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Jeff Hansen

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Everything posted by Jeff Hansen

  1. Cadillacs of this era did not have VIN tags as we know them today. You'll want to title the car by the seven digit number that is stamped into the frame. For 1947, this number is stamped into the top of the frame rail between the battery and the starter. You may need to wire brush the area if there is rust. I am at work currently, but later tonight I can post what the first three numbers should be so you at least have an idea of what you are looking for. Once you find the number on the frame, check the engine to see if it has the same number stamped into it. That number should be located on a machined area directly above the water pump. If the numbers match, you likely have the original engine. If the numbers differ or the engine number is located in a different place, it is a replacement engine. HTH, Jeff
  2. No flywheel repair and only a rebuild on the starter using NOS Delco brushes I acquired at some point. The rebuild was straightforward. Just make sure when you put everything back together that all starter connections are tight, bright, shiny metal on metal to avoid any slow or hot start issues. Also be sure to use the proper size battery cables. For added grounding, I run an additional ground connection using the same size battery cable from the starter straight to the frame. With these steps, I've never had a starting issue - hot or cold. Keep us posted! Jeff
  3. Engine # 3380469 is from a '42 Cadillac series 75. If this engine number, which should be located on a machined boss directly above the water pump, matches the number found on the top of the frame rail between the starter and the battery, than that is likely the original engine to the car. I, too, have a '42 Cadillac 75. Should you have any additional questions, please shoot me an email. Jeff
  4. Joe, Try asking your question on the Cadillac-LaSalle Club's Message Forum. Be sure to provide the upholstery code from your car's body tag so it can be decoded for you. You don't have to be a member of the Cadillac-LaSalle Club to use their forum. The URL is: http://www.cadillaclasalleclub.org/cgi-bin/user/forum.cgi Hope this helps. Jeff
  5. I know this type of underseat heater was used in 1942 - 1947 Cadillacs and the 1948 and 1949 series 75 Cadillacs. Jeff
  6. Thanks again to everyone for your comments and suggestions. I do appreciate them! The fact that <span style="font-weight: bold">FACTORY</span> documentation is required (as opposed to magazine articles or similar) is <span style="font-weight: bold">CRYSTAL CLEAR</span>. I am looking forward to the judging experience. Kind regards, Jeff
  7. Thanks 1937hd45, Ron, and ex98thdrill! I appreciate your advice and will look into having color copies made. Now, to find a spot in the car to stash the originals.... Thanks again. Jeff
  8. I have been an AACA member for a number of years and if all goes according to plan, I will be showing my very first vehicle soon. I have read the current judging manual and attended judging schools in the past but don't recall having seen this question come up. My question is on documentation. I know that it is the owner's responsibility to provide FACTORY documentation of his/her vehicle when questions arise. Must ORIGINAL factory documentation be provided or will reproductions or photocopies of the ORIGINAL factory documentation be satisfactory? My concern is having valuable original literature out in public. Sorry if this seems like a silly question, but I don't want to screw up my first attempt at showing a car, but I also don't want to put valuable literature at risk. How do others handle this situation? Any insight or advice is appreciated! Thanks, Jeff
  9. Here is a link to a small amount of info on the Boyertown Auto Body Works: http://www.coachbuilt.com/bui/b/boyertown/boyertown.htm Hope this is helpful! Jeff
  10. Got another one for MOPAR: Made Of Parts Already Rusted. Jeff
  11. In response to the original question about the S&S Hearse, the particular car in the photo and on the website mentioned is built on a 1942 Cadillac series 75 commercial chassis. Anything 1942 is rare, but it would be interesting to know the Cadillac serial number of that car. The last thing Cadillac did prior to stopping civilian production in February 1942 was to construct 1500 commercial chassis. That could be one of them. FWIW... Jeff
  12. Hello Jack, I agree with Matt that you are likely going to have to make your own patch panels unless you can locate a good parts car. You didn't mention if your coupe is a series 61 or series 62. That will make a difference as the bodies for the two series were different. The '42 series 61 coupe shares its body shell with 1946 and 1947 series 61 coupes. The '42 series 62 coupe shares its body shell with 1946 and 1947 series 62 coupes. I can't recall if there is backward compatibility into 1941 with the basic body shell - there possibly is. You may also want to post a message on the Cadillac-LaSalle Club's Message Forum to see if anybody has such a parts car or has been down this road with the same car. 1942 Cadillacs are rare cars (heck, anything 1942 is rare!). You'll have a beauty when she's done. Hope this helps. Jeff 1942 Cadillac series 7533
  13. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have the Cadillac CD with the specs and sales info on it. It is helpful. </div></div> What Cadillac CD are you referring to? Have you gotten a copy of your car's build sheet from GM? If not, it is worth the money. You'll get a copy of the original build sheet indicating the as-built configuration of your car when it left the factory. This includes the installed options, serial and component numbers, etc. GM will also include copies of any factory literature they have related to the year of the vehicle. More information on getting this information is available at http://www.cadillaclasalleclub.org/authenticate.shtml Again, I hope this helpful and not redundant. Jeff
  14. Nope. The look of the plate never changes. We get nifty little stickers to put on the tags that indicates their expiration date.
  15. The Demco manufactured plates were made of aluminum or some type of aluminum alloy - they are extremely light. I have yet to closely examine one of the Waldale manufactured plates, but I have no reason to doubt their composition is any different. The plates from each manufacturer are easy to distinguish as the font used to print the numbers is different between the two. In fact, there was such an uproar in Delaware about the font used on the initial Waldale plates, Waldale replaced it with a second font that is similar to the font used by Demco but is still different. We're funny about our license plates here in Delaware. Jeff
  16. Jaxops, Have you checked the Cadillac Database (http://www.car-nection.com/yann/) or contacted its curator, Yann Saunders (yannsaunders@yahoo.com)? Another place to try would be the GM Heritage Center (formerly known as "Cadillac Historical Services"). Their address is: GM Heritage Center Attn: Cadillac Archives 6400 Center Drive Sterling Heights, MI 48312-2609 It's my understanding that window stickers as we know them today did not come into being until the late 50s, but I could be wrong on this. Hope this is helpful, Jeff Hansen
  17. I forget the name of the place, but it is about 8 miles east of Lenoir, NC. Lenoir is about an hour north of Charlotte. I want to say the name is "Hawk Hill" or "Hawk's Hill" but I'm not sure that is accurate. Bill Edmunds, Hornets Nest Region AACA member and current president of the Cadillac-LaSalle Club is a resident there. I'm sure he'd be happy to tell you about the place. His email is: President@cadillaclasalleclub.org Hope this is helpful. Jeff
  18. Ken, Consider joining the marque club for your car. They will be a wealth of knowledge of who (and who not) to get parts from. The Cadillac LaSalle Club's website is at http://www.cadillaclasalleclub.org . They also have a Message Board. Hope this helps, Jeff
  19. I cannot stress enough the importance of making sure ALL of the electrical grounds in the starting circuit are tight, clean, and free of all paint and rust. THIS IS CRUCIAL! <P>One spot that is often overlooked is the metal to metal connection between the starter solenoid and the starter housing. Make sure this area is clean and paint free.<P>Also, don't forget the metal to metal connection where the starter attaches to the engine block or bellhousing. Make sure your engine ground straps are intact and connections are clean.<P>Anything you can do to aid the current flow is going to help you.<P>I recently helped a friend with the exact same problem on his 1947 Cadillac convertible. We went through the starter, the solenoid, and all of the connections. The starter now spins faster than ever -- hot or cold -- with no speed degradation when hot.<P>Good luck!<BR>Jeff Hansen<p>[ 06-27-2002: Message edited by: Jeff Hansen ]
  20. DNS....it always takes several days for DNS changes to propogate throughout the web. I clicked on the West Texas link this morning and got a DNS error. Give it a few days and all will be well! <P>Jeff
  21. Tuesday started out to be so promising...my oldest son's 7th birthday! A happy occasion that I took the day off for so that I could take him to school and share in his joy. He opened his presents at the breakfast table and smiles were all around.<P>Once he was deposited safely in his classroom and I was back in my car did I learn of the tragedies unfolding.<P>My son will never forget his 7th birthday -- and for all of the wrong reasons.<P>I am not a religious person, but I fear for the children. Not just those in the United States, but all over the world. Especially in areas where hate is handed down from generation to generation.<P>Thanks for letting me write this. I've been meaning to get it off of my chest.<P>Jeff
  22. Bill,<P>I share in your joy, as I'm in the middle of the same process with my '42 Caddy limo. The car came home from the body shop this past Saturday with a fresh coat of black paint and looking spectacular. Sunday, we got it running for the first time in a good 12 years.<P>I also like the progress reports you've done on your web page. I'd do the same if I had the time!<P>Keep us all posted!<BR>Jeff
  23. Anders,<P>There were 99 1959 Eldorado Broughams made. <P>For much more information on these cars, please check out the *EXTENSIVE* Eldorado Brougham section of the Cadillac Database at <a href="http://www.car-nection.com/yann/dbas_txt/Brg_chap.htm">http://www.car-nection.com/yann/dbas_txt/Brg_chap.htm</a><P>Thanks,<BR>Jeff
  24. Bry,<P>I'd suggest dropping by the Cadillac LaSalle Club's website and posting your questions on our message board as well as here. We also have several 1960 Cadillac technicians listed on the site. They'd be good resources to bounce questions off of.<P>Hope this helps you out!<P>Jeff Hansen<BR>CLC Webmaster and AACA member
  25. A picture of a 1906 Queen can be found at <a href="http://www.guildautomotive.on.ca/1906_Queen.html">http://www.guildautomotive.on.ca/1906_Queen.html</a>. Not the greatest picture, so I'm not sure it'll help.<P>Jeff
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