mastertech

thank you. I drive this everyday,but take the wheels off for winter. being that I work in a Chrysler dealership every saterday I pull the car in put it up on the lift spray a good cleaner on the underneath and hose all the crud and salt out let it dry . been doing this for five years now and no rust.

I bought these whees at a yard sale,the seller told me that they came off a 1968 Camaro he once owned from new, removed the fron the car when he wrecked it in 78 put them in the garage till I bought them. I cleaned them up put them on my 300. Have been told by some older people that these are vintage wheels. I my self do not remember ever seeing any, outter rim is chrome center spokes are gold . I have contacted cragar but had to sent them a picture of the wheel. thru email. if anyone knows of these or have ever seen these I would like to know if they are period correct or. either way I thing they look on my 300.

forgot also replace the pcm and checked the wiring to each of the coils both when the engine cold and hot both side to compare and both had same resistance and voltage

Have this car comming into the shop in a few days that has a problem that seems that no one can put a finger on. Its a 2002 dodge intrepid with a 2.7 engine, when you first start car will run fine after appx 30-40 sec it will missfire for appx 2 min the go away. checked it on scan tool i have miss fires on cylinders 1 3 and 5. Now if you drive it is fine, untill you shut off for 20-30 min the starts all over. It will turn on the check engine light. So far the plugs have been changed, compression checked (within specs), coils been swaped to other side of engine (miss fire stayed on 1 3 5 ) Fule ingectors cleaned and tested, have replaced the upper intake gaskets/seals( they are rubber d rings) Have also replaced the lower intake manifold, it is plastic with rubber seals . I also believe that somewhere along the line someone replaced the o2 sensors. They have also replaced the cam sensor. This is A overhead cam engine with chains driving the cams. Because the engine runs so good i done believe the chains have jumped, if it did this is a bend the valve engine, but i havent put that out yet. I havent work on this yet just kinda help out the guy in shop but when anything comes back for the 4th time i end up with it(crap floats down hill). I dont think that there is any coolant loss, and the owner hasent complained of any oil useage either. Just trying to get ideas I have talked to the guys at chrysler tech they have no idea what to look for. Any idea would be great no matter how off the wall it is I'll try anything at this point. Oh yeah i believe it has appx 100k on it it is well manitaned we have serviced this car since new. If we get this one fixed have a 2010 advenger that wont turn over when the temp gets below 40. been dealing with that one since new, but that one is for later.

Here is my 65 chrysler 300

We had one in my home town a few years back, had a tech on duty to give a hand if needed. He did good for about a year then got shut down for doing faulty state inspections, seens he wasent doing the inspections letting the customers do there own checks ansd was handing out state inspection stickers like candy. After a few bad accidents the state police shut him down. I had thought about opening one up here about a year ago, could work at my job during the day and then opening up after work in the evenings, but my wife got sick and have to take care of her now so i put it on the back burner for awhile.

oh yeah the dodge truck will also burn off the dpf on the fly or i can do it manually but manuall usually takes about 1hr and 1/2 to 3/4 tank of fuel!!!!!!!

I usually do 2 trucks a week egr clean which is remove the egr cooler throttle body egr valve replace the breather filter change the oil and filter and fuel filter, cost is somewhere around 500.00. now if it has less the 100k it is warrenty so the customer is only responcable for the oil and filter and fuel filter, not sure what we charge for the oil and filter but the fuel filter is about 45-50 dollars installed. now if i do a fuel syaten clean customer pays for drop tank clean it out and cleaning and testing of injectors, if any are bad chrysler will usually pay for any injectors that need replaced as long as the engine has been serviced reg. now when i do an oil change (i do this on cars also) i change oil and filter check all fluids grease any fittings check tire pressure including spare. lube all door hinges, I also do a quick walk under checking tie rod ends tire condition exhaust system and if i can see them quick of brake pads and wiper blades.( No i dont get paid flat rate and no i get no commision on any part that gets sold ) I then write on the work order any thing that may need looked at and recommend any service that may need done. On a car sevice (oil change) our cost to the customer is 24.99. My self and one other tech in the shop do this, both of us have been doing this for over 30 years each it is just some thing that the older mechanics taught us a long time ago, the younger 2 techs all they do is chang oil they dont want to take the extra 2 mins to check these thing, they say if not on work order not going to do it.

the injectors are computer controled called pilot injectors, they fire twice on compression once before top of stroke and once at tdc thats why the 6.7 engine is a lot quiter now. that price is from cummings can get after market a lot cheaper, but because of the warrenty left on truck we can only install ome injectors.

Lets see it all started last friday a guy brings in his 09 dodge 2500 deisel truck check engine lamp on just wanted the code erased cause the place where he took said it wouldnt goaway. The code was for deisel particlate filter full. Well unless the exhaust is blowing black smoke the filter is not full, necessary to get get some info from the customer. Have to do this as the engine has a 100k warrenty and i have to call our area tech advisor to comtinue and what to do for warrent coverage. First question was when was the last fuel filter change responce Never had any service mantiance fo any kind done! Ok I need to take a fuel sample now this part is not under any warrenty this is all customer pay Fuel sample out of clean side was very bad, customer states uses fuel out of the tank in the bed of his truck. to make a long story short this truck has 93k on it it should have had at lease 8 fuel services and at least 2 egr system cleans. so now the engine is in derate needs injectors puled out and checked and cleaned , a total custoner pay of $1,200. Injectors come back fron the injector shop all 6 are junk 1,678 a piece. well he oked the fuel system clean (drop tank clean out clean lines) and clean the erg system , but doeent want injectors done said it was unessary work . well back together dosent run right because injectos bad and dosent want to pay for any work. by now his remaining warrenty has be restricted . pictures show the fuel that he uses, the filter that has been breached anf the fuel out of the lines. today truck cone in for transfer case leak and no noise said the customer yeah right , No oil in the case what so ever. It just seen that people no longet take care of there cars and expect them to be fix under warrenty evern tho manitance work has been done. And that the garage is the bad guy when we tell then that its not covered. This has just been two cases in the last few weeks that i have encountered

This is a scam!!!! I know because it happened to my daughter, she was selling some items on some online web site and the person on the other end said the same thing that she was an oceangrapher she lived in tulsa and was getting ready to ot the ocean for research, within a few days. My daughter was to send her the items to her son for inspection and she would the send payment if all was ok. I cant remenber what her sons name was but it was spelled wrong in everone of the e mails tha she got from this person. After my daughter questioned her on a few other items the person all of a sudden dissapered even thou she wanteed these items in the worst way. SCAM SCAM!

I picked these up at a yard sale this summer for $50. with tires , the only reason i did was because the original wheel are bent bad, and havent been, able to locate any good ones. I am keeping the original ones with the tires to use for this winter(yes i drive this car every day unless is really bad out) and to go to certian shows. The original wheels are 14" the cragers are 15". was told that these are old wheels the came off of a 68 camaro. the tires are shot dry rotted weather checked I did use them this summer around town. I want to buy new tires but dont know if i should go with white walls or white letters. the car is stock other than the wheels. just lookin for some input as to which way to go. I know i havent been on here much lately but my wife has a serious illness, she is on a transplant list for a liver, so have been traveling back and forth from dubois to cleveland about onec a month for treatment right now she is stable but that could change at any time. She is about the middle of the scale for a transplant and we are trying to keep it there.

I remember the instructors showing us this at chrysler training for the "new" transmission that was comming out

looking for window regulators for the left and right rear non power for a 1965 chrysler 300 4door hardtop along with rear lower quarter moldings for the same, and a radio. Also anything else that i dont need that catches my eye!

Note: The following is a June-July, December 1999 and September 2004 of email messages on the IML on electroluminescent dash lighting problems and repairs: Anyone know who replaces the luminescent coating on the instruments? What shop rebuilds them? If you mean the coating on the once-red pointers, that can be done by the DIY'er. The tricky part is getting the gauges out of the dash (which you have to do to send them off to be rebuilt anyway....) All you need is a can of electroluminescent spray paint (also called "safety paint"), available at most home-improvement, hardware or hobby shops. Use the red (or "red-orange" as some are labeled) for Imperials. Be sure to shake the can up REALLY well before spraying. Slip a small piece of newspaper, doubled over, under the needle, and shoot it with a few, quick shots. DON'T spray too much on all at once! Just a quick whisk every ten minutes or so, slowly building up the paint layer until the needle is back to it's former, glorious red color. I did this to a '63 Crown that I sold just this past summer, and after 13-years in the harsh Colorado sun (car was never garaged or covered), those needles still looked as good as new. Actually, I've used this same paint to restore faded needles on many late-50s to early-70s dashes, E/L and non-E/L, though the orange (or orange-yellow) shade is more correct. Mark '52 Chrysler Imperial 2-door hardtop How can I fix my Imperial's electroluminescent lighting power supply? Subject: IML: Blew out my '63's dash. DUH! Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 11:25:03 -0600 From: Mark Brauer, mark.brauer@lmco.com Well, folks, it wasn't easy, but I managed to smoke my '63's E/L system. Stupid, STOOPID! But we shall not dwell on the past.... At present, what I have is a power pack with a blown 2 ohm, 5- or 10-watt resistor, and a 3-way wire that used to be a transistor. The resistor's no problem, they're easy to find, and if I pay a dollar for it I've paid too much. But that transistor - does anyone know what to replace it with now? It's a Bendix number PS 26, and it's not in any of the semiconductor manuals I have (I'm sure it's germanium), so I don't know what the specifications for this little baby are. I don't even know if it's PNP or NPN! Perhaps if someone out there knows the operating parameters in a properly working system I can see if I can come up with a silicon replacement. After all, it seems to be a simple switching circuit. How about the power packs used in the '66-'67 Dodge Chargers? I've heard of people using these in '60 - '63 Chryslers and Imperials. (Heard it makes 'em brighter...!) I would think they'd have a silicon transistor by then, but maybe not.... I've read through the Tips and Resources page on this subject, and while it mentions replacing the capacitor (always a good idea to replace those waxy capacitors, where ever they're found....), it doesn't get into the real nuts 'n bolts 'n transistors 'n such. Any help would be greatly appreciated. (Brain's thinkin' - "Maybe I could get a vibrator from an old car radio to work for this....") Mark '52 Chrysler Imperial 2-door hardtop '63 Imperial Crown 4-door hardtop Subject: Re: Transistor substitution for a '63's dash. Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 10:20:00 -0700 From: Dick Benjamin, bondotmec@ez2.net Hi Mark; It looks to me that the best choice for a transistor would be an MJ2955, available at Radio Shack as their number 276-2043, $1.99 (!) You'll have to change the bias resistor to 120 ohms (your "R2") in the circuit diagram, this should make it hammer pretty hard. I'd just fire it up and let it run for a few hours to make sure it is not dissipating too much heat, but it should be fine. If you think it is running a little hot, you could try reducing the forward bias resistor, maybe to 100 ohms or so, but if you go much lower, the chopper will have trouble starting in cold weather. Dick Benjamin bondotmec@dte.net Subject: Re: [iML: Blew out my 63s dash. DUH!] Date: 18 Jun 99 23:09:35 EDT From: IMPERIAL1USA@netscape.net To Mark Brauer, I am an experienced electronics technician of 9 years. I have played with these power supplies for Chrysler dashboard lighting for over 7 years now. It started off MANY years ago with a friend who has a few 300 Letter cars (59, 50, 61) and the dashboard lights would fade to nothing after about 10 to 20 minutes. With help from co-workers we learned how to correctly repair these devices. A paper capacitor MUST be used, not an electrolytic type. As far as we know, paper caps. are no longer made in this country. Must be imported, and are hard to find. The transistors are available, as well as most of the original electronic components from electronic component catalogs and manufacturing companies. I no longer work directly in bench repair, I work in RF engineering; BUT we have successfully restored about a dozen of these units for $35.00 a piece. Have been put into Coronets, Imperials, Chargers, and 300's. Some repairs only lasted a few weeks and had to be repaired again at no additional cost. Eventually everyone's dash lights worked again and all were satisfied customers. The device is a basic power inverter - converts 12VDC into 225-270 VAC with very low current. We never had one blow up or short out after being repaired OR do any damage to anyone's electrical system...Hope this helps Dave Brown (TWO 66 LeBarons) Subject: Re: [Re: IML: RE: Blew out my 63s dash. DUH!] Date: 20 Jun 99 22:28:15 EDT From: IMPERIAL1USA@netscape.net The capacitor is usually the culprit in these power supplies for dash lighting...it does break down and wear out with age...the analogy I use is...How many 1960 to 1963 TV sets do you still see in use in peoples homes today? Hopefully none.... Moisture problems that were mentioned are definitely not a good thing for ANY electronics and the parts will change their tolerances with age and heat conditions. It has been my experience with the 12 units I have helped in repairing that all parts in it are obtainable NEW today... As far as taking a power unit from a modern car...the voltage and current rating would have to be known and the connector would have to mate up OR it would have to be hard wired. One final note from my experience...ALL (and I do mean ALL) Chrysler cars that used electroluminescent dash lighting used the same interchangeable power supply (including Chargers, Coronets, Imperials, 300's and I have not seen them but heard some Chryslers did too). At Carlisle and Hershey NOS units are being sold for $100 to $200!!! Restoration shops in Hemmings will charge from $50.00 & up to rebuild these things...all parts inside total less than $20.00 to $25.00...and all parts would never need to be changed...the most frequent problem I have encountered is that dash lights work and then fade away after a very short time of being turned on, due to failure of parts in power supply... Good Luck to all from imperial1usa@netscape.net Subject: IML: E/L Power Pack EPILOGUE Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 13:05:26 -0600 From: Mark Brauer, mark.brauer@lmco.com I know you've all been holding your collective breaths, waiting for the exciting conclusion to the tale of woe I begat when I blew out my '63 Imperial's electroluminescent lighting. If you'll recall from our last episode, Dick Benjamin had just suggested to me a modern replacement for the germanium transistor I had popped. He had also provided me with secret instructions on re-biasing the circuit to accommodate the new, silicon wonder. Now, start breathin' again 'cause here are the results: Works good. Derned good. In fact, that dash never looked so good, at least not as long as I've owned that car, which was just over 11 years. Output was 190 volts A.C. And the transistor and assembly stayed cool, baby, cool.... I went ahead and took some voltage measurements around the transistor while it was operating in the car, and have included them with the JPEG schematic I drew up, along with the new transistor's part number and re-biasing instructions. I'm going to send it along: And on behalf of everyone who has or ever will have one of these beasts with E/L dash problems, and finds their solution at the IML website, I want to thank you, Dick Benjamin, for all your help in solving yet another MoPar restoration/repair mystery. Mark '52 Chrysler Imperial 2-door hardtop Subject: IML: Re: '63 E/L dash capacitors - value, pls Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:38:38 -0700 From: Dick Benjamin, bondotmec@ez2.net It appears from a schematic I received from Mark Brauer that the original capacitor was a .068 mfd rated at 330 VAC. I would suggest a replacement be the same value (sets the frequency of oscillation) but of mylar or polystyrene construction, and rated at least 600V. The original transistor was a germanium PNP in a TO-3 case, which will be a bear to find. I have suggested to Mark that he try a MJ2955 as a replacement (Radio Shack part number 276-2043 at $1.99), but it will be necessary to adjust the bias resistor from 50 ohms to 120 ohms to accommodate the Silicon replacement. I think it would be wise to let Mark try this substitution first, and let him see if everything still works properly with it before others flock to a less than optimum "repair". Mark's schematic is reproduced above. Dick Benjamin try this might be some info in it for you

check out htpp://teamchicago.com/Imperial/imperial.htm i see they list the part numbers for the parts there is a ling on the page to the gauge section

its called eletroluminescent lighting they still use it today. I did see someone the computer that did repair these clusters, but for the life of me i cant find it. we usually send them out to get repaired due to the complex nature of the system. My understanding is it works somewhat like a fluorescent lamp. The new ones today use pulse width modulation output to light them using computers. I will try to see if i can find any info for you.

I owned a 1964 440h and it was the emergency brake lamp it should flash on and off . not sure what makes it flash but it does very bright!!!!!

Lets see , 64 rambler american 440 2dr hardtop 65 mustang 70 maverick 70 ford f100 71 ford f100 69 fairlane gt 73 dodge challenger 78 amx 73 pinto wagon 69 4dr thunderbird 66 chevy belaire 75 thunderbird 81 ford granda 85 ltd 89 ply acclaim 83 dodge d100 93 plymouth voyager 91 dodge d100 2002 dodge caravan 51 desoto s15 sedan 65 chrysler 300 4dr hardtop 07 dodge caliber 01 jeep cherokee 07 chrysler pacifica 05 jeep liberty 08 jeep liberty

I drive my 65 chrysler 300 everyday even in winter. I take in the shop at least twice a week and put in on the life and hose the crap out of the underneath , have been doing this since 2007 and havent had a rust problem yet. But them agin if it gets to bad out I have my wife take me to work.

I am at work right now doing a jeep 3.8 engine and everthing is in newton-meters

I started in the early 70s. But i dont have hair!!!!

I wonder that because i told them that I have been working on AMC since 1975, and also i wasent looking for an amx or javelin, i wanted some thing that most people dont look for.

I called them last wedsday they gave me the info on cars i asked about didnt think about titles but they told me everything is for sale, they sell whole cars no parts off of cars thou. You need to make an appointment to see their place told me would love to have me come down going the first of april but need to call them first. thanks for the title info Mchinson

Has any one been to or by Collier Motors in Pikeville NC? I have read a story in the april issue of Hot Rod abou the old AMC dealership. Seems all they have is old AMC cars all for sale over 4acers of them . I did call them about a few cars to see if they had any , Matador X coupe have 7-8 also if the had a 1964 american 440 2door hardtop (my firsr car) they have 1. The prerson i talked to also told me that they also have a 1971 matador 2door Zcode car(401cid ) . I am going down the first part of april to chec these out just wondering if anyone knows of this place ? Also since i am from Pa does NC have titles for cars this old? Trying to make sure that i wont buy a car and cant get it titled in Pa with out a ton of paper work, I usually do a regular title so i can drive them when ever i want. Not sure which one i will get Matodor X $7,500 dont know if it runs, 64 american runs $1,500 needs trans work but does work , 71 matador didnt give me a price told me to came down to look at it but does run and in not too bad of shape.