davenc
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Posts posted by davenc
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I don’t know if Packard specifically used a needle retainer in their version of EE-22 but no retainer is used on the EE-22 of my ‘36 Buick.
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Not a scam. Car is legitimate. Owner is a member of the Roanoke, VA, AACA chapter.
(It’s not mine and I have no personal interest in the sale).
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Tom, the items you list weren’t really orderable options, but rather standard equipment for the ‘36 Buick’s various models. As you went up the model line from Special to Limited, the number of “extras” increased. The orderable options included things like heater, radio, grill guard, white side wall tires. There weren’t many “options”.
David
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I used them to reline all the shoes on my ‘36 Buick 2 years ago. They were easy to work with, knowledgeable, and their price was reasonable. Very happy with the results.
David
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If your intent is to obtain color matching paint for touching up the existing paint, your best path would be to take the car, (or just a painted surface like the hood) to an automotive paint supplier in your area. Think PPG or DuPont paints, but there are other brands. They will use a spectrophotometer to “read” the different hues that make up the existing color. Using that data they can blend paint colors for a good color match…and this is critically important….matching the color as it exists right now.
Even if you could find the original formula for the Duco color of Atlantic Green, it likely would not match as well as you’re hoping. Age of the existing paint, type of paint (lacquer or ??), play a role in how the paint looks today.Hope this helps.
David
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Xander, I have a Power Caster trailer dolly. Runs on 110 volts. I move and back my 22’ closed trailer into a tight spot at home with ease. The dolly connects into the trailer’s electric brakes so the brakes can be activated and hold the trailer when necessary.
It does what I need it to do.
And no, I have no affiliation with Power Caster. I’m just a customer.David
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Try Then and Now Automotive. I got a kit from them to rebuild the double acting AC pump on my '36 Buick. https://www.then-now-auto.com/antique-auto-parts/
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On 12/1/2022 at 11:45 AM, edinmass said:
28K is over retail for that car running and going down the road. I like it.........I think todays number not running from the photos is...............a lot less than 12k. Only because of total lack of parts availibility and driving envelpoe being so slow. Could be a great car for the right person.
Ed, your comment about driving envelope for this car and the thread with the '24 Cadillac for sale got me to thinking. I don't have a good frame of reference.
With a 314 cu. in. engine and 132 in. wheelbase, would these cars be considered somewhat underpowered? Seems like big heavy cars but not a lot of displacement to move them.
What is a reasonable expectation for cruising speed of these cars?
Just looking for a sanity check.
David
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Buick began chrome plating in late ‘28 for the ‘29 model year. So your ‘28 is the last of the nickel plating.
David
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I know Buick was pretty meticulous about putting the part number on individual parts (whenever practical to do so) at least up into the late '20's. Maybe other GM brands did too.
But did Buick have the part numbers stamped on some inconspicuous place on the sheet metal fenders? If so, where would it be?
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I would say $2K -3K tops as she sits. My heart is a sucker for these types of finds. I have two '28 Buicks to prove it. Tires are a sizable investment but that comes later. What you have to be willing to invest is time. Weeks can turn into months painstakingly going through the mechanicals just to get her running reasonably before hitting the road. And you don't want to get her home only to discover a cracked block due to frozen water jackets from such storage. Just keep in mind it's a journey. The journey can drive you crazy at times but you have to enjoy the journey before you enjoy the destination. Go for it! Let us know how the story develops. David
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Definitely a '28. From the pics it's hard to tell but I'm inclined to think it is not a Master. Master's had nickel plated headlight buckets. The pics look like painted buckets so that would make it a Standard model. If we could see just behind the front bumper a Master has a tube running between the front frame horns. Standards do not.
I hope this helps a little. Need better pics from different angle to be sure. Dave
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Here in central Virginia, I'm doing the same as BearsFan. The garage is insulated, and air conditioned. 65 in winter and 75 in summer. Running a dehumidifier with the drain hose plumbed to the outside so there is no bucket to empty. I'm keeping the RH at 45%. 50% just feels a little too moist to me. I have found it's key to have a dehumidifier with large enough capacity that it doesn't have to run continuously. It runs a lot in the summer but shuts itself down in the winter. Once the space is dried down, which includes the concrete floor, it's a very comfortable space to work in.
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VERY nice!!
So, please give us some tips (secrets) on your process. Did you start with the front center-back center-side center routine or did you do the corner to corner X pattern you previously thought about?
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In the For Sale section of the HH Franklin Club website, there is a Franklin being listed as a 1923. I have very limited knowledge of Franklins, but have always admired their styling. (I've been a Buick guy for over 40 years. Don't hold that against me!) Due to shape of the grill shell, it looks to me like it is newer than '23. Can someone enlighten me?
Thanks, David
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Hi Goeff, The '28 windshield regulator knob has threads on the back. It screws on just like all the window and door handles. If you look on the backside of any of those handles you will see what i mean. The handle you have in the picture is actually the handle for the back quarter windows. The correct windshield knob is just like a door window handle, just shorter throw.
David
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Hi Lamar, I've been following your thread on the '36 Roadmaster. I'm dying to know what the engine, or what's left of it, looks like? Is it complete, is it stuck, etc, etc,.
David
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Wayne, What is it about the Brush transmissions that made them so problematic? I'm not a Brush guy, but just curious about the mechanical side of it and why they were so poor. Dave
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4 hours ago, Roger Walling said:
Molasses and water if you have the time.
I made a bath out of 2 X 8's lined with plastic and submerged fenders and Qut. panels. Completely removed ALL or the rust including the deep pores.
They only required a pressure wash when taken out of the bath Then a quick DA with 60 grit.
The second pic shows a fender where the bath was not deep enough and missed the center after I had repositioned it.
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Roger, what is the mix ratio of molasses to water are you using?
Dave
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Guys, just for clarification. From the pictures this is a '28 Buick. The front fenders have smooth top surfaces. '27's have a "crown" stamped in them.
Also this is one of the longer wheelbase Master series cars, versus the shorter wheelbase Standard series cars. The horizontal tube behind the front bumper from frame ear to frame ear give it away as a Master series! David
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What are the top 5 most active AACA Regions or Chapters in the USA?
I'm wondering if AACA has the ability to compile or determine such information.
I know the definition of "active" is subjective, but I'm thinking in terms of club group activities, club outings, club driving tours, member participation, etc. Anything other than just gathering once a month at a local restaurant to have a cheap meal and call it a club meeting.Dave
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I've also used Cal Rubber. They have ribbed mat material that very closely resembles the original. Order by the foot and cut to your needs.
As for the felt, go to McMaster Carr. The have various thicknesses and sell by the foot.
David
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Todd, We'll need a lot more details to help you on this one....'34 did not have vacuum-assisted hydraulic brakes originally. Still had mechanical brakes in '34. Dave
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I've done this adjustment on my '36 EE22. With the screws out that hold the top cover in place, set the top cover back on and start the car. This just makes me feel better than having the bowl full of fuel sitting open when the car fires. I adjusted the float to yield the fuel level to the recommended 5/8 inch. My car runs well at this fuel level. David
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DeWalt 18volt replacement batteries on ebay,are they any good?
in General Discussion
Posted
I’ve purchased a few of the cheap Dewalt replacement batteries for my old 14.4 volt drill thru Amazon. The batteries seem to work fine for me.
You need to be aware of the chemistry of the replacement batteries. The old tools used NiCad batteries. That chemistry has been phased out. The next chemistry in line would be NiMH, (Nickel metal hydride). Those do have longer life than the NiCads and they will recharge sufficiently using the same charger as the NiCad.
But the world is moving to Lithium batteries and replacements for Dewalt stuff is available in Lithium. The caveat is that Li batteries require their own charger. (A “smart” charger that monitors the charge rate and charge capacity). This is important. Li batteries are extremely sensitive to being over charged. If over charged they can go into thermal runaway and there will be ensuing flames that water cannot extinguish.