The coil in this car probably has steel terminals that are prone to corrode. I had this problem with my Olds. I cleaned the terminals and gave them a coat of no-ox. The difference was amazing. Coils manufactured later were equipped with brass or copper terminals that eliminater the corrosion.
I agree that it is a 1930 Olds. The radiator shell is Olds. Olds used headlight stancions only in 1929 & 1930. The visor has no crease indicating a 1930. The headlight tie bar is not origional. It should have Oldsmobile in the center oval.
I found an assortment of small compression and expansion springs at Lowes. The assortment contained over one hundred springs costing under $5.00. I found two that would work on the "d" sector of my olds.
I used black stove pipe on my '17 Olds. I rolled the three pieces necessary for this type of muffler. The concentric rings on the ends will help you determine the diameter for the pieces need. I used pop rivits to fasten after rolling to form two inside pipes and the outer skin. Put the rivited side next to the floor board. Out of sight out of mind. I replaced the long bolt with a piece of threaded rod. The inner pipe needs the holes away from the input to the muffler and the second pipe has its holes near the input. This causes the gasses to travel the longest distance inside the muffler. The home made muffler works great. I hope I didn't break any patent laws.
All, Thanks for all the tips. I will cut some scrap 4x4 shortly. I just returned from the NAOC meet. I saw the bullet hole in my friend's trailer and his '23 Olds. He was headed to the Hagerstown meet. Later,
Use Lab-Metal to fill pits before you powdercoat. Sand flush similar to bondo and powdercoat. Lab-Metal is electro conductive and rated above 400 degrees needed to set the powder. Eastwood sells Lab-Metal.