michel88

My personal favorites: The twenties: 1929, beautiful The thirties: 1938, The grille was great The forties: 1940, but I think all the 40's were great The fifties: 1957, some don't like it but I loved the look The sixties: 1961, very clean design The seventies: 1970, liked the grille and overall look The eighties: 1983, Riviera convertible

I couldn't agree more!

It looks like a Mercedes about a 58-63. Since it has a dial for the car phone, it is probably from that era.

I would not use the flush on your engine. It may dislodge dirt and sludge into the bearings and do more harm than good. Instead you could change the oil every 100 miles or so and do it when you have just driven the car at least 20 miles and the oil is very hot. Be careful of the hot oil, it could burn you! Four or oil changes should do it. Just my opinion.

I had a great time at Hershey this year. I saw a lot of friends and had some great conversations with others I just met in the flea market. The weather was great! It's the best car show in the world!

I have had very good experiences using POR 15, usually on floors and frames. I painted POR 15 on a rusty cast iron door to my wood storage box for my fire place (outside the house). I did a quick wire brushing and nothing else. It has held up for 15 years with no rust showing.

I would like to buy a 1940 Buick Roadmaster radiator. I would consider a good radiator, one that needs recoring, or just the top and bottom tanks. The part number is: 3113847 and is on the top tank. The core should be 3" thick. Thanks! If you have one but don't want to ship it, I will be at the Hershey Fall Show Thursday, Friday and Saturday (Oct 9,10,11)and I could meet you there to pick it up.

That bumper sticker is all too true. I have had my 89 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup for about fifteen years and I have been involved in quite a few moves!

If I only went to one car show a year it would be Hershey. I have gone every year since 1976 except about 3 of 4 years ago when it rained through the whole show. I am lucky that I live fairly close so gas is no problem. Hershey is the class act of old car shows. If you have never been there I urge you to go, it will be worth it!

Thanks for the info Ed. I have had the car almost 20 years and when I first got it the power seat worked and I set it where I like it. I never tried to move it again until a few days ago when I wanted to take the seat out. I will try cleaning things up!

I received the upholstory kits for the two front bucket seats as well as new seat buns from Clarks and the quality and color match is great. When I went to remove the seats the passenger side came out quite easily. It is easier to move the seat all the way forward to access the bolts. When it came to the driver side, which is a power seat, I found the seat would not move so I could not move it forward. The electric motor runs but the seat stays put. With a lot of difficulty I was able to remove the seat. Can anyone tell me what could be wrong and if parts are available to repair it?

Hi Jim, I just looked at the car and it has a long bolt to mount the spare on the raised shelf under the package tray. I am missing the hardware to mount the tire there and it is sitting on the floor with a cover on it. I looked underneath and I don't see any hold down loop. The remote control mirror on the drivers door is mounted very close to the front of the door, so you are looking through the vent window when you look at it. My car also has a power drivers seat and power antenna.

Ed, thanks a lot for the information from the data plate. The Riv does have the options called out on the data plate. It has the 140 mph speedometer with the aluminum veneer, and the spare is mounted under the package tray. I will post some pictures of the car, and the seats with the new upholstory installed.

I contacted Clarks Corvair and have received the upholstory sample and it looks like a good match. I am going to order Monday, both front bucket seats upholstory and new seat buns. Can anyone decode the data plate for me. I posted a picture of it in my last post. Thanks!

Thanks Jim, here is a picture of the data plate. I hope it is legible enough. I've had my 63 Riv for almost 20 years and I have always thought it would be interesting to decode the data plate.

Thanks Don, I do see 716 on the firewall data plate. It is a vinyl material. I will follow your advice and have them send me free samples.

I want to order new front seat upholstory from Clarks Corvair for my 63 Riviera and I need some help. I need to know what color to order. Is it shown on the data plate on the firewall? The upholstory is a medium blue vinyl. There is a series of codes on the bottom row of the data plate: CC 57 16 N2 Z4. Does this specify what color the interior is? Has anyone replaced their upholstory with the Clarks kits? Are you satisfied with them? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Voted, very nice Buick!

I like the 58 Buicks as an icon of the fifties. Having one with a 3 speed manual trans is very cool!

Frank, thanks for letting me know. This is mystery how my radiator is only 2 1/2" thick instead of 3". My top tank has the right part number maybe somebody damaged the bottom tank and adapted a thinner bottom tank and core?

Thanks for your ideas Mark, I will check out your sugestions. The spark advance sounds promising. Right now I have the thermostat out which I don't like to do. It seemed to make it run a little cooler but I don't usually take them out because the cooling system should function fine with the thermostat in and the long warm up puts wear on the engine. My main question is: why does my radiator have only a 2 1/2' thick bottom tank and core? My friend has small series radiator that has a 2" thick core and a large series with a 3" core. Did the early 40 large series have only a 2 1/2" core? I was hoping to drive it to Flint in a caravan with my club so it needs to be able to run faster than 50 mph.

I recently put a rebuilt 47 Roadmaster engine in my car. I was going to rebuilt the original engine but it had a crack in the block. The engine was rebuilt by a professional mechanic who is a member of my local Buick club (Buick Owners of Maryland). The engine runs very well and is smooth and powerful. The problem is if I drive on an interstate highway at 60 or 65 mph it starts to run very hot quickly and it will boil and start blowing out coolant. If I drive at slower speeds under 45 or 50 it runs right at 180 degrees. It has been cleaned out inside the water jackets, new waterpump, and the radiator was cleaned by a radiator shop. I checked the radiator and the part number on the upper tank is 3113847 which is the corect number. It is supposed to be a 3" thick core on the Roadmaster series. I measured the bottom tank and it is only 2 1/2" thick. My friend has a 41 Roadmaster radiator and it measures 3" thick. I am not sure what is going on here. I need help figuring this out.

My Buick club (Buick Owners of Maryland) had a tech session about two years ago. We had a soda blasting demonstration and I think this is the best way to remove the paint from a car. It won't damage the sheet metal and even the chrome, stainless and glass. I am about to have the paint soda blasted on my 40 Roadmaster.

Dave, That is a beautiful 57 Roadmaster. The 57 Buicks have always been my favorite Buick of the 50's. I hope to get one someday.

Bill why not post your modification type questions on the BCA-Perf/Mod Tech forum? These guys are more knowledgable on these questions.