Steve Hammatt

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Everything posted by Steve Hammatt

  1. Robert, good points but I'm wondering where you came up with 48' for a two car hauler. Everything is dependent upon what two cars he's planning on, but I've often hauled two small cars (even two Model Ts) in my 24' enclosed trailer (a tight fit, but it can be done) and my 24' trailer has a set of cabinets in the front that takes up some space. My total net available interior length is 22' 2". I run a Dodge RAM 2500HD with a Cummins diesel. I haul mostly horseless carriages and my rear door opening is 90" (can't fit everything but it does fit most!). Steve
  2. Time to start planning for transportation needs from Seattle area to Hershey or in-between SoCal and Hershey, and similar routes returning to PacNW from Hershey. I'll have room for one or two small car(s) between SoCal eastward to Ohio. Also have room for vehicle(s) from SoCal northward to PacNW. Most other segments I can haul wheels, transmissions, etc. Give me a call at 360-661-6060 and we'll see if we can help get your parts and/or vehicles moved.
  3. Face glass in very good condition, instrument face is dirty, but appears to only need a good cleaning. The outer rim needs heavy cleaning and depending upon your personal requirements, could be re-plated for best appearance. $75 plus shipping. Interesting face, instead of usual numbers with + and - side, it's simply a "GO - NO GO" type application with the red indicating needle. Call me if you have a question. Thanks. Steve 360-661-6060.
  4. Need Gray & Davis Lighting Switch for 1914 Overland. Maybe just the name plate or knob; a parts switch will always be helpful. Could also use a G&D voltage regulator. Ooops, almost forgot: Need a Gray & Davis floor mounted starter switch, I have most everything else to electrify our touring car. Super thanks. Steve
  5. Hi You may want to check this site out: https://www.fjmtruckcenter.com/default.asp?page=xInventoryDetail&id=3975268&p=2&s=Year&d=D&vt=cargo trailer&fr=xrentalinventory Trailer looks like it could handle your Dodge with no problems. Steve
  6. I run a BB-1 on my Overland. Dove under the hood and took lots of measurements as it was going to be a tight fit if I wanted to add a filter. The went to the K&N filter site and custom designed my filter and it works perfectly! Not period correct, but it seems to be doing the job!
  7. "I carry a lightweight plastic ramp to raise a good tire so that the other tire on the same side can be changed (or the brakes adjusted) without jacking the rig." Marty...I also carry a plastic ramp (bright yellow color) that's good for something like 15k pounds and works wonderfully. I had a passenger side flat tire driving by myself while returning from Hershey (via Long Beach, CA) and it was evening traffic in downtown Oakland and I was jammed up against the side rail. I had the trailer up and ready to change literally within minutes. The Freeway Ranger (paid to help with troubled cars on the freeway) happened to stop within 5 minutes. He said he wasn't allowed to lift a loaded trailer.....but since everything was all done, he took out his power impact wrench and another 5 minutes I was on my way. This was the second time I'd used these ramps. I've just purchased one for my good friend in Australia. The manufacturer now has a new item, a wall mounted sleeve to store the ramp on your inside trailer wall.
  8. Leaving NW corner of Washington State for SoCal on April 9th and returning one week later. Will be attending Bakersfield Swap Meet and continuing to points south. RAM diesel rig pulling 24' enclosed trailer and will be positioned on the field in Spaces D18-21 at Bakersfield. Room for most everything except rolling chassis on the south bound trip, complete vehicles can be transported on the north bound return trip. Call me to discuss 360-661-6060. Super thanks. Steve
  9. I'd go one better, specifically at Chickasha....... Plan to arrive Thursday early afternoon in order to "work the parking lot" before the vendors are allowed onto the fairground field. You'll have a chance, especially if you're looking for autos or the rusty bits that are typically loaded in on large open trailers! The indoor vendor space vendors tend to be the more specialist type vendors, specializing in certain products and/or services. Outdoor vendors tend to be more along the line of complete cars or large parts thereof, you know.....rust bits and other interesting items. Be assured, these are only my observations and are complete generalities. Either way, get there Thursday or Friday, stay for Saturday to enjoy the balance of the meet and to get those last minute deals from a vendor packing up and headed for home. I know that I always stay until noon before leaving my vendor space, not all vendors do this. As a buyer, remember, the best deals can often be gotten at the last minute! Enjoy Chickasha......many improvements have been made over the past few years. I'm sure additional improvements will be made. One improvement that I've noticed for this year is a start at re-doing the web page http://pwsm.com/ Unfortunately the update is not complete yet (3 weeks prior to the 2019 Swap Meet), hopefully the update will get done in time and it can contain links to aid attendees find local eateries, services and other travel assistance for persons attending in the next couple of weeks. Come to Chickasha, enjoy the swap meet, enjoy the people and best of luck in finding those special parts that you've been looking for!
  10. Thank Larry for your suggestions. I'll be returning again to Chickasha to show our Leather License Plates. Our vendor space is in the North Bldg Spaces NJ 8-9. Perfect location: Air conditioning and heated, near the restrooms and practically next to the food vendor. What more to ask for! Also, I believe the Buick guy's will have their gathering at my booth space on Friday at 10am? We'll be showing leather license plates including the new "black on white ground" leather plate alongside our more normal aluminum numbers on the thick black leather. Stop by and say hello! We'll be there Friday at 8am and we'll stick around until noon on Saturday. Steve Hammatt 360-661-6060 cell Here's a photo of an original "black on white ground" plate:
  11. Bill Nice looking building. I'm sure it will work well for you. Yesterday I was doing some shopping for the wife (at Costco) and that gave me a chance to look at some storage racks they have on sale. HOWEVER, I did notice that the concrete finish of this Costco (and others I've been in) is fantastic. My suggestion is to find out who the builder or project coordinator for Costco and get the details. At least it will give you more information, which is always a good thing!
  12. We've dealt with a number of magneto repairs, but by far our choice is Bud Davis 21820 Jordon Rd Arlington WA 98223 425-422-9094 The first time I was in Bud's shop for some help with my DU-4, I looked over at the wall of "exchange" magnetos and saw maybe 3 or 4 Du-4s in stock. That's a good feeling. Bud's been doing mags for years, I believe it's more a passion for him rather than a business. Best of luck to you.
  13. Looking to purchase Gray & Davis Type K starter circa 1914 to fit Overland Model 79 and possibly other cars of similar vintage. Also can use Gray & Davis Type C-1 generator (dynamo), ammeter gauge, lighting switch and any other electrical system parts (other than lamps). Possible trade for alternative Gray & Davis electrical items.
  14. Marty, I'll be driving thru Decatur IL on the weekend before Hershey. Unfortunately not Decatur MI. If you could get it down to Fort Wayne or Toledo areas, I can bring the items on from there.
  15. Pending pick up at Hershey, this generator has found a new home. Thanks everybody.
  16. Pending pick-up at Hershey, it appears that this generator has found a new home.
  17. I have acquired an early Gray & Davis Type G1 Generator (Dynamo). After diligently looking up old reference books, I have discovered that the "Type G-1" spec's list 6-1/2 V, 9 Amperes and 1000 RPM. It took a bit of time, but apparently this generator (dynamo) was originally fitted to the 1913-1914 Chalmers, Models 17, 18 and 19. My unit appears complete, but certainly needs cleaning and internal checking with a complete rebuild probably required. It turns over quite easily, but still requires slightly more effort than ideal. It's quite dirty and cob-webby. Also, as can be seen in the photos, one of the four mounting feet needs some welding/fabrication. Offered at USD$250, plus shipping or better yet, stop by my vending space at Hershey (I'll only bring it if somebody wants it right away) at RED FIELD RWG 30-31, nr. Lamp Post #21. Steve Hammatt 2110 S 19th ST Mount Vernon WA 98274 USA 360-661-6060 (cell & text) http://www.leatherplates.com
  18. I have acquired an early Gray & Davis Type G1 Generator (Dynamo). After diligently looking up old reference books, I have discovered that the "Type G-1" spec's list 6-1/2 V, 9 Amperes and 1000 RPM. It took a bit of time, but apparently this generator (dynamo) was only originally fitted to the 1913-1914 Chalmers, Models 17, 18 and 19. My unit appears complete, but certainly needs cleaning and internal checking with a complete rebuild probably required. It turns over qjuite easily, but still requires slightly more effort than ideal. It's quite dirty and cob-webby. Also, as can be seen in the photos, one of the four mounting feet needs some welding/fabrication. Since I do not own a Chalmers, I'd like this to go to a Chalmers parts accumulator (aka "hoarder") or better yet, an owner of a Model 17, 18 or 19. Hopefully it can be of immediate use or kept as a back-up unit. Offered at USD$250, plus shipping or better yet, stop by my vending space at Hershey (I'll only bring it if somebody wants it right away) at RED FIELD RWG 30-31, nr. Lamp Post #21. Steve Hammatt 2110 S 19th ST Mount Vernon WA 98274 USA 360-661-6060 (cell & text) http://www.leatherplates.com
  19. For those interested, I have found the automobile that used the Gray & Davis Type G generator: 1913-1914 Chalmers, Models 17, 18 and 19. My unit appears complete, but needing rebuilding. It turns over by hand (somewhat stiffly, but needs lots of cleaning). It also needs minor welding repair to one of the four feet. Offers considered. Thanks. Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
  20. I have an early Gray & Davis Type G Generator (Dynamo) that, unfortunately, I have been unable to find the application (year and make) that used this generator. Anybody have an idea as to which marque used this generator? The only spec's I've found so far show a "Type G-1" while the nameplate on the generator shows it as "Type G". The "Type G-1" spec's list 6-1/2V, 9Amperes and 1000 RPM. So, all of this begs two questions: 1. are there substantial differences between the Type G the Type G-1? 2. which brand(s) of automobile(s) specified the use of the Gray & Davis Type G generator? Super thanks everyone.......I appreciate any assistance offered. Steve
  21. Jeff Thanks for your reply. I just pulled my AQ and took a look, unfortunately not much in the way of details regarding which units were supplied by Gray & Davis to Peerless. I also pulled two more AQs and still no details. I wish someone would make a usable indes for the last 10 years (Vol 41:1 thru Vol 51:1) of Automobile Quarterlies. It appears that my problem is that I have a Gray & Davis Type G Starter and I need a G&D Type K (awaiting verification on the correct Type) for my 1914 Overland 79. I'm wonder what G&D two piece starter type (model) was used in the Peerless application?
  22. Hi I've run across a Gray-Davis electric starter Type G. I'm thinking that it may have been used on a 1914 +/- Peerless. Would this make any sense?
  23. If an Overland, it's certainly not a 1914. Immediately I noticed that the seemingly large, flat wooden firewall is too early for a '14 Overland. Also, the rear fender line at the rear portion is totally unlike my 1914 Overland 79T. I'm guess, may a 1912 Overland?
  24. Al The background on the oil seepage on the '14 Overland (plus similar Overland years) engines probably belongs in a different section, other than the For Sale group....so maybe soon I'll gather my memories, check some facts and do a write up about my experiences. However, I did mean to mention a couple of other changes I made as backup to the changes in seat i.d. of the fuel inlet valve. I found a similar sized needle, but with a Viton tip, and exchanged it for the original all brass needle. The new needle had a groove around the blunt end, near the float "flapper". I found a tiny SS spring designed to snap onto the blunt end of the needle (it snapped into the groove mentioned earlier) and then the other end wrapped loosely around the float flapper. When the float dropped, the flapper pulled the needle open and fuel flowed. I considered this my backup method and not the primary means of fuel control. I was tired of occasionally having to back up a hill! Someday, when I pull the carb for cleaning I'll try to remember to photograph my changes. Steve