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About BobRobb

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  1. Been having a problem with heating up at speed. The coolant wants to foam to the consistency of whipped cream at higher rpms lowering the cooling efficiency. I had the head planed the last time it was off and installed a new head gasket. Haven't had the block magnafluxed since installing new pistons and rings way back in the 1970s or 1980s. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi, Attached are some fuzzy pictures with some dimensions of these parts. Good Luck on your project. Bob
  3. Be glad to take some more photos and will also get you some dimensions in the next day or so.
  4. West--just saw your posting. My Packard charger is somewhat different and I too am curious about the age. It has 3 feet with holes to attach it to a wall or other vertical surface: [ATTACH]63050[/ATTACH] Bob
  5. My '36 120 has these parts still attached, see photo--click on thumbnail for larger image: [ATTACH]63046[/ATTACH]
  6. Don--I know nothing about Detroit Lubricator Carbs but I did have my "modern" (56 Packard Caribbean) Rochester carbs rebuilt by Daytona in New Smyrna Beach, Florida. They did an excellent job. My restorer just installed them on the car, attached the linkage and the car started without a single adjustment. You might contact them with your questions and maybe they can even rebuild them with the same quality as they did my Rochesters. However, they are not inexpensive as you would expect from first class workmanship.
  7. I am planning to bypass my stock 1956 Senior Twin-Ultramatic transmission cooler and install an auxiliary air cooler. All of the coolers I have found both in stores and online mount to the radiator with heavy straps that run through the fins of the radiator. I want to mount a unit with its own bracket, in front of the radiator with an air gap between the rad and cooler. Has anyone discovered a cooler with attached brackets that can be mounted to the gravel pan in front of the rad or have any experience in fabricating a bracket that I could use? Thanks. Bob
  8. Yep -- And the entire drive train -- engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential. The Californians tried this a few years ago. They spent taxpayer dollars to pour sand into the cylinders and oil of engines that were politically incorrect and then ran them to completely destroy them so they could not be recycled into other vehicles. Bob Robb
  9. The so-called "clunker bill" has been sent for President Obama's signature. The bill is H.R.2346 and has been attached to a war spending bill so that it will get an almost guaranteed signature. In Section 1302 the bill specifies the destruction of the complete drivetrain. Sounds to me like its straight out of California. A brief summary: <span style="font-weight: bold">TITLE XIII--CONSUMER ASSISTANCE TO RECYCLE AND SAVE PROGRAM (2) DISPOSITION OF ELIGIBLE TRADE-IN VEHICLES- (A) IN GENERAL- For each eligible trade-in vehicle surrendered to a dealer under the Program, the dealer shall cer
  10. Can anyone tell me how to remove the drive gear from the housing without doing damage to the gear itself? I have already removed the housing from the cable. Thanks.
  11. 21-ML-101185-ML-<br /><br />Bob, I sent this to the Packard Forum. Just follow the link. I think most any upholsterer would want to replace everything. The Packard guys wil send you to the right people, I'm sure. Wayne Burgess
  12. BobRobb


    I am restoring a 1956 Packard Caribbean Convertible as a nice driver. The upholstery is good but coming apart in some of the seams and also the leather in this car was coated with some sort of a paint material. I am interested in preserving and conserving the original upholstery (as much as possible), both the leather side and the fabric side of the cushions. Does anyone know of an upholsterer who is familiar with these Caribbean cushions and knows how to re-coat the leather and would take an interest in my project? Thanks in advance
  13. I have a 1936 Packard 120. Does anyone know what would be a good substitute for the original fuel line insulation Packard used. My car did not have any on the line when I got it 35 years ago but I have seen some and suspect it was some sort of asbestos material. I would like to avoid some of the offerings of some well-known discount auto parts suppliers because the stuff they sell doesn't look like it would work well (does not look very authentic nor woven very tightly). Thanks in advance.
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