much!

Does anyone have a part number for a National Bearing or other contemporary bearing manufacturer for a C38/39 rear axle bearing/cup?

I am looking for a source for the thick black paper-like material used to insulate the trunk floor under the trunk carpet for a '46-'48 Chrysler Town and Country.

What turned out to be the problem? Make this a teachable moment.

Guys, This afternoon I borrowed a heavier hammer. When I got home I gave the ears on the puller (left under tension since I started this thread) two half hearted blows as I did not expect a different result. The drum popped off. I went to the other side expecting a fight and had it off in minutes. I did spray PB Blaster on the ends of both keyways yesterday and let it soak over night. Thanks for all the good insights. Tomorrow I will finally get to install new wheel cylinders and shoes.

I am using a puller like that pictured by Keiser31. The car is driveable and I did try driving around with the axle nuts loose with no luck. I am hearing lots of wailing on the ears of the puller and nothing about applying heat. I will go at it a little each night while leaving it under tension during the day. This situation affects both rear drums. The good news is that the brakes work fine. I want to rebuild them based on how cruddy the front wheel cylinders looked when I rebuilt the front brakes. Thank you for all the input. I will advise as to the results. My father in law has the mother of all air compressors and a professional grade 1/2 inch impact gun. That combination did not budge the drums.

I do have the axle nut on the end of the axle as a precaution and to help clean up any threads that might get damaged. I have not backed off the shoe adjuster but the drum still turns freely. Once it breaks loose, I will back off the adjuster if the drum hangs up. Since first posting I have been told to heat the drum away from the axle. I have been heating close to the key way.

I have been unable to get the rear drums off of my Chrysler. I am using a 3 legged puller. I have tightened down on the center puller lug with an air impact. I have smacked the end of the lug with a hammer. I have heated the drum around the keyway area cherry red with an acetylene torch. I have left the puller under tension for days. I have used Loctite freeze spray on the end of the keyway. I have used foul language more than once. Suggestions?