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Terry Bond

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Everything posted by Terry Bond

  1. Photo of the back needed to answer your question. Terry
  2. I also thought it was incorrectly dated and spent considerable time point out some odd things about it to a friend. For example, there was a 1912 dashboard clearly there. As I began teaching a mini CJE class, I noticed the sign behind it (that people had been standing in front of). It explains the car is a 1912 and it's had a 1914 body put on it later by the original owner. Terry
  3. How about posting a photo of the back. It'll quickly determine if it's a modern item or not. Terry
  4. That fake Buick fob in Chrome that's been attached to an old ribbon continues to get listed on evil bay. Although the price has dropped over time, it's still no less a modern reproduction worth only a couple of bucks. Note the back of it has a simple cross-hatch pattern. Terry
  5. Motometer collectors are about as crazy of some spark plug collectors I know of.😉
  6. George, can appreciate you wanting to play it safe but those ads exist in the public domain and are availabe in multiple sources. Searching the Internet will show many of them readily available. Chances are whoever published that book 20 years ago is no longer still in business. While his book is copyright, it still contains a lot that isnt. If anyone can find additional ads to post here it would be interesting to see them. Google can help. Terry
  7. Daimler and Benz were advertising as early as 1896. Terry
  8. Lots of things to consider on signs besides price. And, it's sometimes a moving target as the fakers learn from their mistakes and perfect their craft. Porcelain signs have been particularly troublesome, most likely due to the price they bring at auction and well-known specialty swap meets. I look for things like: Quality of lettering and lines. Edges should be straight and crisp, Curved lettering should also be clean and without jagged edges. I've seen some terrible fakes that looks like someone painted them while on a roller-coaster! Shelving has already been mentioned. That's the distinct layering of the different porcelain colors that can easily be felt or seen when holding the sign in the right position with light reflecting off of it. The layers between colors should be distinct, I've observed the older the sign is, the heavier the shelving probably is. Looking at edge decoration and lettering should reveal a degree of shelving. Coloring - especially cobalt blues. They should be very dark with deep gloss. Placement of mounting holes/grommets. When compared with originals, mounting holes will be off, sometimes considerably. Of course you need to study known originals for comparison. I have a "collection" of known original signs saved in a gallery on my phone. These handy pictures show locations of mounting holes, can sometimes be a reference to color, and will show other details that can be quickly compared with a sign you are considering for purchase. Back-side and weight of the sign are also important. Early signs were made on sheet-iron and heavy steel. Modern repops will be on much lighter metal. Backs will usually be enameled like the front, sometimes in black, but always showing plenty of marks created during production. I have some early multi-colored signs that have large drips of every color used on the front. It's as if the "painter" just dripped a bit of everything onto the back around the edges. I stay away from signs with the backs colored in flat black with smooth but textured surface. It's my feeling these are mostly newer fantasy or reproduction items. In an auction or flea market watch the price. I've seen highly suspect signs priced far below what they might bring in a good auction - just low enough to make you think you're getting a bargain, but still expensive (by my definition). I've seen signs that "should" be worth a couple thousand bucks priced at $500-700. "It's too good to be true" is often a red flag for me. Fake aging. Look carefully and think about how and why there are chips, holes, or damage. It it logical or did some crafty pirate take a hammer to it to look old. Red rust is to me a big warning sign (no pun intended). Old rust is a darker color, sometimes even black depending on the base metal. Red rust is from yesterday's rain. I've not bought a sign in quite some time. Too chancy these days unless buying from a reputable source. At today's prices I'm not taking any chances unless I'm sure. Just because I want it to be right, isn't enough justification for me to dump all my Hershey money in one spot on a single item. Too much other great stuff out there. There are a lot of things that are in my "check-list" and I must admit, there may be exceptions to any of my rules. I am sure I've missed some goodies over the years because I'm too cautious. If I find something good I'll post so you can critique my choice. Meantime, a few that illustrate some of the things I mention above. All of these signs were acquired years ago when the "gettin-was-good." I pulled most off of old garages and buildings. A few were plugging holes in farmers fences. It was quite an adventure getting that Essolube sign off the side of a barn. Had to put a 16 foot ladder on top of a VW to reach it. The Mobile oil bottle came from the front of a metal oil cabinet that was found in Scotland in an old garage. I removed a total of four porcelain signs from that cabinet. Sadly however, the little glass globe usually found on top of those cabinets was broken. All the signs and the cabinet had been painted over with many layers of paint. I love the stories that go with them. Much better than "bought it at an auction." Terry
  9. I'll bet the major suppliers for restoration parts are struggling to get hold of things. We've tried to get some MG parts and anything made in China (much of it is these days) is not available. Makes me wonder if there will ever be a recovery for that part of the business. I'm usually optimistic, but in this case, am concerned that some of the manufacturers might see it as too difficult or unprofitable to continue making unique stuff with only small demand. Restoring a car may no longer be just a dial the 800 number, as many of our early car enthusiasts already understand. Even the Model T folks are finding some things, especially tires and tubes, difficult to get. Terry
  10. It's indeed a pleasure to meet forum folks in person. I've enjoyed meeting many at some of the AACA meets we attend. Which reminds me (and a little OT here), is there any chance of remaking some of the DF badges that were done many years ago? Terry
  11. Not actually leather, but the wood floorboards did come from a forest in Northern Michigan. Terry
  12. You can date it by checking the serial number. https://www.fiddlebase.com/german-machines/opel/dating-opel/ Don't know anyone who collects Opel sewing machines, but perhaps someone who likes Opel cars might be interested. Chances are however, you'll get more interest if you advertise it to sewing machine collectors. If you wander around the internet you might be able to find others for sale to compare and determine what price range might work for you. Terry
  13. Great bike and I'm very familiar with them having lived for several years in Scotland. Antique motorcycles have long been popular there. The Rudge is similar to my 1912 Triumph in many ways - single cylinder, 499 CC 3 1/2 Hp. Even the overall appearance is similar since both were made in Coventry. My triumph however does not have a transmission. It's one of the last to run with a simple declutching rear hub. In theory a nice idea, but in actual use certainly not as usable as the later 3 speed Sturmey Archer, or the variable speed transmission on the Rudge. Getting off target here - plugs - My Triumph used a Bosch magneto with a plug of the same brand. I am pretty sure your Rudge would have used a mica insulator KLG or Lodge plug. Terry
  14. 1913 T to be more specific - but, it's been retrofitted with some updates. The electric head and cowl lamps are aftermarket replacements and the hood has been replaced with one from a 1915 or 1916. Prior to then they did not have louvers. Perhaps the hood was changed to enhance cooling. Can't see the horn clearly but it could be an aftermarket addition as well. The 1913 body is distinctive in a couple of easy to spot ways. First, the doors open all the way down to the splash aprons. Even more revealing is the windshield. In 1913 it folded forwards like the one in the photo. In 1914 and later, it folded back. The photo could certainly have been taken in 1916. Terry
  15. What was the motorcycle you had? A lot of plug manufacturers offered specialty motorcycle plugs. Most were 18mm thread and needed to be short to fit into tight spaces. Here is a photo of one of my favorites - the Monarch White Cap Motorcycle plug made by Benfords. Also very popular among motorcyclists was the Anderson plug. It featured a glass core so you could actually see it firing. There are many others in my collection including a variety of Indian and Hedstrom plugs from the early Indian motorcycles, as well as special plugs made for Harley-Davidson and others. Terry
  16. For something as important as the spark plug, not much history has ever been recorded and published. Many collectors like myself are fascinated with automobile history, especiall the spark plugs. Starting like most collectors by trying to build a big collection of all different names (thousands of them) I've tried to collect the oldest and most interesting. Digging up the stories behind them has been interesting and a challenge though. Will post a few more pics later. Terry
  17. 2nd look thru the video and your right, looks like everything is in place. Another pic shows the ft wishbone bolted up to the pan, so it's probably a runable vehicle. Lot's of good T parts in that building. Terry
  18. one of the overhead shots clearly shows daylight under the firewall. No idea why the engine may have been removed but if work on the transmission is necessary it's all gotta come out. I'm sure Jim can confirm. Terry
  19. Sounds like an opportunity to make what you need and a few extras to sell. 3D printing can be your friend on the project if you have a good original to work from. Terry
  20. If you watch the video you'll see the engine is out of the roadster pickup. Terry
  21. Recent acquisition - another Royal Doulton item. These vase are large - 9 5/8" tall. They are among only a few pieces in the Doulton Motorist series that have two different images on them - one on each side. Images on this one are not often seen on these vases. There are 9 different images in this series, all hand colored, that are seen on a variety of different items. Six of the known scenes are used on plates in different sizes. They were produced from 1905 when the design was first registered, until 1928 when they were discontinued. There are quite a few automobilia collectors chasing these wonderful items, and I've wanted a vase for many years. They seem to suffer commonly from crazing in the glaze, and as you can imagine, damage to those large handles. For that reason, I've passed on a few examples over the years. Just as I began to wonder if I'd ever find one that was above average in condition, I had the chance to buy this one - and it is nearly perfect! All good things in time I guess. Terry
  22. In about 1975 I was stationed in Scotland (USN) and used to regularly visit a very old toy shop in a small village near where we lived. I bought mainly the Models of Yesteryear, and had quite a few. Always bought the ones that just came out. One day I asked if there were any older ones stashed in back. I was allowed into the "stock room" and had a time picking up every one of the first series, all new in the box of course. Some of them I could have bought multiples of, but why would I ever need more than one? I continued to add to them until they began coming out with fat modern looking tires on them, then lost interest. Still have my collection but have never added to it. There were others that had a greater level of detail like Rio and Solido, so I began picking up those that interested me. I have them displayed in a wall mounted cabinet. When the cabinet was filled, that was the end of my collecting them and I moved on to other automobilia (spark plugs, etc). Terry
  23. Reminds me of the times spent cruising Gratiot Ave in Detroit in 1966. Thanks for posting. Terry
  24. Interesting it's described as a "rust free" car. Wonder what all that brown stuff is on the front bumper and rad shell? Must have followed the septic tank truck too close! Terry
  25. Just got home, have not downloaded anything yet. I was pretty busy with judging but managed to get a few I'll try ad post later. I'm sure there are others who can add some-sure saw lots of people taking photos. Terry
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