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Everything posted by oldford

  1. Lovejoy makes many different size couplings. When I had my 27 President, that is what I used... Frank
  2. I can remember when my Father-In-Law helped me with my first car in the mid eighties. He was an elderly farmer who would deliver eggs from Hudson to Hillsdale, NY in the forties using a Model A pick-up, a distance of about 20 miles. He told me he would always make sure he had three spare tires for the trip that he made three times a week. One for the trip to Hillsdale, one for the trip back, and one just in case... Now we can go thousands of miles an may never need the spare. Frank
  3. I had a thread some time ago regarding my Snap-On item. It's a display case shaped like a typical garage with a removable plexi cover. I use it to hold some of my model cars and trucks. Bought it in Rhinebeck over 20 years ago. When I brought it up several years ago, no one had ever seen one like it... Frank
  4. 91% on cars of the 30's. now onto the next.... Frank
  5. I have a few... The 3 on the left are brass with some chrome plating left, the two on the right has some slight surface rust, so they must be steel. I guess if Snyders can get $5 each for repros that don't match what you need, I can get $5 each for originals that need plating. I can put them in a padded envelope for $2.50 more. Frank
  6. From the factory, the Graham in 1929 was positive ground. Frank
  7. For your sockets contact John Boorinakis 545 Dairy Road Auburn, CA 95603 Phone 530-885-4956 Not sure if he has wood bows or not. If you give me the outside - outside width of the bow you need, I might have some. I would suggest you stay away from laminated bows. Go with solid clear oak... Frank
  8. oldford

    Marmon 34 Parts

    Can you send a measurement for the drag link you need. In my pile of Marmon stuff, there is a large drag link... Frank I just realized his post was from 2017... I'll pm
  9. Not to Rhinebeck yet, but I had it at the Kingston Firetruck show twice, maybe you saw it there... Frank
  10. This on is not as big as yours, but I have just as much fun with it. Perhaps more fun than driving any of my old cars... Frank
  11. Is your generator case grounded? I have a set of LED lights that run on my Model A Ford and kept having flashing issues. I even blew out the LED's on one lamp. I sent them back to United Pacific and they informed that they appeared to have been blown by a power surge. Since the only ground for the generator case is via the mounting hardware (bolts & sliding brackets) I grounded the case to the engine using a #10 stranded wire. Never had an issue again. Frank
  12. Check with Sam Barnett in Georgia, I believe. He frequents this site as sambarn and has a ton of Marmon stuff. I'll see if I can find his contact info... Frank
  13. I have some solenoid repair kits with new bolts. Not sure what they fit, but I'll measure them today and attach a photo. Frank I just checked, the bolts are too short, 1 1/4". Sorry.
  14. How well I remember the Ridgefield meet. In fact, if you remember, Bob, I bought my very first flea market part from you. It was an accessory steering wheel for my 1912 Ford touring because the original one was too small and I wanted a little more leverage. Not sure, but do I see Ralph DeAngelis walking around the flea market around 1:18 in the second flick? I tried to identify others, but the camera was moving a bit too fast. Memories... Frank
  15. There may have been a felt seal between the washer and the shaft that drives the timer. Frank
  16. Highly unlikely, since this is an insert bearing engine, not babbit..
  17. Very similar to the carb used on the Model B Ford (32-34 4 cyl.), except the mixing valve/choke rod connection is not there... Frank
  18. There is not really much difference between the two. The secondary of the coil will be energized when the current in the primary is suddenly interrupted. The top circuit (series) will induce a current in the secondary when the points open and the bottom circuit (parallel) will induce the current when the points close... Frank
  19. I once, in a former life, owned a 1964 1/2 Mustang (yes, a real one) that had a 260 v8 with a 3 speed crunch box. It was not restored, but was quite presentable. After driving the car for a few years, almost daily, the engine started to smoke badly. So bad, it was embarrassing, even for me. I was going to have the engine rebuilt, but when done, I'd be in for $3000 and I would still have a 260. I decided to go for a very low mileage 302 HO from an 89 Mustang and I dropped a T6 kit in it too. But I chose to make it look like a 64 1/2 mustang under the hood. Generator, distributor, etc. The only way one could tell that the combo was not correct, other than the numbers, was to look at the shift handle coming up through the console. This kind of modification, I have no issue with, maybe because I did it. The other day on the Barrett Jackson auction, some guy showed up with a mid fifties Ford product, with (you guessed it) a 350 chevy. My take is that if the modification is done tastefully, no problem, but of course, it's your car.... Frank
  20. Good guess, that French roof and the tight front fenders fit Stude... The drum lights are Stude also. The five bolt hubs make it a Special Six... Frank
  21. Bill Hirsch makes a vinyl dye that is more suitable... If it doen't clean up well, try the dye. I've used it and it does not wash out... Frank
  22. There is an O2 Stromberg on ebay right now. Ebay No. 274150260639. Perhaps you should check it out... Frank
  23. Most definitely 1911. 1910 had a brass radiator, 1912 had doors... Frank
  24. I guess I mistakenly thought Hershey Region would read this forum. Foolish me....
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