old-tank

I would substitute a 264 for the 322 before considering the LS.

Works on a 55 century... others may be different.

Chunks of silver on my display. miles...125K insert switch...don't know Going to put it back together so I can move it around. Researching options: rebuild, replacement engine, cam bearing replacement. Last time I needed a small job like cam bearing replacement all of the machine shops insisted on complete disassembly and tanking of the block.

What you are sreing is chunks and flakes of Babbitt material that probably came from one or more of the cam bearings so more disassembly and fixing is required.

Float sticking? Float level? Float valve?

If it does that when the engine is hot it's probably due to percolation of this disgusting volatile fuel we have nowadays.

The capacitor can be mounted externally. That way you don't need a cute little round one with a pig-tail. And if there is failure it is easy to replace...also useful for testing purposes.

You should know how to "hot-wire" it by now.

Pertronix rant

Here is a start until you get a service manual.

As a test disconnect the pedal rod boot. On some if it seals "too good", the pedal will not return.

The tread looks like the Michelin X tires from the mid 1970's...great tires These are 50 year old rollers...still intact.

This is what you get when you have broken springs, seat padding that is turning to powder and a fat ass that sits on the edge of the seat. This one was previously repaired using fiberglass and even screen wire material. Repair was made using plastic from an oil bottle and using panel repair JB weld, some Bondo and plastic paint. The silver bead was not repaired since this is not a show car anymore and it weakens the seat material when you take it apart and replaced. This seat skirt is specific to small body 55 Buicks with four-way power seats and is made of unobtainium and if you do find one it's in just as bad shape.

So you want to push a brick through the air at 90 mph and get good gas mileage. Your carburetor will be well into the power circuit and you will get about 5 to 8 miles per gallon with any gear set. I've done that many times. Sustained driving at 90 mph with any gear set will burn valves and cause valve seat recession. I have done that many times. The cooling system on that car will not keep up at any speed over 65 mph. I've done that and proven that many times. Disc brakes and a heavier sway bar is a good start but you still have slow ratio steering and a big steering wheel. To accomplish your goal you should set your body on an Art Morrison chassis and go from there.

How fast do you want to go?

Fuel pressure is easy to test. Check that there are no shorts inside the distributor is the breaker plate rotates.

That 264 engine in your Special will happily spin those 3.9 gears all day long at 70 mph with short bursts up to 90 mph. Driving faster, you will drive past the capabilities of the brakes and suspension/steering. The 264 is a short stroke, small bore engine, unlike the straight eights that had gobs of low speed torque. Right now it is fun to drive with crisp throttle response...you will lose that.

The backing plates will need to be changed which involves pulling the axles shafts out. This gives you a chance to change the rear axle seals and inspect your gears.

Castro 20w50...I thought you knew that 😁

Checking bearing clearances is planned unless I find something drastically wrong with the oil pump. When I had the transmission out for a new seals I checked the rear main bearings. Plastigauge showed no wear and the thrust was okay too. It is still hot here 79 to 99 so the teardown will wait.

Probably perfect for Las Vegas.

Old bias tires are fine as long as they look good and are not flat spotted, but those L78-15 Coker Commanders are horrid tires even when new. You will curse every revolution.

Or putting it on backwards.

I would be greatly surprised if they did not fit and if they don't then you can send me a nasty gram. 😮

That should not be a problem since the centers on wire wheels is larger than steel wheels making them lug-centric vs hub-centric on the steel wheels. Hint: cut the heads off a couple of lug nuts and cut slots in the ends to make it easier to line up and mount the wires.