Jay Wolf

Look at some of the AACA regional site like ours at http://beaver.vinu.edu/lover.HTM We have a lot of likes off of ours to events our club attends

I have some old unknown ones, let me know what they look like and I'll see if they match. I could take a picture of them if you'd like. I think most of mine are from the 20's

To add a signature to your AACA post that appears every time you post automatically. Log on to the site. At the top of any forum page click ?My Home? On the ?My Home? page at the top it will say ?My Home for (Your Name)? Click on (your Name) Under "Main Configuration" there will be ?Personal information, email, password, etc.? off to the right of that there will be an ?edit? Click on edit. About ½ way down on that page you will see a box with ?Signature (up to 256 characters). You may use UBBCode in your signature? above it. Anything you put in that box will be your signature As a example my signature is coded and looks like this in the box. ?Jay Wolf AACA Life Member #963877 [ur*l=http://159.218.3.3/Thunderbird/] Thunderbird [u*rl=http://159.218.3.3/Newelgin.HTM] Elgin [ur*l=http://159.218.3.3/Indian/] Indian [ur*l=http://159.218.3.3/rokons/Jays/] Rokon ? (Remove the *'s, I had to put them in to stop it from converting the code. But is can be simple text like Your name AACA Number The above code minus the *'s looks like this in a signature with the vehicle names as hotlinks.

I wonder if the registration could be changed to reflect one's AACA membership #. Maybe line to put in your number, the it would say AACA member not just (forum) member. Just a thought.

Just put you AACA # in your signature If your not sure how to do that just drop me a note I'll send instructions. That easy enough, but it wouldn't stop someome from just making a number up and putting in there signature.

I have a question about the AACA site. Can you view your register vehicles? When the pre registration for meets was open you could view them and make changes by acting like you were registering and then quiting. Now that there are no meets to register for you can?t get the then is there another way to get to them?

Depending on the age of the car on older car I use SS wire and just run the wire though the core of the radiator, on newer cars I always used #6 brass bolts and strip of aluminum to put behind the grill. AACA does sell a holder you can attach to a license plate bolt.

There is one on the east side of Salem IL on US 50 the neon sign was still there until a few years ago. Many time I thought about stopping and making an offer on the sign, I guess somebody finally did.

That is what I was told. I has a first time Preservation vehicle and I had a dot

Best one I ever seen in Indiana was a gynecologist with Y DOC

Was it in the chocolate field? http://beaver.vinu.edu/10-10-2003%20Hershey/PICT2292.html I don?t think it was a Studebaker

Where did you get this? "Good advice but remember that AACA only accepts Factory Documentation...not articles about your car from Road and Track, not Tom McCahill's remembrances, not photos of your buddy's car. Factory Documentation includes owner's manuals, factory advertising, parts manuals and the like." The manual states. "6. Judges will accept factory written proof of authenticity without question. Verbal opinion of the owner may be accepted or rejected at the team captain's discretion" I have never been on a team that rejected any documentation, even verbal. At evey judging school, judge?s breakfast I have been to it was said over and over If you are not 100% sure do NOT deduct. AACA judging is not a adversarial relationship, it is not the owner and against the judges. It is the owner?s peers try to give the owner the recognition they deserve

It is funny were were talking about this and I found this in the AACA rummage box. http://www.aaca.org/publications/rummagebox/2003/fall03/fall03.htm#Who%20Am%20I if this doesn't go directly check out "Who am I?"

AACA is a simple ?visual? judging, that is it. No looking up to see if # match. I have asked a lot of questions at judging schools and from I have been told. If power steering was available on your car it is acceptable, it doesn?t make any difference if your exact car came with power steering or not. If a 283 was available in your car from the factory it is acceptable, it doesn?t make any difference if your exact car came with a 283 or not. It you have 1954 Dodge with the battery under the floor or seat and you can not see it, it doesn?t make and difference what kind of battery it is, you can?t see it no deductions, if it is under the hood in site it has to be of the correct type. AACA judges do not touch the car or remove any part to see another part. Hoses, clamps, bulbs etc have to be the correct type and match; they do not have to be the correct brand. There are no deductions for replacement parts as long as they are of the same type and material as supplied originally. AACA judges have to judge cars they have never ever even heard of and have no way of knowing if the car came with Remy or Packard plug wires or whatever, the only thing they can base their judging on is if the plug wires on the car are of a type that were available and used during the year of that cars production. You may not like it but that is the way the AACA judging rules were written a long time ago before the current standards of restoration were even thought of. Remember AACA show are what they are because of the car owners willing to bring their cars to the event. Nitpicking the heck out of the owner?s cars servers nobody, not the club or the owners. True an AACA first national or senior does not mean the car is perfect, it is not as high of an award as a first place on your Corvette at or Corvette meet, but it is not supposed to. I would hope you would all agree that any car with a AACA first national is a great looking car.

I would like to a a few more comments:. First clones are totally acceptable in AACA as along as they are how they ?could? have come out of the factory. In AACA cars do not have to match the build sheet like they do at most ?Brand? meets. Appearance is the major factor in AACA judging not the vehicle heritage. As far as knowing what to correct on your car, you know what your car needs, AACA judging is simple, it is taught in schools at every national event, the sheets are available. Its simple go to the school, do the apprentice judging. Honestly judge your own car and see where it needs work. I think all judges would agree although judging seems very subjective when you get a bunch of judges together, even the pickiest and the most lenient the car will score + or ? 10 points. When I did apprentice judging I was really surprise how close we all were, no body sees it all, nobody misses it all. I was told by an instructor at the Hershey judging school that you can look at all score a car has received all over the country by different judges and the scores will all be within 5 points so the system works. Even if you are the strictest judge of all AACA has limits on how much you can deduct. Take a door for instance it the door is there and opens and shuts, and serve it?s intended propose you can?t deduct more than 4 points for it, it can be dented and have big rust holes but you can still only deduct 4 points per door. Even if you are the easiest judge of all if you tell your chief judge zero points on a dented door, the chief judge will correct you and subtract the needed points. So it will all even out. If you don?t believe me go judge some cars with the AACA. It is the best system I have seen, maybe a little lenient but a great system

AACA does not disclose scores so they can get judges, AACA has a hard enough time getting people to volunteer their time and money to judge without having the judge have to worry about so and so coming after them to question why they deducted 5 points for paint or what was so wrong with trim to merit a 3 point deduction. As a judge I would not want some unhappy car owner chasing me down to complain. As a AACA judge I am not allowed to discuss or disclose anything about the judging of the car. The criteria AACA judges on are in the judging manual, it is on line or you can purchase one. If you read the manual you should be able to figure out why and where you lost points or better yet attend a judging school. If you car does not win the award you are seeking you can write the chief judge and request the area or areas that you car lost points on that kept if from winning the award.. If you car won, they will not tell you. AACA has a very forgiving judging system as long as your car is original, it is the non original stuff that kills you in AACA.

I think people are getting way off track. Ron was talking about a vacuum tank system. They do not have a fuel pump at all they rely on engine vacuum to pull gas up from storage tank to a small tank on the firewall then lets gravity feed the carb. When you let them sit of run out of gas it take a lot of cranking (usually hand cranking) or the use of the prime cups if equipped to get it going. Any small vacuum leak in the system with stop it from working. Good system when working but they can be a real pain to diagnose and repair.

Is the cable to the brake being pulled? Does it have enought slack? What shape is your wheel bearing? Kingpins loose?

What brand is the clutch? I used modern (70's) mopar material in my 1916 Elgin's duel disk clutch. I had to file the cener a little large but no problems. Elgin used a Borg & Beck dry plate clutch like a a lot of cars of the era. If you want more info. let me know, I can supply it when I am at home.

Ron On my 1916 Elgin I hooked it up so it would run both ways. I found it I had the pressure over about 1.5 lb the carb would leak. I used a electric pump and a separate regulator. I ran everything though the Vacuum tank and the only way you could tell is I had to put a shut of on the tank vent to close it off when the pump was used. 2 days before I sold the car the pump went out; I just went to Autozone and bought the only 6 volt pump they had, with the regulator it worked. It seemed to me it was expensive, but now a days I think everything is expensive. I hid the pump and regulator under the car between the running board skirt and the frame. If you?re interested I can draw it out for you when I see you at Hershey. I'll look around I used to have a spare regulator.

After a long drive yesterday I parked in the garage. I pull the Bird out this morning and there was antifreeze all over the floor. Looks like my radiator took a dump. Looking it over it needs replaced. My question is this. I don't care if is it totally stock, but I want it to look stock. Looks like most places sell a four row replacement radiator for around $350. some sell that, plus a 4 row "High Efficiency" for $440. What is a "High Efficiency" Any body seen on of these? Is it worth the extra money? Do they look stock? Quick replies are appreciated as my 55 T-bird is down and it can't get up. Looks like I will be missing Indy next week, but I want to get it going as soon as possible.

After a long drive yesterday I parked in the garage. I pull the Bird out this morning and there was antifreeze all over the floor. Looks like my radiator took a dump. Looking it over it needs replaced. My question is this. I don't care if is it totally stock, but I want it to look stock. Looks like most places sell a four row replacement radiator for around $350. some sell that, plus a 4 row "High Efficiency" for $440. What is a "High Efficiency" Any body seen on of these? Is it worth the extra money? Do they look stock? Quick replies are appreciated as my 55 T-bird is down and it can't get up. Looks like I will be missing Indy next week, but I want to get it going as soon as possible.

Can you buy them on the web or only at the museum?

One other thing I might add. if the tank is going to be painted RE: motorcycle, antique car. Coat the tank inside. Paint the outside Then take tank sealer on a small brush and paint the edge line where the paint stops at the filler , this will help keep the paint from lifting.

I have used the Por-15 alcohol proof stuff on 3 different tanks without a problem. It was fast and easy.