dperras

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About dperras

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  1. If you've seen the new Buick television commercials & have the same question...take 5 mins and see a brief montage that chronicles the designer's history in the industry and impact on the Buick brand. Go to www.buick.com and under "Buick News" click on Harley Earl. Well done. The new Buick tv campaign is cool, I think. Pretty daring from an advertising perspective, as I doubt it targets a mainstream audience. Interested me enough to find out more, though. What do y'all think?
  2. There was an academic text out in 1991 that had a case study (10-15 pgs) on the Reatta, titled "Advanced Marketing Strategy", by Urban and Starr (MIT), I thik the publisher was Prentice-Hall but you could probably get reprints from the MIT University Press, or a college library might have a copy of the book. I had a copy once but can't seem to find it. <P>IMHO, if you do some searches on this board and you'll find more poingant insight than you'd get in the case study...though it was a good primer.<P>Are you doing this for a marketing class? <P>Also, Motor Trend did a review and then an editorial on why the car was discontinued.
  3. '86 Riviera T-type. Not ashamed to admit it either. First year of the touch-screen, 2 years prior to the Reatta. Hard-core Riv fans hated those years. I think those were the pre-Reattas. Sorry guys didn't know any better back then. Hey it was the 80's.
  4. Brenda...so sorry to hear of your recent snafu, but glad you are OK.<P>For your next car...too bad Volvo doesn't offer a special "impact package" on the 960...with supplemental air bags, roll bar, cow-catcher, etc.<P>If cost were not a factor I'd defintely see you in a 500SL. But I'm surprised no one has yet recommended that you get a nice, American CORVETTE!
  5. My 91 seems to be dripping water out of the exhaust. I know this happens due to condensation and is not uncommon, but mine seems to REALLY be dripping. For example, I'll start it and let it run for 2-3 mins, then drive it for a couple of miles, and it will STILL be dripping. It's been pretty warm here 65-75 as well. <P>Could this be due to something that regulates the air/fuel mixture (e.g., O2 sensor), or something else I might check?<P>Thanks guys.
  6. I've been in Hilton Head, SC for the last week and have spotted THREE Reattas; one on the island, one on the way to Savannah, and one in Charlston. Of course my car is back in Boston and I'm currently "captain" of an absurdly large 2001 Lincoln Town Car. What amazes me is how much nicer my 91 Reatta is...who (besides Tony Soprano) would drop 40K for one of these tanks!!!<P>Dalton
  7. kenny--<P>Ditto on Tom's post...particularly re the ICM or the Crank Sensor. My 91 had EXACTLY the same symptoms at 85K miles two months ago. If I had to do it all over again, I'd replace the Crank Sensor straight away...only $68. I say ONLY $68 since you may encounter some big bills for diagnosis.<BR>Hope this helps...let us know.<P>Dalton<P>PS--Search the forum and you'll find this kind of advice, which I consolidtated & printed out for my mechanic:<P>Okay guys here?s my problem: car stalls for no reason. Going along and the engine just dies. First thought it was bad gas?put in drygas and injector cleaner; did not solve problem. Might be related to heat?if I?m cruising on the highway it?s fine but I slow down on backroads and the engine just dies. Need to pull over and wait a bit (maybe it cools off), then it starts up again after a few cranks. Last time this happened though, it wouldn?t restart. Left me stranded on the side of the highway. Put in a brand new battery?it ran OK for about an hour then died the same way as before. So, I don?t think it is the battery. While it was running, I disconnected the battery & car still ran fine, so that tells me it?s not the alternator, right? Seems to be related to the ignition system. Any thoughts?<P><BR> First, start simple: check your plugs and wires. Then move onto looking at the ICM and the coil pack. Also could be clogged injector or fuel filter.<P> I have had the exact same problem---was a bad ICM. Once the car gets hot, it starts sputtering & eventually stalls. It also hesitates when I step on the gas at lights. The insulator that protects the electronics was all bubbled from the heat. When the sensor had a garden hose run over it to keep it cool, the problem vanished. Remove the coil pack and inspect the condition of the ICM it should be hard epoxy and all the same color. If not it could of over heated.<P> The ICM or Ignition Control Module is directly below coil pack at the top front of the engine, on the right side. The comment about checking the electronic potting material in the ICM is a good one. Just remove the six torx screws from the coil pack and lift it off the module. You cannot lift it very far as it is wired to the module but you will be able to see the top of the module. If it shows signs of overheating as described, get a new one. I've seen prices from $125.00-$200.00 depending on the source. <P> I have the same problem?does anyone have any tips/hints on changing out the ignition module? I removed the torx bolts and saw a number of small bubbles in the epoxy and it was gummy in places. I hope to keep the old coil pack. The service manual wasn't much help; only showed the removal of the three bolts connecting it to the engine. Unless I'm missing something, it seems pretty straightforward from there (just removing the wire connections and putting the new ICM and its wires under the old coil pack) Did I also read the new ones from NAPA were better? REPLY:---Yes it is quite simple, just note the wire connections. The gummy epoxy is very hard to clean up after. The NAPA unit is a little thicker and may hold up better to the high temps, time will tell. I have replaced 2 ICM's on my 90 Riviera & Reatta.<P> Check the wires?Problem spark plug wires will glow in the dark especially when a mist of water is sprayed on them. To locate the exact location of wire leakage: run a grounded wand (a long screwdriver attached to a grounded wire will do) along the spark plug wires. I still suspect your coil pack though. They are easy to check. Remove each wire, one at a time, from the coil tower with the ignition "OFF". Restart the engine with each removed wire. The coil pack produces a voltage so high that you will notice a distinctive spark jumping from the tower to the closest screw. No exceptions! No spark =bad coil. The ignition system, coil pack and module, do not set any codes when they go bad, they operate independantly from the ECM. Start with the basics, plugs and wires. Just pulling the plugs will tell you if there is a problem confined to a single cylinder. <P> I also had a similar problem, it would start and run fine until it warmed up, and then it would just die. Nearly killed me one day. After replacing the fuel pump, filter, ignition module and coil pack, it turned out to be the crank sensor. This definitely sounds like it could be a crank sensor. When it gets too hot and is cracked or worn it will disrupts the spark delivery. <BR>
  8. Does anyone know the answer for the 90/91? I had the same problem (a dime fell in, now it doesn't work). I did pull all the smaller fuses and all seemed fine. The larger ones that look like a 1x1-inch black box..I don't know how to determine if those are blown.<P>
  9. I had this problem last year...it happened once (enough to be disconcerting) and then didn't happen again until about a week ago. See post:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000818.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000818.html</A> <P>This past time I got out of the car and noticed that the turning light (if that's what it's called...not the yellow blinker in front but the white light that stays on/illuminates to the side while the blinker flashes) was stuck "on" even though the blinker was no longer on. Perhaps further evidence of a bad turn signal?
  10. If you guys are intersted in celebrity-owned cars, you may be interested in an ad from this week's Boston Globe:<P>1969 Oldsmobile, only 13K miles. Once owned by Ted Kennedy. Slight water damage; needs new front bumper and a lot of TLC. Seaweed-color interior. Collection of empty Scotch bottles in trunk. Location: Edgartown, MA.
  11. Yep Natasha it's out there...this one's got all the lore of the Loch Ness Monster. I've seen it too a while ago...see my post:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001520.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001520.html</A> <P>You mean the owner removed the flourescent lights? That was my favorite part!!!
  12. dperras

    Disappointed 8-(

    Brenda, I'm always on the road in MA...perhaps if you slow down to the point where other cars on the road aren't just a blurr on your way to altering the time/space relationship, you'd see more Reattas.<P>Ha ha--kidding. There seem to be fewer in New England..maybe the rust factor. I lived in Texas and Reattas seemed to be everywhere...<P>--Dalton<P>
  13. Don't have an answer but have an additonal, related question: are the sections that sit in the center console interchangable betweent the 88/89 and 90/91 models? I think the 88/89 layout is much nicer with the translucent green lettering lit from behind. The 90/91 has a red strip that moves behind a clear plastic with the words "Park", etc. in white letters sloppily lithographed on the bottom. Cheezy. In fact I don't know why they changed it at all...maybe that's some GM guys job that would have been cut if they don't change things just for the sake of changing. Anyway, if the two types are interchangable I'm going to try to the older one for my 91. Yea I know that's picky.
  14. Ah yes, the "smalles nut"..crucial to the drivetrain. Can't be without one of those. Right up there with the kiniffilin pin and the flux capacitor.
  15. I had an 86 Riviera T-type back in the day and it had the "true" 16-way power seats (with power headrests). The center section of the seats was reversible; it was leather with suede trim on one side, and velor on the other. It was secured in on the top under the headrest and at the front part of the seat bottom where the extendible thigh portion met the seat body, by ~1 foot velcro strips. I don't know how you managed to yank out the lumbar air hose...are you sure you have the reversible seats?!?!?