Jan Arnett

Jfranklin was trying to tell you something about the market. When you look at the value of a car you consider a lot of factors. If it is a Classic it usually is worth more then a car with a high production run or a car built for the masses, usually not always. The comment about the Model T refers to the fact that more Model Ts were built and there are more still avaliable. A lot of Dodge touring cars were built and they are still avaliable for a reasonable price $4500 to $15000. What seperates the cars are the shape they are in, what the new owners wants the car for and how much work the new owner can do. Several items in your description concern me. A cracked block may mean a blown radiator or broken water pump. If you have to find a block and have some one rebuild it it will cost around $1000 dollars or more and then include a radiator. What shape is the top in because replacing it could add another $1000 to the cost (there are no dodge kits), an interior another $1000 and a paint job up to $2500. Tires and tubes another $400. If you can do the work yourself then it will cost less. If you can post pictures then we might be able to get you closer to the value but it sounds like a %3500 to $5500 car without more informatio about the car and what you plan on doing with it (restore it or just drive it) .

Thank you. I will try those settings.

I am looking for the toe in setting for a 1923 Moon or the settings for an early 1920 car with disk wheels.

I would like to be kept uptodate on the auction also. Where is Ohio will it be? Thanks

brass is too soft. Go with SS.

You are going to have to grind the run out and check both sides, then seal it with a two part epoxy primer, use a glaze to fill the holes, then use a 2K primer and then paint it. It is a lot of trouble but it is the only way. You can use a self etching primer instead of two part epoxy but the newest way is use the two part. You can also use a rust converter which is what corless or extend is touted for but you are not repaiting the problem only masking it or you can go with POR15 which does the same thing. Hope this helps. Jan

Mark: When you say straignted what do you mean. Are the rims out of round or are the side bent. I have had very good success with wheel that are out of round by cutting a round circle our of 3/4 inch plywood with the circunfrence the size of your wheel. I then mount the closed rim on the wood circle. This will allow you to see what sides are high and what is low. Take some bar clamps and blocks of wood that will fit inside the rim and slowly bring the high side in. if the rim is way out of round you may have to use the bar clamps first to get the approximate shape before you mount on the circle. If it is the cross section profile cut a piece of steel with the correct profile and force it the entire length of the rim to obtain the correct profile. before you go to all of ths trouble try installing the rim of various wheels. It may fit on one wheel better then another or it may be the wheel which is out of round. Have a good weekend

I agree do not use the old gas and make sure you dispose of it properly. The fumes will make you sick. I keep an old lawnmower tank around with a shut off valve on it and about two feet of hose which I connect to the gas line where it goes into the fuel pump. I put a tire valve stem on the cap and I can presurezie it if I need to. Make sure you disconnect the oil pressure gage to make sure you have oil coming out of it. You do not want to spin a bearing due to lack of oil pressure. You can back fill the oil pump by using the another lawnmower fuel tank with a valve stem arraingement and connecting it where the oil pressure gage connects and then force oil into the engine which will also prime the pump. Hope this helps.

I am not familar with that model but most cars have a brake adjustment that you shoudl try and back off. The reason the towing didn't work is your differential allowed the other side to turn without putting any load on the other wheel. See if you can back off the brake drum first and then try it again. If all else fails take a piece of steel and drill holes to fit the lug bolts. Intall the nuts and use it as a lever to rotate the wheel.

Use a drymel tool to v it out. If the crack was formed due to freezing gently tap the crack back together.

the valve is a metal to metal seal. Disassable it and use a little valve grinding compound to eat it. Make sure the valve parts are very clean before seating it and after you are through make sure you clean it of any valve compound.

Dave: I support you 100%. Detergent oil does not clean an engine only holds the particles in suspension. I would probably go with a straight 40 wt and skip the multiple wts unless you live in Alaska.

Put the car in neutral and then rock it. You should be able to free up the rear drum without freeing up the engine. As long as you have it in neutral and the one wheel will turn you can even drag it with your tractor. Get some penetrating oil with a straw and swuirt it from the back between the drum and shoe. Unless you have a locked up axle bearing it should free up. Get a bottle of frabreeze and use it on your interior. They also make a product call urine away which you might try. Lots of luck

renovators supply but it will cost you.

I find that automatic transmission fluid works better then marval oil and I would put in about a cup if the cyc. will take it. The ones that are at the top of the stroke will take less. While you are waiting to free it up drain the pan and put stoppard solvent or kerosane in it to free up the sludge. After it sits for a week drain it and blow air in your oil pressure gage hole to make sure that the oil pump filter is not fully clogged. Fill your points so it will be easier to start. When you do get it freeded up leave the plugs out and turn the engine over slowly to make sure eveerthing is loose and the bearings are not stuck or that the valve train is not hung up. Above all take more pictures. have fun

I had to form my own for my 23 so I believe you will have the same problem with a 24. since I have a Model t and Model A I was able to check they they are not the same.

I believe you mean top bows. Do you have the top irons or do you need them also. The will give you the measurements.

If I remember the master link has very small brass cotter pins that hold the link together. They are very hard to find, got mine in an old hardware store and easty to drop.

McMaster Carr has a catalog which is about 4 inches thick. They do have a website http://www.mcmaster.com/ but the best way to find something is to call them. Their staff is very helpful. The main problem with using oil on a water pump is that it has to lubricate but still not break down in water. There used to be a product called steam oil that was used on locomotives and I am sure there is a modern subsitution for it. Get on the HCCA forum and ask the steam guys what they use. Hope this helps.

If your dodge manual says put oil in it then you have a dot oiler. I was not aware that Dodge ever used that style oiler on a water pump. If your fitting looks like a pyramide with the ball on top then it is an oiler. The dot oiler is also used in the rear of the starter/geneerator unit. So you will understand where the advice is coming from the 1923 Dodge Book of information for dodge brothers motor vehicles says "Keep the water pump shaft bushings well lubricated. Fill the grease nipples with Dodge Brothers Motor car cup grease every 500 miles". the lubrication schedule also says to use grease on the water pump. I hope we didn't lead you astray. By the way you fittings are abaliable from McMasters Carr. Lots of luck.

You do not have an oiler. You do have a grease fitting and the little ball allows you to put grease in and not have it come out. It is an early version of the zerk fitting with has two ears on it which allows you to push the gun on and twist. It should also have a cover on the fitting to keep dirt and grit out. You should have the same fittings on your chassis. You need to get the proper grease gun and grease all the fittings on your car but use different grease for the different purposes (waterproof grease for the pump, chassis grease for the chassis). If you have a owners manual it will identify all the fitting locations and show you a picture of the gun and how to use it. There are two types of oilers. The top hat oiler was used on Model T's and earlier cars and has a lid you lift off. The steam oilers have a clear glass cyc which you put oil in and it drips down into the hole. Never put grease where you have an oiler and never put oil where you have a greas fitting. I hope this helps.

Your side curtains also go under the seat.

Bob: Most contential engines used the same water pump. My Star, Moon and Jordan all have the same pump. Send me your email and I can forward an article written for the Durant Club which discuss rebuilding a waterpump.

Mike: I will check the garage this weekend as I have several tool boxes. Jan

Mike: Both of those items are accessory items and can be purchased at flea markets and on ebay. On ebay look under Model T Tool boxes as they were all accessories. The step plates are being reporduced or avaliable on ebay. They can be solid one piece cast or have a rubber insert.