dnoznesky

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About dnoznesky

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  1. After careful listening I think the discussion has been beneficial. My conclusion is .008 intake and .010 exhaust and done on a hot engine. Thanks to all for the input. David
  2. I did confuse myself. The book says .010 and .012 and thats what I'm using. Thanks.
  3. I spoke too soon and realized the error. Should have used my glasses for the post. The clearances I have are .0010 and .0012 and NOT .010/.012. But sounds like I should do the adjustments hot.
  4. Thank you Terry. Very interesting. I got the clearances from two other 13 Buick owners and the Brass Buick site. Obviously that doesn't make it right. I'll try your settings and make the adjustments while hot. David Noznesky
  5. I have a 1913 Buick Model 25 and will be adjusting the valves. The best information I have is that the clearances are .010 intake and .012 for exhaust. Is it best to adjust the valves cold, hot or running. Any help is appreciated. David Noznesky Hobe Sound, FL
  6. I have a 1913 Buick Model 25 and will be adjusting the valves. The best information I have is that the clearances are .010 intake and .012 for exhaust. Is it best to adjust the valves cold, hot or running. Any help is appreciated. David Noznesky Hobe Sound, FL
  7. I have the engine apart on my 1913 Buick Model 25. Is there a source for any of the gaskets needed for reassembly? Any help appreciated. David Noznesky Hobe Sound, FL 1913 Buick Model 25
  8. Roger - Thank you very much for your response. I'm in Florida, not that it matters anymore. Who would you suggest I contact. I plan on changing out all four rod bearings. We want the spec so we can see if there has been any change and of course the bearings. Thanks again. David
  9. I have a 1913 Buick, Model 25. Heard an engine knock and appeared to be in the crank case. Removed pan and one of the connecting rod bearings had disintegrated. I need some help. Can anyone provide me for this engine: the spec (dia) of the connecting rod journal; the torque spec for connecting rod caps; and a source for the bearings. Any help would be greatly appreciated. David Noznesky dnoznesky@aol.com 1913 Buick Model 25 Hobe Sound, FL
  10. I have a 1913 Buick, Model 25. Heard an engine knock and appeared to be in the crank case. Removed pan and one of the connecting rod bearings had disintegrated. I need some help. Can anyone provide me for this engine: the spec (dia) of the connecting rod journal; the torque spec for connecting rod caps; and a source for the bearings. Any help would be greatly appreciated. David Noznesky dnoznesky@aol.com 1913 Buick Model 25 Hobe Sound, FL
  11. Thanks Larry. If the rope doesn't work I'll try this.
  12. My 1913 Buick has rear drum and strap over drum brakes. Does anyone know of a source to reline or rebuild the brakes?
  13. Thank you. I suspect you are correct and it makes sense. I used gear oil in the timing case through the plugged opening on top. I plan to use graphite rope/packing in place of the felt. Any thought on where to get felt that would work? It appears the flange, when in place, compresses whatever is inside and thus graphite rope packing seemed acceptable.
  14. Dave - I see you've gotten lots of good sources. Here is one I found one of the best for Brass Buicks - The Buick Heritage Alliance. I have a 1913 Buick Model 25. David Buick Heritage Alliance (BHA) - On Display at the The AACA Museum
  15. I have a 1913 Buick model 25. The crankshaft comes out of the front of the engine passing through a gear box. The gearbox powers a side shaft for the water pump and magneto. In front of the gearbox there is a fan pulley then the male end for the hand crank to engage. As it exits the front of the gearbox there is an oil seal which expands with compression. I need to replace the seal. Any recommendations on what the seal should be - leather, rubber or packing rope? Also, where to get a suitable replacement or must I fabricate one. Any recommendations please! Thanks in advance. David<!-- google_ad_section_end -->