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Rolf

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Everything posted by Rolf

  1. Yeah DD, the reasonable price is the problem, most Z owners balk at anything over 25 cents per item, and the repro lenses I have arranged for to be made in Germany, and are of fantastic quality are lanquishing on a shelf and getting very dusty, so I doubt they will be around much longer either, but a hefty order and a good sample would get those '41 wiper knobs etc going strong. We will soon have plastic '38-'39 Taillight lenses and bezels, plastic '41 park light covers and headlight rims with chrome plated plastic, and '41 and Continental stop light lenses, not cheap and who cares anyway?? Sorry, a little sour grapes I guess-
  2. No comment Phil, that is a strange new world on that crazy site, the fair price for an untested coil is $50, and that is what my price will remain as long as I have them, if someone wants to buy mine and make their fortune, fine with me, my conscience is clear, and I don't enjoy having people over-pay, pretty wordy "no comment" eh??
  3. Ole walmart Rolf to the rescue, maybe Jeff, I have one good right hand, and a broken left hand with all the pieces, that could be glued together, and serve until a good one is found, $35 for both, let me know rolf@got.net
  4. Yes Bill, one rebuilt spare is all any reasonable person would ever need, and they are such pretty things all shined up, they make great "Wall-Art" even if they are like "Wall Mart
  5. And I have several NOT on EPay and proud of it, $50 each, intact but condition unknown
  6. No bother at all Moody, I checked with some people in the know, 'cause I sure am not, and they say all tee window cylinders are the same, but the old originals are fraught with problems, so it is a trip to the casino, I am also told that brand new ones are available for $135, so you don't have to scrap the car, or tape the window shut, and here these things are only 60 years old, and already troublesome, imagine!!
  7. Got a loose dash panel, but need a glove box door before I commence to begin to start trying to learn how to do some wood-grain painting, anyone got one they would part with? Thanks, Rolf rolf@got.net
  8. I trust you have your battery cables off the battery, a short on the ammeter can cause a fire, that heavy wire that runs through the loops is read by the ammeter right through the insulation, if the insulation is gone, it will short out, very dangerous!! An effective repair would be to splice in the bad section of wire with those plastic connectors, putting a new short piece of wire through the ammeter loop, making sure it runs the same way through the loop, that should make it good for another 58 years, good luck, Rolf
  9. For what it is worth Glenn, I have a box full of used original window lift cylinders, condition unknown, $10 each, if the one I send you is no good, send it back, and I will shoot you another one, wish I could test them for you, but I have no facility's, rolf@got.net
  10. Hi Dave, barring a rim trade with Phil, or some brand new rims from Bill, I would first try putting that incorrect lug wrench under the spare, the tire is slightly elevated by the width of the wrench, and is probally creating a bind that is the problem with the wooden flap not working right, just a guess, but I know they are a press fit down there. Very nice array of tools and equipment in that tiny sedan trunk, good job, Rolf
  11. Well Bill, I know you want everything just so, but the 4" rim would probally fit better in the trunk, and is the correct 06H-1015 for your '40, the book says they were used from '38-'40, and of course are 16" in diameter, the '41s are listed separately and are also 16", either 4'5 or 5" wide, and are a 16H-1015, good luck, Rolf
  12. Ok Phi, that pretty well covers the 15", lots of options there, but what about 16"?? Also I think you got those spring clips off of some other wheels than '39 or '40 Fords, they used push in caps, there I go picking nits again, sorry
  13. Just looked int '32-'48 Ford "green-bible", and it only shows 3 16" wheels, 68-1015, '36-'39, 11A-1015, '40'48, 4" wide, and a 8C-1015 at 4.5" width Some '48 and up pickups were sold with 16" rims, as I recall, but they took the Ford "push-in caps, Mercurys are not shown in this book, but I think they went to 15" in '42, like our L's, but took the push in caps
  14. Bill, the book shows a whole different wheel in '41, but does not say what was different, I know that when a 7:00 X 16" tire is mounted on a narrow wheel, especially 6 ply tires, they sure do not look right, I have had several people asking about 16" wheels lately, and they seem to be very hard to find, if someone has some extras, let me know, Rolf
  15. Thanks Phil and Bill, that is the concensus, dumb me, I had only '41 Connie cabriolets in my days, and never dreamed the coupes would be different, live and learn
  16. Time for a new post around here for sure, a fellow just asked me if there is a stainless or chrome trim strip around the A fellow just asked me if there is a trim strip around the WS of a Continental like a Zephyr, I had several picture that show they don't seem too, he seems to recall seeing some of said trim on Connies, any one able to clarify this for us?? Thanks a lot WS on a Continental
  17. Well at least yours has one of your beloved 06H73's in it, no one can fault you on that-
  18. Must be the apostrophe, trying again, I love the pic-
  19. I have very poor luck with pics on this site too, but here is one of my faves from the '30's, if it will appear-
  20. I have heard most '42 grille parts were stainless steel, if this picture will display, and it is a '42 grille part, maybe it will narrow it down for you-
  21. That is probally a "Lincoln Custom", unique body somewhat longer than a Zephyr, same running gear with a longer driveshaft, interesting cars, but not to aesthetic, to my taste anyway
  22. y guess is that is was a way to keep the cars in order coming down the assembly line, a quick glance at the bell housing would confirm that the correct parts were going on the appropriate car, just a guess, I don't know for sure, one major problem with using the body # for registration is that the body tag is just screwed on to the firewall, is easily removed, and does not appear anywhere else on the car that I know of, so a knowlageable car thief could easily switch body plates, and your car would suddenly be his, guess it would never happen, but it could
  23. But the body # is not the VIN Phil, it really should be registered with the VIN, although my last '41 was registered with the body #, because it was so easy to see there on the firewall, go figure-
  24. Rolf

    37 Zephyr

    Sorry to hear that Peter, especially when everything else seems to be working so well, very disappointing, the main cause of oil leaks from the rear main I have found is excess clearance on the thrust, causing end play, when that tolerance is within limits, main leaks are usually non existent or minimal, the best of luck, hope it turns out to be an inconsequential problem, Rolf
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