Rolf

Thanks Bill, we have got that far,it is getting those shafts out that is the problem, looks like they must press on some way, and we are just trying to figure out a way to un-press them, will let you know how it works out.

Hi Everybody, we are getting ready to go to the chrome plater, and I want to get the WS towers done on my '41, and we can't figure out how to take them apart, and re-assemble them, sure hope someone will share their expertise, thanks alot, Rolf

<A HREF="http://www.lzoc.org/members'_classifieds.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.lzoc.org/members'_classifieds.htm</A> <BR>Hi Robert, just wondered if you knew there are several other K's for sale on this site, and you can post pictures there as well, great cars, am reminded of the one in the movie, "Honky Tonk Man" Good Luck

Hi Steve, just doing a little primitive research on the convertible sedan issue, I thought there may have been a '36 or '37 model 740, but I could find no documentation at all, so that leaves just the '38 model 740, and the '39 model 74. I could use a good book on Zephyrs too, there are several good ones about Continentals, but I have not run into one about Zephyrs, let us know what you find out-

That is an excellent place to start, Pete, but what does not compute is having to run the system a gallon low, that is a lot of coolant, and is not explainable with the information we now have, I would watch out for collapsed hoses, regular and heater, and stuck thermostats, but something is still goofy here, be sure to run a compression check when you have the plugs out too, my brain might blow a gasket on this one, be sure and let us know the outcome-

That is really interesting Don, I very vaguely remember a tiny light on the dash of the '46-'48 Lincolns, that indicated it was in OD, so it could be that that 6th terminal was used for that, wish some post-war guy would confirm that though, I am mostly a '41 guy. That relay should work OK on a '41, and the rest of the wiring should all be the same. Would sure be nice to have aprint-out of that schematic, if possible, would eliminate a lot of old-fogey guesswork-

Hi Pete, this is not brain surgery, nothing will blow up or catch fire if you fool around with a fused hot wire a little, the first thing to get working is your push pull overdrive control knob, when it is working right, pushed in will put you in free wheeling, when you let off the gas in gear the car will coast, like you were in neutral, when you pull the knob out, you will have compression, and the car will slow down like a conventional 3 speed transmission. The terminals on your dash mounted relay are usually marked, and as I recall the extra two terminals were for wires that interupted the coil on the distributor when you went into overdrive, the OD loom from Rhode Island, is not very expensive, and probally has the instructions for properly connecting it, there are a variety of ways to wire around the original set up with toggle switches and such, the main thing is to get a 6 volt hot wire to the solenoid, so it will activate the pawl that makes it go into OD when you are in free wheeling, the kickdown and governor are just nice to have, but not absolutely necessary to make the OD function, I used to use LZ Overdrives in hot rod Fords, and had a variety of different wiring schemes to make them do what I wanted them too, but a hot wire to the solenoid is the key. Check out that stock loom, probally your best bet, good luck

Hey Pete, I hope you know that the '41 Ford frontend, although similar, is quite different than the Lincoln, and if you have the Ford parts somehow interchanged, you will probally have severe problems, sorry I can't help you more

That is a strange one, barring a broken spring or a severe impact from underneath, I can think of no reason for these parts to be in conflict, I think what I would do is to take the car to a frontend place that does big trucks, they often straighten damaged parts, and know how to do it right, they may have access to new links for your stabilizer too, good luck

Hi Bill, don't know this to be gospel, but the logical reason for the shim may well be as follows. the only adjustment on a LZ to move the steering wheel fore or aft, for tall or short drivers, is in the slotted holes where the steering box bolts to the frame, if this adjustment were made for a tall or short driver, the shim may have been used to take up the resulting slack between the mount and the dash, that not compensated for, could bend the dash, or cause movement in the top of the column, or the mounting bolts would not line up on the dash, makes some sense to me anyway

Hi Craig, I have talked to one of the regular LZOC vendors about skirt locks, and he apparently reproduces them, his e-mail is awhelihan@aol.com, he quoted me $40.00 each for them. Skirt and runningboard stainless is tough to find, but a good stainless steel fabricator can bend you up some very acceptable substitutes, especially if you have the opposite sides, or some bent up originals, also stainless is one of the most repairable of metals, in capable hands, the bezel and lense I can't help with, good luck

Think that is entirely possible, but don't think it came that way, I think the mechanical and hydraulic brake drums were interchangeable, and someone just switched them way back, when they were easily available, possibly for no more of a reason than to use later wheels and tires, just a guess, but everything I have seen says the bolt patterns switched with the hydraulic brakes, always interesting with the twists and turns though, thanks for the input, Tammy's dad's car does seem to be overwhelmingly '39 though.

HI Nez, not really my field of expertize, but Bill Uhouse did come up with some kind of magic potion that is aupposed to do this job, couldn't get the posts to go back far enough, but I know he did address the question, good luck,

You are more than welcome, Tammy, having had a lot of help from my boys on a Lincoln Zephyr project, I really appreciate what you are doing, good luck, and bet wishes,

Hi Bill, and don't forget the smaller type hubcaps for the 5.5" wheel bolt pattern for the hydraulic brakes that were introduced that year, grille and trim were different than the '38 also, so it is without doubt a '39, good call Bill-

Good to hear from you Bill, was hoping you would get into this, there are some variables here that in real life are very confusing. Ford used two sending units for the factory equipped dash oil pressure guages, one for the 50 lb gauges, 48-9278, and another for the 80 lb dash gauges, 41A-9278, my research indicates that all the oil pumps, including the Lincoln, were all the same, 59A-6600, fits everything, Ford Mercury and Lincoln, '32-'48. The Ford gauge had a 6 volt hot lead on the proper side of the gauge that comes on with the ignition, all pretty straight-forward, but the problem that has arisen recently is that after plumbing in a mechanical, non electrical, gauge, on the same engine at the same time, there is a vast difference in the readings, and because it is so critical in the V-12 as a guide to engine condition, I thought it worthwhile to persue this and see if some conclusions can be reached, by actual experience, rather than obtuse theory. On the test engine I am using, there was no marking on the electrical sending unit, indicating it was probally the original 50 lb unit to go with the 50 lb instrument in the '39 dash, yet the reading is almost doubled on the newly installed mechanical gauge??? A long-winded way to ask the question for sure, but it is curious, we are now attempting to get a known good 50 lb sending unit to replace the original, and see if that effects a change, beyond that, I am stumped, help

There have been a flurry of oil pressure questions arising recently, both on this forum and off line, and I am a little snowed, it has been my experience that if you are running a 50 or 80 lb dash gage, and the appropriate sending unit, it will read reasonably close to a mechanical oil gage used as a check and control, however it now appears that there is more to this story that I am not aware of, due to the sudden appearance of almost double the oil pressure in a friends Zephyr when he attached a mechanical gage, anyone encountered this before?? It would really be good to know, thanks in advance for guidance-

Sorry Willie, shouldn't do part numbers so early in the morning, the number for an 80 lb sending unit is 41A-9278, a little senior dyslexia there I fear, onward-

Hi Willie, my Ford catalog lists 2 numbers for that item, one the 48-9278 is for 50 lb gauges, the correct one for your 1948 car is the 80 lb unit, 41A-9280, this is the same as Ford and Mercury, and may well be available at the Ford Obsolete parts vendors, like Bob Drake and Dennis Carpenter, the intrigueing question is why you need the sending unit??? Nothing hardly ever goes wrong with them, but if you are getting a low oil pressure reading, that is an "oh-oh" and check the unit to make sure you don't have a 50 lb sender and a 80 lb gauge, I believe this will give a low reading, which nobody wants to see on a V-12, hope that helps-

Hi Tom, have been puzzled as to what is happening with your air cleaner, it is obviously not working correctly, and as this is very low-tech type stuff, the problems must stem from the modifications that were made. I don't think it is desirable to have that dirty oil sucked into your nice new engine, I remember cleaning out those oil baths in the old days, and that oil was always gritty and contaminated, yukko. I believe I would try to adapt a modern dry air filter to your original cleaner, it would look right, and would probally work a lot better than if the original oil bath were restored, I would leave the PCV valve for now, as they carry away a lot of blowby and bad smells, good luck,

Hi Chris, Sorry you lost your dad, but he certainly left you an interesting and valuable car. There was a Vic Piano on this forum some time ago who had recently acquired a car like yours, look in the older posts, and get his address. The other problems sound like basic tune up stuff, a sooty condition on the plugs is usually a rich mixture, but can also be weak spark, or an out of synch distributor, see Jake Fleming for a rebuilt coil, and Bill Uhouse for setting the distributor and sparkplug wires, I would stick with Champion H10 plugs, they are still available from tractor houses and the Ford Obsolete houses, lots of places on the net to go through the carburetor, check the compression on all 12 cyklinders, and it should purr like the proverbial kitten, Good Luck

Hi, just recently went through this process on my '41, here in California we call it the VIN #, or Vehicle Identification Number, and it should be stamped on the front and rear of the frame, we were only able to find the one stamped on the rear of the frame, but it was enough for a Police officer to verify it clearing the way to get the car registered, get a good wire brush, and sharpen your eyeballs, it is probally there, and hopefully will be the one you want, the body number is not relevant, good luck-

Hi, I have had good luck with rubbing a light coat of wheel bearing grease on the inside of the mating parts of the hoses. This seems to soften the rubber a tad, and make it more amenable to sealing, twist the hose on the metal a little bit before tightening the clamps, always worked for me, good luck

Here is the link to that other site, good luck- <BR> <A HREF="http://www.lzoc.org/members'_classifieds.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.lzoc.org/members'_classifieds.htm</A>

Hi Bob, didn't know your grandad, but he had good taste in cars. What variety of Zephyr would you like?? There are several available on the sister website to this one for the LZOC, and I know of a rather rough but basically complete '37 Fordor for sale in my area here in Central California, for about $2500.00, needs everything, floorboards, froze engine, rust, etc etc, if you are interested, I could run by and take some pictures with my new digital camera, let me know-