Jay Wolf

I guess my question still is?<BR>Can it be shown?<P>Can it be shown in production class,<BR>Who could tell me?<BR>You can see the picture above it is not a street bike.<P>I did notice in the "2001 NADA Consumer Antique, Classic and special interest Motorcycle Appraisal Guide"<BR>in the back under "Low production and insufficient data motorcycles"<P><BR>It list two different Jawa "Speedway racer"<BR>bikes so maybe it was a production "speedway racer" bike?<BR>How would I go about finding out.<P>One reason I and harping on this I have not bought the bike yet and I do not want to unless I can show it.

Is he correct in "No documentation, No AACA showing"?<BR>I was planning on restoring it, but if that is the case, it sound like it would be a waste of money. <BR> So in AACA you can only show a “Specific” race vehicle? <BR>Not just a vehicle built and used for racing?<BR>Not even knowing the # or anything, being from out of the country, finding any information on it would next to impossible.<BR>It has been though a couple of owners in the US, I am not even sure I could find the Dealer who imported it.<BR> I don’t think sending letters Norway Racing organizations ask about a <BR>"Metalflake Blue Jawa" that ran flat track in the late 60 early 70’s would be very fruitful.<P>Could it enter in regular classification or would it be considered a homemade or a Modified Jawa Stock Bike and not egible?

I had a question about entering a Flat Track motorcycle in racing class.<P>The bike is a late 60's it came from Norway from a dealer. The bike is race only racing frame, no brakes, never intended for the street, it shows wear so it was used.<P>BUT (the big but)<BR>I have no race history or anyway to prove it has raced, other than it is obvious<BR>it would have no other purpose.<P>Can this be shown in AACA

Soak them in water. I have to do it to my Elgin's wheels about every 2 years.<BR>I got two great big Tupperware like storage containers at Wall mart and I just soak them for a week or 2 and they stay real tight for a bout 2 years. When I first got the car I did everything I could to keep the wheels aways from water. The wheels got so loose they would wooble and click as you drove down the road. A couple of old guy told me "Soak them"! I thought they were crazy but it worked for me.<BR> <P><A HREF="http://beaver.vinu.edu/newelgin.HTM" TARGET=_blank>More info on Jay's Elgin</A><P> <p>[ 06-29-2001: Message edited by: elgin 16 ]

I have some Dort parts I think are from a 1917. I have block, head, pistons, crank, cam shaft, starter, fan, generator,<BR>pedals, clutch (good cone type), flywheel, transmission case, drive shaft with pinion gear,<BR>oil pump, timing gears, spare tire mount, steering box, (works free)<BR> left and right halves of rear end housing, rear hubs (wheels shot), and brake parts.<BR>rear springs and most mounts, motor mounts and a few other parts. Have <BR>Been stored outside, they need restored. <BR>Engine is now disassembled, gears missing out of transmission. I used the gears from the transmission in my Elgin.<BR>They are not doing me any good. If you need them make me and offer for all or part.<BR>I can shoot photos of specific parts if you interested. <A HREF="http://159.218.3.3/dort1.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://159.218.3.3/dort1.jpg</A> Engine and stuff had been disassembled since picture.<BR>Jay Wolf Jwolf@indian.vinu.edu (812)888 4172<BR>

Our club only meets every other month in the winter I won't see John till our next meeting on May 16th, he lives about 90 mile away for me.<BR>I could get a picture or take one then,<BR>if you willing to wait.<P>One Templer he has did something special, I can't remember, but it won some Rally or something. <P>John's museum is not open to the public but he welcomes guests, if you contact him, he is in South Western Indiana right on the Ohio River.<P><BR>------------------<BR><p>[This message has been edited by elgin 16 (edited 03-30-2001).]

John Smith in Newburgh in has 3 of them.<BR>All roadsters.<BR>I am sure he would let you have a picture.<BR>Contact me. There has been a touring for sale in Auto Round-up.<BR><P>------------------<BR>

I have the original Care and Operation manual to my 1916 Elgin 6.<BR>The car is about 2500 LB and uses 33x4 tires the manual states<BR>"Three-fourths of all tire trouble is due to lack of pressure: there-fore, a gauge should be used to determine the pressure and the tire should be kept inflated to 20 pounds pressure per inch of width"<P>My tires are about 3.5 inches wide so about 70 Lbs.<P>The part I find odd, is my car came with all white smoothes on front so I guess width would be max width of the side wall as the smoothes had no tread width.<BR><P>------------------<BR>

I have a duster, touring hat, goggles and nickers.<BR><P>------------------<BR>

What size you need?<BR>I have a set I bought for my Elgin,<BR>but the stuck out too far to get <BR>the top bows<BR>over them without forcing.<BR>It is a mid size car,<BR>Lots bigger than a T but smaller<BR>than a Packard or big Buick.<BR>There are some photos of my car you can see the supports at <A HREF="http://beaver.vinu.edu/Newelgin.HTM" TARGET=_blank>http://beaver.vinu.edu/Newelgin.HTM</A> <P>They are just like the ones on the car except the stick out about 1/2 inch farther.<P>I could send you pictures if you wish.<P>Jay Wolf<P>------------------<BR>

What car was it?<BR> I think your best bet would be to discribe<BR>the car and see if anyone who reads the list talk to the person.<BR>Even if AACA has a list lots of spaces are sold on the black market the weekend of Hershey. <BR>I talk to several owners some I have cards from.<P>Jay Wolf<P>------------------<BR>

I have taken a trailer out to Hershey<BR>for 12 years,<BR>Now that all the paved areas are full of show or car corral, they park you out in the<BR>grass, mud. There is no charge to park your trailer unless you stay with it then it is $30 a night, Plan on cleaning your tires and waiting in traffic Saturday morning.<P>the new trailer parking is shown over the hill behind the white field.<P>Jay

First I would ask what weight oil are you using, most old car don't use seals,<BR>just heavy oil,<BR>my 1916 calls fo half heavy oil 600 wt <BR>and half vasoline in summer,<BR>straight 600 wt in winter.<BR>anything thinner runs right out of mine.<BR>I learned the hard way on my rear end and brakes.<P>Jay wolf<P>------------------<BR>

I had my shaft looked at at <BR>a Local Semi Truck place.<BR>The do shafts all the time,<BR>My was fine they didn't even charge me.<BR>My probem was the rubber mount on the Transmission had colapsed and <BR>droped the tailshaft about 1/2 inch.<P>Jay wolf<P>------------------<BR><p>[This message has been edited by elgin 16 (edited 08-18-2000).]

Blueflame.<BR>Local chapters can be what you want it to be.<BR>I have started and been is several local clubs (non AACA), but around here they <BR>start well but always seem to be taken <BR>over by the Street rodders looking for an excuse for a night out <BR>of drinking. There is nothing wrong with that, but it is not the type<BR> of club I want to be a member of.<BR>About a year ago we started the <BR>AACA LOVeR .<BR>Lower Ohio Valley Evansville Region. <BR>We have had a great time attending shows together <BR>and just meeting. We went to Nashville. <A HREF="http://beaver.vinu.edu/nashville.HTM" TARGET=_blank>http://beaver.vinu.edu/nashville.HTM</A> <P>We are setting up a home page but it isn't <BR>Done I need to get it approved by Club next week<BR>But the start of it is up <A HREF="http://beaver.vinu.edu/lover.HTM" TARGET=_blank>http://beaver.vinu.edu/lover.HTM</A> <P>I wasn't very involved in setting up the region,<BR>But I don't think it was that hard.<P>To make a long story short we have great people, who are there because <BR>they love old cars. People with vast knowledge and a willingness to help, have come out <BR>of the woodwork and it has been very positive <BR>For all concerned. I think we are up to about 50 members.<BR>I personally have been amazed of the cars in my area I never knew existed.<P><BR>We are not sure why but in all AACA list our name doesn't have the E in it, it is LOVR<BR>So we just use it as LOVeR so people know we are in Southern Indiana.<P>I just had some patches made and we now have nametags.<BR>We are looking to to hosting a tour in a few years. maybe a show someday<P>I am also a member of White River Valley<BR>Region in Indianapolis Indiana, but it <BR>is over 3 hours from my house and I <BR>couldn't make their meeting without taking off work. They do a lot of tours and cookouts<BR> for club members so they are different the LOVeR, but it is what works for your group.<BR>LOVer meeting are about and hour from my house.<P>good luck<P>Jay Wolf<BR>AACA LOVeR <BR><P>------------------<BR>

For sale late teens Dort parts.<BR>I have block, head, pistons, crank, cam shaft, starter (Westinghouse), fan, generator (Westinghouse),<BR>pedals, clutch (good cone type), flywheel, transmission case, drive shaft with pinion gear,<BR>oil pump, timing gears, spare tire mount, steering box, (works good shape)<BR> left and right halves of rear end housing, rear hubs (wheels shot), and brake parts.<BR>rear springs and most mounts, motor mounts and a few other parts. Have <BR>Been stored outside, they need restored. Make me and offer on all or part.<BR>Engine is now disassembled, gears missing out of transmission<BR>Located in southern Indiana<BR>Jwolf@indian.vinu.edu<BR> <A HREF="http://beaver.vinu.edu/dort.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://beaver.vinu.edu/dort.jpg</A> <P> <A HREF="http://beaver.vinu.edu/dort1.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://beaver.vinu.edu/dort1.jpg</A> <P><p>[This message has been edited by elgin 16 (edited 08-07-2000).]

For sale 00?s-10?s steering box <P>Jackson Church Willcox Co.<BR>Saginaw, Mich USA<BR>Pat March 17, 1903<BR>14997 Steering box<BR>Different design, works well,<BR>Treads on output shaft could use chasing.<BR>$50 Plus shipping<BR>Jwolf@indina.vinu.edu<BR>(812) 888 4172<BR><P>------------------<BR>

I bought a pile of old car parts,<BR>Hoping some of them might fit my Elgin.<BR>I did get some transmission gears I could use, but that was all I could use. I am willing to offer<BR>any of the left over parts to any one who needs them Cheap<P>Things I know about the engine / car<BR>Trans has 1915 date on it, it has prime cups <BR>so I would guess it is after 1915 before 1920<P>4 cylinder L head Bore 3.25 Stoke 5.45 Displacement about 180<BR>Electric start (square)<BR>Round generator<BR>Distributor in front<BR>Cone clutch <BR>3 speed manual Patent Date 1915 made by Illinois Mechanics Foundry, Rockford IL<BR>Cantilever rear suspension <BR>Enclosed Drive shaft<BR>Artillery Wheels<BR>Mechanical rear brakes both internal and external <BR>Rear end bolt together in the center<BR>Block cast separate from the cylinders<BR>Steel oil pan with odd channels for oil splashers not tray <BR>Emergency brake is part of the brake pedal<BR>(like a golf cart)<BR>2 main bearings<BR>2 blade fan<BR>I have steering box and other misc parts.<BR>Parts have been setting out for years but could be restored. <BR>Motor is dissembled.I have most internal parts, <BR>I have rear springs, some mounts, some misc. rods, as in tie <BR>and throttle, the cone clutch looks good.<P>I you are looking for something, drop me a note and I send you <BR>pictures and description of what I have that you might need.<BR>I can ship smaller parts or deliver to the Hoosier or Hershey.<BR>Jwolf@indian.vinu.edu<BR><P>------------------<BR>

HPOF I have a 1916 HPOF Elgin, my comments on HPOF.<BR>First HPOF is not a competition. <BR>Remember the purpose behind HPOF. There are lots of reasons but the main one being to preserve original cars to document how they were when the came out of the factory.<BR>For instants if you are restoring a 32 Nash, need information about where the pin stripes went.<BR>You can get the name of an owner of a 32 Nash with HPOF striping and find out.<P>As far as the HPOF certification, from what I understand is <BR>You fill out a form where you state what is original and what isn't. (I have done this)<BR>The car must be at least 50% original, broken down into different 4 categories.<BR>When you get your HPOF you get a plaque, but then that is it, each meet you get a little participant tag.<BR>So if you want to do HPOF, do it for yourself not the award. <BR>I have met the guy (his name escapes me) from TN who is in charge of HPOF, he is real great guy and is not in AACA to argue with anybody, but is in AACA to do the best job he can, any car he certifies as HPOF we want it to be "take it to the bank" sure it is the way it came out of the factory. We should all applaud him for that. This is not as easy as it may seem, my car is 85 years old, and parts replaced 75 years ago are hard to tell from original. Remember HPOF is not a completion so it is better to error on the side of a feature not being original that to say one is when you are only 70% sure it is and incorrectly document something.<P>If your car doesn't win the HPOF certification, you can still enter it and show in HPOF and have fun with it.<BR> <BR>I would bet, if you wrote AACA they would send you a HPOF certification sheet.<P>Jay Wolf <BR>1916 Elgin.<BR><P>------------------<BR>

Too tired or old to crank???<BR>1916 Elgin Six Touring<BR>AACA HPOF, Factory Electric start,<BR>Run and starts well, Full top and side curtains, $20,000, <BR>Will trade for High wheeler ,steamer <BR>or Pre-1915, custom trailer available, possible delivery.<BR>Photos at <A HREF="Http://beaver.vinu.edu/Newelgin.HTM" TARGET=_blank>Http://beaver.vinu.edu/Newelgin.HTM</A> <BR> Jwolf@indian.vinu.edu,<BR>(812) 882 8666, (812) 888 4172<P><BR> CONTACT: Jay D. Wolf<BR> PHONE: 812 888 4172<P>------------------<BR>

My opinion may differ from others, but, take it as one man's opinion.<BR>I used to have a Trailex Aluminum open trailer. I loved it <BR>I pulled it all the time it was no big deal, it just went everywhere the motor home went.<BR>I had a 1964 Amphicar on it and a 49 Jeepster.<BR>Then I bought a 1916, I pulled a few times on it but the wind at 70 MPH was too much<BR>For the 1916's top, so I decide to buy and enclosed. I sold the 15 year old Trailex for more than <BR>I paid for it. And ordered a custom trailer from Avenger. (top of line Vindicator)<BR>Since my 1916 is over 7 foot tall I had raise the roof, since I had to raise the roof they talked me in to getting a Wide body 8.5 foot. (As they said, it would be better proportioned." The car is short so (15 feet) So I got a 20 footer. I went ahead and loaded up the trailer, it has a walk on roof with a ladder,<BR>It has a fold up bed and table in the front, it has cabinets, it has a window in the side door. (Almost $8000)<BR>Well I went to pick it up in Michigan, boy was it big it. It dwarfed my little motor home,<BR>Then I realized other than length the motor home would fit in it.<BR>To make a long story short, I hate it, I hate pulling it, it makes me dread taking the car anywhere.<BR>Comparison<BR>Motor home gas mileage Dodge 1 ton 360 CI 4V <BR>Alone 12 MPG<BR>With Trailex open trailer 10 MPG<BR>With enclosed trailer 5 MPG<P>Open trailer you can see behind you, thought and around car.<BR>Enclosed, even with great big trailer mirrors you can't see around 8.5 foot, then when you disconnect<BR>the trailer with the big mirrors you can't park in the current parking spots, then some always runs<BR>in to your mirror when you park and moves them.<P>In traffic Cars will let you pull out to see what you have on the open trailer,<BR>With the enclose you will wait as no one want you in front of them blocking there view of signs etc.<P>Enclosed is nice as the car stays clean, but what a pain to tow.<P>I got rid of the old motor home in favor of a 3/4 custom van,<BR>I still hate to tow it but my Gas mileage at 55 mph is up to about 9 (19 without trailer)<BR>One other thing I hate, when big truck comes up to pass you especially cab over trucks,<BR>They push on the back of the trailer and you have to do major corrections to stay in your lane.<BR>and with a 11 foot tall, 8.5 foot wide box behind you, you can't see them coming, until the <BR>All of a sudden whip out on you.<BR>I have a weight distribution hitch and anti-sway bar setup.<P>I guess it isn't such a short story.<BR>But my opinion is buy as small and light of trailer as you can get by with.<BR>Don't consider enclosed unless you need it for storage of the car or wind protection.<BR>Just because a little car hauler doesn't make much difference, don't let yourself <BR>believe a bigger one will pull the same.<P>Jay Wolf<P><BR>------------------<P><BR>[This message has been edited by elgin 16 (edited 07-17-2000).]<P>[This message has been edited by elgin 16 (edited 07-17-2000).]<p>[This message has been edited by elgin 16 (edited 07-17-2000).]

Leave it original.<BR>A repaint people expect it to be perfect,<BR>An original is accepted with a few imperfections.<P>Think about HPOF in the future.<BR><P>------------------<BR>

I look up max from my chart<BR>a 3/8 inch standard bolt Low carbon <BR>max on it is 20 FP<BR>Max on a 3/8" #3 is 30 FP<BR>My clamps are showing a lot of wear so I put flat washers under the bolts, Do you <BR>this that could cause them to come loose.

I have a 1916 with wooden wheels.<BR>Does any one know the proper torque<BR>for the rim clamps.<BR>The bolts are old non hardened.<BR>I set them at 25 LB thinking <BR>that was all the bolts could take.<BR>But they came loose after about 10 miles.<P>Thanks for your help<P>------------------<BR>

Can you crank it by hand?<BR>That will tell you if it is the engine or the starter.<P>------------------<BR>