Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About waxbgone

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/11/1943
  1. This is a beautiful silver 1990 convertible with a new black cloth top. It is in pristine condition inside and out. PRICE REDUCED TO $6,000 OBO !! Year:_1990 Coupe: ____ Conv:__X__ Mileage:_58000____ Considered Correct? Yes Location:_Fairview Park, OH <O:pVIN:1G4EC33C3LB907110________________________________ Title: Clear__X_ Salvage____ Other___ Any Accident History? No Asking Price: call me Exterior Color: silver Interior Color: silver/blue Paint Original? Yes Paint Condition? Good Belt & Bumper Molding Color: Silver Body Dents: No If Y where__________________ Body Rust: No
  2. FYI, the wire duct under the driver's seat on my convertible was filled with water. The splices were all destroyed. The car is garaged at all times, and has not seen rain in 10 years. It is stored in my garage all winter. There is NO drain in the floorboard and the carpet is vinyl-backed so no evaporation is possible. I don't know where the water came from, but, once there, it was trapped.
  3. Three of my four Reattas had the same problem. I anxiously await the answer. I always thought it was a sticky pressure regulator valve, and Seafoam is a (temporary) fix.
  4. I had exactly the same problem with 2 of my convertibles, door locks and power windows. The dealer fixed the first one, and I fixed the second this spring. Take out the driver's seat and pull up the carpet. You will see a plastic "duct" that is taped shut with plastic tape. Cut the tape and open the duct (mine was filled with water, maybe yours is too). Through this duct runs a 2" bundle of wires and there are several "junctions" where anywhere from 3 to 10 wires are joined together with compression fittings. You will find one (or more) of these junctions has deteriorated. Be very careful to l
  5. Lately I have noticed an odor which seems to be coning from the ventilation sysyem of my 90 convertible. It is very sweet-smelling, and smells almost like alcohol burning. It does not smell like an anti-freeze leak from the radiator. I don't see any leaks on the ground, on the engine, or feel any moisture on the carpets. I suspect that the heater core is leaking and the leakage is going out the drain for the A/C core. It is hard to tell if I am losing coolant since I only drive it occasionally, and there does not seem to be much (if any) loss. I hate to tear out the dashboard just to see if th
  6. I spent 6 months chasing this same kind of ghost. I don't know if your problem is the same as mine was, but you can read all about my symptoms, and the resolution of them in the thread entitled "Where is the 1991 Powertrain Control Module". After replacing virtually everything in the car, I took it to a really skillful Reatta guy, and it turned out to be, believe it or not, the PASSKEY control module.
  7. After 6 months of hassle with the stalling problem, and replacing a number of expensive parts, I finally gave up. The Starting system would not engage at all, and I have made all the "resistor modifications". The last time it ran (in June) it started, ran for about 300 yards, and stalled. After waiting for about 2 minutes, the "security" light would come on, the car would start and run for another 300 yards and quit again. I drove it home about 10 miles through town like this and parked it. After that the starter would not engage. After looking at it in the driveway for 6 weeks, I decided to t
  8. I can't recall whether the dash goes blank. What start switch are you referring to? The big one on the steering column?
  9. Well, I'm back at it again. When I went to pick up ny 1991 coupe from the window alignment guy a few weeks ago, it started to act up again. It would start, run for anywhere between a minute and 5 minutes, then abruptly die. If I put it in neutral or park, it would immediately start again, run for a while, and die again. after a few of these episodes, when it died, it would not crank until the "check Engine" light came on after a few seconds. I finally nursed it home and parked it for a couple of weeks (hot spell- too hot to work on the car). It has set a B334 code and a B552 code and an R025 c
  10. You were right the first time. When I unhooked the plugs to the PCM, wiggled it into position, and reattached the plugs, I bent over one of the pins. The ICM allowed it to start, and the PCM did not take over. When the dealer found it straightened the pin, it started up and ran fine. By the way, they checked the fuel pressure when I first brought it in. I think you may be right about the plug in the ICM being the original problem, but it is running pretty well now. Thanks again for all your help and advice.
  11. It cranks, it fires, the speed goes up and immediately dies. The whole process takes about 2 seconds. No, partial, or full throttle seems to make no difference.
  12. Hello again, and again, thanks for the advice. I felt the same way about the unresolved issue. I disconnected the ground from the battery and put the PCM back in its place (thanks to Padgett's recommendation about removing the rubber bumper!). I also removed the ignition module, cleaned the base to make better contact, cleaned the contacts in the plug and the module, and reassembled everything. I reconnected the battery and guess what. The car would start and immediately die. I then put the original ignition module back in the car and it acted exactly the same. Since it would not stay r
  13. Here's what I hope is the last installment of the saga. I tiik my baby to the dealer, and they checked the fuel pressure. It was OK. Based on that, and the rest of the parts I had replaced, they thought the problem was, as you guys suggested, the crank position sensor. While they were checking things out; however, the engine kept stalling at idle, like it has been ever since this problem began. They noticed that every time they tapped on the Ignition module (which was the first part I replaced), the car stalled. After stalling twice after this "tapping", further "tapping" would not make
  14. Thanks for the help and the tips. I plugged the PCM in and started the car, and the problem still exists, so I will leave the dashboard open and see what the dealer can diagnose. I have thrown several $100 parts at the problem including an ignition module, a Transmission position switch, and now a PCM, and I still get occasional intermittent stalling with a flash of the "Check engine" light, and the only error code is r025H, and I can't see how that would cause stalling. I had hoped to avoid a trip to the dealer, but it seems inevitable.
  • Create New...