Jump to content

Rolf

Members
  • Content Count

    1,101
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by Rolf

  1. When I recently was trying to get a '41 hood cable working free, I had some success by pouring Kroil down the tube until it over flowed, then blowing it down by the good old mouth, refilling it, and repeating the process, got a little movement, and by pulling the knob, and the other end of the wire with a pair of pliers, in a short time it came loose, the EPA came to the door, and tried to arrest me, but I washed my mouth out thoroughly, and did not drink any of the Kroil, and I am alive and well, with no new sympthoms, the wire eventually separated and pulled out of the housing, I greased it
  2. Bill, you have no idea of the adventures I have had since you got me started on hubcaps a few years ago, I got this welded one in a load of assorted caps, and have promised a friend I would try to save it for him, I found a welder who had welded thin stainless for 20 years as a job, and he did a fantastic job, no warps and perfect blends, so now with your help, I can get the 3 script holes drilled in the right places, and be off to whatever comes next, thank you so much, I have some strange postwar stuff around here, a windshield washer jar metal frame, and a bunch of strange related buttons a
  3. Glenn, if Pauls solution is indeed one that will work within the housing, I can't envision how it could, I have a maroon hood knob with about 6" of the wire on it, I don't think the knob easily comes off does it guys?? Welded and ground down, to a replacement wire?? Unlikely, but there may be a solution somewhere within this great collective intelligence, we await that solution with baited breath-
  4. Well thank you, the problem is that there is a script in fairly small letters saying "LINCOLN CONTINENTAL" across the upper part of the hubcap that goes on the spare tire of a Connie. It is held on with 3 little tabs cast in to the script and held on with speed nuts, that are some times hard to get off without breaking the tabs or more accurately studs. My problem is to get the correct position of those 3 holes on the cap I have prepared, The front caps have a larger "LINCOLN" script held on with 6 studs, and it is gold in color, I am always in the market for '36-'48 hubcaps, so if you woul
  5. Hi everyone, I am trying to find the script holes on a welded up 1948 Continental spare tire hubcap. I was hoping one of you Connie guys might have one around with the script off, so a paper template could be made over the whole 9" center section with the 3 holes for the script punched in the paper so I could apply it and drill the holes in to the welded up cap, any help greatly appreciated, rolf@got.net I could guess, that is what the guy before me did, but welding up those holes takes some expertise and cash, I am doing my best to get it right-
  6. You were lucky Dave, KenCT has a less than stellar reputation, nuff said
  7. Mike, we have my son's '41 Z Club Coupe resto-rod insured at State Farm for $40K, mostly in case it gets ripped off as often happens in the Los Angeles area, that is basically the amount he has spent on it, his labor for the last 6 years isn't even considered-
  8. Rolf

    Pet Peeves

    '41's with pushbuttons had kickers, pull out handles did not, so it would appear they were an extra, as the kickers were a big deal to retrofit, and were probally not done at the dealers- Dave you are probally right, your smaller pic came right up-
  9. Hey, before you jump willy-nilly in to "improving" your great car, get a build sheet from Dearborn, this will tell you exactly how your car was delivered to the dealer, and perhaps the first owner. CA has the "year of Manufacture" option at the DMV, you are supposed to run those hoky tags like are on my sons car, but you can remove them for car shows etc, Le Baron Bonney is a well known upholstery and other items provider for collector cars, and are easy to google, sorry I don't have their address handy, Skips e-mail is "fordsrus,com" I think, otherwise he has a site called Skip's water pumps
  10. Jeff, I know you take issue with some of the LZOC items, 1e: Dave Cole, west coast cars, customisers etc, but I have one about the slow loading times on pictures on this forum, surely there is enough technology today to require less than the time it now takes, we could practically go to OK to see Dave's beautiful car faster than the pic comes up!! But it is OK, just the ability to have the pics, no matter how slow is great-
  11. Do you have the other '41 license plate like the one on the front bumper?? If so, you can run that, with the appropriate DMV approval, like my son does on his '41 resto-rod, great looking sedan, don't recall ever seeing that color before, but the car is amazingly well preserved for sure, congratulations, you can get frames for the odd size plates from Le Baron Bonney-
  12. Ok Mike, thank you, I think the mystery is solved, the wiper arm on the side where it has the special nut, by your tape is 7 1/2" long, this corresponds to the ones I have, so they are probally correct for at least '36, but maybe up to '39, we know '40's are 9 1'2" and bolt on, '41's and up are 9 1'2" and push on, so the push on arm you have is probally wrong, but how is the nub where that arm attaches fastened to your tower?? If it is a after-market piece that screws on to the threaded stud, you could remove it, and put an original 7 1/2" arm and nut on it, and be just like the other side, a
  13. I already did Jeff, I also drove a whole bunch of V-12 cars around Los Angeles in those days that in no way were candidates for TLC or serious consideration by any real car buff, and soon became Zephyr gears and brakes, the only things of value then. I remember in an attempt to get some oil pressure in the sickest, leakiest, clatteriest 12 any one has ever saw, I changed the oil to 90 wt rear end oil, still clattery lifters, and 0 oil pressure, needless to say that particular V-12 is not being found in someones garage or barn these days, but it ran, not well for sure, but that kind of memory
  14. Speaking of Stovebolt powered Ford's Phil, check this one out, this is for all those that say every custom attempt with Zephyrs has already been done, think it will go in the museum of art like the '41 Connie did??
  15. I went through this with Dave Hitchinson a while back, he is really in the know, and it was pointed out they are very different animals, rims and lenses, reflectors, everything, so don't buy '39's for your '38-
  16. How about a 9 1/2" arm, and a 9" blade like the parts catalog says, that is the best I can do for you Jeff
  17. The other is getting too long, all this talk about them prompted me to pull my raggedy tag box of ws stuff out, and really take a look at it. It looks as if Bill is right again, what a fantastic wealth of information and knowledge this man provides us, we are fortunate indeed. Almost all of the parts I have left are the type with the threaded post, requiring a special nut to secure it, and sure enugh, all of those towers, Z and C, are marked '40. I was surprised that the '40 Connie towers have provision for WS washers, I had thought just the postwar Connies had that. What I came up with w
  18. Thanks Bill, that would explain the different part number for the '40, but they have sure got switched around a lot over the years
  19. Phil did not mention it, but the blades appear to be 9" as they are supposed to be, and notice the taller towers on the Connie, the Z's had short guys like the '39, the screw on push on arm controversy has raged for years, leading me to suspect that they came both ways with different suppliers
  20. Ok Jeff, it is early morning and my eyes are a little fresher, on page 286 of the '36-'48 Chassis part catalog, there is a listing for a 99A17528, that is a 1939 Mercury number, it is a wiper blade 9" long that is correct for '36-'42, there are different arms for both '40's and Connies, but no other length blade listed, the '46-'48 blades have a different number, but are still 9" long, difference is probally how they attach to the arms, to answer your next question, no it does not say how the 1940 arms,06H17529, differ from the others, or their length, a guess is the attachment to the tower sh
  21. Hey Jeff, unless your '40 Z is vastly different than a '41, it will have a short underdash arm off the motor that is 8 1/4" on the drivers side, and 20 1/2" on the passenger side, all the blades are the same on C's and Z's, 9", same as some '41-'48 Fords, and available at the various Obsolete Ford venues, and the arm off the outside of the tower is 10" long, with my poor eyes, I did not check the chassis parts book as I should have, but that is what the parts I have here measure out too, incidentally, I just got a new Narragansett catalog, has a lot of good stuff for us, and a lot of stuff for
  22. Post WW2 Wes, '46-'48, sometimes including '42's as they are so close in styling, just a handy term to separate the differences, the '36-'41's are "early" Z's and Connies-
  23. From what I could see, it didn't show much of the Connie, but I always heard it was a PW like Wes's, I am not much in to movies like that myself
  24. Almost as surprising and absurd as trying to make a 71 year old car brand new again, right?? Yet people strive on, and hope no one drops a bomb on their efforts, I am so profound tonight, sickening ain't it-
  25. I have sent all the promised "first-look" 's out I think, so you good folks on this forum get the next chance at these very nice 1941 Z and C items, the sales proceeds will go toward paying off a very nagging Visa card that ran amok, then later in the week, I will put the list on the LZOC parts for sale site. Write me at rolf@got.net and I will send the list to you, Thank you
×
×
  • Create New...