Stan Leslie

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About Stan Leslie

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  1. Certainly the 10% ethanol doesn't help. It does lean the open loop slightly but probably the biggest problem is it raises the RVP (Reid Vapor Pressure) of the fuel. Higher RVP fuel evaporates at a lower temperature. Fuel RVP is regulated to a lower level in the summer, but the regulated value is before the ethanol is added.
  2. The return line was usually added to reduce "vapor lock" to an acceptable level. Some carbs had "heat shields" to reduce vapor lock, which was cheaper than adding a return line. Other internal carb changes, such as larger "bleeds and feeds" also helped. If cold weather was not a problem, then blocking off the heat crossover (on V engines) also worked.
  3. Can't comment on the smell but sitting for 20-40 minutes after running on a hot day will cause the injectors to boil the fuel. The injectors continue to heat up after shut off, peaking at around 20-40 minutes. When starting (or attempting to start) the hot injectiors vaporize the liquid fuel and the engine will run rough or stall until the cooler fuel cools the injectors. Usually will clear in 5-15 seconds, especially if you raise the RPM a bit with your foot. In the old days with carburetors this was called "vapor lock". Not to common on newer fuel injected cars.
  4. I believe the vacuum motor for the recirc door is visible on the drivers side floor, above pedals, to the left of console. Look for the orange hose. It may be easier to get that end of the hose off.
  5. Is the rear evaporator and front evaporator in series? could be the rear is grabbing all the cooler freon.
  6. A blown fuse would not repair itself when cooled. I seem to remember that some GM? cars used an oil pressure circuit as a redundant feed for the fuel pump. If the fuel pump fuse was blown the oil pressure circuit would feed the fuel pump as long as you had oil pressure. It could be that the cranking motor could not build adequate oil pressure when the oil was hot, but could if the oil cooled a bit. Just a thought. Did you figure out what the fuse was for that was blown?
  7. Since the rear is cold, it could just be the front temp door not closing off the heater.
  8. The one in Texas is a 91 Reatta with the optional white wheels. Also notice the flame red interior.
  9. Chuck - too bad YOU won't have a Reatta to watch from!!!
  10. It does seem to be repairing itself. Today it started reading less than full after 125 miles - droped to between 3/4 and 7/8. Refilled at a little below 3/4. Registered one square below full for a few minutes then went to full. Maybe thre or four more fillups will do it.
  11. I will keep refilling the tank at 1/2 to speed up the cycling of the sending unit and see if it might cure itself as Jim Finn suggested. I reset the trip odo. at refill as backup for now. No access panel here. Dropping the tank is a pain but not that bad. However, if it comes to that, I will likely replace the fuel pump while it's down. Due to the weight of the float arm, I tend to think it is the wirewound resistor (sending unit) that is coated with something on the upper half. Will park it full next time, as I usually have.
  12. I don't recall "blinking yellow segments" on my 91. Maybe that is unique to a 90. My gage displays the words "Low Fuel" in yellow, at around two bars. Experience tells me that is about 50 miles to empty. YMMV. I remember driving a Corvette some years back that displayed "Miles to Empty". I was curious what would happen when it reached 0 miles, so I continued driving and it started to display negative miles. At around "-15 Miles to Empty", I filled it up. Not sure where it actually would have run out. Running an electric pump dry is not the best thing, so I did not pursue further.
  13. I will assume that repeated cycling is what may fix it, therefore maybe I will start refilling at 1/2 tank to speed up the process.
  14. Recently took Reatta out of storage for summer. Had parked car last fall with about 5/8 full tank with Sta-bil added. Decided to run tank down to low fuel before refilling to burn off most of the old fuel. After refilling, gage read about 3/4. Within a few minutes it read full. Stayed on full for about 140 miles, then dropped down to about 3/4, then down to about 1/2 in next 30-40 miles. Seems to be working normally below 3/4. I refilled and observed about the same (currently at 1/2). I assume corrosion is the culprit. Happen to talk to a 90 Reatta owner last week at MIS and he said his was permanently stuck on Full. Just curious, since I assume this in not an uncommon problem. Is the corrosion/sticking an issue with the float and float arm or is it an issue with only the sending unit rheostat being corroded? Any body have or had similar problem? I assume only real solution is dropping the tank.