Tim Wolfe

Found the problem! A previous owner installed an alarm in it and did a poor wiring job. Shorted out the siren and then the wiring. I jump wired around his wiring and car started. I removed his wires and rewired the problem area. Funny thing was, doing the key off & on test didn't show any problem. Having a new top installed next month ( top was down and the car fed a hungry mouse ) New pinstripe to be installed in a few days. Someone used a buffing pad on it, too much pressure or wrong pad. Had a man remove a couple door dings last week, he did an great job. Soon it will look as good as my 1930 concours show car.

My 1991 TC ran fine when it was put in the garage, a few days later it wouldn't start. Engine turns over, battery has full charge, 12 volts going to the ignition coil (new coil didn't help), fuses are good. Could it be the ECM ?

Need part number for an ECM for a 1991 Chrysler TC. Or, a source to buy one. Tim Wolfe #4491

I know this was an older post. Do you have any gas door release levers you made for a TC ? timandjuliawolfe1@roadrunner.com Need a black or dark brown one.

Olsen Gaskets have oil pan gaskets.

I rebuilt my own water pump for a 1930 Chrysler after sending it to a professional out west, lasted less than 10 miles after rebuilding then pump seized and broke in half. I remove the string packing, bore out the threaded part for the packing nut for a lip seal to be inserted and use a new polished shaft. Can't see the seal and it looks original. String packing cuts into the shaft after a while. I also installed new oilite bushings.

But, does anyone else own one? We also own a 1930 Model 70 Royal Coupe that we show at AACA and Concours d'Elegance shows. Brougham was built a few days after the coupe and signed off by the same inspector according to the build sheets. It will stay all original as funds prevent a restoration.

Here is a photo of our all original 1930 Model 70 Brougham. Took several tries for this rookie to get it on the site!

I posted this a while back and sent you pictures using email and you posted them for me.

We have a 1930 Chrysler 70, 2 door Brougham and wondered if anyone else has one. Ours is all original, no repaints, runs and drives. Early production with pennon louvered hood and 218 cu in engine.

Our 1930 Model 70's have the same 3 bolt mounts too,

You might try Then and Now Automotive. They did some motor mounts for a friends Chrysler.

Can someone tell me why the early 218.6 engines have two 1/2" holes in the heat riser and the 268" engine produced later, do not have the holes? My early production cars always ran hot enough the carburetors got hot. I tried plugging the holes and the carburetor now runs nice and cool.

I removed the rawhide seals in mine and replaced it with modern lip seals and then reassembled it. I did this for the axle seals. The hubs where the rawhide seals rubbed were worn/grooved. I put speedi sleeves on the hubs. This worked great and gave the new lip seals a smooth surface to seal on. I have part numbers and photo's if you still need to repair yours. My cars are 1930 Chrysler 70's with woos spoke wheels. I also removed the rope packing in the water pump and installed a lip seal, doesn't cut into the shaft like the rope packing. Small amount of machining is needed. Again, I have photo's and part numbers.

Check out balance beads that go inside the tires, I have them in my 550-18 tires and at 55 MPH they feel great, ( they are small ceramic beads )

I paid a lot of money to have my 1930 pump rebuilt, lasted less then 10 miles and was told no warranty because it was run without any lube in the water. The front bushing locked up on the shaft and doesn't get close to the coolant. The water pump was broken in half! I now rebuild my own water pumps and eliminate the rope packing. I counter bore the part the gland packing nut screws on to that compresses the packing and insert a double lip seal. When the gland nut is installed, you cannot see the seal. You'll need to replace the shaft if it has any signs of wear from the rope seal. Mine works great without any leaks or adjustments.

I used a Rhode Island wiring harness and had no issues. I had them add wires for turning signals and Trippe lights. All wires were tagged and a very easy to follow schematic drawing was included. I was very happy with their product. When installed, everything fit and worked the first try! 1930 Chrysler Model 70 car.

There should be a 1/8" pipe plug in the head above #6 cylinder. Drop a rod thru the hole to the top of the piston and hand crank the engine over, use a dial indicator on the rod to find top dead center. Next time you turn the engine over, stop at .032" before you get to top dead center. Check the location of the rotor for the firing of the plug. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you crank the engine over! I have a kit that was used to set the timing. It was very expensive and a rare item . Let me know if I'm doing it wrong!

Found the Ford repair kits are too large diameter to fit the Chrysler. Thought I had one bought that was listed for a 30 Chrysler. I'll bend the tabs to fit inside the cap and file off the rusted ones,

Looks like the parts in the kit. I have a terrible time adding photo's. I do have a cap that looks like the one in your photo, it has the same problem! But,the kit will not work with that cap due to the round center part is part of the cap casting.

Can someone tell me if a radiator cap rebuild kit for a 32 Ford fit my 30 Chrysler. Look the same, but no sizes listed. My twist lock is about gone and I don't want to lose the cap.

I don't know if Fricken Wipers are still in business or not. If they are they would be able to help you.

I use ceramic balance beads in my 1930 Chrysler and they work real well. I didn't like the look of the old balance weights. You can change tires and use the same beads too, no need to rebalance the tires.

I think I have a trunk rack, will look tomorrow.

Restoration Supply Company sells it. www.RestorationStuff.com 800-306-7008