Rolf

Hi Bill, yes, there is some kind of solvent product which sort of re-melts the rubber so it will re-form and adhere to the sealing surface, but I can't remember the name of it. If you could find it, you would have to apply it with the Windshield in place, as there is no way to get the rubber and the glass out together intact, unless you are very lucky, look for the product, Eastwood has a lot of stuff like that, and you could probally soak the old rubber liberally, and it would re-seal fine, sorry my memory is so bad, good luck

Hi everybody, my new car is missing the rear view mirror, and a friend says he has one that needs to be resilvered, anyone had this done?? How did it work, and what does it cost? Thanks a lot, Rolf

Hi again Bill, that is an expensive piece of glass in the windshield, so my first recomendation is to take it to a pro in a glass shop, you will see him slice the old rubber with a sharp knife, and release the glass, and not drop it or break it like clumsy amateurs often do, install the new rubber on the glass, then skillfully pull the bottom lip of the rubber on to the lip in the WS opening, with a special string and lots of soapy water, those new rubbers are stiff, and hard to handle. Also you might want to sand and paint the lip first so that you take care of any rust, some do it other ways, but in years in the body business this was always the most common, good luck. Incidentally, since your dash is out, does it need to have the wood graining re-done? It is a #250.00 job for the specialist to do it, and I have just found a fairly close vinyl applique for under $50.00, if I still have the skill to apply it right, color is close but not exact, doubt the expert wood grain guy could do it exact either

Hi Bill, usually when you work on a windshield, you are replacing the rubber because it leaks, and the old glass is OK, or you are putting in a new glass and want to use the old rubber seal, or you want to put in a new glass with a new seal. There are different ways to do each of these, so please be specific, and maybe we can help.

Hi, yes the AR part went right on by me too, I don't know what that means. I guessed '36 and '37, because the designation was just H rather than 86H, 96H, 06H, 16H, 26H, or 56 to 76 H, that is the way they designated the year of the cars, and the same part took on a later prefix, and H was all that designated '36 and '37, used to work with an old Lincoln Mercury Parts man, but he passed on some time ago, so until an expert appears, we are stuck with guessing, I guess, only thing a person could do is put a compression ring in the bore and measure the end gap with a feeler gauge, that would tell if the rings were right for a specific engine, I guess

Hi Steel, I don't have a Lincoln parts book, but 6149S is the Ford number for a steel-section piston ring set. The HS designation I suspect, but do not know for sure, would be a re-ring set for a '36-'37 engine. If I am correct, these rings are used when the bores are in tolerance and a re-bore is not necessary. Maybe someone with a parts book can add to or correct this, good luck

Hi Scott, yes as I remember all postwars had the maroon knobs and plastics, I dis-remember what the Dash was, I think it was a dark woodgrain, and I am struggling with the woodgrain on my '41 Zephyr as we speak, if you come up with any good info sources, let us know, good luck

Hi Sam, there is a pretty nice appearing K Lincoln on the sister website to this one, however it is a '37 and may be a convertible sedan with roll up windows, anyway, take a look, good luck, Rolf <A HREF="http://www.lzoc.org/members'_classifieds.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.lzoc.org/members'_classifieds.htm</A>

Hi Don, '39 coupes are quite valuable because of the popularity of "scrape" the radically customized '39 coupe that has garnered much acclaim, it depends a lot on whether it has a viable engine or not, and how much is missing, I just paid $2850.00 for a rough engineless '41 club coupe with most of the body parts, but had looked at several in not much better shape for quite a bit more, there is not a standard price, but it is your duty to keep it out of the hands of the street-rodders.

Thanks Bill, I recently inquired to color-rite about some '41 colors by e-mail, and was informed that they do not do pre-war colors, but have heard from you and others that they do?? Guess they just don't want any new clients, like Doctors and Dentists. I am hoping to get some explanatory info about methods etc, as I have never attempted this process before, actually I would settle for a good decal if I could find one. Thanks again-

Opening once again the problem of woodgraining on the dash and window reveals on my '41 Zephyr club coupe. Original body color of the car was black, does anyone know what the correct shades of woodgrain paint would be? There seems to be a real vacuum of information on this subject, I wonder if there was ever one of those great informative articles in "The Way of the Zephyr" sometime since 1968? Any information welcomed, thank you

<A HREF="http://www.lzoc.org/members'_classifieds.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.lzoc.org/members'_classifieds.htm</A> <P>Sorry about that Willie, try this one instead

Hi Willie, hate to say that I really don't know for sure about the transmission and shifting arrangements on '36 to '38 Zephyrs, the one that has a crooked floor shift on a side shift type case is the '39, I at the present time know of two, one is available for sure right now, the other is a possible, check it out, and get back to me if you are still in need, good luck, here is the URL, just scroll down, there is a '39 Zephyr transmission for sale<BR>C:\WINDOWS\PROFILES\ROLF\DESKTOP\LZOC ads.url;

Hi again Jack, I thought I remembered a very good article on post-war convrtibles in TWOZ, and it is in the Mar.-Apr. 2000 issue, it doesn't show the views that you need, but is a good article, there is also a shot of an unrestored '42 that might give some help in the Mar-Apr 1999 issue, looks like member Al Mc Wade in Massachusetts has exactly the '48 you are building, complete with pace-car yellow paint, I have a 1941 ad with a artists conception of a top down '41 Conv. with boot in place, but doubt it shows what you need, but if it would help, send me your e-mail to rolf@sasquatch.com and I will shoot it on to you Take care

Hi Jack, seems strange that you can't get the information you need with all of the postwar cars that proliferate on this forum, I am sure any specific question about any aspect of a restoration would get a qualified response, perhaps you should just explain what you need to know. I just looked through all my Lincoln pictures and they are predominately pre-war, but many of the processes are the same. I would encourage you to ask for the info you need.

Hi Jim, was recently searching on the web for some kind of wood grain decal to re-do the dashboard on my '41, and all I came up with is the factory supplied station wagon decals like they used on the old Ford country Squire wagons, and other makes too, I am sure. The problem is they are way too much material, and way too steep in price, will be really interested to see what you come up with, keep in touch, and good luck

Hi Bill, If only wishing would make it so, Dennis Carpenter has the 11A's for sale at $7.50 each, and I have not been able to find a single 16H as of yet, for any price, but thanks again for the interest

Hi, just want to clarify this so that no one is mis-led, the number for a '41 Lincoln parking light lense is 16H13208, the number for a '41 Ford is 11A13208, similar numbers, very different parts. Sad that the Ford's are easily acquired, whereas the Lincoln aren't, just wanted to set it straight-

Thanks Bill, as I understand it you are saying the '41 Ford Park light lense, 11A13208, is listed in your book as correct for '41 Lincoln??? That is great, should be a lot easier to find. Thanks again

Hi Bill, Thanks so much for your interest, I always used to pull a V-12 or a flathead V-8 by attaching a chain to the top back head stud on one side, and the top front stud on the other side, I personally would slide the heads down on the studs to keep from bending the studs or damaging the valves, but I have recently seen one pulled from those same studs with the heads off, Your call. The part numbers in question are for the deck handle, the one I have is supposedly for a 1941 Lincoln Club Coupe is 11A 70 43511 2 the 70 usually refers to the body style, and the usual LZ designation would be 16H rather than 11A, but the 43511 number should be the same Lincoln or Ford. 1941 Ford park light lenses carry the number 11A13208, I would be surprised if there wasn't also a 16H13208 for the '41 Zephyr. Thanks again for checking them Bill, Rolf

Hi Frisk, good luck on entering the Lincoln World, just got a rough '41 myself, so will be travelling down the same road for a while. The bad rust spots to watch on old Lincolns are on the floor board in the drivers compartment, under the doors, and around the edges of the fenders where they bolt to the body and in the corners of the wheel outline, There were few factory options other than overdrive, radio, and heater, the thing to be wary of is the "rebuilt" engine, I have seen many rebuilds that were virtually junk, burned oil and had low oil pressure right from the beginning, check the engine carefully for low oil pressure when warm, blue smoke at idle and on acceleration, some smoke whenever running, and watch for heating problems on long hills, hope this helps, and that the car checks out to your satisfaction, good luck, Rolf

Hi, have recently acquire a very rough '41 Zephyr Club Coupe, and fortunately most of it is there, and I can repair most of the body, rust, etc, but it is missing the skirts, their trim, and locks, and the park light lenses. Reverses in the markets have set me back financially, so I am trying to economise by putting in as much "sweat equity" as I can in this project, so the skirts can be gnarly and dented, the stainless tweaked, and the locks froze up, as long as they are cheap, will even consider broken park lenses, especially if all pieces are there, write me direct at rolf@sasquatch.com Thanks a lot

<A HREF="http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm</A> <P>Hi, try this URL, seems to me they have a whole section on 8 volt and 12volt for starting, and 6 for everything else, also some interesting stuff for your hopped up '40 Ford, hope it helps, good luck

Hi, I am no expert on the postwar models at all, but it seems to me that a '47 and '48 speedometer were identical, and there is a Scott O' Keefe afew posts down who is parting out a '47 sedan, the only difference would be color on the bezel, I would think, good luck, Rolf

Hi, this seems like a good outfit for the color, can't help on the speedo, Rolf<BR> <A HREF="http://www.colorrite.com" TARGET=_blank>www.colorrite.com</A> If that doesn't work, put a - between color and rite.