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Jan Arnett

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Everything posted by Jan Arnett

  1. I have three cars with Vacuum tanks on them and they all work once you have a good vac and with no leaks. The biggest problem I have found is the gasket on the intak manifold. If it is bad or the manifold warped it will never work but it will work when set up correctly. Have a nice Christmas.
  2. If you are not worried about the paint you can use a torch and burn them out. A burr on a flexible shaft will remove a lot of wood. Are you sure you have removed all the little nails?
  3. If I am understanding the question. 15/16 had straps which came from the fron of the top down to the windshield frame nuts. There is a figure eight bracket which fit under the nut and the strap hooks to it. Have a nice day.
  4. I still have a 1933 Ply. Coupe which I built in 1962 with a Chrysler Hemi Engine. When I bought the coupe it was a shell with no frame or interior. It had sat in a creek and the rockers were gone. I chopped it, sectioned it and channeled up over a Model A frame. I learned to build an engine, do metal work, paint and all the rest of things you learn. Everything on the car came from a junk yard or field and I learned a lot. I have built model T speedsters and a Model A speedster out of left overs. I would never taken a restorable car and roded it but there are bodies or frames which a non restorable and I will build a speedster out of them. You can buy everything new to build a rod and I have nothing against that. I have a fully restored 1916 T, 1923 Moon under restoration, 1924 Star under restoration and a 1923 Dodge. I would not rod any of them. Have a nice day.
  5. Can you do it. Yes. I know of five ways to heat a 1920 car. The simpliest is to use the brick or bricket method. Then there are heaters which used a liquid fuel which I don't recommend. Also mentioned is the style which fits over the exhaust pipe and has a register in the floor. A style not mentioned is a unit that fits over the exhaust manifold and you have a pipe leading from it through the firewall with a door to allow the heat in. I have one like this on my 1924 Star. It works by forced air from the fan. The more modern style can be used as mentioned. I put one on a 1923 Dodge. The procedure has been mentioned earlier. What I did was take exhause pipe the size of of the radiator inlet and outlets. I used a southwind heater that mounts under the dash and the heater inlets determined the size of hose. I then cut heater tube outlets of a juked car of the proper size and brazed these onto the exhaust pipe making "T". I put a bleed valve in the heater hose to blead the air. I changed out the heater motor on the southwest heater to a 12 volt moter from JC Whitney. Hope this helps
  6. There used to be a company that was producing a kit for 4 wheel brakes. I put a crosley on a t a long time ago. Worked well.
  7. I would go for a 1915/16 roadster. The last year for brass radiators and brass trim but you get electric head lights. It was the last of the older style body. Drawbacks: It has crank start unless you change it, nondemountable rims unless you change them. You can drive the back roads all day and have a blast with the top down. Who cares if you only can go 35/40 miles an hour it is plenty fast. Get a set of side curtain and it will keep 50% of the rain off. Buy a T for fun.
  8. I am looking for a source of Waukesha distributor housing number 1112405J30. Thanks for your help Jan
  9. I am trying to find what the auto-lite igb 4010a distributor fits. It has a steel body instead of pot metal. Thanks for your help Jan
  10. Larry: You need to fill out your profile. Here are some of your answers. The holes you speak of are for the top rests and there are many styles. I believe the Dodge used and expanding bolt on theirs and there would be wood inside the body beltline where the bolt fits through. The floor boards and running boards are covered with battleship linoulem which is still avalaible. Romac has it as well as several other suppliers. The edging originaly was a zinc materiaql but is usually replaced with an aluminum edge. I use cabinet edgeing avaliable at lowes. I don't know of any coil that will fit into the original holder but you can use a 12 volt external vw coil. The floor boards have holes in them for carriage bolts to hold them down. Send me an email address and I can supply you with pictures.
  11. Regarding adapters. You can make them from pipe bushing which you rethread the inside to take a 18 MM plug. I did them for my Model T and they work well if you are having trouble finding the plug. Jan
  12. When I built my 23 I planned on installing a cut out with a multiple tone whistle. The cut out I had fit a 2 inch pipe so that is what I selected for the entire system. Works fine. Jan
  13. Mike: I am not sure what he means that the disks are worn. Locks have tumblers which have little springs and slugs which engage the notches in the key. If yu have no notchs the springs and notchs are probably gone. If you have a good switch a locksmith can rekey it and put the correct springs and slugs back in. It is easy to take the switch apart and see what is required. Hope this helps
  14. Rick: Nice looking. Mike there is a trunk on ebay that the gentleman says fits a early dodge and is the style I would expect. It is thinner then the trunk Rick picked out. The trunk is the easy part with the rack being the hard part. Have a nice day and I do have to picture to post of various trunks I have including a running board trunk.
  15. Mike: Finding a trunk on a Dodge is very rare for several reasons. If you put a trunk on the read you either mount it behind the spare or you mount the spares in side mounts. Mounting the trunk behind the rear spare gives you a very long look which I feel does not look normal. If you decide to mount the spares in the fenders you will need to make welled fenders and fabricate the hardware. A model A trunk rack is not the same width as a 24 Dodge but you could modify one to fit your car. If you check Model A pictures you can probably find trunk mount racks to get an idea as to how they will look. If you do decide to mount a trunk look for a tall slim one as opposed to the short squat ones. Have a nice day.
  16. I have a 1920 wicker picnic basket which I have mounted on my running board and in it is a 1920 first aid kit and all the accessories.
  17. I mounted the old style clear glass filter bowl unit where it goes into the Vac tank and it works fine and is easy to drain. You will get water and grit in the unit so it is nice to have. Lots of luck
  18. I have found that water leaks usualy stem from either a bad head gasket, warped head or block or a crack. The first thing I would do before disassembly is to put some block stop leak and see what happens. Gm Makes a good product. Before you put the engine back together did you check to see if the head or block were warped. I assume you used a new head gasket but was it new or old stock. I find that new manufactured gaskets leak more then NOS. Jan
  19. Take a flashlight and look into the hole where the crank fits and should see the pin.
  20. With the oil screen out you can insert a high intensive flash light and put it down the oil filler and you should be able to see some of the inside of the oil pan. Taking the oil pan off is always the best way to go and safest and it is not hard to do. Romar sells pan gaskets. Hope this helps. Jan
  21. Brian: The first thing you should do is get a manual. They are avlaible on ebay or Romar has reprints. At the bottem of the pan on the drivers side is the oil line. It runs from the left side of the pan to the front of the engine. When you remove the oil line from the bottem of the pan you can then slide the oil screen out. If you have debrie in the spark plug hole it could be from mice pushing past the valves but it probably is just carbon. Take a shop vac and put a small piece of tubing on the suction side and put it into the spark plug holes. This should suck out the crap. Then squirt some oil or marvel oil in the spark plug holes and turn it over by hand and see if anything blows out. Check your exhaust system to make sure mice have not made a nest in it as it can start a fire. Hope this helps
  22. bryan: There are a lot of Dodge members in Cal and I am sutre one of them can help you get the engine started. Here is a list of the steps I follow in getting a car running. First drain the oil and put a couple of gallons of Kerosean in the crank case to drain out the sludge. The Dodge has a screen in the crank case which should be removed and cleaned. Fill the crank case and turn you attention to the ignition. File the points and make sure the cap is clean and the terminals are without corrosion. Pull the plugs and clean then put a little oil in the cyc. and turn the engine over with the plugs out to lubricate the cyc walls. Put the plugs back in. You car has a vac. tank and not a fuel pump. The vac tank is has a filler on top which can be used to prime the tank. Fill it with fresh gas and if the carb is not gummed up you should be able to start the engine. Hope this helps
  23. Dan: I once had the same plug up line on a early Olds. I took the inside of a speedometer cable and chucked it in my electric drill and then ran it on a slow speed. It took a couple minutes but I ended up drilling through the plug and it ran fine after that. You might try it before you drop the tank.
  24. My approach is to buy anyone I find at a swap meet. They are usually real cheap and you can afford to throw them away if they don't work.
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