Jan Arnett

Wood wheel or wire. I have a 1930 series 40 touring that I am going to part out.

Daryl: You need to remove the CANSPAM from the front of my email like this Jarnett@kforce.com. You can still join the Dodge Club as there are members living in Australia. If I can get the supplier list scanned I will email it to you. Have a nice day Jan

If it is a 22 engine it should have priming cups to pour gas into to prime the engine. Have a nice day.

See if you can get a piece of dry ice and hold it onto the plug. Cut a piece of 2x4 the height of the plug on which you can lay the dry ice against the plug. As the plug cools it will shrink which should allow you to remove the plug. Hope this helps.

If you are member of the Dodge club there is a complete list of vendors in the back of the magazine. Have a nice day.

Now the Model T's are a whole different animal to get started and the first question is what years are the T's so we can determine if they have starters. Using a crank to start a car is a very different experience. Have a nice day <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Tool boxes were an accessory and in many sizes. The tools came in a roll. Tool boxes are readily available at most swap meets. A list of tools and pictures is in the Dodge handbook. Step plates were an accessory and could be solid or have rubber inserts. They are availiable from several reproduction sources. The solid ones could be brass or aluminum and were usually plated for 1924. There were several styles so you need to measure your running board so you know how wide you want the step plate. Have a nice day. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Graphite impregnated string packing which is avaliable at plumbing supply houses and some lowes. It is used around faucet stems.

People used to talk about kicking the tire on a Model T to get them to start and usually what happened was the spark lever moved a little which caused the plug to fire.

One reason that you should give serious consideration prior to going to shell bearings is the life of the bearing. These old engines do not have a very sophisticated oiling system. One thing that babbet does is allow particals to embede in the material which keeps the material from scratching the journal surface. To properly run an engine with shell bearings you need a good oil and filtration system to make it last. Have a nice day.

I agree with what has been said in the earlier posts. Get the car out and drive it around the block. I have driven a car around several blocks by filling up the vac tank and then driving it. I recommend that you disconnect the line from the gas tank first and plug it at the vac tank to eliminate any vac leaks. Electric fuel pumps that are diaphrahm will all gas to be pulled through them when they are not running. If it is a vane type pump it will not allow gas through so you have a fifty/fifty chance of it working. Send me your email address and I will send you rebuild instructions for the vac tank. Have a good day <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Ron: Nice looking coupe. I am sure you are aware that the fuel pump is not original and the car should have a vac. tank. If you continue to run a fuel pump you will have to determine how the fuel pump was hooked up. I would go back to original and put a vac tank on it. Have a nice day <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Ron: That fan belt that you have is actually the way they used to put together universal belts and you can still buy belts that way with metal clips. I might have the fan you need and I will check the garage tonight.

Mark: What are you putting the plugs in?

It looks like one on my 23 Moon. Just make sure you mount the handle turned around.

I have vac tanks on four early cars (Star, Moon, Dodge) and they all work well when taken care of. Don't shy away from them but vac wipers are another thing.

Here is a shot of the head s of the Boss bolt and on the right is a hub bolt.

Here are pictures of a model t hub bolt, dodge hub bolt, dodge rim bolt and the dodge boss bolt. As you can see they are all different in head, thread and length.

just remember that experience is just a culmination of mistakes. You can now say "been there done that" Keep up the good work. Jan

Dave: I don't know whether you have done it or not but you should follow the link for the Durant site and post your need there. The casting you speak of was originally pot metal which fell apart. There are some modern replacements on some tow motors but I am not familar with which one you need. The is also a gentleman in the Durant club who is milling them from solid aluminum. Do you belong to the Durant club as ads are free to members in the newspaper. Have a nice day. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I would go with a Grant Cycle car which was manufactured locally. It was a cycle car, and you never see cycle cars at any shows. I bought the remains of one forty years ago and never got to remove it from the junk yard before it was crushed. Maybe we should change the thread tittle to early cars I wished I owned. Have a nice day

There is a complete windshield on ebay, I think

I will send you a picture so you will know what you are looking for.

I don't see a picture attached. Is this a lugged rim or plain?

Dave: The bolts you are looking for are called boss bolts. They are not your standard bolt but have a larger head (that is not a washer under the head) and they are fluted. I am looking for a set for my 1923 Screenside.